COPYRIGHT

Collins

an imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers

1 London Bridge Street

London SE1 9GF

www.harpercollins.co.uk

First published in paperback 1998; previously published

in 1994 as Rose Elliot’s Vegetarian Fast Food.

Text © Rose Elliot 1994, 1998

Photographs © David Armstrong 1994

All rights reserved

Editor: Jane Middleton

Text designer: Joan Curtis

Photographer: Dave Armstrong

Home Economist: Lyn Rutherford

Stylist: Róisín Nield

Illustrator: Lucinda Rogers

Indexer: Susan Bosanko

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Publishing Director: Denise Bates

Senior Managing Editor: Angela Newton

Editorial Assistant: Lisa John

Rose Elliot asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

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With book sales of three million, Rose Elliot is Britain’s bestselling vegetarian cookery anchor. She has earned the praise of vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike for the originality and imaginativeness of her recipes.

Her first book, Simply Delicious, was written in response to the many requests for recipes she received from visitors to the retreat centre run by her parents, where she then cooked. The book was widely praised and, since then, Rose has written many bestsellers. Vegetarian Christmas, Vegan Feasts, The Bean Book and Low Fat, Low Sugar are published in paperback by Thorsons.

Rose Elliot frequently contributes to national magazines, gives cookery demonstrations and broadcasts on radio and television. She lives with her husband, Robert, in Hampshire. Rose has always had a great interest in astrology and has practised this alongside her career as a cookery writer. With Robert she runs a computer-based astrological service which provides high quality personality profiles, forecasts and compatability charts. More details can be obtained from: Rose Elliot Horoscopes, PO Box 16, Eastleigh, Hampshire SO50 5YP.

CONTENTS

COVER

TITLE PAGE

COPYRIGHT

STORECUPBOARD

BREAD

Introduction

Crostini & Bruschetta

Quick Pizzas

Snacks on Toast

Open Sandwiches & Pan Bagnat

Pitta Pockets

Tortillas & Poppadums

Croissants, Rolls & Sweet Ideas

EGGS, CHEESE & DAIRY FOODS

Introduction

Omelettes

Crèpes

Cheese Salads

Fried, Melted & Grilled Cheese

Puddings with Cheese, Cream & Yogurt

PASTA

Introduction

Tomato Sauces

Light Pasta Dishes

Cheese & Cream Sauces

PULSES, GRAINS & NUTS

Introduction

Beans & Lentils

Rice

Bulgur, Couscous & Polenta

Nuts

VEGETABLES

Introduction

Soups & Top-of-the-Stove Dishes

Gratins & Grills

Potato Wedges

Spiced Vegetable Dishes

Fritters & Fried Vegetables

Stir-Fries

Main-Course Salads

FRUIT

Introduction

Fruit Salads & Savoury Fruit Dishes

Cold Puddings

Hot Puddings

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

THE STORECUPBOARD

Most of the recipes in this book are based on a combination of fresh ingredients and ingredients that keep well in a storecuboard, such as pasta, rice and spices. A well-stocked storecupboard saves time; after the initial stocking-up it’s just a matter of replenishing it when required. You don’t have to shop every day to make quick vegetarian meals: fresh vegetables and dairy produce keep very well in the fridge; herbs in jugs of water or growing in pots in a light place; and bread, if you want some in reserve, in the freezer. These are the ingredients I find most useful to have in stock, and many of the recipes in this book rely on them.

DRY GOODS

I like to keep in several packets of pasta in different shapes and a supply of split red lentils, which cook more quickly than other pulses and don’t need soaking. Various types of rice are also indispensable: brown basmati is the only wholegrain rice that cooks in under 30 minutes, and white basmati takes even less time. Bulgur wheat, couscous, instant polenta, chick pea (gram) flour, cornflour and dried breadcrumbs are worth having for occasional use, and flour (both white and wholemeal) and baking powder are storecupboard basics. Wheatmeal and amaretti biscuits keep fairly well and make a good base for various puddings. Dried fruits are useful for both sweet and savoury dishes, as are nuts, seeds, desiccated coconut, coconut milk powder and creamed coconut. Try to keep several types of nuts and seeds in stock, such as walnuts, hazelnuts, cashews, pine nuts, sunflower seeds and sesame seeds. If possible, store nuts in the fridge or freezer to prevent them from going rancid. In any case, buy them in small quantities.

CANNED AND FROZEN FOOD

Certain canned ingredients are invaluable for making fast food – green lentils, chick peas, different types of beans, canned sweetcorn (without added sugar), artichoke hearts and tomatoes in juice. Canned whole tomatoes are usually of better quality than the chopped ones and it’s easy to break them up quickly with a spoon once they’re in the saucepan. Canned chestnuts and unsweetened chestnut purée come in handy, whether it’s to make a hearty winter stew or whip up a luxurious quick pudding. I like the vacuum-packed canned whole chestnuts that are now available. It’s also possible to buy frozen peeled chestnuts. Other frozen foods I like to keep in stock are sweetcorn, petit pois and leaf spinach. Sticks of frozen double or whipping cream are useful, too, for when you need just a small quantity.

FLAVOURING INGREDIENTS

Flavouring ingredients are doubly important for fast food, because you need to add interest and intensity of taste without a lengthy cooking period. It’s worth spending a little time and money, therefore, building up a collection of spices and herbs, sweet and savoury flavourings, and good oils and vinegars. At the most basic level, you need good salt – I like flaky Maldon sea salt which you can crush in your fingers – and a grinder for black peppercorns. Other basics are light olive oil for shallow-frying and a good-quality virgin olive oil for salad dressings. For stir-frying and occasional deep-frying I use groundnut oil because it is the most stable at high temperatures; also dark sesame oil for adding flavour to stir-fries and oriental dishes. Vinegars to keep in stock are red wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar and light, sweet brown rice vinegar, all of which have their own individual character. Tabasco sauce and soy sauce pep up food instantly – choose soy sauce that is naturally matured and contains only soya beans and salt. Then there’s mustard, preferably smooth Dijon as well as wholegrain Meaux mustard; good bought mayonnaise such as Hellman’s; and jars of capers, black olive pâté (the type made only with black olives and olive oil is best), sun-dried tomatoes, pesto sauce and black olives (my favourites are the Greek Kalamata or the little Niçois olives – all of these are best kept in the fridge.

For sweet flavourings, I use both clear and thick honey and stem ginger preserved in syrup; I also find ginger preserve, a kind of ginger jam, useful. Rose and orange flower waters are versatile flavourings, and perhaps even better are liqueurs such as Cointreau or Amaretto, and eau de vie. My favourite is eau de vie de poire William – horribly expensive but divine in a delicate pear dessert.

The spices I find most useful are cinnamon (in sticks and ground) cloves, cardamom, cayenne, chilli powder, whole and ground coriander, whole and ground cumin, ground turmeric, paprika, dried red chillies, and whole nutmegs for grating when needed. Mustard seeds and curry powder are good for occasional use. As far as herbs are concerned, thyme, sage, rosemary and oregano seem to survive the drying process well, and bay is actually better and more concentrated in flavour when dried. Being able to buy fresh herbs easily has made a huge difference to the fast cook’s repertoire, and I find they keep well in their little pots or in jars of water – fresh mint, basil, parsley, dill, coriander, chives, chervil, tarragon and parsley (particularly flat-leaf) will liven up your cooking immensely. Lemon grass, green chillies and fresh ginger root are also widely available now, and are best kept in the fridge.

FRESH PRODUCE

Basic dairy produce such as eggs – always free range – milk, cream and yogurt should, of course, be kept in the fridge, along with soft and hard cheeses, including a block of fresh Parmesan for grating as required. Fresh vegetables such as tomatoes, salad leaves, carrots and cabbage keep well in the fridge, too. Other basic standbys are onions, garlic, potatoes, oranges and lemons, which I keep in a cool, dark cupboard, and bread, which goes into a bread crock, with a back-up supply in the freezer.

EQUIPMENT

The right equipment makes all the difference to the ease with which you can cook fast food. A little time spent removing clutter, re-thinking your needs, and streamlining and reorganizing kitchen surfaces and cupboards can save hours of your time over the weeks and months.

It’s essential to invest in efficient kitchen tools. You don’t need a lot of fancy equipment: the most important thing is a really good, sharp knife, and for that you do get what you pay for. Personally I like a classic Sabatier knife with a medium-length (11cm/4¹/₂ inch) blade. A good, solid chopping board is essential, too, the bigger the better. The other small tools I find indispensable are a swivel potato peeler with a long handle that is really comfortable to hold, and a citrus zester, which is a curiously useful gadget. A garlic press is more bother than it is worth, in my opinion – you can do the job much more quickly and effectively with a knife and a board.

A food processor isn’t essential, and many of the recipes in this book can be made without one, but it does open up many more possibilities – lovely creamy soups, quick pâtés and dips, for instance. As with so many things, if you’re buying one it pays to get a larger version than you think you’ll need; go for something simple in design which doesn’t try to do too many jobs. Try to make a space for it on your work surface so that it’s always there at the ready. An electric hand whisk is also a surprisingly useful and labour-saving piece of equipment, and fairly inexpensive to buy. For years I put off buying one, and when eventually I did I couldn’t believe how useful it was and wondered why I hadn’t bought one earlier.

A microwave oven isn’t essential by any means, and apart from a microwave version of risotto none of the recipes in this book depend on one. I find a pressure cooker more useful than a microwave because I love making soups and it cooks them very quickly. Some people are wary of pressure cookers because of all their hissing, but once you know what you are doing it can be invaluable.

Finally, a large saucepan with a steamer on top is helpful if you’re cooking with limited hob space, because you can have one item cooking in the pan and a vegetable or something else steaming in the top. I have a stainless-steel steamer that I use a lot in this way.

BREAD

There’s a huge range of delicious breads around now, and it’s fun to try different types. In this section I’ve included some of my favourites – not just breads and rolls but also more unusual products such as poppadums and tortillas, as well as croissants, bagels, panettone and brioche. Plenty of other interesting baked goods are worth experimenting with, and they all make an ideal basis for fast food. For a long time bread was unfairly dismissed as 'stodge', but now it is recognized as a healthy food which contributes valuable minerals and vitamins, as well as protein and energy, to our diet.

CROSTINI & BRUSCHETTA

These Italian toasts are really very similar: crostini are delicate rounds of light, crisp bread whereas bruschetta is made from coarse country bread and rubbed with garlic to flavour it. They can be served plain to accompany soup, salads or dips, or topped with all kinds of delicious things to make canapés, quick snacks or light meals. If you are making a meal of them they are good served with some salad. You can use either a small or large baguette for crostini, depending on how big you want the rounds to be, and since one baguette yields about 50 slices, you only need a small piece to make a snack or meal for two people.

BASIC RECIPE

4 slices from a large baguette or 8 slices from a small one, cut 6mm / ¹/₄ inch thick, for crostini

2 slices from a country-style loaf for bruschetta

olive oil

1 garlic clove, peeled and cut in half, for bruschetta

Lay the slices of bread on a grill pan and grill until they are dried out and slightly golden on one side, then turn them over and grill the second side.

For crostini, brush the slices lightly with olive oil if you wish; I prefer them without. For bruschetta, rub the cut clove of garlic lightly over the surface and brush or drizzle with some olive oil. Serve plain, or with any of the toppings suggested below.

SERVES 2

TOPPINGS

All these toppings make enough for 8 small or 4 large crostini, or 2 bruschetta. Serve the crostini or bruschetta as soon as possible after adding the toppings.

— 1 —
CHERRY TOMATOES, FETA AND THYME

6–8 cherry tomatoes crostini or bruschetta (see above)

50g / 2oz feta cheese

sprigs of thyme

freshly ground black pepper

Slice the cherry tomatoes and arrange them over the crostini or bruschetta then crumble the feta cheese over them.

Snip a little fresh thyme over that and add a grinding of black pepper.

— 2 —
BLACK OLIVE PATE, RED PEPPER AND CAPERS

1 red pepper

black olive pâté

crostini or bruschetta (see above)

2–3 tsp capers

a few leaves of flat-leaf parsley

Cut the pepper into quarters then grill it for about 10 minutes or until the skin has blistered and charred in places.

Cool slightly, then remove the skin and seeds and slice or chop the flesh.

Spread black olive pâté over the crostini or bruschetta then lop with the red pepper, capers and a few leaves of flat-leaf parsley.

— 3 —
AUBERGINE AND MINT

1 medium aubergine

olive oil

4 sprigs of mint

balsamic vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

Slice the aubergine into rounds about 3mm/¹/₈ inch thick and lay them on the grill pan.

Brush with olive oil on both sides then grill on high for 5–10 minutes, until golden brown and tender.

Tear the mint sprigs and mix with the aubergine. Add a few drops of balsamic vinegar and salt and pepper to taste then divide between the crostini or bruschetta.

— 4 —
LENTILS WITH CRANBERRIES

This Christmassy variation can be made very quickly with canned lentils.

1 small onion, peeled and chopped

1 tbls olive oil

1 × 425g / 15oz can of lentils

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

2 tbls cranberry sauce, preferably containing whole cranberries

sprigs of flat-leaf parsley

Fry the onion in the olive oil for 7–10 minutes, until soft and lightly browned.

Drain the lentils and add to the onion, mashing them a bit so that they hold together.

Spread this mixture on top of the crostini or bruschetta, piling it up well.

Dot the cranberry sauce over the top and decorate with sprigs of flat-leaf parsley.

— 5 —
BLUE CHEESE WITH GRAPES, PINE NUTS AND CHICORY

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

a few leaves of chicory

125g 14oz blue cheese

6 black grapes

a few pine nuts

Cover the crostini or bruschetta with chicory leaves, breaking or shredding them as necessary.

Thinly slice the blue cheese and arrange on top.

Halve and pip the grapes and lay these on top, then scatter over a few pine nuts.

— 6 —
GOAT’S CHEESE, ROCKET AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO

125g / 4oz soft white goat’s cheese

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

8 sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained

several rocket leaves

freshly ground black pepper

Spread the soft white goat’s cheese thickly on the crostini or bruschetta.

Chop the sun-dried tomatoes and arrange them on top of the goat’s cheese, together with a few leaves of rocket, then grind some black pepper coarsely over the top.

— 7 —
HUMMUS, OLIVE AND PAPRIKA

You can buy very good hummus at most of the big supermarkets and it makes an excellent topping for crostini.

125g / 4oz hummus

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

paprika pepper

olive oil

8 black olives

a few sprigs of flat-leaf parsley

Spread the hummus thickly on top of the crostini or bruschetta. Sprinkle some paprika pepper over the top, then drizzle a little olive oil on top of that.

Decorate with the black olives and a sprig or two of flat-leaf parsley.

— 8 —
MUSHROOM PATE

225g / 8oz mushrooms

25g / 1 oz butter

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 eggs or 4 quail’s eggs

salt and freshly ground black pepper

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

black olive pâté

Wash and dry the mushrooms then chop them finely (use a food processor for this if you have one). Melt the butter in a saucepan, put in the mushrooms and garlic and cook them over a fairly high heat until the mushrooms are tender and any liquid they produce has evaporated – this may take 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, boil the eggs for 10 minutes or the quail’s eggs for 2¹/₂ minutes. Shell them and slice them fairly thinly, or cut the quail’s eggs in half. Season with salt and pepper.

Season the mushroom mixture then either leave it to cool slightly or spread it on the crostini or bruschetta while still hot. Top with the egg slices and a little black olive pâté.

— 9 —
PLUM TOMATO, MOZZARELLA AND BASIL

Plum tomatoes usually have flavour and nice firm texture, but you could use other well – flavoured tomatoes.

4 fresh plum tomatoes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

olive oil

50g / 2oz Mozzarella cheese (packed in water)

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

8 fresh basil leaves

Slice the tomatoes into rounds, put them on a plate and sprinkle them with salt, pepper and a few drops of olive oil. Cut the Mozzarella cheese into small pieces.

Arrange the tomatoes on top of the crostini or bruschetta then du! the cheese over the tomatoes.

Tear the basil leaves over the top of the tomatoes and cheese and grind over some more black pepper to taste.

— 10 —
GOLDY GREENY SPREAD

A strange and interesting recipe, adapted from New Food For All Palates by Sally and Lucian Berg (Gollancz, 1967). Frozen beans are fine for this.

1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced

2 tbls olive oil

125g / 4oz green beans

1 egg, hard-boiled

salt and freshly ground black pepper

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

Fry the onion in the oil until golden brown and crisp (this is very important for the flavour).

Cook the green beans in a little boiling water for 3–4 minutes, until tender, then drain.

Shell and roughly chop the hard-boiled egg. Put the beans, egg and half the onion into a food processor and whizz to a purée. Season to taste.

Spread on top of the crostini or bruschetta and top with the remaining onion.

— 11 —
PECORINO AND PEAR ON WATERCRESS

125g / 4oz soft pecorino cheese

crostini or bruschetta (see here)

a little milk (optional)

a few watercress leaves

1 ripe dessert pear

50g / 2oz hard pecorino or Parmesan cheese, grated

freshly ground black pepper

Spread the soft pecorino cheese over the crostini or bruschetta (mix the cheese with a little milk first if necessary).

Press the watercress into the cheese. Peel, core and thinly slice the pear and arrange on top.

Sprinkle generously with the grated cheese and grind some pepper over, then serve straight away or flash under a hot grill to melt the cheese.

A selection of Crostini, topped with Mushroom Pâté, Plum Tomato, Mozzarella and Basil, and Goldy Greeny Spread

QUICK PIZZAS

It’s unrealistic to try and make a pizza from scratch in 30 minutes but you can make a good quick tomato sauce, spread it over a read-made base, add a topping and flash it under a hot grill. Although you can buy pizza bases, I like to use a range of different breads, such as granary, ciabatta and muffins. The bases and toppings in the following recipes can be mixed and matched, if you prefer, to suit whatever ingredients you have to hand.

To make a quick lettuce salad, cut 1 or 2 little gem lettuces across into thick slices; wash and drain in a colander, then put into a bowl, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, some sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and toss lightly.

TOMATO SAUCE

1 tbls olive oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 × 400g / 14oz can tomatoes

8 sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion then cover and cook gently for 10 minutes, until tender but not brown.

Stir the garlic into the onion, cook for 1–2 minutes longer, then stir in the tomatoes, together with their juice, breaking them up with a wooden spoon. Chop the sun-dried tomatoes roughly, if you are using them, and add these to the pan too.

Let the mixture simmer away for about 10–15 minutes until the liquid has evaporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

MAKES ENOUGH FOR 2 MUFFINS, OR 1 GRANARY OR CIABATTA PIZZA

MUSHROOM PIZZA

225g / 8oz button mushrooms

2 tbls olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 muffins

125g / 4oz Cheddar or other cheese

tomato sauce (see above)

Wash and slice the mushrooms then fry them in the olive oil for 1–2 minutes until they are tender. Season with salt and pepper.

Cut the muffins in half and toast on both sides under the grill. Thinly slice the cheese.

Heat the tomato sauce then spread it over the muffins. Top with the mushrooms and cheese and heat under the grill for a few minutes, until the pizzas are piping hot and the cheese is golden brown and bubbling.

SERVES 2

RED AND YELLOW PEPPER PIZZA

1 red pepper

1 yellow pepper

1 oval or round granary loaf (400g / 14oz)

olive oil

tomato sauce (see above)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

50g 12oz Parmesan cheese

a few fresh basil leaves

Cut the peppers into quarters, put them cut-side down on a grill pan and grill for about 10 minutes or until the skin has blistered and charred in places. Remove from the grill and, when cool enough to handle, peel off the skin, remove the seeds and stem, and slice the peppers.

Cut the loaf horizontally in half, scoop out a little of the crumb, then brush the inside with olive oil and toast it under the grill. Toast both sides if you want a crisp pizza base.

Heat the tomato sauce then spread this evenly over the bread and top with the peppers, mixing up the colours. Season the peppers lightly, then grate the cheese and sprinkle it over the pizzas.

Heat the pizzas under the grill for a few minutes until they are piping hot and the cheese is melted and lightly browned. Tear a little basil over the top and serve.

SERVES 2–4

CIABATTA PIZZA WITH ARTICHOKES

The nicest artichoke hearts to use for this are the ones that you can buy preserved in oil. Any that are left over keep well in the fridge. Alternatively, drained canned artichoke hearts make a good substitute.

1 red onion, peeled and sliced

olive oil

1 ciabatta loaf

tomato sauce (see opposite)

125g / 4oz Mozzarella cheese

125g / 4oz artichoke hearts, sliced

Fry the onion in 1 tablespoon of olive oil until softened, about 5–7 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the loaf horizontally in half, brush each cut surface with olive oil and toast it under the grill. Toast both sides if you want a crisp pizza base.

Heat the tomato sauce then spread it evenly over the bread. Slice the cheese and arrange it on top of the sauce, then top with the artichoke hearts and fried onion.

Heat the pizzas under the grill for a few minutes until they are piping hot and the cheese is melted and lightly browned.

SERVES 2–4

GORGONZOLA AND WALNUT PIZZA

1 oval or round granary loaf (400g / 14oz)

olive oil

tomato sauce (see opposite)

125g / 4oz Gorgonzola cheese

50g / 2oz walnut pieces

Cut the granary loaf horizontally in half, scoop out a little of the crumb, then brush the inside with olive oil and and toast it under the grill. Toast both sides if you want a crisp pizza base.

Heat the tomato sauce then spread this evenly over the bread. Slice the cheese and arrange it on top of the sauce, then top with the walnuts.

Heat the pizzas under the grill for a few minutes until they are piping hot and the cheese is melted and lightly browned.

SERVES 2–4

PESTO PIZZA

Bottled pesto is readily available nowadays, and some Italian delicatessens and large supermarkets stock fresh pesto sauce. If you have time, you might like to make your own (see here).

1 ciabatta loaf

olive oil

tomato sauce (see opposite)

75g / 3oz Parmesan cheese

2–4 tbls pesto sauce

a few black olives (optional)

Cut the loaf horizontally in half, brush each cut surface with olive oil and toast it under the grill. Toast both sides if you want a crisp pizza base.

Heat the tomato sauce then spread it over the bread. Slice the cheese into thin slivers and arrange on top of the sauce, then drizzle the pesto over everything and add the olives if you’re using these.

Heat the pizzas under the grill for a few minutes until they are piping hot and the cheese is melted and lightly browned.

SERVES 2–4

TWO-CHEESE PIZZA

2 muffins

125g / 4oz Mozzarella cheese

50g / 2oz Parmesan cheese

12 black olives

tomato sauce (see here)

Cut the muffins in half and toast them on both sides under the grill.

Meanwhile, think slice the cheeses and halve and stone the olives.

Heat the tomato sauce and spread it over the muffins, then top with the slices of cheese and the olives.

Heat the pizzas under the grill for a few minutes until they are piping hot and the cheese is golden brown and bubbling.

SERVES 2

SWEETCORN AND CHERRY TOMATO PIZZA

2 muffins

125g/4oz Cheddar cheese

6 cherry tomatoes

tomato sauce (see here)

50g / 2oz canned or frozen sweetcorn kernels

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut the muffins in half and toast them on both sides under the grill.

Meanwhile, grate the cheese and slice the cherry tomatoes.

Heat the tomato sauce and spread it evenly over the muffins, then top with the grated cheese, sweetcorn and cherry tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat the pizzas under the grill for a few minutes until they are piping hot and the cheese is golden brown and bubbling.

SERVES 2

RED PEPPER, AUBERGINE AND GOAT’S CHEESE PIZZA

Light rolls or baps, or pieces of French stick or ciabatta bread, split in half, also make good bases for these toppings.

1 small red pepper

1 medium aubergine

olive oil

2 muffins

tomato sauce (see here)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

50g / 2oz goat’s cheese log

Cut the pepper into quarters then put it cut-side down on a grill pan. Cut the aubergine into slices about 3mm/¹/₈ inch thick and lay these on the grill pan too. Brush the aubergine slices on both sides with olive oil then grill on high for 5–10 minutes, until the skin on the pepper is blistered and charred in places and the aubergine is golden brown and tender. Remove from the grill but leave it on. Cover the pepper with a damp cloth.

Cut the muffins in half and toast them on both sides under the grill.

Heat the tomato sauce then spread it over the muffins and top with the aubergine slices. Remove the loose skin and seeds from the pepper, cut it into long, thin strips and arrange on top of the aubergine. Season with salt and pepper.

Break off small pieces of goat’s cheese and dot them over the top of the pizzas. Grind a little black pepper coarsely over the goat’s cheese then heat the pizzas under the grill for a few minutes until they are piping hot.

SERVES 2

Two-Cheese Pizza, Sweetcorn and Cherry Tomato Pizza, Red Pepper, Aubergine and Goat’s Cheese Pizza

SNACKS ON TOAST

TOASTED CHEESE

This simple version of cheese on toast is quick and easy lo make and you can vary it by using different types of bread and cheese, substituting beer, wine or cider for the milk, and adding extra ingredients such as tomatoes, onion, herbs, mushrooms, chutney or pickle – whatever takes your fancy.

1–2 slices of bread

75–125g / 3–4oz Cheddar cheese, grated

1–2 tbls milk

freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the grill and toast the bread on one side.

Mix the cheese with the milk to make a paste then season with freshly ground black pepper.

Spread the cheese mixture on the untoasted side of the bread, grill until puffed up and golden brown then serve at once.

SERVES 1

VARIATIONS

1 WITH ASPARAGUS

This is an extremely nice variation if you are making toasted cheese for more than one person and want something that is extra special. Allow about 3–4 asparagus spears per person, trim them then cut them into 2.5cm/1 inch lengths and cook in boiling water for 2–4 minutes, until just tender. Drain and serve heaped on top of the toasted

2 WITH CIDER AND APPLES

Use cider instead of the milk. Peel and core a small, mellow eating apple such as Cox’s, then cut it into thin rings or slices and arrange it on the toast. Cover with the cheese mixture and grill until the cheese is puffed up and golden brown and the apple is tender.

3 WITH OLIVES

I like this best made with feta cheese, which you can crumble rather than grate. Add 6–8 black or green olives, or a mixture of both, to the cheese.

4 WITH ONION AND MUSTARD

Mix the cheese with beer instead of milk and add ¹/₂–1 teaspoon of made mustard and 1 finely chopped small onion.

5 WITH CHILLI

De-seed and finely chop 1 small green chilli and add it to the grated cheese.

MOZZARELLA IN CARROZZA

Mozzarella in Carrazza means ‘Mazzarella in a carriage’, a poetic and apt description.

Use the best Mozzarclla you can find – certainly one packed in water – for this delicious mixture of hot moiling cheese and crisp fried bread.

125g / 4oz Mozzarella cheese

4 slices of bread, crusts removed

2 eggs

olive oil

Drain and slice the cheese and sandwich it between the slices of bread, pressing them firmly together.

Lightly beat the eggs, then strain them into a shallow dish. Put the sandwiches in the egg and leave them for a few minutes to soak it up, turning them over once.

Heat a little olive oil in a frying pan and fry the sandwiches on both sides until they are golden brown and crisp. Drain them quickly on kitchen paper and serve at once.

SERVES 2

BUTTERY SCRAMBLED EGGS ON TOAST

2 slices of bread

butter

4 eggs

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Toast the bread, botter it and keep it warm.

Lightly beat the eggs and season with salt and pepper.

Melt a knob of butter in a saucepan. When it sizzles, add the eggs and cook over a low heat for a few minutes, stirring.

Just before the eggs set, move the pan from the heat and, to make the scrambled eggs extra delicious, stir in a few slivers of butter. The eggs will continue to cook in the heat of the pan.

Pile the scrambled eggs on to the toast and serve at once on warmed plates.

SERVES 2

VARIATIONS

1 WITH FRESH HERBS

Add 1–2 tablespoons of chopped fresh herbs at the end of the cooking time, along with the extra butter.

2 PIPERADE

Piperade takes longer to cook than plain scrambled eggs but it is nice when you want something a bit more substantial.

Melt 25g/1oz butter in a pan then add 1 large onion, peeled and chopped, and 1 green pepper, de-seeded and chopped. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, until soft but not browned, then add 450g/1lb tomatoes, skinned and chopped, and 1 clove of garlic, crushed. Cook gently, uncovered, for about 10 minutes, until the vegetables are soft but not mushy. Meanwhile, toast and butter 4 slices of granary or wholewheat bread, cut it into lingers and keep it warm. Lightly beat 4 eggs then pour them into the pan with the vegetables and stir gently until they begin to set. Remove from the heat (the eggs will continue to cook in the heat of the pan), season and serve immediately with the toast fingers.

CLUB SANDWICH

A good way of using up the other half of the avocado is to make the guacamole; mash the avocado with 1 skinned, chopped tomato and some finely chopped chilli; then add plenty of chopped fresh coriander and season to taste.

3 slices of wholewheat bread

butter

2 lettuce leaves

1 small tomato, sliced

mayonnaise or mustard

¹/₂ small avocado

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 cocktail sticks

4 stuffed olives

Toast the bread, butter one piece and arrange the lettuce, tomato and a little mayonnaise or mustard on top.

Cover with another piece of toast, buttered on both sides. Peel, stone and slice the avocado, arrange on top of the toast and season with salt and pepper.

Butter the third piece of toast and place, butter-side down, on top of the avocado. Press down on the sandwich, cut it into quarters then spear each quarter with a cocktail stick and decorate with a stuffed olive.

SERVES 1

CAMEMBERT TOAST WITH APRICOT JAM

I love the combination of Camembert cheese and something sweet. If you find the jam too sweet, however, mango chutney is also very good.

1 slice of wholewheat bread

2 portions of Camembert cheese

2–3 tsp good-quality apricot jam

2–3 tsp chopped hazelnuts

Heat the grill and toast the bread on both sides.

Mash the Camembert roughly on the toast then put some dollops of apricot jam on top of that.

Grill until the cheese has melted then sprinkle with the nuts and grill again until lightly browned.

SERVES 1

OPEN SANDWICHES & PAN BAGNAT

RADICCHIO AND CREAM CHEESE

75g / 3oz cream cheese or curd cheese

2 slices of dark rye bread

a few radicchio leaves

2 dill-pickled cucumbers, sliced

sprigs of fresh dill (optional)

Spread about half of the cream or curd cheese on the bread, then press the radicchio leaves on top of that.

Spoon the remaining cheese on top, then arrange slices of dill-pickled cucumber on top of that and finish with a sprig of fresh dill, if you like.

SERVES 2

BRIE AND RED ONION

mayonnaise

2 slices of wholewheat bread

2–4 little gem lettuce leaves

50g / 2oz Brie

3–4 slices of red onion

a few walnuts

Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on the bread then arrange the lettuce on top, pressing it down into the mayonnaise to make it stick.

Slice the Brie thinly then arrange it on top of the lettuce with the red onion slices and sprinkle with a few walnuts.

SERVES 2

EGG AND OLIVE

2 slices of white poppyseed bread

mayonnaise

4 frisée lettuce leaves

1 hard-boiled egg

6 black olives

paprika pepper

Spread the bread with a thin layer of mayonnaise then arrange the lettuce on top.

Chop the hard-boiled egg into chunks and mix with a little mayonnaise to moisten. Divide this mixture between the bread slices and garnish with the olives and a little paprika.

SERVES 2

PAN BAGNAT

You can vary the filling for pan bagnat according to your taste and what is available: try adding slices of cheese, hummus with some olives, or any of the fillings for pitta pockets (see here). The main thing is to be generous with the filling.

1 long French slick

450g / 1lb tomatoes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 lettuce

225g / 8oz Mozzarella cheese

1 large avocado

lemon juice

fresh basil leaves

Cut the French stick into quarters. Slice each piece open and scoop out most of the crumb.

Slice the tomatoes and sprinkle with salt. Wash the lettuce and spin or pat dry; slice the Mozzarella cheese; stone, peel and slice the avocado and sprinkle the slices with lemon juice, salt and pepper.

Fill the bread with layers of the ingredients, adding lorn basil leaves and seasoning to each layer. If you are eating the sandwiches later, wrap them tightly and keep in the fridge until needed.

SERVES 4

(top) Pan Bagnat and (bottom) Open Sandwiches

PITTA POCKETS

Pitta breads make very convenient containers for all kinds of delicious ingredients that would be too moist or bulky to put in a sandwich. Salads and stir-fries can be piled into warmed pitta pockets; grilled vegetables, too, freshly cooked and still sizzling; and simple mixtures of beans, vegetables, cheese and hummus. Here is a selection of fillings.

SPICED CHICK PEAS

A tomato, sliced into quarters or eighths, is nice added to this for a change.

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 tbls olive oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 × 425g / 15oz can chick peas, drained

2 pitta breads

4–6 lettuce leaves

4 tbls thick Greek yogurt, or a mixture of yogurt and good-quality mayonnaise

salt and freshly ground black pepper

paprika pepper

Fry the onion in the oil, with a lid on the pan, for 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cumin seeds, cover again and cook for a further 2–3 minutes until the onion is tender.

Add the chick peas to the onion and cook for 4–5 minutes, until heated through and perhaps lightly browned in places.

Warm the pitta breads under the grill then cut them lengthwise in half. Gently open up each half and put in the lettuce, tearing it as necessary, then spoon in the chick pea mixture. Season the yogurt or yogurt and mayonnaise, spoon on top of the chick peas and sprinkle with a little paprika pepper. Serve at once.

SERVES 2

AUBERGINE WITH PESTO

You can sprinkle the aubergine with salt, leave it for 30 minutes, then rinse it if you wish; this isn’t usually necessary as a precaution against bitterness, but it can reduce the amount of oil the aubergine absorbs.

1 large aubergine

olive oil

2 pitta breads

1–2 tbls good-quality bought pesto sauce, or home-made (see here)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the grill. Cut the aubergine lengthwise into slices about 3mm/¹/₈ inch thick and lay these on a grill pan. Brush the slices on both sides with olive oil then grill on high for 5–10 minutes, turning them over as necessary, until golden brown and tender.

Warm the pitta breads under the grill, then cut them lengthwise in half and gently open up each half. Mix the aubergine slices with pesto to taste, season, then spoon them into the pitta breads and serve at once.

SERVES 2

GREEK SALAD

4–6 lettuce leaves

small piece of cucumber

2 small tomatoes

4 spring onions

a few black olives, stoned

2 tbls olive oil

2 tsp wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

125g / 4oz feta cheese

chopped fresh mint or oregano

2 pitta breads

Wash the salad ingredients then tear the lettuce, dice the cucumber, slice the tomatoes, chop the spring onions and put them into a bowl. Add the olives, oil, vinegar and a grinding of pepper.

Cut the feta into cubes and mix it with the other ingredients, then add the fresh mint or oregano and a little salt if necessary.

Warm the pitta breads through under the grill, then cut them lengthwise in half, gently open up each half and fill with the feta mixture.

SERVES 2

COUSCOUS, TOMATO AND MINT

You could use bulgur wheat instead of couscous for a change: prepare it in the same way.

125g / 4oz couscous

50g / 2oz raisins (optional)

2 spring onions

4 tomatoes

2 pitta breads

juice of 1 lemon

4 tbls chopped fresh mint

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the couscous and the raisins, if you are using them, into a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave on one side for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, trim and chop the spring onions, chop the tomatoes and warm the pitta breads under the grill.

Drain the couscous and mix with the spring onions, tomatoes, lemon juice, mint and salt and pepper to taste.

Split the pitta breads lengthwise in half, gently open each half and fill with the couscous mixture.

SERVES 2

RED BEAN AND SWEETCORN

2 tbls olive oil

1 small onion, peeled and chopped

1 small green pepper, chopped

1 × 200g / 7oz can tomatoes

1 × 200g / 7oz can sweetcorn, drained

1 × 225g / 8oz can red kidney beans, drained

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 pitta breads

Heat the oil in a pan, put in the onion and pepper, cover and cook gently for 10 minutes, or until they are getting tender.

Mash in the tomatoes with their juice, cover and cook for a further 10 minutes, then add the sweetcorn and kidney beans. Cook gently for a few more minutes until hot. Season with salt and pepper.

Warm the pitta breads under the grill, then cut them lengthwise in half, gently open up each half, fill with the red bean mixture and serve at once.

SERVES 2

CHEESE AND CARROT VINAIGRETTE

2 carrots (about 225g / 8oz)

125g / 4oz Cheddar cheese

4 spring onions

2 tbls olive oil

2 tsp wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 pitta breads

Scrape or peel the carrots then coarsely grate the carrots and cheese into a bowl. Trim and slice the spring onions and add them to the bowl, together with the oil, vinegar and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix well.

Warm the pitta breads under the grill, then cut them lengthwise in halt, gently open up each half, fill with the carrot mixture and serve at once.

SERVES 2

(top) Poppadums with Avocado and Curried Mayonnaise and (bottom) Pitta Pockets with (left) Cheese and Carrot Vinaigrette and (right) Red Bean and Sweetcorn

TORTILLAS & POPPADUMS

TORTILLA SALAD ROLLS

The tortillas that you can now buy make a goof fast-food snack, warmed through, filled with through, filled with tasty ingredients and then rolled up. They can be eaten immediately or topped with grated cheese and put under a hot grill to melt the cheese. The remaining tortillas will keep well in a polythene bag in the freezer.

2 tortillas

6–8 iceberg lettuce leaves

2 tomatoes

small piece of cucumber

2 spring onions

4 tbls mayonnaise, soured cream, yogurt or a mixture

hot chilli sauce such as Tabasco

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the tortillas into a Irving pan over a moderate heat, one at a time, to warm through, or heat them under the grill.

Shred the lettuce leaves and chop the tomatoes, cucumber and spring onions. Mix with the mayonnaise, soured cream or yogurt then add a dash of hot chilli sauce and some salt and pepper to taste.

Spread the salad mixture on to the warm tortillas, roll them up firmly and serve at once.

SERVES 2

POPPADUMS WITH AVOCADO AND CURRIED MAYONNAISE

2 tsp curry powder

2 tbls mayonnaise

2 tbls plain yogurt

1 tsp mango chutney

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 avocado

2 tomatoes

squeeze of lemon juice

2–3 poppadums

paprika pepper or fresh coriander

Put the curry powder into a dry saucepan and heat for 1–2 minutes until it smells aromatic. Remove from the heat and mix with the mayonnaise, yogurt, chutney and salt and pepper to taste.

Peel, stone and chop the avocado then put it in a bowl. Dice the tomatoes and add to the avocado with the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

Put the poppadums on a plate, spoon the avocado mixture on the side and trickle the curried mayonnaise over it. Finish with a sprinkling of paprika pepper or a little chopped fresh coriander.

SERVES 1

RED BEAN BURRITOS

2 onions, peeled and chopped

2 tbls olive oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 chilli, de-seeded and chopped

1 tsp cumin seeds

2 tomatoes

l × 425g / 15oz can red kidney beans, drained

2 tbls chopped fresh coriander

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tortillas

soured cream to serve

Fry the onions in the oil, with a lid on the pan, for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, chilli and cumin and cook for 1–2 minutes.

Cover the tomatoes with boiling water for a few seconds, then drain and slip off the skins. Chop and add to the pan with the kidney beans. Cook gently for 5 minutes or until heated through, mashing the beans to make a rough puree. Add the coriander and season with salt and pepper.

Warm the tortillas one at a time in a frying pan over a moderate heat, or heat them under the grill. Spread the bean mixture on the warm tortillas, roll them up and serve with soured cream.

SERVES 2

CROISSANTS, ROLLS & SWEET IDEAS

SPEEDY GARLIC BREAD

Although garlic bread is usually made in the oven, you can speed things up by using the grill instead.

Cheese and Garlic Bread makes a nice variation: simply put slivers of cheese (such as Gruyère) on the garlic bread before grilling it; or try herb bread, using 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh parsley and chives instead of, or as well as, the garlic.

¹/₂ French stick or 2 crusty rolls, white or wholewheat

2 garlic cloves, crushed

50g / 2oz butter, softened

Heat the grill. Cut the French stick on the diagonal into slices about 2.5cm/1 inch thick, or cut the rolls in half.

Mix together the garlic and butter then spread this over the cut surfaces of the bread.

Grill the bread until hot and sizzling on one side, then turn it over to heat the other side. Serve immediately, or cover with foil and keep warm.

SERVES 2

CREAMY ASPARAGUS CROISSANTS

This delicious snack for one is rather like a cheat’s version of feuilleté of asparagus in cream.

125–225g / 4–8oz asparagus spears

15g / ¹/₂ oz butter

1¹/₂ tsp cornflour

150ml / 5fl oz single cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

2 croissants

Trim the asparagus as necessary and cut it into 2.5cm/1 inch lengths. Keep the tips separate from the stems.

Cook the chopped stems in 2.5cm/1 inch of boiling water for 2 minutes, then add the tips and cook for a further 2 minutes, until they are beginning to get tender but are still crunchy. Drain.

Melt the butter in a pan and stir in the cornflour. Add the cream and stir over a moderate heat until it comes to the boil and thickens. Cook for 1–2 minutes then remove from the heat and stir in the asparagus. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Slice the croissant horizontally in half. Grill on both sides until crisp and lightly browned.

Serve the croissant halves with the asparagus, sandwiching them together with the mixture if you like, and letting the excess run on to the plate.

SERVES 2

GARLIC MUSHROOM ROLL

175g / 6oz button mushrooms

15g / ¹/₂ oz butter

1 tsp olive oil

1–2 garlic cloves, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 high, rounded, crusty roll, white or granary

Wash and roughly chop the mushrooms, then fry them in the butter and olive oil for 5 minutes or until they are tender. If they give off a lot of liquid, go on cooking them until this has evaporated; this may take as long as 10 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, heat the grill. Slice the top off the roll to make a lid; scoop out and discard most of the crumb. Warm through the roll and lid under the grill, turning it.

Spoon the mushrooms into the roll and replace the lid. Serve at once.

SERVES 1

CHUTNEY BEAN BURGER

Use whatever chutney or pickle you like in this; you could also add extras such as grated cheese, mustard, mayonnaise, sliced tomato and lettuce to make a kind of burger with everything.

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 tbls olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 × 225g / 8oz can butter beans, drained

1–2 tbls chutney or pickle

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 soft burger roll

Fry the onion in the olive oil, with a lid on the pan, for 5 minutes. Add the garlic to the pan and cook for 1–2 minutes longer.

Add the beans to the pan and cook gently for about 5 minutes, until heated through, mashing the beans to make a rough puree. Stir in the chutney or pickle and season with salt and pepper.

Heat the grill. Cut the burger roll in half and warm it through under the grill, then pile the bean mixture on one half, top with the other half, press down and serve immediately.

SERVES 1

BRIOCHE WITH VACHERIN AND APRICOT CONSERVE

An indulgent breakfast, brunch or pudding.

1 individual brioche

125g / 4oz Vacherin cheese

1–2 tbls best-quality apricot conserve

Warm the brioche in the oven or under the grill, then serve with the Vacherin cheese and apricot conserve.

SERVES 1

GINGER AND CREAM CHEESE BAGELS

125g / 4oz cream cheese, full fat or low fat

2 pieces of preserved stem ginger

6 walnut halves

a little milk (optional)

2 bagels

Put the cream cheese into a bowl. Chop the ginger and walnuts and heat into the cream cheese, adding a little milk it necessary to soften it.

Cut the bagels in half, spread with the filling

and sandwich together.

SERVES 2

BAGELS WITH CHOPPED-HERRING-WITHOUT-HERRING

This filling is a piquant and intriguing relish from New Food For All Palates by Sally and Lucian Berg. It also makes a good topping for crostini or bruschetta.

25g / 1oz white bread, crusts removed

7 tsp white wine vinegar

2 eggs, hard-boiled

40g / 1¹/₂oz mild onion

25g / 1oz green pepper

25g / 1oz peeled sharp apple

1 rounded tsp sea salt

4 tsp olive oil

white pepper

2 bagels

Tear the bread into pieces, put these into a bowl and sprinkle with the vinegar.

Shell the eggs, chop them roughly and put them into a food processor with the onion, green pepper and apple, also in rough chunks. Add the bread, salt and oil and whizz to a chunky puree. Season, adding some while pepper to taste.

Cut the bagels in half, spread the filling over them and sandwich together.

SERVES 2

PANETTONE WITH FRESH FIGS

This makes a good quick festive pudding. Other fruits such as Clementines, peeled and sliced, could be substituted for the figs, or instead of the fresh fruit you could use fruits preserved in alcohol.

6–8 fresh figs

4 slices of panettone

1 tub of thick Creek yogurt

a few flaked almonds

Wash and slice the figs, then arrange them on individual plates with a slice of panettone, a good dollop of Greek yogurt and a few flaked almonds.

SERVES 4

CINNAMON TOAST WITH HONEYED APPLES

Rather like an apple charlotte, this is a pleasant combination of crisp, sugary cinnamon toast and buttery apple slices. The recipe also works well with pears instead of apples, and white bread rather than brown. Some chilled thick yogurt or pouring cream makes a good accompaniment.

2 sweet, mellow eating apples, such as Cox’s

butter

2 tbls honey

2–4 slices of white bread

2–4 tbls demerara sugar

ground cinnamon

Peel the apples, cut them into quarters, remove the cores, then cut each quarter into thin slices.

Heat a little butter in a saucepan and add the apples and honey. Cook, uncovered, over a gentle heat, until the apple slices have softened, about 3–4 minutes, stirring gently from time to time.

Meanwhile, make the cinnamon toast: toast the bread on both sides – don’t get it too brown and crisp. Remove the crusts if you like, then butter the toast. Cover each slice evenly with demerara sugar and sprinkle with cinnamon.

Put the toast under the grill for 1–2 minutes until the sugar has melted a hit to make a crisp coating. Cut into fingers or triangles.

Spoon the apple slices on to a small plate and arrange the cinnamon toast around them.

SERVES 2

CROISSANT WITH CREAM AND BLACK CHERRY CONSERVE

Unless a croissant is superb in flavour and texture, I think that halving and grilling it is by far the nicest way to serve it – either with butter or with a sweet or savoury filling. Here, a combination of three of my favourite foods makes an indulgent occasional treat.

1 croissant

1–2 tbls black cherry conserve

1–2 tbls thick double cream, crème fraîche or soured cream

a little icing sugar (optional)

Slice the croissant in half horizontally. Grill on both sides until crisp and lightly browned.

Spread the bottom half with black cherry conserve, cover with the cream, then replace the top half of the croissant.

Sift a little icing sugar over, if you like.

SERVES 1

(left) Panettone with Fresh Figs, (top) Croissant with Cream and Black Cherry Conserve, (right) Cinnamon Toast with Honeyed Apples

EGGS, CHEESE & DAIRY FOODS

These foods are easy to turn into a quick feast, with dishes such as Tortilla, Spinach and Stilton Creêpes, Haloumi with Spiced Leeks or Chocolate Amaretti Pudding. Cheese is perfect for simple instant meals – see No-Cook Cheese Feasts for ideas – and yogurt, soft cheeses and cream form the basis of quick and easy desserts. Dairy products do contain fat, but used in moderation and balanced with vegetables, fruit and cereals they definitely have a place in a healthy, fast-food diet.

OMELETTES
SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND HERB OMELETTE

2 eggs

4 sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained

2 tbls chopped fresh herbs, such as chervil, chives and parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

15g / ¹/₂ oz butter

Break the eggs into a bowl and beat them lightly until just combined. Chop the sun-dried tomatoes and add to the eggs, together with the herbs. Season with salt and pepper.

Put a 15cm/6 inch frying pan over a medium heat. When it is hot add the butter, turn the heat up and swirl the butter around – don’t let it brown.

Pour in the eggs, tilting the pan to distribute them evenly, then, using a fork, draw the set edges towards the centre and let the liquid egg run to the edges. Repeat until the omelette is almost set.

Tilt the pan over a warmed plate, then fold the edge of the omelette over to the centre and let it fold over again on to the plate. Serve immediately.

SERVES I

VARIATIONS

1 CHEESE AND HERB

Grate 40g/l¹/₂ oz Gruyère cheese and add half to the beaten eggs instead of the tomatoes. When the omelette is almost set, sprinkle the remaining cheese over the centre.

2 FRESH TOMATO

Skin, de-seed and chop 1 large tomato, warm it through in a little butter in a small pan and season. When the omelette is almost set, spoon the tomato over the centre. You could add some slivers of spring onion, or some fresh basil or other herbs, too, if you like. Turn out the omelette and serve dusted with finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese.

SOUFFLE OMELETTE

Halfway between a soufflé and an omelette (though far quicker to cook than a soufflé) a soufflé omelette makes a pleasant change and can be served with sweet or savoury fillings.

If you are making a sweet soufflé omelette, for a flashy finish fill the omelette with your chosen mixture, fold it in half, then sift 2 tablespoons of icing sugar over the top and caramelize the sugar by laying a red-hot skewer on top for a moment or two in a criss-cross pattern.

2 eggs, separated

salt and freshly ground black pepper (for a savoury omelette)

15g / ¹/₂oz butter

Heat the grill. Put the egg yolks into a bowl, add 2 tablespoons of water, and some seasoning if you’re making a savoury omelette, and mix well.

Whisk the egg whites until they stand in stiff peaks, but don’t let them get too dry. Stir a spoonful of beaten egg white into the yolks, then gently fold in the rest with a metal spoon.

Heat a 15cm/6 inch frying pan over a moderate heat then put in the butter and tilt the pan so that the butter coats the sides. Pour the egg mixture into the pan and cook over a moderate heat for 1–2 minutes, until golden brown underneath. Put the pan under the grill for 1–2 minutes to brown the top of the omelette.

Cut across the centre of the omelette (don’t cut right through it), spoon your chosen filling (see below) over one half, then fold over the other half. Lift the omelette out of the pan and serve.

SERVES 1

SAVOURY FILLINGS

1 ASPARAGUS

Boil or steam 2–4 asparagus spears until just tender then cut them into 2.5cm/1 inch lengths.

2 PEPPER

Grill ¹/₂ red or yellow pepper, or a combination, until charred then peel off the skin and slice thinly.

3 MUSHROOM

Wash, dry and slice 50g/2oz mushrooms – any type, or a mixture – then sauté them in 15g/¹/₂ oz butter until they are tender and any liquid they produce has boiled away (this may take up to 15 minutes). Season with salt and pepper.

4 CHEESE

Mix 2 tablespoons of grated cheese with the egg yolks, then sprinkle another 2 tablespoons on top of the omelette just before you fold it. Gruyère or Parmesan, or a mixture, are good.

5 RATATOUILLE

Leftover ratatouille (see here) makes a very good filling; reheat gently, allowing 2 heaped tablespoons per omelette.

6 TRUFFLE

For a luxurious treat, put a few truffle shavings on top of the omelette before folding it.

7 PETITS POIS AND MINT

Cook 50g/2oz fresh or frozen petits pois in a little boiling water for 2 minutes Drain, add a knob of butter and 2 teaspoons of chopped fresh mint.

SWEET FILLINGS

1 FRESH FRUIT

Any sweet, soft-textured fruit is good, such as blackberries or blueberries, sliced sweet ripe mango, or sliced banana with a sprinkling of cinnamon. Or use 50g/2oz strawberries or other red berries, sliced and sprinkled with sugar and 1 tablespoon of liqueur: try Cointreau with strawberries or kirsch with cherries.

2 JAM

Melt 1 tablespoon of jam in a small pan over a gentle heat – apricot or black cherry are especially good. You could also add a dash of liqueur.

3 PRESERVED FRUIT

Use 2 tablespoons of fruits preserved in liqueur, or coarsely chopped stem ginger.

TORTILLA

This simple Spanish omelette is wonderfully tasty and filling, and like all flat omelettes it can be eaten hot, warm or cold. Any that’s left over is delicious the next day, reheated and served with a fresh tomato sauce or served hot or cold with salad.

Tortilla makes a good appetizer, cut into small squares and accompanied by a spicy dipping sauce.

900g / 2lb potatoes

1 large onion or 1 bunch of spring onions

3 tbls olive oil

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