ROSE
ELLIOT’S
New Complete
Vegetarian

Copyright

HarperCollinsPublishers 1 London Bridge Street London SE1 9GF

www.harpercollins.co.uk

First published in 2010 by Collins

Some of the recipes in this book first appeared in Fontana paperback and in Rose Elliot’s Complete Vegetarian Cookbook.

Text © Rose Elliot, 1985 and 2010 Photographs © Kate Whitaker, 2010 Vana Haggerty and Ken Lewis

Commissioning editor: Lizzy Gray

Photography: Kate Whitaker

Food and prop styling: Joss Herd and Penny Markham

Rose Elliot asserts her moral right to be identified as the author of this work.

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HarperCollinsPublishers has made every reasonable effort to ensure that any picture content and written content in this ebook has been included or removed in accordance with the contractual and technological constraints in operation at the time of publication.

Source ISBN: 9780007325610

Ebook Edition © MARCH 2012 ISBN: 9780007372003

Version: 2016-03-21

Contents

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Cook’s notes

Introduction

Soups

First courses, snacks and drinks

Sauces and relishes

Salads and salad dressings

Side dishes

Vegetables and nuts

Pulses

Pasta

Grains and rice

Flans and pies

Cheese and eggs

Puddings

Baking

Bread and yeast cookery

Keep Reading

Acknowledgements

About the Author

About the Publisher

Cook’s notes

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT OVEN TEMPERATURES Ovens need to be preheated to the specified temperature. All the temperatures in this book are based on a conventional oven. If you’re using a fan-assisted oven, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adjusting the temperature – this usually means reducing it by 20°C (65°F), gas mark 1.

Butter The type of butter is specified only where it is critical, otherwise use salted or unsalted.

Cheese More and more cheeses are vegetarian, but there are some important ones that are not as they contain rennet (an animal product). When buying cheese always check that it’s vegetarian or choose a vegetarian alternative – try pecorino instead of Parmesan, Emmental instead of Gruyère, Danish Blue (or other blue cheeses marked ‘vegetarian’) instead of Roquefort.

Eggs They are medium size unless specified otherwise. I always use free-range organic eggs. Pregnant women, the elderly or frail, and very young children need to avoid eating recipes containing raw eggs.

Stock powder, cubes and concentrate There are some good ones available. Check the label and choose one containing natural ingredients.

Soy sauce Choose the most natural type you can find; traditionally brewed, without additives such as colouring or caramel. Dark Kikkoman (with the red top) is a reliable brand that’s widely available but try shoyu and wheat-free tamari; both are available from large supermarkets and health shops.

Wine and fortified wine As with cheese, wine is often not vegetarian or vegan so check the label (or ask the wine merchant for advice) when buying. When choosing sherry, pick the ‘fino’ variety, as this is vegetarian, and with port, buy the ‘crusted’ variety, named because of the sediment or ‘crust’ that forms in the bottle.

The Vegetarian Society, the Vegan Society and VIVA! (Vegetarian International Voice for Animals) are all excellent sources for information on products and ethical issues.

www.roseelliot.com

Introduction

When I wrote my Complete Vegetarian Cookbook, back in 1985, vegetarian and vegan food was not as popular or as mainstream as it is today. Nowadays, I look around my local supermarket and there is a wealth of fabulous fresh produce available. I can enjoy ingredients from around the world and if I am cooking for someone with a dietary requirement, there are loads of alternatives to pick from. In fact, following a healthy, nutritious and varied diet has never been easier. So, I hope my New Complete Vegetarian recipe book will help you make the most of the glorious range of ingredients we can all enjoy.

In this book you’ll find hundreds of delicious, easy-to-make vegetarian and vegan recipes. Here you’ll find my classic recipes that I turn to again and again, and often get asked for, plus many new ones to enjoy. You’ll also find information on cooking and preparing vegetables, fruits, pulses and nuts, plus symbols for those recipes that are vegan v and those that can be frozen . Many dishes include variations, so if you don’t like a particular ingredient, you can often replace it with something else. In fact, I would always encourage you to try out new dishes and have fun making the recipes your own.

So, if you’re one of my dear loyal readers from the past, I hope you will love this new edition as much as you did the first one; and if this is your first encounter with my Complete Vegetarian Cookbook, it’s so good to have you here and I hope you will find it an inspiring and practical friend in the kitchen. Whether you’re an old friend or a new one, I wish you many wonderful meals and health and happiness in your life and on your vegetarian journey.

Soups

Soup is one of the most satisfying things to make and eat, and it’s so varied and adaptable. It can be hot or chilled, smooth or chunky, thick or delicately light. Truly, there is a soup for all tastes and seasons.

In this chapter you’ll find a mouth-watering variety of soups, from broths such as miso soup to thick and chunky soups like lentil with garlic and cumin. There are plenty of quick-to-make soups, plus elegant ones for entertaining. You’ll also find a recipe for vegetarian stock. While using your own stock can give a beautiful flavour, it’s also fine to use bouillon powder, concentrate or cubes. You can also get excellent results using just water; I often do this when I want the pure taste of a particular vegetable to really sing through.

Many homemade soups freeze excellently, and you’ll find the freezer symbol against those suitable for this; just remember to allow time – several hours at room temperature or overnight – for the soup to defrost.

Easy vegetable stock v

Although you can now buy very acceptable vegetarian stock powder, which I often use for speed, nothing beats a good home-made stock. It’s easy to make – 10 minutes of simple preparation followed by an hour of slow simmering and you’re done. It keeps perfectly for a week in the fridge or for 3–6 months in the freezer. This is a good basic stock but you can also jazz it up by adding a few cloves of garlic, some peppercorns and any other herbs you fancy, such as bay leaves or thyme.

MAKES ABOUT 1.2 LITRES (2 PINTS)

1 onion, roughly sliced

1 stick of celery, roughly chopped

1 large carrot, roughly chopped

1 potato, roughly chopped

a few sprigs of parsley

2.5 litres (4 pints) water

Put the vegetables and parsley into a large saucepan and add the water.

Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down, cover and leave to simmer for 40 minutes.

Strain through a sieve. Cool, then keep in the fridge or freeze in suitable-sized containers.

Tip

Toss the vegetables in 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil and roast for 20–30 minutes at 200°C (400°F) gas mark 6, before proceeding as above, for a fuller flavour.

Artichoke soup

Smooth and creamy, this slips down your throat like velvet. Jerusalem artichokes are quite easy to peel if you use a potato peeler and are fairly ruthless about cutting off the little lumps. Put them into a bowl of cold water as they’re done, to preserve their colour.

SERVES 6

25g (1oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

900g (2lb) Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut into even-sized chunks

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

275ml (10fl oz) milk

sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Melt the butter in a large saucepan and add the onion. Cover the pan and fry gently for 5–7 minutes or until fairly soft but not browned, then add the artichokes, cover the pan again and cook for a further 2–3 minutes, stirring often.

Pour in the stock or water, bring to the boil, then turn the heat down, cover and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes or until the artichokes are soft.

Blend the soup very well, and pass it through a sieve if you want it really smooth, then add the cream if you’re using it, and enough milk to make the soup the consistency you like.

Season to taste with salt, pepper and freshly grated nutmeg. Reheat, and serve with some chopped chives or parsley sprinkled on top.

VARIATION

Artichoke soup with truffle oil

Truffle oil adds a deep, earthy flavour to this beautiful soup. Make as described and season with salt and pepper, but omitting the nutmeg and herbs. Pour into warm bowls and swirl each with a good teaspoon of truffle oil.

Asparagus soup

One of my favourite summer soups, this makes a wonderful starter for a special occasion and can also be served chilled in hot weather.

SERVES 4

1 onion, chopped

1 potato (about 50z (150g)), peeled and cubed

1 tbsp olive oil

500g (1lb 2oz) asparagus, washed

about 1 litre (1¾ pints) water

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or a stock cube

4 tbsp single cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large covered saucepan, fry the onion and potato cubes in the olive oil over a gentle heat. Fry for a few minutes, stirring now and again.

Break the tips off the asparagus stems by bending them until they snap. Place the tips to one side. Cut the stems into 2cm (1 in) pieces and add to the pan, along with half the water and the vegetable bouillon. Bring to the boil, then leave to simmer gently for about 30 minutes, until the asparagus is tender.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining water in another pan and cook the asparagus tips until tender, about 7 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking water.

Purée the soup thoroughly and, for an extra-smooth texture, pour it through a sieve, back into the rinsed-out saucepan. Add the cooked asparagus tips together with their cooking water and the cream. Season well with salt and pepper.

Reheat gently before serving; don’t let it boil.

Chilled avocado soup

This beautiful pale green, silky soup is very easy to make. Use avocados that are perfectly ripe but not overly so; they’re just right when they feel slightly soft all over when you squeeze them gently in the palm of your hand. Avoid making this soup in advance; it just needs time to chill in the fridge so that it keeps its bright colour.

SERVES 6

2 large ripe avocados

1 tbsp lemon juice

850ml (1½ pints) ice-cold skimmed milk

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives, to garnish

Halve, stone and peel the avocados and cut them into rough chunks.

Put the chunks into a blender or food processor with the lemon juice and milk and blend very thoroughly until the mixture is silky smooth.

Taste and season well with salt and pepper. Chill in the fridge, with the serving bowls too, if there’s room.

To serve, check the seasoning, as chilling can dull the flavour, then ladle the soup into the bowls and scatter some bright green chopped chives on top.

Beetroot soup

One of my all-time favourite soups, this is a stunning deep ruby-red soup that looks mouth-watering with its white topping of yoghurt or soured cream. It’s wonderful hot, but I particularly like to make it from new-season beetroot in the summer and serve it chilled. I think you’ll have gathered by now that I’m rather partial to chilled soup!

SERVES 4

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large potato (about 225g (8oz)) peeled and diced

1 tbsp olive oil

450g (1lb) cooked fresh beetroot (not in vinegar), peeled and diced

1.2 litres (2 pints) stock or water

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder, stock cube or concentrate

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp lemon juice

½ tsp grated lemon rind

TO GARNISH

thick natural Greek yoghurt, soured cream or crème fraîche

coarsely ground black pepper

Fry the onion gently in the oil in a fairly large saucepan, with a lid on the pan, for about 5 minutes, being careful not to let it brown. Add the potato, stir, then cover and cook gently for about 5 minutes more.

Add the beetroot and stir in the stock or water and the bouillon powder, stock cube or concentrate.

Bring to the boil then cover and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes or until the potatoes are soft.

Blend the soup, then return it to the saucepan and flavour with salt, pepper and the lemon juice and just a touch of the grated rind. Reheat gently and serve topped with a spoonful of yoghurt, soured cream or crème fraîche and a scattering of coarsely ground black pepper.

Borsch

You could serve this soup with the little curd cheese tarts on page 272 but it’s also great accompanied by chunks of rye or wholemeal bread and goat’s cheese.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, chopped

2 large carrots, diced

2 sticks of celery, sliced

125g (4oz) cabbage, chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

1 litre (1¾ pints) water or vegetable stock

400g can chopped tomatoes

450g (1lb) cooked beetroot (not in vinegar), peeled and diced

salt and freshly ground black pepper

sugar

TO GARNISH

150ml (5fl oz) soured cream or thick natural yoghurt (optional)

chopped fresh dill or chives (optional)

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onions, carrots, celery and cabbage, stir them in the oil so they glisten, then fry over a gentle heat for about 10 minutes, with the occasional stir.

Pour in the water or vegetable stock and the tomatoes, bring to the boil, cover and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes or until all the vegetables are tender.

Add the beetroot to the soup and season well with salt, pepper and a little sugar. Bring to the boil again and simmer gently for 3–4 minutes.

Serve the borsch as it is or blend it a little. If you like, top with soured cream or yoghurt and a scattering of chopped dill or chives.

Creamy butter bean soup with croûtons

This soup has a smooth, creamy texture that is complemented perfectly by its crunchy topping of golden-brown croûtons.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) dried butter beans, soaked

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 potato, peeled and diced

2 carrots, diced

2 sticks of celery, chopped

1.2ml (2 pints) water or unsalted stock

1 bouquet garni – a couple of sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf tied together

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

a few croûtons or cubes of crispy wholemeal toast, to serve

Drain and rinse the beans.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the vegetables and sauté for 7–8 minutes without browning, then add the butter beans, water or stock and the bouquet garni. Simmer gently, half covered, for about 1½ hours or until the butter beans are tender.

Remove the herbs and blend the soup (with the cream, if using). Season well with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

Reheat gently – don’t let the soup boil – and scatter over the crunchy golden croûtons or crisp wholemeal toast cubes at the last moment.

Butter bean and tomato soup v

I love to use dried butter beans for this, though I’ve given the option of canned, as dried beans are such a joy. You can buy them for practically nothing, keep them in the cupboard until you need them, then work some kitchen alchemy just by gently soaking and boiling, to produce a meal that’s deeply satisfying and full of natural goodness. If you are cooking your own beans, use the cooking water for this soup, with some vegetable bouillon powder for extra flavour.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, chopped

225g (8oz) dried butter beans, soaked, cooked until tender and drained, or 2 x 400g can butter beans, drained and rinsed

850ml (15 pints) water or unsalted vegetable stock

1 bay leaf

2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

sugar (optional)

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onions and fry over a gentle heat for about 10 minutes, until softened, but not browned.

Add the cooked butter beans, water or stock, bay leaf and tomatoes. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes.

Taste and season with salt, pepper and a little sugar if you think it needs it.

Blend a bit with a hand blender or leave the soup as it is. Serve sprinkled with the parsley.

Roasted butternut squash soup with chilli oil v

This is so easy to make – it’s pretty much a case of ‘roast and whiz‘. The butternut squash is cooked in the oven while you leisurely fry an onion and some garlic, then all you have to do is purée it with some vegetable stock, and there’s your beautiful golden soup.

SERVES 4-6

1 butternut squash

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing

1 onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

about 1.5 litres (2½ pints) vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4–6 tsp chilli oil, to serve

Set the oven to 190°C (375°F), gas mark 5.

Cut the butternut squash in half lengthwise. You might find it easier to cut it in half widthways, then cut each of these pieces in half. It doesn’t really matter how you do it, and there’s no need to remove the seeds at this point.

Put the pieces of squash in a roasting tin, brush the cut surfaces with oil and bake for about I hour, or until the squash is soft.

While the squash is roasting, heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a gentle heat, add the onion, cover and cook gently for about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a further 2 minutes.

Scoop out the flesh of the butternut squash, discarding the seeds. Pull off and discard the skin – it will come away easily. Purée the flesh and their juices, along with the onion and garlic.

Put the purée into a pan and stir in enough vegetable stock to make a consistency that’s pleasing to you. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Gently heat through, then serve with a swirl of chilli oil on top of each bowl.

VARIATION

Roasted butternut squash with goat’s cheese toasts

Make the soup as described. While it’s heating through, make the goat’s cheese toasts. Allow half a large slice of bread per serving. Toast the bread then top the toast with mashed soft-rind goat’s cheese and brown under a hot grill. Cut each piece into small squares and put these on top of the soup just before serving.

Carrot and thyme soup v

This is a light and refreshing soup that’s almost fat-free. It’s thin and smooth, so you can sip it from a large mug as you warm your hands and eat a sandwich. If you think you might prefer it a bit thicker, start with less water; you can always add more. I like this soup so much that I often make double this amount! You really do need high-quality bouillon powder for this, both for the flavour and the extra body that it gives.

SERVES 4

1 onion, chopped

2 sticks of celery, sliced

3 carrots, sliced

1 small potato (about 125g (4 oz)), peeled and diced

1 tsp dried thyme

1.2 litres (2 pints) water

4 tsp high-quality vegetable bouillon powder

salt and freshly ground black pepper chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional), to garnish

Put the onion, celery, carrots and potato into a large saucepan with the thyme, water and vegetable bouillon and bring to the boil.

Cover and simmer for 25–30 minutes or until the vegetables are very tender.

Blend or process until very smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste (you won’t need much salt because the bouillon powder is quite salty).

Serve in mugs, or in warm bowls, with some chopped parsley on top.

VARIATION

Carrot and coriander soup v

You can buy cartons of this everywhere but it’s so easy and economical to make your own. Simply follow the main recipe but using 1 teaspoon of crushed coriander seeds instead of the thyme. Crush your own seeds with a pestle and mortar and enjoy their sweet orangey aroma, or use the ready-ground type for speed. Add a small bunch of chopped fresh coriander after blending.

Carrot and ginger soup v

Use 2–3 teaspoons of grated fresh root ginger instead of the thyme for this soup, which is warming, fragrant and uplifting, but not spicy hot.

Carrot and lemon soup v

For this refreshing soup, just add 1 teaspoon of finely grated lemon rind and 2 teaspoons of juice after cooking; taste and add a little more if you like.

Cauliflower soup with almonds

Cauliflower makes a beautiful creamy soup with a delicate flavour. Try it with the herb bread, quick and easy focaccia or hot garlic bread .

SERVES 4

15g (½oz) butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 potato (about 150g (5oz))

½ fairly small cauliflower (about 225g (8oz)), broken into florets

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch or two of freshly grated nutmeg

2 tbsp flaked almonds, toasted to garnish

Melt the butter with the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion and fry for 5–7 minutes, covered, until it is beginning to soften but not brown.

Add the potato and cauliflower to the pan and cook for a further 2–3 minutes, stirring often. Be careful not to let them brown, as this will spoil the delicate flavour.

Pour in the stock or water and add the bouillon powder, bring to the boil, cover and leave to simmer over a gentle heat for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are soft.

Blend until very smooth and velvety. Stir in the cream, if you’re using it, and season well with salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper and grated nutmeg. Reheat, serve in warm bowls, and scatter over some crunchy golden flaked almonds.

Celery soup with lovage

The flavour of lovage is often likened to that of celery. It’s more pungent and aromatic, but goes well with celery and together they make a lovely soup. In a perfect world, where the seasons are observed in cooking, this would be made with the first of the English celery and the last of the lovage from the garden – it’s a perfect soup for a crisp autumn day. If you can’t get hold of any lovage, use some finely chopped celery leaves instead.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

outside stalks from 1 head of celery (about 450g (1 lb) in total), sliced

225g (8oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into even-sized chunks

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water and 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

2 tbsp chopped fresh lovage

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry for 5–7 minutes until soft but not browned. Add the celery and potatoes and cook for a further 2–3 minutes, stirring often.

Pour in the stock or water and add the bouillon powder. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes until the vegetables are very soft.

Blend well, but stop when it’s the consistency you like. Stir in the lovage, cream (if using) and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Reheat gently before serving.

Celery and tomato soup v

This is a quick soup with a refreshing flavour and a chunky texture. If you make it in a pressure cooker it can be on the table in less than 30 minutes from start to finish.

SERVES 4

3 onions, chopped

outside stalks from 1 head of celery, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

400g can chopped tomatoes

575ml (1 pint) water or vegetable stock

salt, sugar and freshly ground black pepper

a squeeze of lemon juice

Fry the onions and celery together in the oil without browning for 5–10 minutes.

Add the garlic, tomatoes and water or stock, and simmer for a good 30 minutes or until the celery is meltingly tender.

Taste and season with salt, pepper, sugar and a squeeze of lemon juice to taste.

Chilled cherry soup

No one finds it odd to start a meal with melon and a fruit soup is simply taking this a stage further! This black cherry soup looks so delicious with its topping of soured cream or yoghurt that I don’t think you’ll have much trouble persuading people to try it. Plump, perfectly ripe, deep-red fresh cherries are best eaten exactly as they are, without any adornment, so for this soup I use frozen, stoned black cherries.

SERVES 6

450g (1lb) frozen, stoned black cherries

850ml (1½ pints) water

2 tbsp arrowroot

caster sugar, to taste

150ml (5fl oz) dry red wine

a little lemon juice (optional)

150ml (5fl oz) carton of soured cream, to garnish

Put the cherries into a saucepan with the water, bring to the boil and simmer gently until tender. This only takes a few minutes.

Mix the arrowroot with a little cold water to make a smooth paste, then stir a ladleful of the hot cherry liquid into the arrowroot mixture, mix and add it to the saucepan. Simmer for 2–3 minutes or until slightly thickened.

Remove from the heat and leave to cool, then add 40–50g of sugar to make it slightly sweet but refreshing. Chill in the fridge.

Before serving, taste and add a little more sugar if necessary or a drop or two of lemon juice to sharpen the flavour slightly. Top each bowlful with a spoonful of soured cream.

Spanish chickpea soup with garlic and mint v

1 recommend using dried rather than canned chickpeas for this Spanish soup because the flavour depends on the quality of the few ingredients: chickpeas, fresh herbs, garlic and olive oil. The oil is used both in the soup and to fry the crispy croûtons.

SERVES 4

225g (8oz) dried chickpeas (high-quality, Spanish variety if possible)

2 garlic cloves, crushed

a handful of fresh mint, stalks removed

a small handful of parsley, stalks removed

6 tbsp olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 large slices of bread, cut into cubes

Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water, then drain, place in a large saucepan, cover generously with fresh water and simmer for about 1½ hours or until really tender. The time can vary, so go on cooking them until you can crush one easily between your fingers.

Drain the chickpeas and reserve the cooking liquid. Blend or process the chickpeas with 850ml (1½ pints) of their liquid (made up with extra water if necessary), the garlic, mint, parsley and half the olive oil until very smooth.

Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and reheat gently. While this is happening, fry the bread cubes in the remaining olive oil until golden brown.

Serve the croûtons in a bowl for people to add immediately before eating.

Chilled creamy cucumber soup

In contrast to the next recipe, this is a cooked cucumber soup. It’s light, delicate and very refreshing.

SERVES 4

1 large cucumber, peeled and diced

1 small onion or shallot, chopped

850ml (1½ pints) vegetable stock

2-3 sprigs of fresh mint

2 tsp arrowroot or cornflour

4 tbsp double cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

sprigs of fresh mint, to garnish

Put the cucumber and chopped onion or shallot into a large saucepan with the stock and sprigs of mint. Bring to the boil and cover, simmering for 10–15 minutes.

Purée the soup thoroughly and return to the pan. Blend the arrowroot or cornflour with the cream and stir into the soup.

Bring to the boil, stirring all the time, and cook for a few seconds until thickened slightly. (If you’re using arrowroot, don’t overcook it, because that will prevent the soup from thickening.) Season to taste.

Chill thoroughly, then serve in chilled bowls with a sprig of mint on top of each.

Bulgarian chilled cucumber soup with walnuts

Yoghurt, cucumber, walnuts and dill may sound like rather a strange mixture but it works, I promise you. The choice of yoghurt is up to you; thick strained Greek yoghurt gives the richest result but you could use whole milk or low-fat yoghurt if you want a lighter soup.

SERVES 4

1 large cucumber, peeled and cut into rough chunks

1 garlic clove, crushed

425ml (15fl oz) natural yoghurt

25g (1oz) shelled walnut pieces

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh dill, to garnish

Blend the cucumber with the garlic, yoghurt, walnuts, about half a teaspoon of salt and a grinding of pepper, to a fairly smooth purée.

Taste and add some more salt and pepper if you think it needs it, then pour into a bowl and chill thoroughly.

Serve in chilled bowls sprinkled with the chopped dill.

Dal soup v

This light, refreshing soup is perfect for serving before a rice and curry meal. You can use either yellow split peas or split red lentils.

SERVES 4

175g (6oz) yellow split peas or split red lentils

1 large onion, chopped

2 tbsp rapeseed oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tsp turmeric

2 tsp grated fresh root ginger 1 bay leaf

1 litre (1¾ pints) water

juice of ½ lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 slices of lemon, to garnish

Cover the split peas or split red lentils with water and leave them to soak for a few hours, then drain and rinse.

Fry the onion in the oil in a large saucepan for 5 minutes, then add the garlic, turmeric, ginger and bay leaf and fry for a further 5 minutes.

Stir in the split peas or lentils and the water. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for about 30 minutes or until the lentils or split peas are soft.

Remove the bay leaf and blend the soup. Add enough of the lemon juice to sharpen the soup and bring out the flavour. Season with salt and pepper.

Reheat gently and serve each bowl with a slice of lemon floating on top.

Fasolada v

This Greek bean soup is very filling and comforting, especially if you serve it with some country-style bread.

SERVES 4

6 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 sticks of celery, sliced

2 carrots, chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

225g (8oz) dried haricot beans, soaked, rinsed and drained

1 litre (1¾ pints) unsalted vegetable stock or water

1 tbsp tomato purée

2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

squeeze of lemon juice

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion, celery, carrots and garlic for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent them from sticking.

Add the drained beans, stock or water, tomato purée and parsley, and bring to the boil. Cover, reduce the heat and leave to simmer gently for about 1¼ hours or until the beans are tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and a little lemon juice.

Serve with lots of country-style bread. If there’s any soup left over, it’s even better the next day.

Flageolet soup

This soup makes the most of the delicate flavour of pale green flageolet beans, and the green leek helps to accentuate their natural green colour. Use dried not canned beans for this soup, to get the best results.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) flageolet beans, soaked overnight

1 small onion, chopped

1 leek, sliced

25g (1oz) butter

850ml (1½ pints) unsalted vegetable stock or water

4 tbsp double cream

1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley, plus extra to garnish

salt and freshly ground black pepper

fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Rinse and drain the beans.

Fry the onion and leek gently in the butter in a large saucepan, covered, for about 10 minutes.

Add the beans to the onion and leek, together with the stock or water. Simmer gently for about 1 hour or until the beans are tender.

Blend the soup thoroughly, with the cream and parsley, until very smooth. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Reheat gently without boiling, then scatter some fresh parsley over each bowlful before serving.

Gazpacho v

This unashamedly easy version of gazpacho is perfect for hot, lazy days. If you keep a can of tomatoes in the fridge in the summer you can rustle it up in a matter of moments. It’s nice served with some country-style bread or crunchy croûtons.

SERVES 6

1 large onion, cut into rough chunks

2 large garlic cloves, crushed

2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes in juice

4 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO SERVE

about 10cm (4in) cucumber, diced

1 small green or red pepper, deseeded and finely chopped

1 tbsp chopped fresh chives

1 tbsp chopped fresh mint

croûtons (made by frying cubes of 3 slices of bread in olive oil and cutting into small dice)

Purée the onion, garlic and tomatoes in a blender or food processor. Stir in the olive oil, vinegar, some salt and a grinding of pepper and blend again.

Pour into a bowl or jug and chill.

Just before serving, stir the cucumber, pepper and herbs into the soup, then pour into individual bowls and hand round the croûtons separately.

Hot and sour soup v

I’ve experimented with many versions of this soup to get it just right, and this one, with its mixture of fresh ingredients and spices preserved in sunflower oil, is my favourite. I love it; it’s light, but the heat of the chilli and the balance of flavours make it very satisfying and uplifting. It’s perfect before an Asian meal, such as chilli-braised tofu steaks or salt and pepper tofu. Don’t be put off by the ingredients list; everything can be bought at a large super-market and the soup is quick and easy to make.

SERVES 4

FOR THE STOCK

stalks from a large bunch of coriander

1.5 litres (2½ pints) water

1 onion, quartered

2 stalks of lemon grass, split in half

4 garlic cloves, halved, no need to peel

4 kaffir lime leaves

3 slices of dried galangal

3 dried red chillies

FOR THE SOUP

1 tbsp mild-flavoured olive oil

150g (5oz) enoki mushrooms, trimmed from their base

4 kaffir lime leaves, roughly torn

1–2 tsp lemon grass in sunflower oil

1–2 tsp galangal in sunflower oil

2 tsp tamarind in sunflower oil

1 tbsp tamari or shoyu soy sauce salt

4 tbsp chopped fresh coriander leaves

Put all the stock ingredients into a large saucepan, bring to the boil, then turn the heat down, cover and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes.

Remove from the heat and strain through a sieve into a large bowl, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible. Set aside for the moment, discarding the debris in the sieve. Rinse out and dry the saucepan.

Heat the oil in the saucepan, add the enoki mushrooms and lime leaves and cook for 1–2 minutes. Pour in the stock and stir in the lemon grass, galangal, tamarind, soy sauce and a little salt to taste. Bring the soup just to the boil, then remove from the heat, stir in the chopped coriander and serve.

Leek soup

Leek, potatoes, stock – this soup couldn’t be simpler but it hits the spot every time. You can blend it, keep it as it is or blend half of it and leave the rest to give some texture.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

450g (1lb) potatoes, peeled and diced

2 leeks, sliced

850ml (1½ pints) water or light vegetable stock

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the potatoes and leeks and fry gently for about 5 minutes, stirring often and being careful not to let them brown.

Pour in the water or stock, bring to the boil then simmer, with a lid on the saucepan, for about 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Blend the soup, making it smooth or chunky, depending on your taste. Stir in the cream, if using, and season with salt and pepper.

Reheat gently without letting it boil. Ladle into warmed bowls and sprinkle over some chopped parsley.

Leek and carrot soup v

This pretty soup is pale golden and flecked with pieces of green leek, orange carrot and chopped fresh green herbs. It’s very cheering and uplifting on a winter’s day.

SERVES 4

2 large carrots, sliced

4 leeks, sliced

1 tbsp olive oil

850ml (1½ pints) vegetable stock or water

a pinch or two of freshly grated nutmeg

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tbsp chopped fresh chervil or flat-leaf parsley

In a large saucepan fry the carrots and leeks together in the oil for 10 minutes without browning.

Add the stock or water and cook gently for 30–40 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Blend, leaving some texture to the soup. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper and stir in the chopped chervil or parsley just before serving.

Chunky leek and potato soup

This is comfort food, and it’s quick and easy to make. I like it as it is or with some hot, buttery, crunchy garlic bread. It’s also delicious with a soft mound of grated, sharp-tasting cheese melted into it.

SERVES 4

15g (½oz) butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

900g (2lb) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunky pieces

700g (1½lb) leeks, sliced

575ml (1 pint) water

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

salt and freshly ground black pepper

chopped parsley (optional)

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry gently for 5 minutes, without browning.

Add the potatoes and leeks, stir and fry gently for a further 5 minutes, stirring often.

Pour in the water, stir in the bouillon powder and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, until the vegetables are just tender.

Mash some of the potatoes roughly, to thicken the soup. Check the seasoning, then serve with some chopped parsley sprinkled over, if you like.

VARIATION

Chunky mushroom and potato soup

For this version, leave out the leeks and use 225g (8oz) sliced chestnut mushrooms.

Classic lentil soup v

I think this smooth, golden soup is the most comforting of all soups and it couldn’t be easier to make. It was the first solid food I gave my youngest daughter when she was six months old and she still adores it – in fact, it’s a great favourite with all the family.

SERVES 4

1 large onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

225g (8oz) split red lentils

1 litre (1¾ pints) vegetable stock or water

1–2 tbsp lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion for about 5 minutes or until it’s lightly browned.

Add the lentils and stock or water and bring to the boil, then simmer for about 20 minutes or until the lentils are soft and golden.

Blend the soup, adding water to thin it if you wish. Add lemon juice to taste and season with salt and plenty of pepper. Reheat gently and serve.

VARIATION

Lentil soup with garlic and cumin v

Make as described, but shortly before serving, fry a chopped onion in a little olive oil with 2 crushed garlic cloves and 2 teaspoons of ground cumin. Stir into the soup just before serving.

Lentil soup with caramelised onions v

Make as described, and while the soup is cooking, slowly fry 2 finely sliced onions in a tablespoon of olive oil until deep golden brown and very soft. This will take at least 20 minutes. Serve each portion of soup with a glossy pile of caramelised onions on top, or stir through the soup before serving.

Lentil and mushroom soup

The lentils and mushrooms in this soup blend beautifully to make a deep, dark soup with a rich, earthy flavour. If they don’t know, people sometimes think they’re just eating mushroom soup, but of course the lentils give it extra body and are full of nourishment.

SERVES 4

1 large onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (5oz) butter

125g (4oz) mushrooms, chopped

125g (4oz) green or Puy lentils

850ml (1½ pints) water or unsalted vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or flakes of Parmesan-style cheese, to garnish

Fry the onion and garlic in the olive oil and butter in a large saucepan for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for a further 4–5 minutes.

Add the lentils and the water or stock. Simmer gently, with a lid on the saucepan, for about 45 minutes or until the lentils are tender.

Blend the soup if you want a smoother texture and thin it with a bit more water if you wish. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Reheat the soup and serve it in warm bowls topped with some chopped parsley or flakes of Parmesan-style cheese.

Lentil, tomato and basil soup v

Although it’s generally best to avoid cooking pulses with tomatoes because the acidity can prevent them from softening properly, split red lentils are an exception as they are so quick to cook. The result is a lovely tasty soup.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 stick of celery, chopped

125g (4oz) split red lentils, washed

400g can tomatoes

850ml (1½ pints) unsalted stock or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

squeeze of lemon juice

a few torn or shredded fresh basil leaves, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and celery and cook gently, covered, for 7–10 minutes without browning.

Add the lentils, tomatoes and stock or water, bring to the boil and simmer gently, with the pan half covered, for 25–30 minutes or until the lentils are tender. Blend to the consistency you like, then season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and perhaps a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the flavour.

Serve very hot, in warm bowls, scattered with the basil.

Lentil and vegetable soup v

Is there anything as satisfying, soothing and warming as a homemade lentil and vegetable soup filling the house with the scent of herbs? Plus, it’s so cheap and easy to make. It’s great as it is, or you could offer some flaked or grated strong cheese to stir into it and some chunks of country-style bread to mop up the juices.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

2 large carrots, cut into small dice

2 sticks of celery, thinly sliced

2 tomatoes, chopped

50g (2oz) mushrooms, chopped

75–125g (3–4oz) cabbage, shredded

125g (4 oz) dried green or Puy lentils, or a 400g can

1 litre (1¾ pints) unsalted stock

1 bouquet garni – a couple of sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf tied together

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and cook, covered, for 5 minutes, then stir in the garlic and all the other vegetables, cover and cook gently for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

Add the lentils, stock and the bouquet garni and bring to the boil, then cover and leave to simmer for about 1 hour or until the lentils are tender.

Remove the bouquet garni, stir in the chopped parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Lettuce soup

Why throw away the outer leaves of a lettuce that you’ve so carefully grown just because they’re too coarse for a salad? Make them into this fresh and summery soup instead.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

450g (1lb) potatoes, peeled and diced

outside leaves of 2–3 lettuces, chopped

1 litre (1¾ pints) water

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

salt, freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large saucepan and cook the onion and potato gently for 5 minutes with a lid on the pan, but don’t brown them.

Add the lettuce leaves and stir them for a minute or two until they’re glossy with the oil, then pour in the water or stock and bring to the boil. Simmer the soup gently, with a lid on the pan, for 15–20 minutes or until the potato is very tender.

Blend the soup and stir in the cream. Season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg and stir in the chopped chives.

Reheat and serve in warm bowls.

Cream of mushroom soup

My father was brilliant at finding field mushrooms – probably due to years of practice growing up on a farm in the Yorkshire Dales – and this is the soup that my mother used to make with his precious finds. It works very well with other types of mushrooms too.

SERVES 4

225g (8oz) mushrooms

1 small onion, quartered

1 bay leaf

1 garlic clove, sliced

a few parsley stalks

575ml (1 pint) vegetable stock

50g (2oz) butter

40g (1½oz) flour

about 575ml (1 pint) milk

salt and freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

a pinch of cayenne pepper

1 tbsp sherry (optional)

Wash the mushrooms and remove the stalks. If you’re using field mushrooms take off the skins too, but this isn’t necessary with cultivated mushrooms. Put the stalks (and skins if you’ve removed them) into a medium-sized saucepan together with the onion, bay leaf, garlic, parsley stalks and stock and bring to the boil, then leave to simmer for 10 minutes to extract the flavours. Strain the liquid into a measuring jug (discarding the stalks) and make the quantity up to 850ml (1½ pints) with the milk.

Melt 40g (1½noz) of the butter in the saucepan and stir in the flour. When it froths, pour in a quarter of the milk mixture and stir over a fairly high heat until it has thickened. Repeat the process with the rest of the milk in three more batches.

Chop or slice the mushrooms, fry them lightly in the remaining butter and add to the thickened milk.

Season with salt, pepper, a grating of nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne and the sherry if you’re using it. Cook gently for 3–4 minutes to give the flavours a chance to blend, then serve.

Vegetarian-style minestrone soup

A filling, main course soup that’s always great for feeding a crowd.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

3 onions, chopped

1 large carrot, diced

2 sticks of celery, sliced

2 large garlic cloves, crushed

1 large potato, peeled and cut into 1cm (½in) dice

a few leaves of cabbage, chopped

400g can chopped tomatoes

1 litre (1¾ pints) stock or water

bouquet garni

225g (8oz) dried haricot, borlotti or cannellini beans, cooked, or 2 x 400g cans

50g (2oz) macaroni or small pasta shapes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves, to garnish

handful of grated strongly flavoured cheese such as pecorino or Parmesan-style, to serve

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onions, carrot and celery, cover and cook gently for 5 minutes, then add the garlic and the other vegetables and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, stock or water and the bouquet garni. Bring to the boil, then boil for 10 minutes.

Add the drained cooked beans and the macaroni or pasta shapes and cook until the pasta is just tender, about 8-10 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper, and serve in warm bowls with torn fresh basil leaves sprinkled over the top. Hand the cheese round separately for people to help themselves.

Miso soup v

This soup is so quick and easy and also very soothing and nourishing. You can buy dried wakame seaweed from any good health-food shop and many supermarkets. You only need a little and what is left over will keep perfectly in a dry place for months. Good-quality, unpasterised miso is also widely available; you’ll find it a useful flavouring for many savoury dishes, but always remember to add it at the end of cooking to preserve the health-giving enzymes it contains.

SERVES 4

5cm (2in) piece of wakame seaweed

2 dried shiitake mushrooms, if available

1.2 litres (2 pints) water

4 spring onions, chopped

4 tsp brown rice miso

Soak the wakame and shiitake mushrooms in a cupful of the water for about 10 minutes, then drain, reserving the liquid.

Cut the wakame into shreds, discarding any hard bits, and slice the mushrooms. Put these into a large saucepan, along with their soaking water, the 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water, and the spring onions and simmer for 5–10 minutes.

Put the miso into a small bowl, add a ladleful of the soup and stir until blended, then tip the mixture back into the pan. Leave the pan over the heat for 2–3 minutes, without letting it boil, then serve.

French onion soup

You don’t need beef stock to make a delectable French onion soup. This vegetarian version fills the house with its aroma as it cooks and keeps everyone satisfied, I promise you.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

450g (1lb) onion, sliced

1 tbsp flour

850ml (1½ pints) water

1 tbsp high-quality bouillon powder

3 tbsp sherry

1 large garlic clove, crushed

4 tsp Dijon mustard

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 slices of baguette

75–125g (3–4oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onions slowly for 15–20 minutes until they’re golden, stirring from time to time.

Add the flour and cook for a few seconds before stirring in the water, bouillon powder, sherry, garlic, mustard and some salt and pepper.

Bring to the boil, then leave to simmer gently, covered, for 30 minutes.

Just before the soup is ready, warm four heatproof soup bowls and lightly toast the baguette. Heat the grill to medium-high.

Check the consistency of the soup, adding a splash of boiling water if it needs to be a bit thinner, and adjust the seasoning to taste.

Put a slice of toasted baguette into each bowl and ladle the soup on top. Scatter with the grated cheese and place the bowls under the grill for a few minutes. Serve the soup immediately, bubbling and oozing with molten cheese.

Parsnip soup

This is one of the soups that I grew up with, and one I often made for guests when working at a retreat centre. It’s a beautiful soup that costs next to nothing to make.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

225g (8oz) parsnips, peeled and diced

1 carrot, sliced

1 potato, peeled and diced

1 onion, chopped

1 bay leaf

425ml (15fl oz) water

425ml (15fl oz)milk

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1–2 pinches of ground mace

dusting of paprika, to garnish

Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan, add the parsnips, carrot, potato and onion and fry over a gentle heat, with a lid on the pan, for 10 minutes.

Add the bay leaf, water and milk. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, then blend the soup.

Season with salt, pepper and mace. Serve with a dusting of paprika on top.

Soupe au pistou v

This delicious soup from southern France makes a filling main course with warm crusty bread.

SERVES 4

2 onions, chopped

100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil

2 carrots, chopped

2 potatoes, peeled and diced

225g (8oz) courgettes, sliced

125g (4oz) green beans, sliced

450g (1lb) tomatoes, skinned and chopped

225g (8oz) dried haricot beans, soaked, cooked and drained, or 2 x 400g cans

1.7 litres (3 pints) vegetable stock or water plus 4 tsp bouillon powder

50g (2oz) vermicelli

salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 garlic cloves, crushed

leaves from a bunch of basil

Fry the onions in 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan for 5 minutes. Add the carrots and potatoes and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the courgettes, green beans, tomatoes, haricot beans and the stock. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 20–30 minutes.

Add the vermicelli and cook for 8–10 minutes or until it’s tender. Season well.

While the soup is cooking, whiz together the remaining oil with the garlic and basil. Stir this fragrant purée into the soup and serve in warmed bowls.

Green pea soup with mint and cream

Frozen peas make a vivid green soup with a very smooth texture. It looks lovely swirled with cream and flecked with dark green chopped mint, and is good either hot or chilled.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

900g (2lb) frozen peas

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water

a few sprigs of thyme

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

2 tbsp chopped fresh mint

Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry gently for 5–7 minutes, with a lid on the pan, until fairly soft but not browned.

Add the peas, the stock or water and the thyme. Bring to the boil, then simmer for about 15 minutes or until the vegetables are soft.

Blend, and if you want it silky soft, make sure you do this thoroughly. For perfection, you could then pass it through a sieve, pushing through as much of the pea purée as you can, but this isn’t by any means essential – you’ll still have a great soup without this extra effort.

Season the soup and gently reheat, then ladle into bowls and top each with a good splash of cream and a scattering of mint.

Potato soup with fresh herbs

Although this is a simple soup, it always tastes good, with its smooth creamy texture and topping of fresh green herbs.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

450g (1lb) potatoes, peeled and diced

850ml (1½ pints) water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

2 tbsp chopped fresh herbs (such as chives, parsley or tarragon), to garnish

Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan. Add the onion and fry gently, with a lid on the pan, for 3–4 minutes. Add the potatoes, stir, then cover and cook gently for a further 5 minutes, without browning.

Pour in the water, bring to the boil, then simmer for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

Blend the soup, stir in the cream, then season with salt and pepper.

Reheat and serve sprinkled with the fresh herbs.

Pumpkin soup

Pumpkin makes a very delicious soup, golden in colour with a delicate yet distinctive flavour. It’s lovely sprinkled with chopped parsley and served with garlic bread.

SERVES 6

1 kg (2¼lb) pumpkin (weight includes skin and pips)

15g (½oz) butter

1 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, chopped

2 large garlic cloves, crushed

1 litre (1¾ pints) vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

150ml (5fl oz) single cream or crème fraîche

Cut the skin off the pumpkin, scoop out the seeds and cut the flesh into even-sized pieces.

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan, add the onions and cook, covered, for about 5 minutes, then add the garlic and pumpkin and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Pour in the stock, season and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer until the pumpkin is tender (about 20 minutes).

Blend to a glorious golden purée, then add the cream and a splash more water to thin it if necessary.

Reheat gently then ladle into bowls and serve.

Spinach soup

Spinach makes a beautiful deep green soup with a sharp, iron-y flavour that’s sweetened by a spoonful of cream.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 potato, peeled and chopped

450g (1lb) spinach leaves

850ml (1½ pints) vegetable stock or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

squeeze of lemon juice

4 tbsp single cream or crème fraîche, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onion and potato and fry gently without browning, with a lid on the pan, for 5–10 minutes.

Push the spinach into the pan and pour in the stock or water. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 15–20 minutes or until the potato is tender.

Blend well, then adjust the consistency of the soup with a little water if necessary and season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Reheat, then serve in warmed bowls with a spoonful of cream or crème fraîche on top of each.

Spinach and lentil soup v

Green lentils and spinach are natural companions and this soup is earthy, warming and satisfying.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

125g (4oz) green lentils

225g (8oz) spinach leaves, washed

1 litre (1¾ pints) unsalted vegetable stock or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2–3 tsp lemon juice

croûtons or thick yoghurt, to serve (optional)

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry for 10 minutes, with a lid on the pan, until the onion is almost tender and flecked with brown.

Stir in the garlic, lentils and spinach, then pour in the stock or water and bring to the boil. Simmer gently, with a lid on the pan, for about 45 minutes, until the lentils are soft.

Blend the soup, then reheat, season it with salt, freshly ground black pepper and lemon juice.

Serve just as it is, in deep, warm bowls, or top with a spoonful of crisp golden croûtons or thick Greek yoghurt.

Green split pea soup v

These green split peas, which you can get at health-food shops, make a pleasant change from the more usual yellow ones, or indeed from the colour of most dried beans, and they taste good too. As it’s a winter soup, I use dried herbs here; both marjoram and savory are useful to have in the store cupboard for adding depth of flavour, particularly to pulses.

SERVES 4

175g (6oz) green split peas

1.2 litres (2 pints) water

1 onion, chopped

2 potatoes, peeled and sliced

2 sticks of celery, chopped

2 small leeks, sliced

½ tsp dried savory or marjoram

salt and freshly ground black pepper

garlic butter, to serve (optional)

Put the split peas into a large saucepan with the water, all the vegetables and the savory or marjoram and bring to the boil.

Simmer gently until the split peas are tender – about 50 minutes. This soup can be served as it is, with chunky pieces of vegetables in it, or blended until completely smooth, or part-blended, the choice is yours. If necessary, add a little more water to bring it to the consistency you like.

Season with salt and pepper, reheat and serve in warmed bowls, topped with a piece of garlic butter (a little softened butter mashed with a crushed garlic clove) for extra flavour. Or you could go the whole hog and serve it with crisp, buttery garlic bread.

Chilled green split pea soup with mint

Here’s another way to use dried green split peas, and it couldn’t be more different from the previous one. I love this soup because it shows pulses in a different light altogether – all spruced up and elegant.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 stick of celery, chopped

8 sprigs of fresh mint

125g (4oz) green split peas

1 litre (1¾ pints) unsalted stock

a pinch of ground cloves

1 bay leaf

salt and freshly ground black pepper

single cream or crème fraîche, or mint sprigs, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and celery and fry gently, without browning, for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile remove the leaves from the stems of the mint and set aside. Add the stalks to the saucepan, together with the split peas, stock, ground cloves and bay leaf.

Bring to the boil, half covered with a lid, and simmer for about 40 minutes or until the split peas are tender.

Remove the bay leaf and mint stalks, add the mint leaves and blend until smooth and creamy, then season with salt and pepper.

Cool then chill the soup in the fridge. Check the seasoning again before serving, then ladle into individual bowls and top with a spoonful of crème fraîche or cream, or a fresh mint sprig, or both.

Yellow split pea soup v

Normally I don’t add any thickening to a lentil or split pea soup; they have enough body without. However, this soup is an exception. The split peas are cooked, puréed, then stirred into a roux of butter and flour, just like making a sauce. The result is a particularly smooth and creamy texture and buttery flavour.

SERVES 4-6

225g (8oz) yellow split peas

1.7 litres (3 pints) water or unsalted vegetable stock

25g (1oz) butter or pure vegetable margarine

1 large onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

25g (1oz) flour (I use fine wholemeal)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the split peas into a large saucepan with the liquid, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 40–50 minutes or until tender. You need a large pan for this because of the bubbling water. If this is a problem, try adding a little oil to the cooking water, or cook the peas using only 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and add the rest when you blend the soup.

Blend the split peas until smooth and transfer to a bowl.

Melt the butter in the rinsed-out saucepan and fry the onion until golden. Stir in the garlic and flour, cook for a minute or two, then gradually pour in the split pea purée, stirring until you have a smooth mixture.

Let the soup simmer for 5–10 minutes to cook the flour, then season and serve.

Sweetcorn soup

A pretty, pale golden soup with a hint of sweetness. You can blend it until it’s smooth, and then strain it too if you want it really delicate and silky; or half-blend it, leaving some pieces of sweetcorn for texture. You will need 2–3 sweetcorn cobs for this quantity of kernels, or you could use frozen kernels, which work well too.

SERVES 4

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp of olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

225g (8oz) sweetcorn kernels, frozen or cut from the cob

700ml (1¼ pints) water

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

a pinch or two of paprika, to taste, plus extra for garnishing

a squeeze of lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large saucepan, fry the onion in the oil and butter, covered, for 10 minutes. Don’t let the onion brown.

Add the sweetcorn and water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10–15 minutes.

Blend the soup until it is the texture you want, then stir in the cream, paprika and a little lemon juice, plus salt and pepper to taste.

Reheat gently, without boiling, and sprinkle a dusting of paprika pepper on top.

Tomato and fresh basil soup with cream

When it’s made in the summer with just-picked tomatoes and fragrant fresh basil, this has to be one of the best soups of all, but even canned tomatoes give a very acceptable result as long as you a choose good quality brands.

SERVES 4-6

1 tbsp olive oil

25g (½oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

350g (12oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into even-sized chunks

450g (1lb) tomatoes, chopped

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

sugar (optional)

TO GARNISH

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

2 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan and add the onion. Fry for 5–7 minutes, covered, until fairly soft but not browned.

Add the potatoes, stir, cover and cook for a further 5–10 minutes. Cover the pan but stir often to prevent sticking.

Add the tomatoes and the stock or water. Bring to the boil, then simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are very tender.

Blend thoroughly then pour the soup through a sieve into a clean saucepan to remove the seeds and skins of the tomatoes.

Taste and season with salt, pepper and a pinch or two of sugar if you think it needs it. Reheat and serve each bowl topped with a generous spoonful of cream and some basil.

Clear vegetable broth v

The better the stock, the better this soup will be. Homemade stock is great, if you have it, but if not, good-quality vegetable bouillon powder or stock concentrate will also work well.

SERVES 4

2 sticks of celery, chopped

2 onions, chopped

2 carrots, diced

other vegetables as available (e.g. a few French beans or a little cabbage)

2 tsp olive oil

1 tsp yeast extract

1 tsp tomato purée

1 bay leaf

850ml (1½ pints) vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives, to garnish

Fry the celery, onion and carrot together in the oil without browning for 5 minutes.

Add the beans, broken into short lengths, and the cabbage, shredded. Cook over a gentle heat for a further 5 minutes. Cover the pan but stir often.

Add the yeast extract, tomato purée, bay leaf and stock, bring to the boil and simmer for 20–30 minutes.

Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sprinkle with the chopped chives before serving.

VARIATION

Clear mushroom broth v

Mushrooms make a delightful broth. You can use any type – field, portobello, shiitake or delicate little button mushrooms. Leave out the carrots and other vegetables, and add 225g (8oz) sliced or chopped mushrooms to the onions and celery after they have been frying for 5 minutes. Pour in the stock, bring the boil and simmer for 10–15 minutes, then stir in 2 heaped tablespoons of chopped flat-leaf parsley before serving.

Creamy white bean soup with truffle oil v

This silky-smooth soup is very easy to prepare and a sure-fire hit with everyone. The swirl of truffle oil on the top makes it luxurious enough for a special occasion.

SERVES 4

2 x 400g cans haricot or cannellini beans or 200g (7oz) soaked and cooked until very tender

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or a stock cube

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

a little chopped fresh parsley

4 tsp truffle oil

Drain the beans, reserving the liquid if you are using ones you have cooked yourself.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion, cover with a lid and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until the onion is soft but not brown.

Stir in the garlic and cook for a few seconds, then add the drained beans. Make the drained liquid from the beans up to 850ml (1½ pints) with water, or just use water and add to the pan, along with the bouillon powder or stock cube. Bring to the boil, then simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.

Blend the soup thoroughly until it is really smooth and creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve in bowls with a little finely chopped parsley, a grinding of pepper and a swirl of truffle oil.

Winter vegetable soup

A pale golden soup, full of flavour, and it couldn’t be easier to make. Try a big, steaming bowl of it on a winter’s day, with chunks of crusty bread.

SERVES 4

1.2 litres (2 pints) water

2 fairly large carrots

2 onions

2 potatoes

1 swede (about 225g (8oz))

1 turnip (about 225g (8oz))

4 sticks of celery

15g (½oz) butter

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pour the water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil while you prepare the vegetables. Peel and cut them into fairly small chunks, then add them to the water, together with some salt, and simmer gently, covered, for about 30 minutes or until they’re tender.

Blend the soup to the smoothness you want, and stir in the butter. Season to taste, then reheat and serve.

Vichyssoise

This classic chilled summer soup is always popular.

SERVES 6

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

225g (8oz) potatoes, peeled and diced

700g (1½lb) leeks, sliced

575ml (1 pint) water

salt

575ml (1 pint) milk

freshly ground black pepper

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

2 tbsp chopped chives, to garnish

Fry the onion in the oil and butter for about 5 minutes in a large, covered saucepan but don’t let it brown.

Add the potatoes and leeks and stir until they’re coated glossy with the oil. Put the lid back on the pan, turn the heat right down and cook gently for a further 15 minutes, stirring from time to time and being careful not to let it brown.

Stir in the water and a little salt and bring to the boil, then cover and leave to simmer for 20–30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Purée the soup very thoroughly, adding some of the milk if you like, to make the process easier. Tip the soup into a bowl or jug – pouring it in through a sieve if you want the soup really velvety – and add the remaining milk. Taste and season the soup, then chill it.

Taste the soup again before serving, then spoon some cream over the top of each bowlful. Sprinkle with the chopped chives and serve.

Watercress soup

This is my family’s favourite soup and the one I get the most requests to make.

SERVES 4-6

900g (2lb) potatoes, peeled

3 tbsp olive oil

salt

2 litres (3 pints) light vegetable stock or water

vegetable bouillon powder or a stock cube

1 packet of fresh watercress

freshly ground black pepper

Slice the potatoes as thinly as you can; this is to help them soften quickly in the oil.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the potato slices with a sprinkling of salt, which also helps the softening process by drawing the water out of the potatoes. Cook very gently, covered, for 5–15 minutes, stirring often. The longer you can let them ‘sweat’ like this, the better the soup. They can get flecked with some gold, but don’t let them brown because that will spoil the flavour. Add 1–2 tablespoons of water if they start to stick.

Add three-quarters of the stock or water and the bouillon powder or stock cube. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for 5–15 minutes or until the potatoes are soft. The timing will depend on how long you sweated the potato for if you got it very tender, this stage will take hardly any time.

Reserve some small sprigs of watercress for garnishing (one for each bowl), and add the rest to the soup. Blend thoroughly to a smooth, bright green cream. Adjust the consistency with the remaining water to get it to the consistency you like.

Season with salt and pepper (you may not need much salt, if any). Reheat and serve with watercress leaves and a grinding of black pepper on each bowlful.

First courses, snacks and drinks

Quick meals to eat on the move, snacks to rustle up in an instant and light dishes to whet the appetite in anticipation of the main course – that’s what this chapter is about.

You’ll find some stunning first courses that are perfect for a special occasion meal or weekend dinner, followed by deliciously simple bruschetta and crostini, then plenty of lunch-box sandwiches and wraps for kids and adults alike. If you’re short on time, try the tasty savouries on toast and super-quick ciabatta or pitta pizzas. Finally, wash it all down with fresh peppermint tea or a nutritious smoothie.

First courses
Antipasto salad

A colourful Italian-style first course.

SERVES 6

225g (8oz) button mushrooms

2 tbsp olive oil

1 small red pepper

2 tsp wine or cider vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch of radishes

bunch of spring onions

2 heads of chicory

cucumber

6 tomatoes

4 hardboiled eggs

175g packet of chargrilled artichoke hearts, from the deli

175g packet of sliced roasted peppers, from the deli

12 black olives, or your favourite olives, to garnish

vinaigrette, to serve

Wash and slice the mushrooms; fry lightly in 1 tablespoon of the oil for 5 minutes, then leave to cool.

Slice the red pepper very thinly, discarding the seeds. Place on a flat dish and sprinkle with the remaining oil and wine or cider vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. If possible, leave for 1–2 hours to soften.

Wash and trim the radishes and spring onions; slice the chicory lengthways into quarters, and the cucumber, tomatoes and eggs into circles.

Arrange all the ingredients attractively on individual dishes or a large platter, garnish with olives and serve with vinaigrette.

Globe artichoke hollandaise

This is a delightful starter: cooked globe artichokes filled with hollandaise sauce. You pull off the leaves and dip the bases in the sauce, then enjoy the delicious heart. You’ll need finger bowls, and bowls in which to put the discarded leaves after you’ve sucked the flesh from them. It’s best to cook the artichokes ahead of time then gently reheat them just before serving.

SERVES 4

4 globe artichokes, stems removed

a squeeze of lemon juice

blender hollandaise, to serve

Cut the stalks off the artichokes so that they will sit level, then wash them thoroughly under the cold tap. You might like to trim the points off the leaves using scissors, so that they are less sharp; or you could leave them as they are.

Cook the artichokes in a large saucepan of boiling water, with a good squeeze of lemon juice added, for about 45 minutes, or until a leaf will pull off easily. Drain and rinse under cold water to cool quickly.

Open out the leaves to get to the centre of the artichoke, like opening out the petals of a flower. Pull off and discard the central purple cluster of tender leaves. Underneath you will find the fluffy ‘choke’, which is inedible, so you’ll need to scoop this out with a knife or pointed teaspoon, then rinse the artichoke under the cold tap.

Just before you want to serve the artichokes, reheat them in a microwave in a covered container on high for 4–6 minutes, or until heated through, or stand them in a shallow roasting tin or ovenproof dish, cover with foil and reheat in the oven preheated to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4 for about 15 minutes or until heated through.

Place each artichoke on a warm plate. Spoon the hollandaise sauce into the centre and serve at once.

Aubergine fritters with tomato sauce v

This is one of the simplest ways of preparing aubergines, but one of my favourites, and I think it’s tasty enough to serve as an extra course or light meal on its own.

SERVES 6

450g (1lb) aubergines

plain flour for coating

salt and freshly ground black pepper

olive oil, for shallow-frying

grated Parmesan-style cheese

lemon wedges

watercress

425ml (15fl oz) homemade tomato sauce, soured cream and herb sauce or tartare sauce, to serve

Wash the aubergines and remove the stems, then cut the aubergines into 6mm (¼in) slices and dip them in flour that has been seasoned with salt and pepper.

Just before you want to serve the aubergines, heat a little oil in a frying pan and fry the slices, a few at a time, on both sides, until the outside is crisp and the inside feels tender when pierced with the point of a sharp knife.

As the fritters are ready, put them in a roasting tin lined with crumpled kitchen paper and keep them warm under the grill or in a low oven until they are all ready.

Serve the fritters sprinkled with a little grated Parmesan-style cheese and garnished with wedges of lemon and sprigs of watercress. Serve the sauce separately.

Aubergine and tapenade rolls v

These rolls are easy to make and are wonderful as part of a selection of canapés or tapas, or arranged on individual plates with some yoghurt and green herb dressing, for a starter.

MAKES 24 OR 48 ROLLS

3 large aubergines

6–8 tbsp olive oil

1 quantity of tapenade

a sprig of flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Heat the grill.

Cut the stalk ends from the aubergines, then cut the aubergines lengthways into slices about 6mm (¼in) thick. (You will probably get 8–10 slices from each aubergine.)

Brush the slices lightly on both sides with oil and place side by side in a single layer on a grill pan; you may have to do them in batches. Grill for about 5 minutes or until pale brown on top, then turn them over and grill the other side until lightly browned and tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Leave to cool.

To make the rolls, spread one of the aubergine slices quite thinly with tapenade, then roll it up firmly like a Swiss roll. Place seam-side down on a serving plate. Continue in this way until you have done all of them. Serve them whole like this or cut each one in half, which makes them easier to eat if you’re serving them as canapés. Garnish parsley sprigs.

VARIATION

Aubergine and hummus rolls v

Use 250g (9oz) bought or homemade hummus instead of the tapenade and include a little chopped coriander in each roll. Garnish with extra coriander.

Aubergine and garlic cheese rolls v

Use 250g (9oz) dairy or vegan cream cheese with garlic and herbs instead of the tapenade. Garnish with parsley.

Avocado and grapefruit salad v

I love this combination of sharp citrus fruit and buttery avocado. The colours are very pretty and fresh-looking, too.

SERVES 6

2 grapefruit

2 oranges

2 avocado

lettuce

1 tbsp chopped mint

Using a serrated knife, and holding the fruit over a bowl, cut, peel and pith the grapefruit and oranges and slice out the segments.

Thinly peel, stone and slice the avocados, and add to the grapefruit and oranges. Pile onto lettuce leaves and serve chilled and sprinkled with chopped mint.

Melon with ginger v

Adding ginger works magic on melons that are not sweet and fragrant enough to be eaten on their own.

SERVES 6

1 honeydew melon

3 pieces of preserved stem ginger, chopped

6 tbsp of the syrup from the preserved ginger

If the melon is really tender (it can be sliced into with a spoon), cut it into six wedges, remove the seeds, spoon the chopped ginger and the syrup over each piece of melon, and serve.

For less-than-perfect melon, slice off the skin, remove the seeds, and cut the flesh into small pieces. Place in a mixing bowl, add the chopped ginger and syrup and stir together. Serve in individual bowls.

VARIATION

Melon with crème de menthe v

A speciality of a friend of mine and, I must admit, I’d never have thought of this combination, but it’s wonderful. Use a melon with white or pale green flesh – again, it’s a fantastic way of cheering up a melon that’s lacking in flavour. Cut the melon into wedges, pour 1–2 tablespoons of crème de menthe over each and garnish with a sprig of fresh mint if you have some.

Marinated mushrooms v

Serve these spicy, piquant mushrooms well chilled, with some bread to mop up the spicy juices.

SERVES 4

450g (1lb) baby button mushrooms

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp ground coriander

1 bay leaf

2 garlic cloves, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp lemon juice

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to serve

Wash the mushrooms, halving or quartering any larger ones, then fry them in the olive oil with the coriander, bay leaf and garlic for about 2 minutes, stirring all the time.

Put the mushrooms straight into a large bowl to prevent further cooking, then add the lemon juice and a grinding of black pepper. Cool, then chill the mixture.

Check the seasoning before serving the mushrooms on individual plates with a scattering of chopped parsley on top.

Pears with blue cheese and walnuts

The secret to this dish is using really ripe, sweet pears. I find it’s safest to buy hard pears up to a week in advance and let them ripen gently at room temperature. Small pears with a rounded shape work best – Comice are perfect.

SERVES 4

4 ripe sweet pears

juice of 1 lemon

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

50g (2oz) shelled walnuts pieces

125g (4oz) watercress

125–175g (4–6oz) Stilton or Danish Blue cheese, broken into pieces

Preheat the grill if you are toasting the walnuts. Peel the pears and cut into even-sized pieces, removing the core. Put into a bowl with the lemon juice, oil, some salt and a generous grinding of pepper, and mix together.

Spread the walnuts on a grill pan and toast under the hot grill for a few minutes until they smell wonderful, but be careful not to burn them. Or use them untoasted if you prefer.

Arrange the watercress on four plates. Spoon the pears on top and divide the dressing between the plates.

Tuck pieces of cheese among the pears and watercress, and scatter with the walnuts, breaking them up a bit in your fingers as you do so. If they’re still warm from the grill when you serve them, that’s even better.

Salsify with butter, parsley and lemon

Salsify – and their close relative, scorzonera – look like long, rather dirty dark roots when you see them in the shops, but when they’re peeled and cooked they have a delicious, delicate flavour.

SERVES 4

1kg (2 lb) salsify or scorzonera (unpeeled weight)

2 tbsp lemon juice

salt

25g (1oz) butter

freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Peel the roots, keeping them under cold water to preserve the colour. Cut them into 2.5cm (1in) pieces and put them straight into a bowl of cold water with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.

Bring 2.5cm (1in) of salted water to the boil in a large saucepan, add the roots and cook for about 10 minutes or until just tender.

Drain and add the butter, the remaining lemon juice, the parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Heat gently to melt the butter, then serve at once.

Salsify fritters

These delicate fritters make a perfect first course.

SERVES 4

700g (1 lb) salsify or scorzonera

3 tbsp red wine vinegar

1–2 tbsp chopped fresh herbs (e.g. parsley or dill)

salt and freshly ground pepper

125g (4oz) plain flour

1 tbsp olive oil

2 eggs, separated

150ml (5fl oz) water

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

lemon slices, to serve

Prepare and cook the salsify as described in the first two paragraphs of the previous recipe. Drain well, then sprinkle with the vinegar, herbs and some salt and pepper.

Mix together the flour, oil, seasoning, egg yolks and water to form a batter. Whisk the egg whites, then fold into the batter.

Heat enough oil to half fill a medium-sized saucepan to 190°C (375°F) (or when a little batter sizzles if dropped into the oil). Coat the salsify pieces in batter, then fry for about 4 minutes or until browned. Drain and serve with the lemon slices.

Salsify mayonnaise

Cooked and mixed with mayonnaise, salsify makes a lovely dish that I think of as the vegetarian equivalent to a light fish dish, though I can’t swear to this as I haven’t eaten fish since I was three years old!

SERVES 4

1kg (2 lb) salsify or scorzonera

2 tbsp lemon juice

3 tbsp mayonnaise

3 tbsp natural yoghurt

TO GARNISH

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

lemon slices

Peel and cook the salsify until tender. While still hot, add the lemon juice, mayonnaise and yoghurt. Leave to cool.

Serve on individual plates, garnished with the parsley and lemon slices.

Easy spring rolls v

These may seem fiddly, but actually they’re easy to make and delicious served with a sweet chilli dipping sauce.

MAKES 24 SPRING ROLLS

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

335g packet beansprouts

1 small pointed red pepper, deseeded and sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed

a thumb-sized piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated or finely chopped

head of Chinese leaves, shredded

3 tbsp dark soy sauce

salt

270g packet filo pastry (6 sheets, approximately 500mm × 240mm (20in × 9 in))

rapeseed or groundnut oil, for brushing

sweet chilli sauce, to serve

Fry the onion in the oil in a large saucepan for 5 minutes or until beginning to soften. Add the bean sprouts, red pepper, garlic, ginger and Chinese leaves, stir-fry for a further 5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Add the soy sauce and some salt to taste, then leave to cool.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6.

Cut each sheet of filo pastry in half right down the middle, and across, making 24 rectangles.

Take one rectangle of filo pastry. Put about a tablespoon of the vegetable mixture across the filo, about 1cm (½in) from the top. Fold over the top, and fold over the sides, then roll the pastry to make a spring roll shape.

Brush the spring roll with oil, or put some oil on a plate and dip the spring roll in this, to coat lightly. Place the spring roll on a baking sheet and repeat with the rest of the mixture until all the filo and (probably) all of the vegetable mixture is used.

Bake the spring rolls for about 10 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Serve with a chilli dipping sauce.

Sweet potato bhajis v

These crisp tasty morsels make a tempting starter or nibble. They’re great with mango chutney, tomato salsa or cucumber and coriander raita; or add some hot cooked rice to make a light main course.

MAKES 8 / SERVES 4 AS A STARTER, 2 AS A MAIN COURSE

350g (12oz) sweet potato

1 onion, very finely chopped

125g (4oz) chickpea flour

1 tsp dried red chilli flakes

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp salt

3 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Peel and grate the sweet potatoes, then put into a bowl and add the onion, chickpea flour, chilli flakes, baking powder, salt and coriander. Mix well; as you mix, the moisture from the vegetables will be drawn out and will bind everything together. Add a tablespoonful or so of water only if the chickpea flour remains dry.

Heat enough oil in a medium-sized saucepan for deep-frying. (The pan needs to be half full of oil.) When the oil reaches 180°C (350°F), or a cube of bread rises to the surface and turns golden brown in under 1 minute, put in 3–4 dessertspoons of the mixture, depending on the size of your pan. Don’t make the bhajis too big – they’re best when light and rather straggly and gorgeously crisp – and don’t crowd the pan, otherwise the oil will cool and the bhajis will stick together. Deep-fry the bhajis for about 4 minutes or until crisp, brown and cooked right through, then remove them with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Keep the bhajis warm in a low oven or under a warm grill while you cook the rest of the mixture.

VARIATION

Cabbage bhajis v

These are delicious; use 350g (12oz) shredded green cabbage instead of the sweet potatoes.

Onion bhajis v

Use 450g (1lb) red onions instead of the sweet potatoes, and omit the extra onion in the main recipe.

Tomatoes with horseradish cream

This is simple but delicious – sliced tomatoes topped with a piquant creamy horseradish dressing. The better the tomatoes, the better this dish will be.

SERVES 4

6 large firm tomatoes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

125g (4oz) ricotta cheese

2 tbsp natural yoghurt

2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

tsp red wine vinegar

2 tsp horseradish sauce or 1 tsp grated horseradish

chopped fresh chives, to garnish

You could skin the tomatoes if you wish: cover with boiling water for a minute, then drain and slip off the skins. Slice the tomatoes, with skins or without, into bite-sized pieces, divide between four plates and season with salt and pepper.

To make the topping, mix together the ricotta cheese, yoghurt, oil, vinegar and horseradish sauce until creamy. You could use a blender for this if you want it really smooth.

Season, then pour this mixture over the tomatoes and sprinkle over some chopped chives.

Stuffed vine leaves v

These are fun to make and delicious served as part of a selection of tapas, or arranged attractively on individual plates with some tzatziki or hummus and a few juicy black olives.

SERVES 4–6

36 fresh vine leaves (if available) or preserved vine leaves

225g (8oz) brown basmati rice

1 large onion, chopped

2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

2 fresh tomatoes, skinned and chopped

50g (2oz) pine nuts

50g (2oz) raisins

tsp cinnamon

2 garlic cloves, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tbsp olive oil

150ml (5fl oz) water

1–2 tbsp lemon juice

lemon wedges, to garnish

If you’re using fresh vine leaves, half fill a large saucepan with water and bring it to the boil. Trim the leaves and put into the boiling water, cover and simmer for 2 minutes. Then drain and run under cold water to refresh them. Drain well. With preserved vine leaves, simply drain and rinse well under the cold tap.

Half fill the saucepan with water; add the rice and boil for 10 minutes, then drain.

Mix together the rice, onion, parsley, tomatoes, pine kernels, raisins, cinnamon, garlic and seasoning. Place a spoonful of this filling on each leaf, fold the edges over and place the little bundles side by side in a frying pan. Mix together the oil and water and pour over the vine leaves. Sprinkle the lemon juice on top.

Cook, covered, over a very gentle heat for 2–2½ hours or until the rice and leaves are tender. Keep an eye on the water level and add a little more from time to time if necessary. Serve garnished with lemon wedges.

Aïoli with crudités

This garlic-flavoured mayonnaise from Provence, served with a gloriously colourful selection of whatever fresh vegetables are available, makes a wonderful first course or even a light meal. You need a blender or food processor to make this recipe.

SERVES 4–6

FOR THE CRUDITÉS

A selection of raw vegetables in bite-sized pieces; aim for maybe 4–5 different types of contrasting colours, such as: crunchy red radishes served whole with some of the green parts still attached; bright orange carrot cut into matchsticks; strips of deseeded red pepper; cauliflower florets; small very fresh mushrooms; spring onions, trimmed; pieces of crunchy fennel bulb; juicy cucumber in chunks; crisp leaves of chicory or sticks of celery; quarters of firm tomatoes, or cherry tomatoes.

FOR THE AÏOLI

1 egg

2–4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

tsp salt

tsp mustard powder

tsp pepper

2 tsp red wine vinegar

2 tsp lemon juice

200ml (7fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

Break the egg into the blender and add the garlic, salt, mustard, pepper, vinegar and lemon juice.

Blend at a medium speed for about 1 minute. Then turn the speed to high and gradually add the oil, drop by drop, through the top of the lid.

When about half the oil has been added and you hear the sound of the mixture change, you can add the oil more quickly in a thin stream.

If the mixture is very thick you can thin it by stirring in a little hot water. Serve the aïoli in a bowl with the crudités on the side.

VARIATION

Quick and easy aïoli

Nothing beats the real thing, but you can make a good quick aïoli using high-quality bought mayonnaise with crushed garlic mixed into it. Start with 1 crushed clove of garlic and add more to taste.

Light aïoli

If you want to serve aïoli but hesitate on account of all the calories it contains, you might like to use half mayonnaise and half natural yoghurt; or add some garlic to the ricotta mayonnaise and use that instead of full-fat mayonnaise.

Avocado and cream cheese dip v

While classic guacamole contains only avocado, tomatoes, coriander and chilli, this dip has a base of cream cheese – medium or low fat, whichever you choose – and a hint of garlic, Tabasco, lemon juice and wine vinegar. Both dips are delectable. Use vegan cream cheese if you prefer.

SERVES 4–6

250g (9oz) cream cheese

1 garlic clove, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tabasco sauce

2 large, ripe avocados

1 tbsp lemon juice

dash of red wine vinegar

sprinkling of paprika, to garnish

tortilla chips or melba toast, to serve

Mix together the cream cheese, garlic, some salt, pepper and a few drops of Tabasco.

Just before serving, peel and mash the avocados with the lemon juice. Mix with the ricotta. Check the seasoning, adding a dash of wine vinegar.

Spoon the dip onto a plate and sprinkle with paprika to give a nice touch of scarlet against the pale green. Serve with tortilla chips or crisp melba toast.

Baba ganoush v

In this Middle Eastern dip the intense, subtle flavour of the aubergine blends with the rich, earthy taste of the tahini (sesame cream) and the texture is substantial without being heavy. I love it, especially the smoky version, see opposite. It looks beautiful in a shallow bowl, its pale surface swirled with golden-green olive oil. Serve with warm pitta bread, thin crisp flatbread and colourful raw vegetables and olives.

SERVES 4

2 aubergines (about 450g (1lb))

2–3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 heaped tbsp tahini

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 large garlic clove, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

extra olive oil, to swirl

a scattering of toasted sesame seeds

a little chopped flat-leaf parsley

Halve the aubergines, removing the stems. Rub them lightly with a little of the olive oil and place on a baking sheet.

Bake at 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6 for about 25 minutes or until they can be pierced easily with the point of a sharp knife. Cool.

Chop the aubergine flesh as finely as you can, then mix it with all the other ingredients. Alternatively, blend the aubergine, remaining oil, the tahini, lemon juice and garlic together until fairly smooth. Season with salt and pepper, then chill in the fridge.

To serve, spoon the baba ganoush onto a plate or shallow dish, swirl some olive oil over the top and sprinkle with sesame seeds and chopped parsley.

VARIATION

Smoky baba ganoush v

Prick the aubergines in several places, then place under a very hot grill, or on an oven rack placed on top of a gas hob, and char all over until black on the outside and soft inside. This takes about 25–30 minutes (remember to open the kitchen windows!). Cool slightly then scrape off the skin and discard. Blend the aubergine flesh to a pale cream with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the tahini, lemon juice and garlic, a seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Chill in the fridge until required, then serve garnished as described.

Baba ganoush with cumin and pine nuts v

For a spicier version add a large pinch – or more, to taste – of ground cumin to the mixture, either the smoked or unsmoked version, and scatter with some toasted pine nuts along with the chopped parsley.

Baba ganoush with pomegranate v

Make as described, either smoked or unsmoked, and scatter the top with some fresh pomegrate seeds (you won’t need the whole pomegranate) and the chopped parsley.

Aubergine and yoghurt dip

For this rather different, light and creamy version, instead of the tahini and lemon juice, mix the aubergines with 150ml (5fl oz) thick Greek yoghurt and stir in a small bunch of fresh chopped herbs (chives, mint, coriander or dill). You can make this lighter by using low-fat yoghurt or you can increase the richness by adding soured cream.

Butter bean dip with sesame toast v

This is a creamy dip with a tangy flavour. If you use canned beans it’s very quick to make, so it’s a great standby. The dip is excellent served with hot crunchy sesame toast, which is very easy to make.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) dried butter beans, soaked and cooked until tender or 400g can

1 small garlic clove, crushed (optional)

2 tbsp olive oil

2–3 tsp lemon juice or wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tabasco sauce

lemon wedges, to garnish

FOR THE SESAME TOASTS

6 slices wholemeal bread

a little butter or vegan spread

a small handful of sesame seeds

Drain the butter beans, reserving the liquid. Purée the beans in a food processor or blender, adding enough of the reserved liquid to make a thick creamy purée; or mash them with a fork and beat in the liquid.

Stir in the garlic (if using), oil and enough lemon juice or wine vinegar to sharpen the mixture. Season well with salt and pepper and add a few drops of Tabasco. Chill the mixture in the fridge.

Just before you want to serve the dip, make the sesame toasts. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6. Cut the crusts off the bread and roll each slice with a rolling pin to flatten it a bit.

Spread the bread with butter or vegan spread and sprinkle a good layer of sesame seeds on top, pressing them in with a knife. Cut the bread into fingers and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 10–15 minutes or until crisp and golden brown.

Meanwhile, spoon the dip on to small plates or into individual ramekin dishes and garnish each with a wedge of lemon. Serve with the hot sesame toasts.

VARIATION

Butter bean and black olive dip v

Make exactly as in the main recipe, but add 12 black olives, finely chopped, to the finished mixture or add them to the beans before blending.

Butter bean and black olive dip with hardboiled eggs

For this variation, cut four hardboiled eggs into wedges and arrange on six small plates. Spoon the bean and black olive dip on top and sprinkle with a little paprika. Garnish each plate with a few sprigs of watercress and a wedge of lemon.

Cannellini bean, black olive, sun-dried tomato and basil dip v

The flavours of the Mediterranean are in this simple dip, which is quick to whiz up from a can of beans. It’s great served with pieces of raw vegetables or crisps for dipping, spooned on top of some lettuce as a starter, or spread on crackers, pitta bread or crostini.

SERVES 4–6

1 small garlic clove, crushed

400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

juice of lemon

3–4 sun-dried tomatoes, drained if in oil, or soaked in hot water for 30 minutes if dry

8 black olives, pitted

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1–2 sprigs of basil

Put the garlic, beans, lemon juice, tomatoes and olives into a food processor and whiz to a thick purée. Alternatively, put them into a deep container and use an electric hand blender. Season to taste with salt and pepper, pour into a serving bowl and then tear the basil leaves over the top.

Serve with crisp pitta strips and a chunky salad of Little Gem hearts, firm tomatoes and batons of cucumber.

Cream cheese and soured cream dip

An American friend gave me this recipe, which she serves on Thanksgiving Day as a first course. Like the aïoli, it’s superb with a colourful selection of crisp fresh vegetables for dipping into the creamy mixture.

SERVES 6

FOR THE DIP

225g (8oz) low-fat fromage frais or quark

275ml (10fl oz) soured cream

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives

salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE CRUDITÉS

A selection of about 5 different vegetables of contrasting colours, like those described for the aïoli on page 41.

Put the fromage frais or quark into a bowl, beat lightly with a fork, then stir in the soured cream, garlic and chives and mix to a smooth consistency.

Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the dip into a serving dish and chill in the fridge until required.

Arrange the colourful vegetables around the dip and serve.

Feta cheese and herb spread

This spread looks attractive in the centre of a serving dish and surrounded by shiny black olives, whole red radishes, crunchy green spring onions and quartered tomatoes.

SERVES 4

200 (7oz) feta cheese

125g (4oz) unsalted butter, softened

1 tbsp chopped fresh chives

1 tbsp chopped fresh dill

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

a pinch each of paprika and caraway seeds

Drain the feta cheese of any liquid from the packet, and blot with kitchen paper, then mash.

Put the butter into a bowl and beat with a spoon until creamy, then gradually beat in the mashed feta and the herbs and spices.

Chill the spread in the fridge, then serve it as suggested above or use it as a sandwich filling or a topping for savoury biscuits.

Field bean pâté v

This wonderful coarse-textured pâté has a delicious earthy flavour. It’s very economical and good served with fingers of hot wholemeal toast and a tomato salad. You do need a food processor or good blender to chop the beans.

SERVES 4

225g (8oz) dried field beans, soaked and cooked

2 garlic cloves, chopped

a bunch of flat-leaf parsley

4 tsp red wine vinegar

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid. Put the beans, garlic, parsley, vinegar and oil into a food processor or blender and blend thoroughly to break down the skins and make a coarse-textured purée.

Add a little of the bean cooking liquid if necessary to make a consistency like thick whipped cream.

Add salt and pepper to taste, then spoon the mixture into a shallow bowl or pâté dish.

Guacamole v

This is an authentic guacamole, just avocados, tomatos, coriander leaves, chilli and seasoning, and I love it. It’s great for entertaining; you can prepare the tomatoes, coriander and chillies in advance then mash in the avocados at the last minute to preserve their colour. The quantity of chilli is up to you – start with a little piece and gradually add more until it’s hot enough for you.

SERVES 4

4 tomatoes, finely chopped

bunch of coriander, finely chopped

1–3 fresh green chillies, finely chopped

2 large avocados

salt and freshly ground black pepper

tortilla chips, to serve

Mix the tomatoes and coriander together in a bowl. Add a little of the chopped chillies.

Just before serving, remove the peel and stone from each avocado, cut the flesh into rough chunks and add to the bowl. Mash the avocado pieces with the tomato mixture to make a creamy, chunky dip.

Taste and add more chilli gradually, until it’s as you like it, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve within 30–60 minutes.

Haricot bean and garlic spread

This is great in sandwiches or on savoury biscuits. The basic mixture can be varied in a number of ways.

SERVES 4

125g (4 oz) dried haricot beans, soaked and cooked until tender, then cooled, or 400g can, rinsed and drained

25g (1oz) butter, softened

1 garlic clove, crushed

a few drops of lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mash the beans to a smooth paste with a fork, then gradually blend in the butter, garlic and lemon juice. Season well with salt and pepper.

VARIATION

Haricot bean and fresh herb spread

Instead of the garlic add 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley.

Haricot bean and olive spread

Make as described, adding six black olives, pitted and finely chopped or mashed, or 2–3 teaspoons of vegetarian tapenade.

Haricot bean and sundried tomato and basil spread

Make as described and stir in six sun-dried tomatoes, drained and finely chopped, or 2–3 teaspoons sun-dried tomato purée, and 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh basil.

Hazel nut and cream cheese pâté loaf

This easy-to-make loaf may sound unusual but guests who try it always ask for the recipe. Serve it with fresh salad, or in slices as a first course.

SERVES 4–6

50g (2oz) dried breadcrumbs, for coating

250g (9oz) ricotta

125g (4oz) hazel nuts roasted

juice and grated rind of ½ lemon

2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch of paprika

crisp lettuce leaves, slices of tomato or cucumber, grated carrot, sprigs of watercress, to serve

Cut a large square of greaseproof paper and sprinkle the breadcrumbs over.

Put the ricotta, hazel nuts, lemon juice and rind and parsley into a bowl and mix until well combined. Add salt and pepper to taste and 1 or 2 pinches of paprika.

Turn the cream cheese mixture onto the paper on top of the breadcrumbs. Use the paper to form it into a roll, coating it completely with the crumbs.

Leave the roll in the paper and place in the fridge to chill for several hours.

To serve, unwrap the roll and discard the paper. Place on a bed of lettuce and surround with sliced tomato, cucumber, grated carrot, watercress or anything else you fancy. Alternatively, serve in slices on individual plates, on a pool of chilled tomato sauce.

Hummus v

Homemade hummus is much better than the shop-bought versions. You can make it exactly to your taste and if you keep the ingredients in stock, you can whiz some up in moments any time you fancy it.

SERVES 4–6

200g (7oz) dried chickpeas, soaked and cooked or 2 x 400g cans

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1–3 tbsp tahini

2 tbsp lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

extra olive oil, for drizzling

sprinkling of paprika

lemon wedges

handful of black olives

Drain the chickpeas, reserving the liquid. Blend the chickpeas with the garlic, oil and tahini, starting with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and 250ml (8–9fl oz) of the liquid, to make a purée roughly the consistency of lightly whipped cream.

Taste, adding more tahini if you want a more intense flavour. Season with salt and pepper.

Put the hummus into a large shallow dish, drizzle over some olive oil, sprinkle with paprika and garnish with lemon wedges and black olives.

VARIATION

Red pepper hummus

Make as described, using 1 tablespoon of tahini and 2–4 roasted red peppers from a jar. Blend everything together before adding any liquid, because the red peppers add moisture to the mixture. Flavour with 1–2 pinches of paprika and a drop of Tabasco sauce if you want to make it hotter.

Lentil and mushroom pâté

The earthy flavour of both lentils and mushrooms combines to make this satisfying pâté. It can be served piled up on salad leaves or packed into a pâté dish, with some crackers or melba toast.

SERVES 2 AS A MAIN MEAL, 4 AS A STARTER

125g (4oz) dried green lentils or 400g can

50g (2oz) button mushrooms

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2–4 tsp lemon juice

If you’re using dried lentils, cook them in plenty of water until they’re very tender, about 45–50 minutes, then drain. If using canned lentils, simply drain and rinse.

Wipe the mushrooms and chop them up fairly finely.

Heat the oil in a small saucepan and fry the mushrooms and garlic for 2–3 minutes, then remove them from the heat and mix in the lentils and parsley.

Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Chill before serving.

Lentil and tomato spread

Quick-cooking split red lentils are used for this spread. It tastes great in sandwiches with some raw onion, chutney or sliced tomato.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) split red lentils

200ml (7fl oz) water

25g (1oz) butter, softened

1 tbsp tomato purée

a few drops of lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the lentils in the water for 20–30 minutes or until they’re tender and there’s no water left. Leave to cool.

Mash the butter, tomato purée, lemon juice and some salt and black pepper into the cooked lentils. Beat well with a spoon to make a smooth pâté.

VARIATION

Lentil and chive spread

Make this as described but leaving out the tomato purée and adding 1–2 tablespoons of chopped chives instead.

Lentil and parsley spread

Make as described, leaving out the tomato purée and adding 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley. One or two finely chopped spring onions go well in this, too.

Mushroom pâté

This flavoursome pâté makes an excellent starter. Try it with some croûtes or breadsticks.

SERVES 4

15g (oz) dried porcini mushrooms

450g (1lb) mushrooms

1 garlic clove, peeled

2–4 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

25g (1oz) butter or 2 tbsp olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a squeeze of lemon juice

TO SERVE

a little soured cream or crème fraîche

a sprinkling of paprika

sprigs of flat-leaf parsley

Rinse the porcini mushrooms thoroughly to get rid of any grit. Put them in a small bowl, cover with boiling water and leave to soak for 1 hour. Drain and reserve the liquid.

Put the soaked mushrooms and their liquid into a food processor with the ordinary mushrooms, the garlic and the parsley and whiz until everything is finely chopped. Alternatively, roughly slice the mushrooms, then put all the ingredients into a deep bowl and use an electric hand blender.

Heat the butter or oil in a large saucepan and add the mushroom mixture. Stir, then cook, uncovered, for 15–20 minutes or until all liquid has boiled away. Remove the pan from the heat and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Leave to cool. Serve on individual plates with a heaped teaspoon of soured cream or crème fraîche, a sprinkling of paprika and a sprig of parsley on each.

Stilton pâté with walnuts and port

This easy-to-make recipe is perfect at Christmas. Serve it as a starter on individual plates with watercress and a few fresh walnuts, or pile it into a bowl and serve with crackers. Note that the only type of port that is vegetarian is ‘crusted’, a very small category, named because of the ‘crust’ of sediment that forms in the bottle. It is intended to be a more economical alternative to Vintage or Late-bottled Vintage and is made from a blend of several harvests. The date on the label refers to when it was bottled.

SERVES 6

225g (8oz) Stilton cheese

350g (12oz) cream cheese

75g (3oz) butter, softened

3 tbsp ‘crusted’ port

50g (2oz) shelled walnuts, chopped

watercress, to garnish (optional)

crackers or breadsticks, to serve

Grate or crumble the Stilton, place in a bowl with the cream cheese and butter and mix well to a creamy consistency. Stir in the walnuts.

Either spoon the mixture into a small dish and smooth the top, or press it into a fat sausage shape and wrap it in a piece of foil, twisting the two ends like a cracker. Chill in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

Cut the roll into slices to serve, garnished with watercress, or serve from the bowl, with crackers or breadsticks.

Tapenade v

This can be served as part of a selection of starters or dips, or as part of a tapas platter, perhaps with some crunchy salted almonds, celery sticks, radishes and spring onions. The better the olives, the better the flavour. You can use pitted ones if they look good, or buy them intact and pit them yourself (if you don’t have an olive pitter this is an arduous task, however).

SERVES 4–6

300g (11oz) green or black whole olives, or 225g (8oz) pitted olives

3 tbsp capers, drained, or rinsed and drained if preserved in salt

3 garlic cloves, crushed

3 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, stalks removed

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

a squeeze of lemon juice, to taste

a dash of Tabasco sauce (optional)

If using whole olives, remove the pits then purée with capers, garlic and parsley together with an electric hand blender or in a food processor.

Add the oil and blend well again to make a beautiful, thick mixture. Sharpen with a squeeze or two of lemon juice and perhaps a little dash of Tabasco for an extra kick, if you like.

Tzatziki

Creamy yet light and refreshing, this is great as a dip with pieces of pitta bread as part of a tapas selection, along with juicy black olives, stuffed vine leaves (see page xxx), some cherry tomatoes and any anything else you fancy.

SERVES 2–4

cucumber

salt

250g (9oz) thick full-fat Greek yoghurt

1 small garlic clove, crushed

freshly ground black pepper

tsp red or white wine vinegar

1 tbsp chopped fresh mint or chives

Peel the cucumber and grate it coarsely. Put the grated cucumber into a sieve, mix with a pinch or two of salt, then cover with a small plate with a weight on top and leave over a bowl to drain for 30 minutes to draw out the extra liquid. Pat dry on kitchen paper.

Mix the yoghurt, cucumber and garlic together in a bowl, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Put into a serving bowl and scatter with chopped mint or chives. Serve chilled.

Spicy vegetable and nut pâté with yoghurt sauce

Another easy one to make, this pâté consists of crunchy vegetables and nuts, flavoured with curry and garlic.

SERVES 6

25g (1oz) butter

1 onion, finely chopped

1 carrot (about 50g (2oz)), finely chopped

1 stick of celery, chopped

green pepper (about 50g (2oz)), de-seeded and chopped

red pepper (about 50g (2oz)), de-seeded and chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tbsp mild curry powder

125g (4oz) hazel nuts, roasted and chopped

225g (8oz) ricotta cheese

salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE SAUCE

5cm (2in) cucumber

200ml (7fl oz) natural yoghurt

3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint

Line a 450g (1lb) loaf tin with a strip of non-stick baking parchment to cover the base and come up the two narrow sides.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan and fry all the vegetables for 2–3 minutes; they should soften a little, but still be very crunchy.

Add the garlic and curry powder and cook for 1 further minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the rest of the ingredients. Season with salt and pepper.

Spoon the mixture into the prepared loaf tin – it won’t fill it – and smooth the top. Cover with foil and chill in the fridge for several hours.

Meanwhile make the sauce. Peel and finely chop the cucumber and mix with the yoghurt and mint. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve, slip a knife round the edges of the pâté to loosen it, then turn it out of the tin and cut into slices. Place one slice on each plate with some of the sauce on the side.

Bruschetta v

Bruschette are easy to do and make a great snack, starter or canapé. The bases can be made in advance – they will keep for a week wrapped in foil or in an airtight container – and topped just before serving, so that they stay crisp. Choose up to four of the suggested toppings opposite.

FOR THE BASES

1 baguette, cut diagonally into 1cm (in) slices

olive oil, for brushing

Pre-heat the oven to 150°C (300°F), gas mark 2.

Brush the bread on each side with olive oil, place on a baking sheet and bake for about 20 minutes or until crisp. Alternatively, you can grill the bread on both sides, or toast it in a toaster first and then brush it with the oil.

Unless I’m just making one or two for a quick snack, I prefer to do them in the oven because it’s easier and they become really crisp and dry. This also means that you can make them in advance as described above.

VARIATION

Garlic bruschetta v

Rub both sides of the grilled or toasted bread with the cut surface of a garlic clove.

Herb bruschetta v

Use rosemary (or other herb) bread to make the bruschetta; or, if you’re using a plain baguette, sprinkle each piece on both sides with a good pinch of crushed rosemary or dried thyme. Cook as described.

Barbecue bruschetta v

Bruschette are great cooked over the barbecue: lay the bread on the grid, cook until crisp and striped with black, then turn the slices over and cook the other side. Have toppings and garnishes laid out ready for people to help themselves.

Crostini v

These are really just smaller, thinner versions of bruschetta with more delicate toppings. Use the slimmest baguette you can find. I usually cut this straight, into circles, rather than diagonally.

Toppings for bruschetta and crostini

Remember that people will be eating these with their fingers, so make sure that the toppings aren’t too runny, and that there is something on top of the base for the pieces to stick to, so they don’t fall off.

Butter bean dip v or drained cannellini beans mashed with garlic and vinaigrette and garnished with black olives.

Tapenade v, bought or homemade garnished with flat-leaf parsley.

Hummus v, bought or homemade, cooked asparagus tips and sesame seeds.

Aubergine and sesame pâté v or baba ganoush garnished with black olives.

Smooth goat’s cheese topped with red onion marmalade.

Mashed blue cheese, cubes of beetroot and sprigs of dill.

Cooked chestnuts (canned or vacuum-packed) mashed to a coarse paste with butter, garlic, lemon juice and salt and pepper, then topped with caperberries.

Finely chopped tomato and torn basil leaves v mixed with olive oil, crushed garlic, salt and pepper.

Garlic and herb cream cheese with chargrilled artichoke hearts (from the deli or a jar).

Lentil and mushroom pâté v topped with grilled red and yellow pepper strips and thyme leaves.

Hummus, bought or homemade, rocket, small cubes of feta cheese, sun-blush (semi-dried) tomatoes and a few pine nuts.

Sandwiches and wraps
Avocado salad v

This is nice on lightly toasted Granary or walnut bread. Mash a medium avocado, adding a squeeze of lemon juice to preserve the colour, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread it over the bread. Add any salad leaves or fresh herbs you fancy – tender lettuce, fresh coriander, rocket, chopped spring onions – and press the slices of bread together gently but firmly.

Brie and peach chutney

Make this as described for stilton and cranberry for a lighter, more summery sandwich. It’s good made in a baguette which has had some of the middle scooped out.

Falafels in pitta v

Fill a pitta bread with chopped lettuce, add some whole or sliced falafels and any other salad you fancy, such as sliced cucumber, spring onion, tomatoes and a few sprigs of coriander. Drizzle with a tablespoonful of tahini that you’ve mixed with water and a dash of lemon juice until smooth and creamy, or with tzatziki, yoghurt dip or mayonnaise thinned with water.

Goat’s cheese and red onion

This is made with the smooth, creamy goat’s cheese that looks like cream cheese. Spread it on your bread – whatever type you fancy (I like raisin and rosemary) top with some very thin slices of red onion, and press the slices together.

Greek salad in pitta bread

Make a Greek salad as described on page 90, or just quickly put together some chopped cucumber, tomato and onion, with some feta cheese, a squeeze of lemon juice, a few black olives, a drop or two of olive oil, and pile into a pitta pocket. So good!

Grilled Mediterranean vegetables and pesto v

Slice a selection of vegetables, such as courgette, aubergine, red onion and red pepper, into bite-sized pieces, brush with olive oil and put under the grill for about 10 minutes on each side or until tender and lightly browned, or save some from a previous meal. Mix with pesto and pile into a scooped-out baguette or roll them up in a wrap. You could also add some chickpeas, cubes of feta or some bought or homemade hummus, to increase the protein content.

Hummus, coriander and black olive v

You can use pitta bread for this, or slices of whatever type of bread you like. The most important thing is to put in a generous filling of creamy bought or homemade hummus with sliced, pitted olives and some chopped fresh coriander.

Mexican wrap v

Use leftover refried red beans, if you have them; otherwise fry an onion in olive oil for 10 minutes, then mash into it the drained contents of a 400g can of red kidney beans, a chopped tomato and chilli powder to taste. Spread onto a tortilla wrap, top with any of the following: chopped avocado or guacamole, vegan or dairy soured cream, grated vegan or dairy cheese and chopped coriander. Roll up neatly, making sure everything is enclosed.

Ploughman’s

On the same theme as the two previous suggestions, but use your choice of British hard cheese – a good strong Cheddar or a crumbly Wensleydale, for instance – and a sweet-and-sour pickle.

Stilton and cranberry

For a luxurious winter sandwich, butter two slices of granary or walnut bread. Place a round lettuce on one slice, top with slices of Stilton and cranberry sauce, finish with another lettuce leaf, and press together with the second slice.

Tomato, mozzarella and olive

Brush a panini or half-size ciabatta with olive oil and fill with sliced tomato and mozzarella, then add some lovely green basil leaves and pitted black olives. This is good with sliced avocado, too.

Parsley pinwheels

I love making and eating these! They look irresistible, like slices from miniature savoury Swiss rolls, and are an attractive addition to a sandwich selection. Fresh springy bread that’s not too thin works best, such as an ordinary, medium-sliced white or wholemeal loaf.

MAKES 25 PINWHEELS

60g (2 oz) soft butter

2 tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1–2 tsp hot water

5 slices from a large sliced loaf of bread

Beat the butter, parsley and hot water together in a bowl to make a light, creamy mixture.

Cut the crusts off the bread and flatten each slice slightly with a rolling pin. Spread the bread generously with the green butter mixture, then roll the slices up like Swiss rolls and if possible chill them for an hour or so.

When ready to serve, cut each roll into about five fairly thin slices.

VARIATION

Pâté or hummus pinwheels

These are lovely made with Swiss vegetable pâté, which you can buy in tubes at health-food shops. Use white bread for these pinwheels, for a good colour contrast. Alternatively, use bought or homemade hummus; same colour, different flavour.

Asparagus rolls

These are very retro, but I’ve always loved them: tender asparagus wrapped in buttery wholemeal bread; what’s not to like?

MAKES ABOUT 40 ROLLS

1 sliced wholemeal loaf

softened butter, for spreading

225g (8oz) asparagus, cooked and drained

Cut the crusts from the bread and roll each slice with a rolling pin to make it thinner and more flexible.

Butter the bread. Put one spear of asparagus on each slice and roll the bread around the asparagus. Cut each roll into pieces so that they are ‘bite-sized’. Cover and keep in a cool place until needed.

Asparagus and cheese on toast

Asparagus from a can may be a pale shadow of fresh asparagus, but it has its own charms, including tasting great on toast.

SERVES 1–2

small (400g) can asparagus

125g (4oz) grated cheese

2 pieces of hot toast

Drain the asparagus and place on the toast.

Pile the grated cheese on top and place under a hot grill for 3–5 minutes or until the cheese is golden brown and bubbly. Serve at once.

Avocado toast v

My favourite! I love this combination of buttery, creamy avocado and crisp wholemeal toast.

SERVES 2

1 large avocado

juice of lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2–4 slices of hot wholemeal toast

a dusting of chilli powder (optional)

Peel, stone and thinly slice (or mash) the avocado, then sprinkle with lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

Place, or spread, the avocado slices on the toast, dust lightly with chilli powder if you’re using this, and serve at once while the toast is still warm and crisp.

Melba toast v

This sounds a bit retro – indeed, it is retro – but I enjoy both making and eating it, and often find it just the perfect thing to accompany creamy dips. It’s best to use bought sliced bread to make it as it’s easier to cut. People always eat more of this than you think they will, so make plenty!

1–2 slices of ready-sliced bread, white or wholemeal, for each person

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6.

Toast the bread, then lay the pieces of toast flat on a board and, using a sharp knife and a sawing motion, cut the toast in half horizontally, so you end up with two very thin slices, each toasted on one side.

Place the toast halves, uncooked side uppermost, on a baking sheet and bake for about 7–10 minutes, until they are crisp and brown all over, and curling up at the edges. Leave to cool. Store in an airtight container or foil for up to one week.

Mushrooms on toast

Always a winner, you can’t go wrong with tender, buttery baby mushrooms on crisp toast.

SERVES 2

450g (1lb) button mushrooms

1 tbsp olive oil

25g (1oz) butter

2–4 large slices toast, white or wholemeal

salt and freshly ground black pepper

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Wipe the mushrooms, then slice and fry lightly in the oil and butter.

Just before the mushrooms are done, toast the bread.

Season the mushrooms with salt and pepper, then spoon them directly on top of the toast (no need to butter it), together with all their lovely juices. Sprinkle with a little chopped parsley and serve at once.

VARIATION

Garlic mushrooms on toast

Make as described, cooking 1–2 crushed large garlic cloves with the mushrooms.

Hummus on toast with vine tomatoes v

Quick, easy and so good!

SERVES 2

125g (4oz) hummus, bought or homemade or

2–4 large slices of wholemeal toast

2–4 tresses of cherry tomatoes on the vine

Spread the hummus on the toast – no need to butter it first – and heat through under the grill.

Put the tresses of cherry tomatoes under the grill too for a few minutes until lightly roasted, then place one tress on each piece of toast and serve.

VARIATION

Swiss vegetable pâté and tomato toast v

Swiss vegetable pâté is a smooth, savoury spead that you can buy in a tube at health-food shops. My family have always liked it in sandwiches and on toast. Just squeeze it straight onto the toast, instead of the hummus, heat through under the grill and top with the tomatoes, as described.

Tomato and cheese on toast

This couldn’t be simpler, yet makes a lovely hot snack, rather like a very simple pizza.

SERVES 2

4 slices wholemeal bread

1–2 tbsp olive oil

4 tomatoes, skinned or not, as you wish

125g (4oz) grated cheese

Toast the bread and brush one side (or both sides, if you like) with olive oil.

Slice the tomatoes thinly and arrange on top of the toast, then scatter the cheese evenly on top of that.

Put the toast under a hot grill for 4–5 minutes or until the cheese is golden brown and bubbling and the tomatoes are heated through and slightly softened. Serve at once.

Garlic bread

Hot garlic bread is unfailingly popular and really easy to make. You can also prepare it, ready for popping in the oven, ahead of time, and even freeze it (before baking).

SERVES 4–6

1 baguette or 1 small wholemeal loaf

3–4 garlic cloves

salt

125g (4oz) butter, softened

Set the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6. Slice the baguette or wholemeal loaf three-quarters of the way through into chunky slices – they should just hold together at the base. Cut the wholemeal loaf right through into thin slices.

Make the garlic butter by crushing the peeled cloves in a little salt, then mixing into the butter. Spread this butter on both sides of each slice of bread. Push the bread back into the original shape, then wrap in foil and place on a baking sheet in the oven. Bake for about 20 minutes or until it’s heated right through and crisp on the outside. Serve at once.

VARIATION

Quick garlic bread for one or two

Spread some slices of bread with garlic butter made using a small clove of garlic (as described). Grill them, without any foil covering them, until the butter has melted and the bread is crisp round the edges.

Hot garlic chickpeas in pitta bread v

These sizzling hot, garlicky chickpeas make a wonderful snack; it’s hard to stop eating them straight out of the pan! They’re great packed into a pitta pocket, along with anything else you fancy – such as sliced tomato, onion, chopped mint, a spoonful of mayonnaise or yoghurt, or some sweet chutney.

SERVES 4

2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained

a little self-raising wholemeal flour, to coat

salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tbsp olive oil

2–4 garlic cloves, crushed

TO SERVE

4 warm wholemeal pitta breads

any of the optional extras mentioned above

Spread the chickpeas out on a large plate and sprinkle with the flour and a little salt and pepper. Turn them gently so that each one is coated with flour.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan, then add the chickpeas and garlic. Fry the chickpeas gently until they are crisp and golden, turning often. You may need to do them in more than one batch.

Slit open the top of each pitta bread, fill with the hot chickpeas and any extras you are adding, and serve.

Quick pitta bread pizza

These quick pizzas taste surprisingly like the ‘real thing’, yet can be whizzed up in moments.

SERVES 2

2 wholemeal pitta breads

6 tbsp tomato purée

1–2 tbsp finely chopped onion

1 tsp dried oregano

1 tbsp olive oil

½–1 tsp sugar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tomatoes, thinly sliced

a few button mushrooms (optional), thinly sliced

125g (4oz) torn mozzarella or grated Cheddar cheese

a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of dried oregano and a few olives (optional), to garnish

Cut the pitta breads open and separate the two halves. Put these on a baking sheet that will fit under your grill.

Mix together the tomato purée, chopped onion, oregano, oil and adding sugar, salt and pepper to taste.

Spread each pitta bread half with the tomato purée mixture.

Arrange the tomato slices on top to cover the surface and add a few thin slices of raw mushroom (if using), or any other ingredients you want – such as sweetcorn, thin strips of red pepper, artichoke hearts and olives – and sprinkle the cheese all over the top.

Place under a hot grill for 5–6 minutes or until the top is golden brown and bubbling. Serve at once.

Quick ciabatta pizza

Ciabatta bread, split in half, makes a wonderfully light and crispy base for a quick pizza. A packet of half-size ciabattas is best, making one pizza each for four people once the ciabattas have been split in half; alternatively, cut a normal-size ciabatta into four. Do use good-quality canned tomatoes – they reduce to a delicious thick sauce far quicker than economy versions. Keep some ciabattas in the freezer and some canned tomatoes in the cupboard and you’ll never be stuck for a tasty quick meal again!

SERVES 4

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

400g can chopped tomatoes in juice

tsp dried oregano

2 half-size ciabatta breads, or 1 normal-size ciabatta

salt and freshly ground black pepper

125g (4oz) grated Cheddar cheese or torn mozzarella

a handful of pitted green olives

Sauté the onion in 1 tablespoon of oil for 5 minutes, covered, then add the tomatoes and oregano. Simmer, without a lid on the pan, for about 10 minutes or until thick.

Meanwhile, slice the bread in half lengthways. Put the pieces on a grill pan or baking sheet and grill on both sides until just crisp; don’t let them get really brown.

Brush the toasted bread lightly all over with the rest of the olive oil and place, cutside up, on the grill pan or baking sheet.

Season the tomato sauce with salt and pepper, then spread it over the top of the ciabatta halves, dividing it between them. Scatter with the grated cheese and put the olives on top.

Place under the hot grill for about 7 minutes or until the sides of the pizzas are crisp and the cheese is melted and golden brown. Serve at once.

Iced banana smoothie v

If you freeze chunks of banana and then whiz them with freshly squeezed orange juice, the result is a wonderful, thick smoothie, almost like a completely natural ice cream shake.

MAKES 1 X 250ML (10FL OZ) GLASS

1 banana, peeled

200ml (7fl oz) freshly squeezed orange juice (using about 3 oranges)

Peel the banana and cut into roughly 2cm (1in) chunks, then freeze until solid.

To make the smoothie, put the frozen banana chunks into a blender or food processor with the orange juice, and whiz to a pale, thick cream. Serve at once.

Fruit cup with vermouth v

This lovely fruit cup, which a friend of mine serves as an aperitif, is beautifully refreshing and great for drinking in the garden in the summer. All you do is mix together equal quantities of well-chilled apple juice, orange juice and white vermouth. Then add a few sprigs of fresh mint and a few slices of orange, lemon and/or cucumber, as available. You can use either still apple juice or a sparkling one if you want some bubbles.

Fresh peppermint tea v

This is the most refreshing way to end a meal, and good for the digestion if you’ve overindulged. You can use real peppermint, or spearmint, the variety most commonly grown in gardens and available in shops. It’s less intense than peppermint.

MAKES 1 POTFUL

a large bunch of peppermint or spearmint

boiling water

Cram the mint into a large tea pot or cafetière and fill to the top with boiling water.

Leave to stand for 4–5 minutes, then pour. If you’re using a cafetière you can push down the handle, separating the mint leaves from the water, as you would with coffee, but a teapot works fine too. You can top it up again with more boiling water if you wish.

Lassi v

This drink from India is refreshing in hot weather, but also nourishing because of the protein and calcium in the yoghurt. It can be made salty or sweet, according to taste.

SERVES 1

1 heaped tbsp natural yoghurt or vegan yoghurt

200ml (7fl oz) chilled water

a pinch of salt, or 1–2 tsp clear honey and a pinch of cinnamon, or a few drops of triple-strength rose water

Put the yoghurt into a glass and gradually stir in the water. Add the salt or honey and cinnamon or rose water.

Strawberry bliss in a glass v

This is the most wonderful fruit smoothie, sweet and delectable. The more powerful your blender, the smoother and better this will be. If you really love smoothies, you may find it worth investing in a good-quality, high-speed machine.

MAKES 1–2 LARGE GLASSES

1 sweet orange, peeled and cut into rough chunks

1 banana, peeled and roughly sliced

1 thick slice of fresh pineapple, peeled and cut into chunks

225g (8oz) strawberries, hulled (or leave unhulled if organic)

a small bunch of sweet red grapes

a cup of ice

Put all the ingredients into a high-speed blender and process until thick and smooth. If adding everything at once is a bit too much for your blender to handle, start with the oranges and use chilled water instead of ice, to get things moving. Drink as soon as possible.

VARIATION

Blackberry bliss in a glass v

The flavour of late summer! Use 225g (8oz) juicy ripe blackberries instead of the strawberries.

Blueberry bliss in a glass v

Deep purple, delicious and wonderful (so they say) for keeping those brain cells lively and youthful, blueberries make a great smoothie. Add 225g (8oz) of them instead of the strawberries.

Pomegranate bliss in a glass v

Leave out the strawberries and instead pop the juicy red seeds out of 1 large pomegranate by cutting it in half then bending back each half to release the seeds, dislodging them with the aid of a small pointed knife. Add the pomegranate seeds to the blender along with the other fruit and whiz until completely smooth.

Green bliss in a glass v

Try adding a good handful of baby spinach leaves to any of these smoothies. You won’t taste the spinach – it will be just like a fruit smoothie – but you’ll notice the extra, sustained energy that the green leaves give you. A green smoothie must be one of the most health-giving drinks on the planet. You can use other dark green leaves too; kale, for instance. Start with a few leaves and add more once you get used to the flavour.

Yoghurt and orange smoothie v

This is calming, revitalising and quick to make.

MAKES ABOUT ONE 250ML (9FL OZ) GLASS

1 orange, peeled

150ml (5fl oz) natural yoghurt or vegan yoghurt

a little clear honey (optional)

Break the orange into segments and place in blender. Add the yoghurt, then whizz for 30–60 seconds or until fairly smooth, adding a little honey to taste, if you like. There will still be some chunky pieces of orange, but these give the drink ‘body’ and provide extra fibre.

Sauces and relishes

A sauce can provide the perfect finishing touch to a dish; it can make the difference between ordinary and exceptional and transform some of your favourite dishes into something really special.

In this chapter you’ll find many easy sauces and relishes that can accompany a variety of dishes – try some tangy Béarnaise with crispy aubergine fritters or creamy mushroom and Marsala sauce with tofu escalopes. You’ll also find many reliable classics – tomato sauce for pizza and delicious hollandaise. The good news is that they are all simple to make. Plus, if you’re in a hurry, my ultra-easy blender béchamel sauces will turn a simple dish of steamed vegetables into a main course with just a topping of breadcrumbs, a scattering of grated cheese and a flash under a hot grill.

Apple sauce

You can use cooking apples, which cook to a lovely, soft, fluffy purée, or sweet eating apples, which require less sugar. Either way, the result is a pleasant, fruity sauce that goes well with lentil loaf or pease pudding.

SERVES 4–6

450g (1lb) apples

4 tbsp water

4 tbsp sugar

15g (½oz) butter

salt

Peel and core the apples, then cut them into smallish pieces.

Put the apple pieces, water, sugar and butter into a medium-sized heavy-based saucepan and cook gently, with a lid on the pan, until the apples are soft.

Season with a little salt, then mash the mixture slightly with a wooden spoon to break up the apple. (Or you can blend it if you prefer a smoother consistency.)

VARIATION

Apple and cranberry sauce

For this version, cook 125g (4oz) fresh cranberries, washed and picked over, with the apples. You’ll need to add more sugar as cranberries are very sharp.

Apple and redcurrant sauce

Use redcurrants instead of the cranberries or just soften the apples in 2 rounded tablespoons of redcurrant (or cranberry) jelly and leave out the sugar.

Blender Béarnaise sauce

This is a quick version of the classic rich French sauce. First, you reduce the vinegar in a saucepan to concentrate the flavour, then add it to the egg yolks in a blender and pour in the melted butter. It only takes a few minutes to make and is superb with dishes such as lentil and mushroom burgers or cashew and dill fritters. A pleasant variation is to stir 125g (4oz) of fromage frais into the finished sauce – this lightens it and makes enough to serve eight people.

SERVES 6

125g (4oz) butter

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

1 tbsp very finely chopped onion 8 peppercorns, lightly crushed

2 egg yolks

1 tbsp lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a small saucepan.

Heat the vinegar, onion and peppercorns together in another small pan until the vinegar has reduced by half.

Put the egg yolks and lemon juice into a blender and purée until just creamy, then strain in the vinegar mixture and blend again.

With the blender still going, slowly pour the melted butter in. As you do so, the mixture will thicken to a beautiful creamy consistency.

Season with salt and pepper and serve while still warm. If you need to keep it warm, transfer it to a bowl and stand in a saucepan or roasting tin of boiling water.

Quick blender béchamel sauce

This is a labour-saving way to make béchamel sauce and tastes just as good as the traditional version (see the cheese sauce). Parsley sauce is particularly easy when made by this method because you don’t have to chop the parsley; simply pop the sprigs into the blender with everything else.

SERVES 4

25g (1oz) butter

25g (1oz) plain flour

275–425ml (10–15fl oz) milk

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the butter, flour and milk into the blender, then add about ½ teaspoon of salt and a good grinding of black pepper.

Blend at high speed for a few seconds to break up the butter and mix everything together. There will be some lumpy bits of butter, but that doesn’t matter.

Pour the mixture into a medium-sized saucepan and place over a moderate heat. Stir the sauce until it has thickened, then turn down the heat and leave to simmer gently for 15 minutes.

Lengthy simmering, to avoid a raw, floury taste, is particularly important with this method because there has been no initial cooking of the flour, as in traditional sauce-making.

VARIATION

Celery sauce

3–4 tablespoons of very finely chopped celery and ½ teaspoon of celery salt can be added to the sauce after blending and simmered until tender.

Cheese sauce

Add 125g (4oz) grated cheese after the sauce has cooked.

Egg sauce

Add three very finely chopped hardboiled eggs and a pinch of mace to the basic sauce.

Fennel sauce

Add 2–3 tablespoons of very finely chopped fennel bulb to the sauce before simmering.

Green herb sauce

Use 1–2 tablespoons of very finely chopped fresh green herbs (whatever is available), and add just before serving.

Lemon sauce

Add some finely grated lemon rind and juice to the basic white sauce. You can intensify the colour with a pinch of turmeric.

Mushroom sauce

This is good with vegetables and for serving with pasta and gnocchi. To make it, wash and finely slice 125g (4oz) button mushrooms, fry them in a little butter for a minute or two, then add them to the sauce.

Mustard sauce

Add 1 tablespoons of French mustard and a little lemon juice to the sauce after cooking.

Onion sauce

Another useful variation, good when you want to add more flavour to a dish. Peel and finely chop an onion, then fry it in the butter before blending with the other ingredients. Try flavouring with a pinch of ground cloves.

Parsley sauce

Add sprigs of parsley into the blender with the other ingredients at the beginning of the process.

Watercress sauce

Add ½–1 bunch of finely chopped watercress to the sauce, or add unchopped watercress to the sauce and blend it.

Vegan béchamel sauce v

Use vegan margarine instead of butter, and soya milk.

Bread sauce

One of the delights of Christmas dinner, and it’s every bit as good with a vegetarian main course as it is with a meat one.

SERVES 4–6

1 onion 3 cloves

275ml (10fl oz) milk or unsweetened soya milk

1 bay leaf

2 large slices of fresh white bread, crusts removed

15g (½oz) butter

1–2 tbsp double cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Put the onion, studded with the cloves, into a saucepan and add the milk and the bay leaf.

Bring to the boil, then take off the heat, add the slices of bread, cover and leave to one side for 15–30 minutes for the flavours to infuse.

Remove the onion and bay leaf, beat the mixture to break up the bread and stir in the butter and cream, adding salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

If you are making the sauce in advance, you can put back the onion and bay leaf once you have beaten it smooth; they will continue to flavour the sauce until you’re ready to reheat and serve it.

Cheese sauce

Cheese sauce is useful both for incorporating into other dishes before baking or grilling, and for serving with vegetables to make them into more of a meal. It’s worth using a strongly flavoured cheese, and you can boost the flavour with a good seasoning of mustard, cayenne and freshly ground black pepper. Unsweetened soya milk makes a particularly good, creamy sauce and Double Gloucester gives it a pretty colour.

MAKES 275ML (10FL OZ)

25g (1oz) butter

25g (1oz) plain flour

1 bay leaf

275–425ml (10–15fl oz) milk or unsweetened soya milk

50g (2oz) grated cheese – Cheddar or Double Gloucester

1 tsp mustard powder

cayenne pepper

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook for a few seconds or until the flour bubbles round the edges, then add the bay leaf, turn up the heat and pour in about one-third of the milk or soya milk.

Stir hard until the sauce is very thick and smooth, then repeat the process twice with the remaining milk so that you finish with a thick pouring consistency.

Take the pan off the heat and beat in the grated cheese, mustard, a tiny pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt and pepper to taste. Don’t let the sauce get too hot once the cheese has been added or it may go stringy and spoil.

Cranberry sauce v

This rich, thick red sauce with a tangy flavour is a delight. Although you can find jars of cranberry sauce and jelly in any supermarket, it’s much nicer to make your own from lovely juicy cranberries. It’s delicious with white nut roast with parsley stuffing or chestnut pâté en croûte as part of a Christmas dinner. It keeps well in the fridge for 3–4 weeks.

SERVES 8

225g (8oz) fresh cranberries

150ml (5fl oz) water

175g (6 oz) caster sugar

Sort out the cranberries by removing any bruised ones and taking off any little stems. Wash the berries and put them into a saucepan with the water.

Cook gently until the berries begin to ‘pop’ and are tender – 7–10 minutes on a high heat.

Add the sugar and simmer for 5 minutes or until the sauce is glossy.

VARIATION

Gooseberry sauce v

This, too, is delicious with many nut and pulse dishes. Make in the same way, using just 4 tablespoons of water, then blend. You probably won’t need as much sugar.

Cucumber raita

This refreshing yoghurt dish is perfect with curries, lentil croquettes and bhajis.

SERVES 4–6

½ cucumber, peeled and diced

salt

275ml (10fl oz) natural yoghurt

½ green chilli, deseeded and chopped (optional)

Put the cucumber into a sieve set over a bow, sprinkle with salt, cover with a small plate with a weight on top and leave for 30 minutes to draw out excess water. Then rinse, squeeze and pat dry the cucumber with kitchen paper.

Mix the cucumber with the yoghurt and chilli.

VARIATION

Cucumber and mint raita

Make as described, adding 2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint.

Cucumber and coriander raita

Make as described, adding 2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander.

Vegetarian gravy v

Easy to make and delicious. Try it with toad-in-the-hole and easy creamy mash or with lentil loaf.

MAKES ABOUT 425ML (JUST OVER 15FL OZ)

1 onion, chopped

1½ tbsp rapeseed or olive oil

25g (1oz) plain flour

1 garlic clove, crushed

425ml (15fl oz) water

vegetable bouillon, stock cube or powder (optional)

1 tsp yeast extract

1–2 tsp dark soy sauce

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fry the onion in the oil for 10 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and, stirring all the time, let it brown over the heat.

Add all the remaining ingredients. Bring to the boil and leave to simmer for 10 minutes. If you like a smooth gravy, strain or blend. Season to taste and serve.

Classic hollandaise sauce

A rich, special-occasion sauce that is wonderful with asparagus, artichokes or salsify. This is the traditional method of making it, with a whisk in a bowl over a pan of hot water. It can also be made quickly in a blender or food processor.

SERVES 6

1–2 tsp lemon juice

1 tbsp cold water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 egg yolks

125g (4oz) butter, diced

Mix together 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice, water and some salt and pepper in a double saucepan or a bowl set over a pan of hot water (don’t let the water boil).

Beat in the egg yolks, then whisk in a quarter of the butter, beating until the butter has melted and is beginning to thicken.

Add the rest of the butter in three batches, beating well between each batch. Add a little more lemon juice if you wish.

Quick blender hollandaise

This gorgeous sauce is easy to make if you use a blender. Make it just before you want to eat it.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) butter, diced

1 tbsp lemon juice

2 egg yolks

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a small saucepan then bring to the boil.

Whiz the lemon juice and egg yolks in a blender until pale and thick, then, with the machine still running, pour in the boiling melted butter and whiz for a further minute. Season with salt and a pinch of pepper and serve at once.

Lemon lentil sauce v

This creamy, smooth lentil sauce that turn a plate of steamed or roasted vegetables into a complete meal. For spicier lentil sauces see the lentil dals on page 194.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) red lentils

575ml (1 pint) water

1 onion

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp curry powder

juice and grated rind of 1 lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Simmer the lentils in the water until tender – about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel and chop the onion and sauté gently in the oil with the curry powder for 10 minutes.

Add the lemon juice and grated rind a little at a time, until it tastes right to you.

Liquidise or blend the sauce, season well with salt and pepper and serve.

Mint sauce v

Sharp-tasting yet sweet as well, mint sauce complements many lentil and bean dishes such as field bean burgers, lentil croquettes or white nut roast.

SERVES 4–6

25g (1oz) chopped fresh mint

1 tbsp sugar

1 tbsp boiling water

4 tbsp cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

If you’ve got a liquidiser or hand blender, just wash the mint leaves and take off any stalks, then whiz with the other ingredients until the mint is finely chopped. Pour into a jug to serve.

If you’d rather make the sauce by hand, finely chop the mint leaves, then put them into a bowl. Add the sugar, water and vinegar and mix well.

Mushroom and Marsala sauce

Rich, creamy and luxurious, this adds a gourmet touch to any meal. Try it with cashew nut and parsley fritters, tofu escalopes or lentil croquettes.

SERVES 4

25g (1oz) butter

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp finely chopped onion

250g (9oz) chestnut mushrooms, sliced

1 tsp plain flour

125ml (4fl oz) Marsala

200ml (7fl oz) crème fraîche

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, cover and cook gently for 2–3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 4–5 minutes, until they are tender.

Add the flour and stir over the heat for a minute or two, then pour in the Marsala and let the mixture bubble away over the heat for 3–4 minutes, or longer if you want to reduce it more. Stir in the crème fraîche, adding salt and pepper to taste. Reheat gently, then serve.

Mushroom and soured cream sauce

This is a creamy fresh-tasting sauce that’s best served warm and is delicious with nut or pulse savouries, burgers and also with plainly cooked vegetables.

SERVES 4–6

15g (½oz) butter

125g (4oz) button mushrooms, chopped

150ml (5fl oz) soured cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch of paprika

Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan and fry the mushrooms for about 5 minutes.

Stir in the soured cream and salt, pepper and a little paprika to taste.

Reheat gently, but don’t let the sauce boil.

Red onion marmalade v

Sweet and tangy, this goes with so many things and is so good you can even eat it as it is. It makes a great topping for bruschetta and keeps well in the fridge for a week or so.

SERVES 4–8

1kg (2¼lb) red onions, thinly sliced

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp golden caster sugar

3 tbsp fino sherry

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the onions, cover and cook, stirring every 5 minutes, for about 15 minutes or until they’re very tender. They must be really soft before you go on to the next stage.

Add the sugar, sherry and vinegar, then leave to simmer gently, without a lid, for about 30 minutes or until you have a thick, sticky mixture with hardly any liquid left. Remove from the heat, season to taste with salt and pepper and leave to cool. Store in a covered container in the fridge for about a week.

Red wine sauce

This sauce always makes a meal taste special. You can use either an inexpensive wine, or some extra of whatever you’re having with the meal. Try this with the chestnut, sage and red wine loaf.

SERVES 6

425ml (15fl oz) vegetable stock

425ml (15fl oz) red wine

1 bay leaf

a piece of onion

1 garlic clove, finely sliced

a pinch of dried thyme

5 tsp black peppercorns

2–3 parsley stalks

1 tbsp redcurrant jelly

salt and freshly ground black pepper

40g (1½oz) butter, softened

20g (¾oz) plain flour

Put the stock and red wine into a saucepan with the bay leaf, onion, garlic, thyme, peppercorns and parsley stalks and bring to the boil. Let the mixture bubble away for 10–15 minutes so that the amount of liquid reduces to half. Strain into a clean saucepan and mix in the redcurrant jelly and some salt and pepper.

Next make a beurre manié: simply mash half the butter with the flour to make a paste and add this, in small pieces, to the still-warm sauce, mixing well after you’ve added each piece. This is an easy, foolproof way to thicken a sauce.

Put the sauce back over the heat and stir it until it has thickened slightly.

Let the sauce simmer gently for a few minutes to cook the flour. Check the seasoning again and beat the remaining butter into the sauce just before serving to make it look glossy and appetizing.

Tip

If you want to prepare the sauce in advance, after you’ve added the beurre manié and simmered the sauce for a few minutes, take it off the heat and dot the remaining butter over the top of the sauce to prevent a skin forming. When you’re ready to eat, heat the sauce gently and stir the butter in.

Salsa v

Zingy and refreshing, this perks up so many dishes and can be made several hours in advance. Add the chilli to taste – either cautiously if you’re unsure or generously for hardened chilli lovers.

SERVES 4–8

4 tomatoes, fairly finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

4 spring onions, chopped

2 tbsp chopped red onion

1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped

2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

1 tbsp lime juice

½ tsp salt

Just mix everything together and set aside until you are ready to serve. If you have time, leave to stand for a while to bring out all the flavours.

Satay sauce v

This is a gorgeous tangy, creamy, protein-rich sauce that you can whip up in a moment. You can serve it with the deep-fried salt and pepper tofu, or with cubes of fried smoked tofu; it’s also fabulous in the cauliflower satay. I like to use good-quality pure peanut butter, but you could also use cashew or almond butter if you like. You can find jars of tamarind and vegetarian Thai red curry paste (i.e. not containing fish) in large supermarkets.

SERVES 3–4

3 tbsp smooth peanut butter

5 tbsp coconut milk

1 tbsp tamarind

1 tbsp Thai red curry paste

Put the peanut butter into a small mixing bowl and gradually stir in the coconut milk, tamarind and curry paste to make a smooth cream. Transfer the sauce to a small serving bowl to serve.

Soured cream and herb sauce

This sauce is served cold, but can accompany both hot and cold dishes.

MAKES 275ML (10FL OZ)

150ml (5fl oz) soured cream

150ml (5fl oz) natural yoghurt

2 tbsp chopped fresh herbs, (e.g.flat-leaf parsley, chives, tarragon, thyme)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Simply mix everything together and season to taste.

VARIATION

Horseradish sauce

Make as described, leaving out the herbs and flavouring with 2–3 teaspoons of grated horseradish and 1–2 teaspoons of red wine vinegar. This is even nicer if you add a little mayonnaise, or replace 2 tablespoons of the yoghurt with 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise. This is wonderful with walnut pâté en croûte.

Tartare sauce

This tangy sauce can be made in moments and is a great way of livening up anything from lentil croquettes to grilled polenta or cheese fritters.

SERVES 2–4

4 tbsp mayonnaise

1–15 tbsp small capers, rinsed

1–1½ tbsp small gherkins, drained and chopped

1 tsp finely chopped onion

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

a few drops of Tabasco sauce

Just put all the ingredients into a bowl and mix together. Keep in a covered container in the fridge until required.

VARIATION

Vegan tartare sauce v

This is delicious made with a good vegan mayonnaise; I like the egg-free one with garlic that is widely available in health-food shops.

Tomato sauce v

This sauce really couldn’t be easier and is one of my standbys. I find it best not to let the tomatoes cook for very long this way the sauce has a much fresher flavour. It’s worth buying good-quality canned tomatoes because they have a much richer flavour and produce a better sauce.

SERVES 4–6

1 onion

1 tbsp olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

450g (1lb) tomatoes, skinned or 400g can chopped tomatoes

1 tsp dried oregano (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Peel and chop the onion and fry it gently in the oil in a medium-sized saucepan, with a lid on the pan, until it’s soft but not browned – about 10 minutes.

Add the garlic, along with the tomatoes and oregano (if using). Simmer, uncovered, for 10–15 minutes or until thick.

You can blend the sauce, or leave it chunky. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Tip

The basic recipe can be varied in lots of ways. Try putting a bay leaf with the onion to draw out its lovely flavour while it softens; or add a little chopped fresh or dried basil, thyme or cinnamon to the finished sauce; or stir a couple of tablespoons of red wine into the blended mixture before you reheat it. It can be served chilled, too.

Onion relish with poppy seeds and paprika v

If you cover onion rings with an oil and vinegar dressing and leave them for an hour or so to marinate, they soften and become less hot. This relish is delicious as a side for spicy lentil and rice dishes.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

2 tbsp olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 large mild onions, sliced into rings

1 tbsp poppy seeds

2 tsp paprika

Put the vinegar and oil into a shallow container with some salt and pepper and mix together.

Add the onion rings and mix again, so that they are all covered with the dressing.

Sprinkle with the poppy seeds and paprika.

Leave to one side for at least 1 hour, longer if possible, even overnight. Give it a stir every so often.

Quick no-cook chutney v

This is the easiest chutney recipe I know and it tastes delicious, just like a traditional one that’s been bubbling over a hot stove for ages. To sterilise the jam jars, either run them through a hot dishwasher cycle, or wash them, stand them on a baking sheet and place in a cool oven, 140°C (275°F) gas mark 1, for 10–15 minutes or until they are dry.

MAKES 3 KG (7LB)

450g (1lb) stoneless dates

450g (1lb) sultanas

450g (1lb) apples, peeled

450g (1lb) onions

450g (1lb) dark muscovado sugar

575ml (1 pint) vinegar (I use cider vinegar)

1 tsp salt

freshly ground black pepper

dash of cayenne pepper, allspice and ground ginger

Finely chop the first four ingredients in a food processor or by hand, then stir in the sugar and vinegar.

Add the salt, some pepper, and a pinch each of cayenne, allspice and ground ginger.

Leave the mixture to stand for 24 hours, giving it a stir from time to time, then spoon into sterilised jars and seal. Store in a cool, dry place. It keeps very well, just like a traditional chutney.

Salads and salad dressings

Salads are fantastically versatile and so easy to make. I love their vibrant colours, contrasting textures and delightful flavours. Plus, there’s the added bonus of no slaving over a hot stove!

You can eat salads for almost any meal of the day and they can play various roles. Some, such as endive salad or fennel and cucumber salad, make great accompaniments; others, like the great veggie caesar, can be wonderful starters or main courses, depending on portion size. You can complement any salad with whatever you fancy, such as fresh bread or potatoes.

Dressings are also quick and simple to make at home; I really don’t know why anyone buys them. It’s much better to spend your money on good-quality olive oil and various vinegars, starting with some red wine vinegar and adding others as you go, plus sea salt. Make the dressing straight into the salad bowl each time, or whisk up enough for several salads and keep in the fridge – as convenient as any bought dressing but a million times nicer!

Avocado dressing v

A luxurious and pretty dressing that I like on almost any salad. Try it on top of a red bean salad with a base of shredded lettuce.

SERVES 4–6

1 large ripe avocado

juice of ½ lemon

1 tbsp red wine or cider vinegar

1 tbsp best-quality extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tabasco sauce or curry powder (optional)

Halve, stone and skin the avocado. Put the flesh into a blender or food processor with the rest of the ingredients and whiz to a luscious pale green cream. Alternatively, put the ingredients into a deep bowl and use a hand blender.

You can perk up the flavour with a drop or two of Tabasco sauce or a pinch or two of curry powder.

Balsamic dressing with honey and mustard

This is a lovely sweet and tangy dressing, particularly good with slightly bitter salad leaves, though really it’s delicious on almost anything. For a vegan version, use agave syrup or maple syrup instead of the honey.

MAKES ABOUT 150ML (5FL OZ)

6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tbsp clear honey

1 tbsp wholegrain mustard

Either whisk the ingredients together in a bowl or put them into a screw-top jar and shake to combine. The latter is a handy way of making it because you can then keep the jar in the fridge.

Shake or whisk the dressing again before serving.

VARIATION

Balsamic dressing with garlic

Add a crushed garlic clove to the dressing and mix well.

Balsamic dressing with chilli and soy

Make as described, adding 1 tablespoon of soy sauce such as tamari and 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced.

Feta dressing

This tangy dressing is made with feta cheese. It’s a great way of adding protein as well as flavour to a salad.

SERVES 4

200g (7oz) feta cheese, drained and broken into pieces

5–6 tbsp milk

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Simply whiz everything together to a cream using an electric hand blender, liquidiser or food processor.

Honey and cider vinegar dressing

A sweet dressing that’s especially good on a shredded cabbage salad.

SERVES 2–4

1 tbsp clear honey

1 tbsp cider vinegar

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

¼ tsp salt

freshly ground black pepper

Thoroughly combine all the ingredients in a bowl or screw-top jar.

VARIATION

Honey and mint dressing

Made by adding 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh mint or 1 teaspoon concentrated mint sauce to the main recipe.

Easy blender mayonnaise

Here, the use of a blender makes it easy to produce a creamy, delicious mayo every time. You could use entirely olive oil, or half groundnut or grapeseed oil and half olive oil, as here, which gives a lighter flavour.

MAKES ABOUT 200ML (7FL OZ)

1 egg

¼ tsp salt

¼ tsp mustard powder

2–3 grindings of black pepper

2 tsp red wine vinegar

2 tsp lemon juice

100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil mixed with 100ml (3½fl oz) groundnut or grapeseed oil

Break the egg straight into the blender and add the salt, mustard, pepper, vinegar and lemon juice.

Blend for 1 minute at medium speed or until everything is well mixed, then turn the speed up to high and gradually add the oil, drop by drop, through the hole in the lid of the blender.

When you’ve added about half the oil, you will hear the motor change to a ‘glug-glug’ noise and then you can add the rest of the oil more quickly, in a thin stream.

If the consistency of the mayonnaise seems a bit on the thick side, you can thin it with a little hot water.

Lemon mayonnaise

You can use homemade mayonnaise made by the traditional or the blender method, or you can use good-quality bought mayonnaise. I find this variation particularly lovely as a sauce for dishes, such as the new potato, pea and mint frittata or lentil croquettes; it adds a deliciously fresh yet rich note that complements them.

SERVES 4

4 heaped tbsp mayonnaise

1 tsp finely grated lemon rind

1–6 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the mayonnaise into a bowl and stir in the finely grated lemon rind. Add the lemon juice gradually, tasting as you go, to get the mixture the right degree of sharpness for you. I like to use the whole amount, but then I love lemon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Traditional-method mayonnaise

Making mayonnaise by hand is hard work, but you get a beautiful, creamy result and it’s very satisfying to see the mixture gradually thicken as you whisk in the oil.

MAKES 200–275ML (7–10FL OZ)

2–3 egg yolks

4 tsp salt

4 tsp mustard powder 2 or 3 grindings of black pepper

2 tsp red wine vinegar

2 tsp lemon juice

200–275ml (7–10fl oz) olive oil and groundnut oil, mixed

Put the egg yolks into a bowl and add the salt, mustard, pepper, vinegar and lemon juice.

Whisk for a minute or two until everything is well mixed and creamy, then start to add the oil, just a drop at a time, whisking hard after each addition.

When you have added about half the oil, the mixture will begin to thicken and look like mayonnaise, and then you can add the oil a little quicker, still whisking hard.

Go on whisking in the oil until the mixture is really thick – if you use three egg yolks you will probably be able to use 275ml (10fl oz) of oil, otherwise about 200ml (7fl oz) will be enough.

If the consistency of the mayonnaise seems a bit on the thick side, you can thin it with a little boiling water.

Mayonnaise and yoghurt dressing

You can use either homemade mayonnaise or a good-quality bought one for this.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp mayonnaise

2 tbsp natural yoghurt

Simply mix everything together.

Ricotta mayonnaise

My daughter Meg invented this dressing, which tastes very much like mayonnaise but contains only a fraction of the calories. You can vary the flavour by adding ½ teaspoon of Dijon mustard and you can also add a little skimmed milk if you want a thinner consistency.

SERVES 6–8

2 tbsp natural yoghurt

125g (4oz) ricotta

2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

½ tsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Simply mix everything together to a smooth cream.

Soured cream dressing

Creamy and sweet and sour, this adds a touch of luxury to many green salads.

SERVES 6

275ml (10fl oz) soured cream

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp caster sugar

1 tsp salt

½ tsp freshly ground white pepper

Just mix all the ingredients together until creamy. Keep in a covered container in the fridge for 4–5 days.

Tahini dressing v

The creamy texture and slightly bitter flavour of this dressing is addictive. It goes well with almost any vegetable or pulse salad. Try adding some chopped fresh herbs such as flat-leaf parsley or chives.

SERVES 2–4

1 heaped tbsp tahini

2 tbsp cold water

1 tbsp lemon juice

1 garlic clove, crushed (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the tahini into a bowl and gradually beat in the water and lemon juice. The mixture will be lumpy at first, but will gradually get light and fluffy as you beat in the liquid.

Add the garlic (if using) season to taste.

Tofu dressing v

This dressing, made from tofu or bean curd, is a bit like mayonnaise but considerably more nutritious and lower in oil. This is also nice with some chopped fresh herbs or spring onions added.

MAKES ABOUT 35OML (12FL OZ)

300g packet tofu – from health-food shops

2 tsp red wine vinegar

1 tsp mustard powder

1 tsp muscovado sugar

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

If you’ve got a blender, simply whiz all the ingredients together until combined. Or put the ingredients into a deep mixing bowl and use a hand blender.

Alternatively, put the tofu into a bowl and whisk until smooth, then add the vinegar, mustard and sugar and whisk again. Next beat in the oil, a little at a time. Season with salt and pepper.

Vinaigrette v

When I’m making this to dress a salad, I usually make it straight into the salad bowl, mix quickly and put the salad in on top. But if you need it for pouring over a salad, or for serving with avocados, for instance, it’s easiest to make it by shaking all the ingredients together in a clean screw-top jar, and for this you may want to double the quantities given here. Store in the jar in the fridge for up to a week.

SERVES 4–6

1 tbsp wine vinegar (preferably red)

3–4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix everything together, adding plenty of seasoning. Some chopped fresh herbs, a crushed garlic clove, also a little mustard and a dash of sugar, can be added to vary the flavour. You can also use different vinegars, such as cider or raspberry vinegar for a fruity flavour, balsamic vinegar for a rich, slightly sweet, mellow flavour, or rice vinegar, which is light and delicate.

VARIATION

Walnut vinaigrette v

Make as described, with 1–2 tablespoons of walnut oil replacing the same quantity of olive oil. Adding a crushed garlic clove also works well.

Yoghurt and green herb dressing

This is a fresh-tasting, slightly sharp dressing that’s good with most salad.

SERVES 4–6

275ml (10fl oz) natural yoghurt

1–2 heaped tbsp finely chopped fresh herbs, especially flat-leaf parsley, also chives and mint

1 tbsp lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the yoghurt into a bowl and stir in the chopped herbs, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

VARIATION

Yoghurt and spring onion dressing

Make as in the main recipe, using 3 tablespoons of chopped spring onions instead of the chopped herbs.

How to sprout beans, grains and lentils v

Sprouted beans, grains and lentils may sound a bit ‘knit your own yoghurt', but it’s worth doing as they can add an interesting, crunchy element to salads and are highly nutritious, being rich in vitamins and minerals and containing high-quality protein.

Sprouting is easy to do. All you need is a jar (a big coffee jar is ideal), a piece of muslin or J cloth to go over the top, secured with an elastic band, and some beans or seeds. Most types are suitable, with the exception of red kidney beans and large beans like butter beans. Good ones to use are chickpeas, whole lentils, sunflower seeds, mung beans, aduki beans. Or you can buy some ready-made mixes of seeds and beans, which take the same amount of time to sprout.

Put half a cupful of your chosen beans or seeds into your jar, cover with cold water and leave to soak for 8–12 hours. Put the piece of muslin or J cloth over the top of the jar. Then drain off the water, fill the jar with fresh water, swish it round and then pour it all out again. All this can be done without removing the muslin or J cloth, which prevents the seeds or beans falling out. This rinsing has to be repeated twice a day, to keep the seeds damp (but they mustn’t be left soaking in water or they’ll rot rather than sprout). When I’m sprouting seeds, I keep them by the sink to remind me about the rinsing. They’re ready when they’re grown a little tail – usually in 2–4 days. They can be used straight away, added to salads and sandwiches, or kept in the fridge for several days.

Salads
Aigroissade

I love this French chickpea and vegetable salad, but with its creamy mayonnaise dressing it’s too high in fat and calories to enjoy very often. So I’ve gradually evolved ways of lightening it up. Chargrilled artichoke hearts can be bought from the deli section of any large supermarket.

SERVES 4–6

125g (4oz) chickpeas, soaked and cooked until tender or 400g can

350g (12oz) each of cooked carrots and cooked cut green beans

tub of chargrilled artichoke hearts

6 rounded tbsp natural yoghurt

6 rounded tbsp mayonnaise

2 large garlic cloves, crushed

1 tbsp wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper crisp lettuce and watercress

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Drain the chickpeas and put them into a large bowl with the carrots and beans.

Halve the artichoke hearts and add them to the bowl.

To make the dressing, put the yoghurt, mayonnaise, garlic and vinegar into a small bowl and mix well together until creamy. Season with salt and pepper.

Pour the dressing over the vegetables and mix carefully until everything is well coated.

Line a serving dish with lettuce leaves and watercress, spoon the vegetable mixture on top and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Alfalfa slaw v

SERVES 4–6

450g (1lb) grated cabbage

2 carrots, grated

125g (4oz) alfalfa sprouts

balsamic dressing

Mix together all the vegetables, then add enough vinaigrette to moisten.

Avocado and mushroom salad v

Made with fresh, tightly closed button mushrooms and ripe avocado, this is delicious.

SERVES 4

450g (1lb) baby button mushrooms

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 avocados

2 tbsp lemon juice

1–2 tbsp chopped fresh chives

Wash the mushrooms, pat dry on kitchen paper and slice thinly. Put the slices into a bowl, add the vinegar, olive oil and some salt and pepper, and mix well. Leave to one side for 1 hour.

Just before you want to serve the salad, halve each avocado, remove the stone and peel. Cut the flesh into fairly large dice and sprinkle with the lemon juice.

Add to the mushrooms, together with the chopped chives, and mix gently.

Sprouted bean salad with carrots and spring onions v

In this salad, sprouted beans are combined with grated carrots, tomatoes, watercress and spring onions. It’s very vitalising!

SERVES 4

2 handfuls of mixed sprouts such as mung, chickpea, aduki and sunflower

350g (12oz) carrots, coarsely grated

4 large tomatoes, sliced

small bunch of spring onions, chopped

120g packet mixed baby leaf salad

80g packet watercress

vinaigrette dressing

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put all the ingredients into a bowl and mix gently. Add enough vinaigrette to moisten the salad and make it glisten. Season with a little salt and pepper and serve.

VARIATION

Layered sprouted bean salad with tahini dressing v

This is particularly attractive arranged in layers in a glass bowl, with tahini dressing poured over the top.

Beansprout, mushroom and celery salad with coriander v

This is a bit like a salad stir-fry! You could even serve it with some hot cooked rice or noodles.

SERVES 4

1 stick of celery, finely sliced

225g (8oz) beansprouts

175g (6oz) very fresh button mushrooms, finely sliced

a bunch of spring onions, sliced

a small bunch of fresh coriander, roughly chopped

grated rind and juice of 1 lime

1 tbsp toasted sesame oil

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

dash of clear honey, maple or agave syrup

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the celery, bean sprouts, sliced mushrooms, spring onions and coriander in a bowl and mix gently.

Add the grated lime rind and juice, the sesame and olive oil and the soy sauce. Mix until everything is coated. Have a taste and add clear honey, maple or agave syrup, salt and pepper to taste.

Three-bean salad with mustard dressing v

Thin green French beans, tender broad beans and kidney beans in a tangy mustard dressing.

SERVES 4

225g (8oz) thin French beans, trimmed

225g (8oz) frozen broad beans

1 tbsp Dijon or wholegrain mild mustard

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

400g can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed

2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

Cook the French beans in a little fast-boiling water for 4–5 minutes, or until just tender. Thaw the broad beans by putting them in a sieve under the hot tap, then add to the same pan and cook for about 4 minutes. Drain all the beans, refresh by putting them under the cold tap to preserve the colour, and drain again.

Mix the dressing straight into a large serving bowl, adding the mustard, oil, vinegar and some salt and pepper, and mixing together.

Add the kidney beans to the bowl, the cooked beans and the chopped parsley, and mix until all the beans are glossy with the dressing.

You can serve this salad straight away, but it’s even better left to stand for an hour or so, to let the flavours blend.

Black and white bean salad with lemon thyme v

Bean salads are especially attractive when made from two or more contrasting beans and this is a particularly lovely combination.

SERVES 4–6

400g can black beans

400g can cannellini beans

½ tsp mustard powder

½ tsp soft dark brown sugar

4 tsp red wine vinegar

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp chopped lemon thyme (or other fresh herbs as available)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Drain and rinse the beans.

Put the mustard, sugar and vinegar into a large bowl and mix together, then add the oil, herbs, beans and seasoning.

Mix gently, then, if there is time, leave for at least 30 minutes for the flavours to develop. Serve in a shallow bowl.

Beetroot, apple and celery salad v

This is a pleasant mixture of contrasting tastes and textures: soft, earthy-flavoured beetroot, crunchy sweet apple and salty celery.

SERVES 4–6

350g (12oz) cooked beetroot – with or without skin, but with no added vinegar

2 sweet eating apples

1 heart of celery

cider vinegar vinaigrette

a few sprigs of watercress

50g (2oz) shelled walnuts, chopped

If the beetroot still has its skin on, peel it off and rinse the beetroot under the tap. Cut into chunky dice and place in a bowl.

Peel, core and dice the apples. Slice the celery and add both to the bowl.

Mix the salad, adding enough vinaigrette to make it glossy. Put into a salad bowl, serving dish or divide between individual plates, adding a few sprigs of watercress and sprinkling with chopped walnuts.

Beetroot and horseradish salad v

A curiously pleasant mixture of flavours and textures, this salad makes a good accompaniment to cold savoury dishes.

SERVES 4

700g (1½lb) cooked beetroot (with no added vinegar)

1 eating apple

1 tsp caraway seeds

1 tbsp sugar

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

1–2 tbsp horseradish sauce

Peel and dice the beetroot and the apple. Put them into a bowl with the caraway seeds, sugar, vinegar and horseradish sauce and mix them all together lightly. Chill in the fridge before serving.

Raw beetroot salad v

Raw beetroot is said to contain enzymes that are particularly valuable for health, and features in many natural cancer cures. It is also said to contain a substance that helps to break up fat deposits in the body and thus aid slimming! In any case, I like the sweet, earthy flavour and vibrant ruby colour of it; try it in this tasty main course salad.

SERVES 4

225–350g (8–12oz) raw beetroot

4 eating apples

4 sticks of celery, finely sliced

4 tbsp raisins

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar or cider vinegar

peel of ½ lemon

1 lettuce

1 tbsp chopped fresh chives, to garnish

Peel and coarsely grate the raw beetroot and apples, add the celery, raisins, oil and vinegar.

Remove the peel from the lemon using a potato peeler, then snip into 1cm (½in) slivers using scissors; add to the mixture. Allow to marinate for an hour or so if possible.

Serve on a bed of lettuce, top with a sprinkling of chopped chives.

Roasted beetroot and goat’s cheese salad

This salad is a great combination of contrasting flavours and textures. I love to use baby beetroot if they’re available, but if not, just cut normal-size ones down through their stalks into quarters.

SERVES 4–6

450g (1lb) raw baby beetroot, preferably no bigger than plums

olive oil, for brushing

120g bag of mixed salad leaves, including some frisée and baby lettuce leaves

a few sprigs of fresh dill or lovage, if available

200g (7oz) soft goat’s cheese

freshly black pepper

balsamic dressing

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), gas mark 5.

If the beetroot still has leaves attached, cut these off about 5cm (2in) from the root. Put the beetroot in a roasting tin, brush with oil and roast in the oven for 30–45 minutes or until tender when pierced with the point of a sharp knife.

Divide the beetroot between individual plates, along with the salad leaves, dill or lovage and the goat’s cheese. Coarsely grind a little black pepper over the goat’s cheese if you wish. Drizzle some balsamic dressing over the salad leaves and serve.

Broad bean, pea and feta salad with mint

This dish is the taste of summer on a plate and works equally well with fresh or frozen broad beans and peas. If the broad beans are much bigger than hazel nuts you could pop them out of their grey skins after cooking – a labour of love, but worth it for the brilliant colour and delicate texture of the skinned beans.

SERVES 4

250g (9oz) frozen or podded broad beans (500g (1lb 2oz) in their pods)

350g (12oz) frozen petit pois or podded peas (700g (15lb) in their pods)

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1½ tsp white or red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

caster sugar, to taste

200g (7oz) feta cheese, cut into 1cm (½in) cubes

about 8 good sprigs of mint, chopped

Cook the broad beans in half a panful of boiling water for 2 minutes, until beginning to soften or then add the peas, bring back to the boil and cook for a further minute or so, until tender.

Drain the peas and beans and return them to the pan. Mix in the oil, vinegar, salt, a grinding of pepper and perhaps a pinch or two of sugar to taste, if necessary. Add the feta and chopped mint and stir gently. Serve immediately, still warm, or eat it when it’s cold. It’s lovely either way.

Butter beans and mushrooms with coriander v

This succulent and spicy salad makes an excellent starter. Serve it with some bread to mop up the delicious juices.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER, 2 AS A MAINS SALAD DISH

225g (8oz) baby button mushrooms

3 tbsp vegetable oil

3–4 tsp ground coriander

2 garlic cloves, crushed

125g (4oz) dried butter beans, soaked, cooked and drained; or 400g can drained and rinsed

1–2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO SERVE

2 handfuls of salad leaves

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Wash the mushrooms and halve or quarter them if necessary.

Heat the oil in a saucepan and add the mushrooms. Fry for 2–3 minutes, just to tenderise them, then add the coriander and garlic, and fry for a minute or two more.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter beans and lemon juice, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

You can serve this salad straight away, warm and juicy from the pan, or let it cool. Pile it up on a base of pretty salad leaves and scatter with chopped parsley.

Butter bean, tomato and olive salad v

This succulent mixture of flavours is delicious as a first course for four people, or as a light lunch or supper for two, served with some bread and something green and leafy to make the meal complete.

SERVES 2–4

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 mild onion, sliced

450g (1lb) tomatoes, sliced

400g can butter beans, drained and rinsed or 125g (4oz) dried butter beans, soaked, cooked and drained

a handful of black olives

Put the oil and vinegar into a mixing bowl, or straight into a salad bowl, and add a little salt and pepper.

Add the onion, tomatoes, butter beans and olives and turn everything gently to mix the ingredients.

Serve from the bowl, or on individual plates.

Greek butter bean salad v

This tastes like the bean salads you get all over Greece, which I love, but without all the hours of slow cooking. In fact, it’s almost instant, though it does benefit from sitting for an hour or so. Enjoy it with Greek salad, kalamata olives and ciabatta.

SERVES 4

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tbsp tomato purée

2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 × 400g butter beans

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

In a large bowl mix together the olive oil, garlic, tomato purée and lemon juice.

Drain and rinse the beans, and add to the bowl. Mix well and season with salt and pepper to taste.

If possible, let the salad rest for an hour or so for the flavours to develop.

Serve at room temperature, sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Roasted butternut squash salad with balsamic dressing v

A fabulous salad: meltingly tender pieces of sweet butternut squash bathed in a glossy tamari and balsamic dressing with a hint of chilli, a scattering of sizzling hot sesame seeds and some peppery green rocket.

SERVES 4–6

1 butternut squash

a little olive oil for brushing

4 spring onions, sliced

2 tsp sesame seeds

150g (5oz) rocket leaves, to garnish

FOR THE DRESSING

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tsp tamari or other soy sauce

½ tsp dried red chilli flakes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pre-heat the oven to 190°C (375°F), gas mark 5

Cut the butternut squash in half lengthways and brush the cut surfaces with oil. Put them, cut-side up, into a roasting tin and bake for about 1 hour or until the squash is soft.

Set the squash aside until it’s cool enough to handle, then scoop out and discard the seeds. Peel off the papery skin – it will come away easily – and cut the flesh into 2.5cm (1in) chunks.

Put all the dressing ingredients into a large bowl, with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well.

Add the butternut squash to the bowl, along with the spring onions, and mix gently, so that it is coated with the glossy dressing. Check the seasoning.

Toast the sesame seeds by stirring them for a minute or two in a dry saucepan until they smell toasty and start to jump around.

Put the butternut squash salad on to individual plates, top with a scattering of sizzling sesame seeds and garnish generously with rocket.

VARIATION

Roasted butternut squash salad with balsamic dressing and feta

A delicious variation is to add 200g (7oz) feta cheese, cut or broken into small cubes or pieces. The creamy saltiness of the feta contrasts well with the sweet tenderness of the balsamic-glazed butternut squash and the fresh peppery rocket.

Red cabbage and apple salad

A lovely salad for the autumn, sweet apples and sultanas with crisp red cabbage and walnuts, and a honey dressing.

SERVES 4

450g (1lb) red cabbage

2 sweet eating apples

1 celery heart

50g (2oz) sultanas or raisins (optional)

small handful of chopped walnuts

honey and cider dressing

Wash and finely shred the cabbage. Wash the apples and chop, without peeling if the skins look good, and slice the celery. Place all these in a salad bowl.

If you’re using the sultanas or raisins, cover them with boiling water and leave for 10 minutes, to plump them; drain, and mix with salad, along with the walnuts and enough honey dressing to make the mixture moist and shiny.

VARIATION

Primo cabbage and apple salad

Make as described, but using tender primo or pointed green instead of red cabbage. The walnuts are optional in this version.

Cauliflower and apple salad

Make as described, but use 450g (1lb) cauliflower (1 medium-sized cauliflower) instead of cabbage, and pine nuts instead of walnuts.

Cabbage salad with red pepper and raisins v

This colourful salad is excellent with jacket potatoes, onion quiche or quick cheese and tomato flan.

SERVES 4

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

350g (12oz) white cabbage, shredded

175g (6oz) carrots, chopped or coarsely grated

175g (6oz) red pepper, deseeded and chopped

2 heaped tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chives or spring onions

50g (2oz) raisins

50g (2oz) roasted unsalted peanuts or cashews, or pine nuts or chopped walnuts

Put the oil and vinegar into the base of a salad bowl, add some salt and pepper and mix together.

Add the cabbage, carrots, red peppers, parsley, chives or spring onions and raisins, and turn everything over a few times with a spoon so that it all gets covered in the dressing.

If possible leave for an hour or so; this softens the cabbage and gives the flavours a chance to blend. Stir in the nuts just before serving.

Cabbage salad with mint and pomegranate

This salad is so pretty: pale cabbage with shiny ruby pomegranate seeds glinting among the bright green mint.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp chopped fresh mint

1 tbsp honey

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

450g (1lb) white cabbage, coarsely grated or finely shredded

1 pomegranate

3–4 sprigs of mint, to garnish

Put the chopped mint, honey, vinegar, oil and some salt and pepper into a large bowl and mix together to form a dressing.

Add the cabbage and mix thoroughly, so that it gets well coated with the sweet herb dressing.

Leave for at least 1 hour, so that the cabbage softens a little and absorbs all the flavours.

Just before you want to serve the salad, cut the pomegranate in two and, holding one half over a plate to catch the juice, bend the fruit backwards to make the seeds pop out, helped as necessary with the point of a sharp knife.

Add the pomegranate juice to the salad, and stir in some of the seeds. Then tip the salad out on to a large flat plate and decorate with the mint sprigs and remaining pomegranate seeds. Serve as soon as possible, while the pomegranate is bright and sparkling.

VARIATION

Sweet cabbage salad with lovage

Make as described, using chopped fresh lovage instead of mint. The pungent, aromatic flavour of lovage along with the sweet dressing makes this salad deliciously different. Lovage is not easy to find in the shops, but if you have the space to grow it, it’s easy because it comes up every year.

A great veggie Caesar

Caesar salad, with its sweet, crisp leaves, creamy mayonnaise dressing, cheese and croûtons, seems like a great vegetarian salad, except that often it isn’t. The mayonnaise may have Worcestershire sauce in it; there may be anchovies in the salad, and Parmesan cheese is not vegetarian. But it is possible to make a great veggie Caesar with Tabasco, capers and gherkins to pep up the mayonnaise, and Parmesan-style cheese or hard vegetarian pecorino to take the place of Parmesan.

SERVES 4

1 Cos lettuce, washed and torn into large bite-sized pieces

FOR THE DRESSING

6 tbsp mayonnaise

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 garlic clove, crushed

a few drops of Tabasco or hot chilli sauce

125g (4oz) pecorino or Parmesan-style cheese, flaked with a potato peeler or coarsely grated

2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed (or rinsed and drained if preserved in salt)

1–2 small gherkins, chopped

salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE CROUTONS

2–4 slices of bread olive oil, for frying

Put the lettuce into a salad bowl.

Mix the mayonnaise with the lemon juice, garlic and enough Tabasco or hot chilli sauce to give it a pleasant kick. Add half the cheese, the capers and the gherkins, and add to the bowl with the lettuce. Scatter the rest of the cheese on top and season to taste with pepper and a little salt if necessary.

To make the croûtons, fry the slices of bread in olive oil in a frying pan, until they are crisp and golden, turning them to fry the each side. Cut the fried bread into pieces and add to the salad bowl. Toss the salad and eat at once.

Celeriac remoulade

Celeriac, that knobbly root with the delicious celery flavour, makes a classic, creamy salad. I like it with some lovely bright green watercress. It’s also delicious in a lighter, vinaigrette dressing (see the variation).

SERVES 4

450g (1lb) celeriac

6 tbsp mayonnaise: homemade or good-quality bought

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp sugar

½ tsp salt

freshly ground black pepper

Peel the celeriac and cut into quarters, then grate coarsely.

Put the grated celeriac into a bowl with the mayonnaise, lemon juice, mustard, sugar, salt and a good grinding of black pepper, and mix well.

If possible, leave it for 30 minutes or so to give the celeriac a chance to soak up the flavour of the dressing, then serve.

VARIATION

Celeriac vinaigrette v

Grate the celeriac as described, then mix with vinaigrette, so that it is all coated and glossy with the dressing. This is good with plenty of pepper added; you could grind it in, or add ½–1 teaspoon of coarsely ground black pepper from a jar, or crushed using a pestle and mortar.

Chicory and walnut salad v

If you can get red chicory, this salad is lovely made with half red and half white; otherwise just use white chicory. Either way, it’s crisp and refreshing.

SERVES 4–6

350g (12oz) white chicory

350g (12oz) red chicory

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil or half walnut oil and half olive oil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

50g (2oz) shelled walnut pieces, roughly chopped

Wash the chicory, dry carefully, then slice, or pull the leaves apart.

Put the oil and vinegar into a salad bowl, add some salt and pepper and mix together, then add the chicory and walnuts and toss in the oil until everything is shiny with the dressing. Serve at once.

VARIATION

Salad of Chinese leaves with spring onions v

This salad is made in the same way as the previous one, using 700g (1½lb) Chinese leaves and adding a bunch of chopped spring onions instead of (or, if you prefer, as well as) the walnuts. I also rather like it with some raisins added too; they give a pleasant touch of sweetness.

Chinese leaf and beansprout salad

In this recipe, I have emphasised the Chinese theme by mixing Chinese leaves with crunchy beansprouts and a sweet and sour soy sauce and sesame oil dressing. It’s rather like a salad version of Chinese stir-fry.

SERVES 4

175g (6oz) fresh beansprouts

1 tbsp clear honey

3 tbsp sesame oil or olive oil

2 tbsp dark soy sauce

freshly ground black pepper

2.5cm (1in) fresh root ginger, finely grated

350g (12oz) Chinese leaves, shredded

2 carrots, coarsely grated

Cover the beansprouts with cold water and leave them to soak and become crisp while you make the dressing and prepare the other ingredients.

Put the honey, oil and soy sauce into the base of a large bowl with a grating of pepper and the ginger, and mix together.

Add the Chinese leaves and carrots, mix well, then drain the beansprouts and add these. Mix again and serve.

Coleslaw

Homemade coleslaw is better than any you can buy, and it’s very quick and easy to make. You can control the richness – using mayonnaise gives the creamiest, most delicious result but for lighter versions you can replace some of this with natural yoghurt.

SERVES 4

350g (12oz) white cabbage, shredded

1 large carrot, coarsely grated

1 small onion, finely sliced

50g (2oz) sultanas (optional)

3 rounded tbsp mayonnaise

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the cabbage, carrot and onion into a large bowl with the sultanas, (if using).

Add the mayonnaise and some salt and pepper to taste and mix well.

Cover and leave for 2–3 hours before serving, if possible. This allows the vegetables to soften and the flavours to blend.

Endive salad v

Curly endive makes a lovely salad. I wish that we could buy it as easily in the UK as one can in France. The lovely round, untidy green and yellow heads taste wonderful with a simple walnut vinaigrette.

SERVES 4

½ head curly endive

walnut vinaigrette

50g (2oz) shelled walnut pieces, lightly chopped

Wash the endive, discarding any discoloured or damaged leaves. Break up or chop roughly.

Put the endive into a salad bowl with the vinaigrette, add the fresh walnuts, and toss together. Serve immediately.

Fatoush v

This Lebanese dish contains the usual ingredients of Middle Eastern salads – cucumber, tomato, green pepper, onion, parsley and mint – but also toasted pitta bread. Sumac is a traditional Lebanese spice that can be bought from Middle Eastern shops or, increasingly, many supermarkets.

SERVES 2–4

1 Cos lettuce, roughly chopped

a small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

leaves from a small bunch of mint, roughly chopped

3 tomatoes, diced

1 avocado, peeled and diced

1 cucumber, diced

1 green pepper, deseeded and chopped

1 bunch of spring onions, chopped

1 pitta bread

FOR THE DRESSING

juice of 1 lemon

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1–3 tsp sumac (if available)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put all the prepared vegetables into a salad bowl and mix.

Make the dressing in a small bowl by combining the lemon juice, oil, garlic, sumac – start with the smaller quantity and add more to taste – plenty of salt and a grinding of pepper.

Open out the pitta bread and toast under a hot grill or in a toaster until crisp, then break into bite-sized pieces and add to the salad.

Give the dressing a final stir, then add to the salad. Toss the salad to combine everything, then serve.

Fennel, carrot and spring onion salad v

A refreshing salad that’s quick to make, especially if you have an electric grater.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp lemon juice

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper

1 large fennel bulb

225g (8oz) carrots, coarsely grated

4 spring onions, chopped

Put the lemon juice and oil into a large bowl with a little salt and pepper and mix to make a simple dressing.

Wash and slice the fennel, trimming off any tough outer layers but keeping any feathery green tops; chop these green bits and add to the bowl.

Add the grated carrots and spring onions. Mix well together.

If possible, leave for an hour or so before serving – this salad improves with standing.

Fennel and cucumber salad v

The mixture of fennel and cucumber is refreshing and clean-tasting, and this salad is excellent for when you’re in a hurry because it’s very simple to make. It goes well with many pasta dishes.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

2 tbsp olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cucumber

1 large fennel bulb

a little sugar (optional)

Put the vinegar, oil, salt and a grinding of pepper into a salad bowl and mix together.

Peel the cucumber and cut into medium-sized dice. Wash, trim and slice the fennel, discarding any coarse leaves but including any tender feathery leaves.

Add the cucumber and fennel to the dressing mixture in the bowl and stir well.

Check the seasoning – just a touch of sugar can be pleasant in this salad – then serve.

Flageolet and avocado salad v

I’m particularly fond of this tasty, colourful salad.

SERVES 2 AS A SALAD MEAL, 4 AS A STARTER

125g (4oz) dried flageolet beans, soaked, cooked and drained, or 400g can, drained and rinsed

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

¼ tsp mustard powder

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 ripe avocado

a few crisp lettuce leaves, to serve

2 tbsp chopped chives, to garnish

Put the beans into a salad bowl.

Mix the oil with the vinegar, mustard and some salt and pepper and add to the beans.

Halve the avocado and gently remove the skin and the stone, then slice the flesh and add it to the beans. Turn the mixture gently, so that everything gets coated with the dressing. Serve on top of the lettuce leaves and sprinkled with chopped chives.

VARIATION

Flageolet and button mushroom salad v

Use 175g (6oz) sliced button mushrooms instead of the avocado.

Flageolet and spring onion salad v

Use 6–8 large spring onions, trimmed and chopped, instead of the avocado.

French bean salad with a coriander seed dressing v

French beans and button mushrooms are marinated in a spicy dressing of crushed coriander seeds, lemon juice and olive oil.

SERVES 4–6

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

450g (1lb) button mushrooms, halved or quartered

1 small bay leaf

1 tbsp coriander seed, crushed

juice of 1 small lemon

450g (1lb) French beans, cooked and drained

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the mushrooms, bay leaf and coriander seeds for 2–3 minutes or until the mushrooms are beginning to soften.

Remove from the heat and pour in the lemon juice; add the beans, parsley and some salt and pepper.

Leave until completely cold, then transfer to a bowl and chill in the fridge before serving.

Fusilli salad with rocket and avocado v

Pasta spirals with buttery avocado make a good first course or summer lunch.

SERVES 4–6

225g (8oz) fusilli

salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

1–2 garlic cloves, crushed

freshly ground black pepper

a large handful of rocket

2–4 spring onions, finely chopped

2 avocados

2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water until just tender, then drain thoroughly.

Mix the oil, vinegar, garlic and some salt and pepper in a large bowl, add the hot pasta, turning it until well coated.

Cool slightly – it doesn’t have to be completely cold – and add the rocket and spring onions.

Halve each avocado, removing the skin and stone, and dice the flesh. Sprinkle with lemon juice to preserve the colour.

Fold the avocado into the pasta mix, together with the spring onions. Check the seasoning and serve.

Greek salad

Instant nostalgia to anyone who loves Greece and has happy holiday memories of being there. Sometimes when I’m in that mood, I’ll go the whole hog and serve this with spanikopita and some tzatziki too.

SERVES 4–6

2 green peppers

1 cucumber

450g (1lb) firm tomatoes

1 medium-sized sweet onion

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground pepper

a handful of kalamata olives

200g (7oz) feta cheese, cut into 1cm (½in) dice

½–1 tsp dried oregano

Deseed the peppers and cut them into chunky pieces; peel the cucumber and cut that into chunks, too; slice the tomatoes and the onion. Put them all into a bowl.

Drizzle in the oil, lemon juice and vinegar and mix gently, adding salt and pepper to taste, followed by the olives and cheese; mix again, gently.

Serve scattered with dried oregano.

VARIATION

Greek salad with roasted red peppers

Above is the traditional Greek salad we know and love, but recently I was served the salad with some embellishment in the form of the roasted red peppers. This, I hasten to add, was in England, not Greece, but I found it rather good. All you do is put 2 large red peppers on a baking sheet and grill them under a high heat for 20–25 minutes until the skins are blistered and blackened in places, and when the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel off the skin, remove the core and seeds, rinse and cut into pieces. Add these to the salad, made as described but without the green peppers. You might like to snip some fresh oregano over the top instead of using dried.

Green salad v

A green salad can be adapted according to the season, and is perhaps the most useful basic salad of all. I think plenty of fresh herbs make all the difference and I personally like to make it quite pungent with garlic and onion rings, but leave these out if they’re not to your taste.

SERVES 4

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 garlic clove, crushed (optional)

1 lettuce, shredded

other green salad as available (e.g. watercress, sliced chicory, fennel or cucumber, finely shredded baby spinach)

2 heaped tbsp chopped fresh herbs (e.g. flat-leaf parsley, chives or spring onions, mint, tarragon, basil)

First make the dressing by putting the oil and vinegar into the base of a salad bowl and mixing with a little pepper and the garlic (if using).

Add all the other ingredients and mix well, so that everything gets coated with the shiny dressing. Serve immediately.

VARIATION

Green salad with Gruyère cheese

This traditional French salad is a delicious variation on the classic green salad. Simply add 125–175g (4–6oz) diced Gruyère cheese. If you can’t find a vegetarian Gruyère, you could use vegetarian Emmental or even Edam, which are much more widely available.

Haricot bean salad with green herb dressing v

This dish is best made well in advance to allow the flavours time to blend. You can dress the salad while the beans are still hot, leave it to cool, then chill before serving. It makes a good first course or addition to a salad selection, or can be served with hot garlic bread and a green salad or tomato salad.

SERVES 4–6

225g (8oz) dried haricot beans, soaked and cooked or use 2 × 400g cans

1 tsp sugar

5 tsp mustard powder

1 garlic clove, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 heaped tbsp chopped fresh herbs (such as chives, parsley, chervil, tarragon and dill)

Drain the beans, rinsing the canned ones (if using).

Put the sugar, mustard and garlic into a bowl with a little salt and a grinding of pepper. Blend to a paste with the vinegar, then gradually stir in the oil to make a dressing.

Add the herbs and the beans and mix well. Allow to cool, then chill in the fridge before serving.

Insalata tricolore

So simple, so good; lovely as a first course or to accompany a simple pasta dish such as spaghetti with pesto. Vegetarian mozzarella is available, but look for one made from cow’s milk rather than the more traditional buffalo’s milk, which usually contains animal rennet.

SERVES 2

2 large ripe tomatoes, sliced

1 ripe avocado, peeled and sliced

1 ball of mozzarella, sliced

2 tablespoons torn fresh basil leaves extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, for drizzling

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the slices of tomato, avocado and mozzarella attractively on a flat plate or two individual plates.

Scatter with the basil leaves, then drizzle with the olive oil and balsamic vinegar, sprinkle with a little salt and grind over some black pepper. Serve at once.

Puy lentil salad v

Combined with a good fruity olive oil, lemon juice and some crisp onion rings, Puy lentils make a delicious salad. Perfect accompanied by a crisp, herby green salad and a glass of wine on a summer’s day.

SERVES 4

225g (8oz) Puy lentils (or small brown or green lentils)

1 tbsp lemon juice

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 onion

2–3 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Soak the lentils in water for a couple of hours or so if possible – this speeds up the cooking process – then drain, rinse, put into a saucepan, cover with fresh water to come 5cm (2in) above the top of the lentils, and simmer them gently until tender but not mushy – about 45 minutes. For flavour and digestibility, it is important to get them (and indeed any pulse) really tender – ‘al dente’ is for pasta, not pulses.

Drain the lentils thoroughly (keep the cooking liquid, it makes good stock) and put them into a bowl with the lemon juice, oil and some salt and pepper.

Peel the onion and cut it into very thin rounds, then add these to the lentils, along with the chopped parsley, and mix everything gently together. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

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