Copyright

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First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2017

FIRST EDITION

Text © Rachel Allen 2017

Photography © Maja Smend 2017

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Dedication

This book is dedicated to the two mothers in my life. To my mum Hallfridur, who is loving and wise in every situation, and has given me the best start in life. And to my dynamic, indefatigable mother-in-law Darina, who has dedicated her life to teaching and inspiring future generations to feed themselves and others in the best possible way. Thank you both.

Contents

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Dedication

Introduction

Breakfasts

Lunches

Dinners

Desserts

Baking

Preserving

List of Searchable Terms

List of Recipes

Acknowledgements

Also by Rachel Allen

About the Publisher

Introduction

I’ve always been fascinated by what makes people the way they are. We are like very complex, colourful tapestries, and as with every other living being, no two of us are exactly the same. We are all, of course, a product of two different people, but who we are as actual individuals goes deeper and is much more interesting than that. The place where we grew up, the climate, the cultures, the traditions and, not least, the food we eat all play a part in weaving together the fibres that make us who we are.

I grew up in Dublin with a sister, an Irish father and a mother from Iceland. I’ve always been very proud of my half-Icelandic and half-Irish heritage. I count myself fortunate in that it was a very happy home with lots of good food. While my father made great brown bread and the best poached eggs in town, it was my mum who always cooked a delicious and nutritious meal for us all to eat at the end of the day. She had first one, then two, busy boutiques (while even whipping up the clothes for the shop herself on the sewing machine in the 1970s) and somehow there was always a great meal ready for us in the evening.

My favourites were the kinds of dishes that many people call comfort food – roast chicken, stews and casseroles – for which there is rarely a traditional Irish recipe as every family has their own. Despite only arriving in Dublin when she was 19, my mother seemed to quickly master the Irish flavours and cooking techniques. Recipes such as St Patrick’s Day Bacon with Parsley Sauce and Cabbage Purée and Irish Stew with Pearl Barley were a regular feature of my childhood. Looking back on it now, I am so appreciative of the fact that I got to sit down at the table to enjoy these meals with my family and catch up on what had happened during the day. It’s the one thing that my husband, Isaac, and I insist on now with our children – for me it’s one of the most important times of the day.

I’m also very appreciative of the fact that as a child, family holidays often took us abroad. By visiting different countries, I was introduced to a wealth of different foods and flavours. So it felt right to include a few dishes inspired by these memories – Mussels with Tomato, Chorizo, Sherry and Parsley, for example, and Tomato Risotto with Lemon and Basil Mascarpone.

Although my mother has lived in Dublin since marrying my father, she grew up in Iceland. Life in Reykjavik in the 1940s was, of course, very different from what it is now. Mum and her family lived close to the docks, which was where they would go to get their just-caught fish and also smoked fish, which was prepared as soon as it came in from the boats and was very popular because nobody had fridges. Being an island nation with not a huge amount of vegetation, fish featured a lot in their diet, much more so than meat, though if there was meat it was lamb. Even with a mainly fish diet, my mum remembers that children were all given cod liver oil in school every day as a supplement!

One of my favourite Icelandic foods that Mum often used to eat and we enjoyed on holidays in Iceland is harðfiskur – the salted dried fish. I can still remember we used to eat it cold, spread with salted butter, as did Mum when she was young. It’s still really popular there and although it’s more often eaten as a snack, it is sometimes heated in soups and stews. I tried to make it recently at home in County Cork, but it just didn’t match up to the authentic Icelandic version, which is dried in the North Atlantic sea breeze. I guess I’ll just have to wait for my next trip to Iceland until I have some more. Breakfast for my mum before she would skate across the Tjörnin lake in the middle of Reykjavik to get to school in wintertime was a bowl of sfyr, which is a bit like a Greek yoghurt, but is technically a cheese (as described on here). Mum remembers it being incredibly thick in the tub, so it would be thinned out with milk. In the wintertime it was scattered with cinnamon sugar and during the long, bright summers, they would enjoy it with berries. These were mainly blueberries that they’d picked at the weekend when visiting their relatives in the countryside, where they would also go camping, ride ponies and, in the wintertime, ski. The dairy where they used to buy skyr was next door to the bakery where my mum’s favourite treat of all came from – vinabroð. These are gorgeous little delicacies made with puff pastry and an almond or custard topping, and Mum still remembers how they were always wrapped in baking parchment for her and her little sister to bring back home. One of the most popular Icelandic pastries still is kleinur, but Mum remembers these were more often than not made at home, as being deep-fried they need to be eaten as soon as they’re made. My amma (Icelandic for grandmother – my mum’s mum) used to make these for Grandpa, as he adored them, like my children do now. Unfortunately I never got Amma’s kleinur recipe from her, but my version, which is hopefully does justice to hers.

I get such pleasure when I see my children enjoying really good food, whether it’s fish that they’ve caught, filleted and cooked themselves, shrimps that my daughter learnt how to peel and demolish by the dozen from her great-grandmother, or the seeds that they’ve planted and watched turn into sweet, crunchy carrots or cucumbers. I hope that they’ll get the opportunity to teach and inspire future generations, passing on the appreciation and joy that there is to be had from great food.

As well as chatting to my own mum about the food that she loved as a child, I’ve been lucky enough to get wonderful stories and recipes from some of my friends, and indeed my mother-in-law Darina, about the food that was cooked for them by their mothers.

Thanks to all my friends who offered not only recipes but inspiration too: from Patricia for her tales of weekly liver with onions; Helen with her mother’s delicious apple cake recipe, which I’ve tweaked to feature plums; Nessa, whose mother Margaret lent me her precious three-generation-old handwritten cookbook; Fingal and his mum Giana for the wonderful stories and many emails; and Pam for the lovely tip of using breadcrumbs in a crumble like her mum Sheila did and still does. Thanks to Ted and his mum Charlotte for the delicious Swedish seed crackers recipe, to Lara for many wonderful stories about her childhood and her love of food in Iceland, and to Jasper, Tiffany and their mum Julia, who so generously gave me more wonderful recipes than I had space for.

I hope that you too enjoy the recipes in this book and feel inspired to pass them down to the next generation.

Skyr

MAKES ABOUT ¾ LITRE

Skyr is one of the Icelandic tastes of my childhood. Otherwise known as Icelandic curds, skyr is an age-old recipe dating back to the ninth century. It’s often compared to Greek yoghurt, but strictly speaking it is a cheese – thicker than yoghurt with a slight cheesy tang. It’s delicious, and is sometimes served with a little cream and brown sugar or, as I remember it, a splash of milk and a sprinkle of sugar. My sister and I used to have milk and sugar over natural yoghurt at home in Dublin to try to replicate the flavour. Making your own skyr is not unlike making yoghurt, although often a couple of drops of rennet are added and the ‘set’ milk is cut and strained to release the whey from the curds. Skyr can be left plain or flavoured with honey, coffee, vanilla and even herbs such as mint, rosemary and thyme. Homemade skyr will keep, covered, in the fridge for one week.

1 litre (1¾ pints) full-cream milk (I like to use an organic unpasteurised milk if possible, but other milk can be used)

1 tbsp skyr, from a previous batch if possible or shop bought (failing that, use a live active culture yoghurt)

2 drops of rennet or vegetable rennet (optional)

1. Place the milk in a saucepan over a very low heat and warm it slowly until it reaches 90°C (195°F). This should take 1 hour. Take it off the heat and set aside, at room temperature, to cool until it reaches 40°C (105°C) – 30 minutes. If this step is done too quickly, it could affect the setting of the skyr.

2. Add 1 tablespoon skyr (or yoghurt) and whisk to combine, making sure not to scrape the bottom of the pot. Next, stir in the rennet, if using. Place a lid on the saucepan and wrap it with two tea towels, then leave to stand at room temperature for 12–15 hours (a few more hours will probably be ok if you have to leave the house, but definitely not more than 24 hours).

3. By this stage, the milk should have thickened and you should notice the see-through whey separating from the brilliant white curds. Place a clean piece of muslin or cheesecloth in a sieve set over a bowl. Using a clean knife, cut the curds into a grid-shape, then tip into the lined sieve. Tie the material into a knot or tie with string, then hang the bundle from a hook or a wooden spoon stuck through the knot and suspend it over the bowl, removing the sieve. The fabric should not be touching the whey that’s dripping off it into the bowl. If your kitchen is quite warm, hang the skyr in the fridge.

4. Leave to hang for 2 hours or until the mixture in the bundle is quite thick and almost beginning to dry at the edges. If it’s too dry, whisk in some of the whey to thin it out. It should be thicker than Greek yoghurt, but not as thick as cream cheese. Once it’s thick enough, it can be eaten straight away or covered (flavoured or not) and placed in the fridge for up to a week. You can drink the nutrition-packed whey if you like.

Crunchy granola

MAKES ABOUT 1.5KG (3LB 5OZ) GRANOLA

A deliciously crunchy, nutty start to the day. Make this recipe your own by adding your favourite seeds, nuts or dried fruit.

125g (4½oz) butter or coconut oil

150ml (5fl oz) honey or maple or agave syrup

1 tsp vanilla extract

500g (1lb 2oz) oat flakes

100g (3½oz) almonds (preferably with skin), coarsely chopped

100g (3½oz) chopped hazelnuts

100g (3½oz) desiccated coconut

100g (3½oz) pumpkin or hemp seeds

100g (3½oz) sunflower seeds

300g (11oz) dried fruit (such as chopped dried dates, figs, apricots, raisins or sultanas – I like a mixture)

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas mark 3. Place the butter or coconut oil, the honey or syrup and the vanilla extract in a small saucepan and put on the heat to melt together.

2. Next, place the oat flakes, almonds, hazelnuts, desiccated coconut, pumpkin or hemp seeds and the sunflower seeds in a large bowl and mix. Add the melted butter (or coconut oil) and syrup mixture and stir really well to make sure it’s evenly combined.

3. Spread the mixture out in a large roasting tin, lined with baking parchment, if you like (but it’s not essential), and bake in the oven for 25 minutes or until the nuts and grains are a light golden brown. Stir the granola every 5 minutes so that it browns evenly in the oven.

4. Once brown, remove the granola from the oven and leave in the tray to cool, again stirring every now and then, scraping it from the bottom of the tray. If you transfer it into a bowl while it’s warm, it will go soggy.

5. When it has cooled down, mix in the dried fruit and cinnamon. Transfer to an airtight container and store at room temperature. It will keep well for up to one month.

How to make butter and buttermilk

MAKES ABOUT 225G (8OZ) BUTTER

If you’ve ever over-whipped cream, you’ve been on your way to making butter. We make butter every day at the Ballymaloe cookery school and people are often really surprised at how easy it is. You can flavour it how you like, too – with herbs, spices or seaweed.

1 litre (1¾ pints) regular or double cream

2 pinches of sea salt, or dairy salt (if you can get it)

your favourite flavourings – chopped herbs, garlic, dried seaweed, icing sugar or spices (optional)

1. Pour the cream into the bowl of a food mixer and, using the whisk, whip the cream for 5–10 minutes on a medium-high speed (but not so high that it splashes everywhere) until it starts to split (as if you’ve over-beaten it). Continue to beat until the yellow fat separates from the buttermilk (you can use this buttermilk for baking). It will look completely scrambled.

2. Sit a sieve over a large, clean bowl. Place a double layer of muslin in the sieve – you’ll need it to be larger than the sieve as you want to be able to gather up the edges – then pour the contents of the food mixer bowl into it. With the muslin still in the sieve, bring up the edges and squeeze really hard to remove all the buttermilk. When all the buttermilk has been squeezed out, place the butter that remains in the muslin in a bowl and wash well in cold water, squeezing it well to remove every last bit of buttermilk. If you don’t do this the butter will go rancid after a couple of days.

3. Now pat the butter dry with kitchen paper, put it into a bowl and mix in the salt and any other flavourings you like, such as chopped herbs, garlic, dried seaweed, or even icing sugar and spice for melting over pancakes.

4. Shape the butter into a sausage shape by rolling it up in baking parchment, or into a rectangle, or whatever shape you like. You can also place it in a mould that you’ve lined with muslin, if you have one. When you’re happy with the flavour and the shape of your butter, place it in the fridge until needed. It will keep for 10–12 days if you’ve washed it free of all the buttermilk.

How to make yoghurt

MAKES 1 LITRE (1¾ PINTS) YOGHURT

Yoghurt is fun and easy to make and allows you to flavour it how you like. I love the unsweetened tang and slightly irregular texture that comes from a homemade version.

1 litre (1¾ pints) full-cream milk

25g (1oz) skimmed milk powder

1 tbsp natural yoghurt, live active culture yoghurt will work best (see tip)

1. Pour the milk into a saucepan and set on a gentle heat. As the milk begins to warm up, add the milk powder and stir to dissolve. Heat the milk until it reads 90°C (194°F) on a cooking thermometer. (If judging by eye, the milk will be sweet-smelling and just coming to the boil – steaming and starting to froth around the edges.) Remove from the heat and leave to stand and cool for 30 minutes or until it reads 40°C (104°F) on the thermometer (or the milk has stopped steaming and feels just tepid when you dip your finger in and leave it there for a few seconds).

2. Stir in the yoghurt, cover the pan with a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place (or in a flask) until the mixture thickens – which will take 4–5 hours.

3. After this time, remove the tea towel and transfer the yoghurt to a jar or bowl, then cover and place in the fridge overnight.

TIP

For your next batch of yoghurt you can use 1 tablespoon of this homemade yoghurt instead of the shop-bought yoghurt.

Scrambled eggs back in the shell

SERVES 1

This is a cute way to give scrambled eggs to little ones. I think the best scrambled eggs are cooked slowly over a low heat until almost set but still creamy, then taken out of the pan straight away to avoid overcooking.

1–2 eggs, as preferred

1 tsp regular or double cream

a little knob of butter

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

hot buttered toast

1. Using either an egg topper or a little knife or spoon, carefully open the egg at the top as you would a boiled egg. Pour the egg into a saucepan and add the cream and butter, season with salt and pepper and beat well with a fork or whisk. Place the empty eggshell in an eggcup (see tip).

2. Scramble the egg over a low heat, stirring all the time. When the egg is just cooked but still soft and a bit runny, spoon it carefully back into the eggshell. Serve with a teaspoon and lots of hot buttered toast.

TIP

You can rinse the eggshell and dry it in the oven, if you wish. Place it, cut side down, on kitchen paper in a very cool oven, preheated to 100°C (212°F), Gas mark ¼ for 10 minutes.

Sweet eggy bread

SERVES 4

Sweet, comforting and completely delicious, one taste of this brings me back to my childhood in an instant.

2 large eggs

4 tbsp regular or double cream

1–2 tbsp caster sugar, to taste

1 tsp vanilla extract or ½ tsp ground cinnamon

a little pinch of sea salt

50g (2oz) butter

4 large slices of white, wholemeal or sourdough bread

To serve

maple syrup, crispy bacon slices or icing sugar

1. In a bowl large enough to dip slices of bread into, whisk the eggs, cream, sugar and vanilla extract or cinnamon powder together with a pinch of salt.

2. Melt a knob of the butter in a frying pan over a medium-high heat until foaming. Dip both sides of a slice of bread into the egg mixture and then fry on both sides, adding more butter as needed, until golden. Keep warm in a low oven while you repeat with the remaining bread.

3. Repeat until all the slices of bread are fried. Serve drizzled with maple syrup and slices of crispy bacon or dusted with icing sugar.

Buckwheat crêpes with ham, cheese and eggs

SERVES 6

I love the nuttiness (and added nutrition) that buckwheat flour brings to these crêpes. This makes for a superb brunch or supper.

For the batter

100g (3½oz) buckwheat flour

½ tsp sea salt

1 egg

200ml (7fl oz) milk

40g (1½oz) butter, melted

For the filling

200g (7oz) Gruyère, Emmental or Comté cheese, grated

6 slices of best-quality ham

a little butter, for frying

6 eggs

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. First, make the batter. Mix the flour and salt together in a bowl. Put the egg, milk and melted butter into a measuring jug, add 100ml (3½fl oz) water and whisk. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients, then pour the liquid into the well, whisking all the time to gradually draw in the flour from the edges of the bowl, until you have a smooth batter with a few bubbles on top. Use straight away, or it can store in the fridge for up to 24 hours.

2. Preheat the grill to medium or the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 (see tip).

3. Heat a frying pan (ovenproof if you’re using the oven). Rub a piece of kitchen paper in the butter and wipe it over the base of the pan – do this each time you put in a new batch of batter. Pour in some of the batter and swirl it around to coat the base of the pan with a thin layer. Allow to fry until it sets and is golden underneath, then flip it over and immediately place a slice of ham in the centre of the crêpe. Cover the ham with grated cheese, leaving a little dip in the middle, and break the egg into the dip. Fold up the edges of the pancake to meet the edge of the egg white, then place the pan under the grill or in the oven until the cheese has melted and the egg is cooked. Repeat for all the other crêpes, serving each finished one at once.

TIP

You can either make all the crêpes first then fill and bake them one at a time, or if you have two pans and a bit of nerve, you can leave one pan cooking the finished crêpe in the oven while the other is cooking the batter on the hob.

Potato pancakes with black pudding and glazed apples

MAKES 12 PANCAKES

A great way to use up leftover potatoes, these little pancakes are almost blini-like and I adore the meaty black pudding and sweet, sticky glazed apple topping. Another great topping for these pancakes is the Beetroot, Dill and Horseradish Gravlax with Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise.

For the pancakes

75g (3oz) plain flour

½ tsp baking powder

½ tsp sea salt

2 eggs

125ml (4½fl oz) milk

225g (8oz) cold mashed potato (no butter or milk added)

15g (½oz) butter, for frying

For the glazed apples

40g (1½oz) butter

2 eating apples, peeled, quartered, cored and cut into 5mm (¼in) slices

30g (1¼oz) caster sugar

juice of ½ lemon

For the sage butter

50g (2oz) butter

2 tsp chopped sage

For the black pudding

15g (½oz) butter

about 24 slices (cut 7.5mm/⅜in thick) black pudding (2 per pancake) – peel the skin off the black pudding before slicing

1. First, make the pancakes. Sift the flour and baking powder into a bowl, add the salt and mix. Crack the eggs into another bowl and whisk, then mix in the milk and mashed potato. Pour this into the dry ingredients, whisking as you add it. Set aside.

2. Heat a pan over a medium heat. Rub a piece of kitchen paper in the butter and wipe it over the base of the pan – do this each time you put in a new batch of batter. When the pan is hot, drop generous tablespoonfuls of the batter, spaced apart, in the pan. Cook for 2 minutes until golden underneath, then turn over and cook the other side until golden. Remove from the pan and keep them warm while you make the others.

3. Meanwhile, place a pan (another frying pan if you have one) over a medium-high heat and add the butter for the glazed apples. Allow it to melt and foam, then tip in the apple slices and spread them out. Toss them over the heat for a few minutes until they are light golden, then add the sugar and lemon juice and continue to toss until the apples are tender and beautifully glazed. Keep warm.

4. In a small saucepan, melt the butter for the sage butter and add the sage. Allow it to foam, then take the pan off the heat.

5. To cook the black pudding slices, place a frying pan over a medium-high heat and add the butter. Add the black pudding slices and fry until they are cooked on both sides and hot inside.

6. Divide the warm pancakes among warm plates. Top each pancake with a few glazed apple slices, then 2 slices of black pudding and, finally, a drizzle of hot sage butter.

Cheese and bacon muffins

MAKES 12 MUFFINS

These great savoury muffins are just crying out to be packed up and taken on a picnic. I often use a mixture of leftover delicious farmhouse cheeses in these, which ensures they’re slightly different every time I make them.

150g (5oz) streaky bacon rashers

225g (8oz) plain flour

2 tsp baking powder

1 tbsp caster sugar

1 tsp sea salt

pinch of freshly ground black pepper

125g (4½oz) cheese, grated (I like a mixture of Cheddar, Gruyère and Parmesan)

1 egg

75g (3oz) butter, melted

225ml (8fl oz) milk

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas mark 5. Line a 12-cup muffin tray with 12 paper cases.

2. Cook the bacon rashers in a frying pan over a medium heat until golden and crisp on both sides. Chop into pieces 1cm (½in) in size.

3. Sift the flour and the baking powder into a bowl. Add the sugar, salt and pepper, then mix in the grated cheese and crisp bacon pieces. Whisk the egg in another bowl and mix in the melted butter, the milk and the mustard. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and stir in the wet ingredients until combined.

4. Divide the mixture among the 12 paper cases and bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes until golden and a skewer comes out clean from the centre of a muffin. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

Banana pancakes

MAKES ABOUT 12 PANCAKES

Our boys loved these when they were little, and they still love them now. The bananas are great for adding natural sweetness and, of course, nutrition-packed goodness, too.

150g (5oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

¼ tsp bread soda (bicarbonate of soda)

1 tbsp caster sugar (optional)

2 eggs

150ml (5fl oz) buttermilk

25g (1oz) butter, melted

1 large or 1½ medium bananas, peeled and mashed just before using

a few knobs of butter

butter or maple syrup, to serve

1. Sift the flour, baking powder and bread soda into a bowl. Add the caster sugar (if using) and stir to mix.

2. Crack the eggs into another bowl and whisk, then stir in the buttermilk and melted butter. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour the liquid into the dry ingredients, whisking as you add it. The batter is ready to use or can be stored in the fridge overnight.

3. Just before you want to cook the pancakes, fold the mashed bananas into the batter.

4. Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat and melt a couple of knobs of butter, making sure the base of the pan is covered with a thin layer of butter. I normally wipe the butter all over the pan with some kitchen paper, which I’ll use to re-butter the pan for each batch of pancakes.

5. Drop large spoonfuls (about 50ml/2fl oz each) of the pancake batter into the hot pan – leave plenty of space between them as the pancakes spread while cooking. Turn the heat down slightly or the pancakes will burn before they’re cooked in the centre. You should be able to fit four or five in the pan at a time. Cook on the first side until bubbles appear and pop on the upper surface – 1–2 minutes – then, using a fish slice or something similar, turn the pancakes over and finish cooking on the other side for another minute or so until golden brown. Cook all the pancakes in this way in a few batches, keeping the cooked ones warm in a low oven until they are all ready. Serve with butter or maple syrup – or both.

Kedgeree

SERVES 6–8

My friend Helen, who grew up in England with an Irish father and a mother from New Zealand, says that the taste of kedgeree will always bring her back, in an instant, to when she was little, sitting round the table with her family having brunch. It’s a great recipe for feeding a crowd and, of course, it’s good at any time of the day. This curried rice dish, made with delicious fresh or smoked fish, hard-boiled eggs and lots of intensely green parsley, is inspired by Helen’s mum’s recipe. Thanks, Beth!

450g (1lb) white or brown basmati rice

15g (½oz) butter

500g (1lb 2oz) smoked haddock (you could smoke your own as on here), skinned, deboned and cut into 2.5–5cm (1–2in) chunks

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

2 tsp ground cumin

2 tsp ground coriander

¼ tsp ground turmeric

pinch of cayenne pepper

½ tsp garam masala

8 eggs

225g (8oz) fresh or frozen peas

75ml (3fl oz) regular or double cream

2 tbsp chopped parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add the rice with a good pinch of salt and cook over a medium heat, stirring from time to time, until tender – be careful not to overcook it or it will go mushy. White basmati rice will take only 10–12 minutes, while brown basmati rice will take 25–30 minutes to cook.

2. Place the butter in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and allow to melt and foam. Add the smoked fish pieces and 1 tablespoon water. Season with black pepper, turn the heat down slightly and cook, tossing regularly, until the fish is just opaque, 4–5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, place a large frying pan over a high heat and heat the olive oil until hot, then add the sliced onions and sauté for 5 minutes, tossing regularly, until almost softened and golden at the edges. Add the ground cumin and coriander, the turmeric, cayenne pepper and garam masala. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pan with a lid and continue to cook the onions until they are completely softened, 5–8 minutes.

4. While the onions are cooking, bring a pot of water up to the boil, gently drop in the eggs and boil for just 6 or 7 minutes, depending on the size. When they are cooked, drain and pour cold water over them to stop them cooking. Once they are almost cool, peel the eggs, handling them gently as they’ll be slightly soft in the centre.

5. Drop the peas into a pan of boiling water and boil for just 2 minutes or until cooked.

6. Once everything is cooked, you can assemble the dish. Add the drained rice and peas to the onions in the frying pan over a low heat and stir to mix. Carefully stir in the fish with any lovely juices. Pour in the cream and half the chopped parsley and mix gently, then season with salt and pepper to taste.

7. Transfer to a wide, shallow serving bowl. Cut the eggs into quarters and arrange on top and around the sides, then sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley and serve.

Devilled kidneys

SERVES 4–6

A classic Victorian British breakfast dish, this would set you up for the day – and then some! Of course, it’s great at any other time of the day, too, if kidneys are too hardcore for your morning ritual.

2 tbsp plain flour

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

¼ tsp grated nutmeg

1 tbsp sherry vinegar

1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1½ tsp Dijon mustard

90ml (3½fl oz) chicken stock

175ml (6fl oz) regular or double cream

25g (1oz) butter

6 lamb’s kidneys, peeled, halved, all membranes removed, fat snipped from core, cut into 6 pieces (3 from each half)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

hot buttered toast or buttery mash

1. Mix the flour, cayenne pepper, nutmeg and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in a bowl and set aside.

2. In another bowl, combine the vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, chicken stock and cream, then set aside.

3. Heat the butter in a pan over a high heat. Toss the kidneys in the flour mix and, when the butter is foaming, cook the kidneys, turning them so that they brown on all sides. Next, pour in the cream mixture and allow it to bubble and thicken.

4. Serve on hot buttered toast or with buttery mashed potatoes.

Chicken stock

MAKES 1.5–2 LITRES (2½–3½ PINTS) STOCK

I always have a pot of chicken stock on the go. When you’re using good chickens for roasting or braising, it’s crazy not to boil up the bones afterwards. There’s an old South American proverb that says, ‘Good broth will resurrect the dead,’ and it’s not far wrong as the nutritional content of a homemade stock indeed has miraculous qualities if eaten regularly. Our great-grandmothers were right after all.

1 whole chicken carcass, raw or cooked

1 large leek, cut into 4 pieces

2 celery sticks, each cut into 4 pieces

2 carrots, each cut into 4 pieces

2–4 garlic cloves, to taste, peeled

1 bouquet garni (a few sprigs of parsley, 1 or 2 sprigs of thyme and a small bay leaf)

a few black peppercorns

pinch of sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Place the chicken bones in a roasting tin and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. The roasting stage is optional but I love the slightly stronger, more enhanced flavour that it gives the final broth.

2. Once the bones are roasted (see tips), transfer them to a large saucepan and add the leek, celery, carrots and garlic cloves. Pop in the bouquet garni and black peppercorns, then cover generously with cold water – adding about 2 litres (3½pints). The water must be cold since, while it’s slowly heating up, it will draw the flavour and goodness out of the vegetables and the bones.

3. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 2 hours, skimming off and discarding any foam that rises to the surface.

4. Once it’s cooked, strain the broth through a fine sieve, then leave to stand to allow the fat to rise to the top. Skim off the fat and season the broth with salt to taste.

TIPS

If there are any bits of meat or little caramelised nuggets of flavour stuck to the roasting tin after cooking the chicken bones, place the tray over a medium heat on the hob, pour in a small glass of water and, using a whisk, scrape to dissolve the bits. Pour these into the saucepan too.

I’ve found that if I leave the fat sitting on top of the stock while it’s in the fridge there are two added bonuses – once the fat is chilled it’s far easier to lift it off the stock; and the stock keeps for longer (a few weeks rather than just a few days) in the fridge if completely covered in the fat. Remove the fat before use.

Chicken noodle broth

SERVES 6–8

I remember many versions of this broth while growing up – I don’t think it was ever the same twice. Mum seemed to constantly have a delicious chicken stock on the go, which always went into this most restorative of soups – a hug in a bowl.

1.6 litres (2¾ pints) chicken stock, well strained

4 garlic cloves, finely sliced

160g (5½oz) spaghetti, broken into 2.5cm (1in) lengths

4 tbsp chopped parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Put the chicken stock, garlic and spaghetti into a saucepan and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover and bring to a gentle boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 8–10 minutes until the spaghetti is cooked (or cook for the length of time specified on the packet).

2. When the spaghetti is cooked, stir in the parsley, check the seasoning and serve.

Chicken broth with chilli and ginger

SERVES 4

1.2 litres (2 pints) cold chicken or vegetable stock, well strained

20 large sprigs of coriander or flat-leaf parsley, stalks and leaves separated

½–1 red chilli, to taste, finely sliced (leave the seeds in if you dare!)

2cm (¾ inch) piece of fresh ginger, finely sliced

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Put the cold stock in a saucepan and add the coriander or parsley stalks (keep the leaves for serving), sliced chilli, ginger and a little salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then taste and add more seasoning, if you like.

2. Ladle into warm bowls or cups and serve scattered with the coriander or parsley leaves – whole or chopped, whichever you prefer.

Chicken dumpling soup

SERVES 4

A twist on the age-old Asian dumpling soup, this is deeply satisfying and wonderfully restorative. The better the chicken stock, the better the soup.

300g (11oz) minced chicken (thigh is best but breast works fine too)

1 small garlic clove, crushed

2 tbsp chopped parsley

¼ tsp grated nutmeg

60g (2½oz) spring onions, white parts finely chopped and green parts sliced at an angle, kept separate

a little oil

1.5 litres (2½ pints) chicken stock

handful of broken spaghetti (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the minced chicken in a bowl and add the garlic, parsley, ¼teaspoon salt, the nutmeg and a twist of black pepper. Add the white parts of the spring onions and mix well to combine. Break off a small piece of the mixture and fry it in a little oil, then taste it and adjust the seasoning if needed.

2. With wet hands, shape the minced chicken into 20 equal-sized dumplings. Set aside in the fridge while you prepare your chicken broth.

3. Pour the stock into a saucepan, add salt and pepper if necessary, and bring it to the boil. Add the chicken dumplings and bring to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes to cook the dumplings through. (If you want to make this soup more substantial, add a handful of broken spaghetti strands and cook with the stock and the dumplings.)

4. Add the green parts of the spring onions for the last minute of cooking. Divide the broth and the dumplings among four bowls and serve.

Chorizo, bean and kale broth

SERVES 6

I have a problem with chorizo, in that I cannot get enough of the stuff. It has an amazing ability to give its characteristic kick to everything – from chicken and shellfish to pulses and grains. This is the kind of chunky soup that I adore; full of flavour and bursting with goodness.

125g (4½oz) dried borlotti beans, haricot or butter beans (or use 250g/9oz tinned beans, drained and rinsed)

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 red onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 celery stick, chopped

1 garlic clove, chopped

110g (4oz) chorizo, skin removed, cut into dice

200g (7oz) tomatoes, chopped

1.2 litres (2 pints) chicken or vegetable stock

75g (3oz) de-stalked kale, roughly chopped

1 tbsp chopped parsley

1 tbsp chopped rosemary

pinch of grated nutmeg

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

crusty bread

1. First prepare the beans, if using dried beans. Soak the dried beans in plenty of cold water overnight. The next day, drain and place in a pan of fresh cold water and boil for 45–60 minutes until tender. Drain and set aside.

2. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic with a pinch of salt and pepper. Sweat for 15 minutes with the lid on until the onion is soft but not coloured.

3. Add the diced chorizo, replace the lid and continue to cook for a further 5 minutes to let the oils run out.

4. Next, add the freshly cooked or drained tinned beans and tomatoes, cover and cook for a further 5 minutes. Then, add the stock, bring to the boil, then simmer for 5 minutes more.

5. Finally, add the kale, parsley, rosemary and nutmeg, and cook, uncovered, for 5–10 minutes until the kale is tender. The cooking time will depend on the time of year, as young kale cooks quicker. Serve with crusty bread.

Oxtail and pearl barley soup

SERVES 4–6

A deeply satisfying meal in a bowl, this is the very essence of comfort food. Hearty, nutritious and frugal to boot, what’s not to love?

90g (3¼oz) pearl barley

25g (1oz) butter

1 oxtail, about 1kg (2lb 3oz), cut into pieces 4–6cm (1½–2in) long, cut through the ‘knuckles’

3 carrots, cut into large chunks

1 leek, cut into large chunks

2 celery sticks, cut into large chunks

1 large or 2 small onions, cut into large chunks

3 garlic cloves, halved

100ml (3½fl oz) red wine

4 tbsp sherry vinegar

1 bouquet garni (a few sprigs of parsley, 1 or 2 sprigs of thyme and a small bay leaf)

2 tbsp tomato purée

good pinch of salt

15 peppercorns

4 tbsp chopped parsley

juice of ¼ lemon

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2. Put the pearl barley into a heatproof bowl and pour in 270ml (9½fl oz) boiling water to cover. Set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a large casserole over a medium heat. Add the chunks of oxtail and brown on all sides, then transfer to a bowl or plate. Brown the vegetables and garlic, then pour in the wine and vinegar and scrape up the dark caramelised bits with a wooden spoon. Return the oxtail to the casserole. Next, pour in 1.5 litres (2½ pints) water and add the bouquet garni, tomato purée, salt and peppercorns. Bring to the boil, then transfer to the oven, or simmer very gently on the hob, for 3–3½ hours until the meat is falling off the bone. Carefully remove the pieces of oxtail from the casserole and put on a tray to cool slightly.

3. Meanwhile, strain the vegetables and discard, then strain the cooking liquor into another heatproof bowl. Clean the casserole and pour in the strained liquid. Allow to stand until the fat rises to the top, then skim it off. Strain the pearl barley and add it to the skimmed liquid.

4. It’s a bit fiddly, but pick all the meat from the cooled oxtail bones and discard the bones and fat. This takes a little while but it is worth it. Pull the meat apart with your fingers then add the shreds to the casserole with the skimmed liquid and pearl barley and cook for 45 minutes over a medium heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

5. Stir in the parsley and lemon juice, then serve immediately.

Salmon, smoked haddock and pea chowder

SERVES 4–6

A chowder is a great way to make a little fish go a long way, and smoked haddock brings its own lovely richness. This is delicious served with Sue’s Oatmeal Bread.

50g (2oz) butter

120g (4oz) leeks, halved lengthways, then cut into 5mm (¼in) slices

150g (5oz) spring onions, green and white parts sliced, kept separate

600g (1lb 5oz) potatoes, cut into 1cm (½in) dice

1 litre(1¾ pints) light chicken, fish or vegetable stock

120g (4oz) smoked haddock fillet, cut into 1–2cm (½–¾in) chunks

200g (7oz) salmon fillet, cut into 1–2cm (½–¾in) chunks

100g (3½oz) peas

50ml (2fl oz) regular or double cream

3 tbsp chopped parsley

1. Melt the butter in a large pan and add the leeks, the white parts of the spring onions and the potatoes. Cook over a low heat for 10 minutes or until the leeks and spring onions are soft but not coloured.

2. Add the stock and bring it to the boil, then turn down and simmer for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are soft.

3. Add the smoked haddock, salmon, peas and the green parts of the spring onions. Cook for a further 5 minutes, then add the cream and chopped parsley and cook for a further 2–3 minutes. Serve piping hot.

Crab and sweetcorn chowder

SERVES 4–6

A chowder is more than just a soup, it’s a meal in a bowl, and this version with delicious sweet-salty crabmeat and corn is a keeper. Needless to say, the better the crabmeat, the more delicious this will be. If you can get hold of some brown crabmeat along with the white, the flavour will be even better.

30g (1¼oz) butter

200g (7oz) onions, cut into 1cm (½in) dice

2 garlic cloves, chopped

300g (11oz) potatoes, cut into 1cm (½in) dice

600ml (1 pint) hot chicken, fish or vegetable stock

200g (7oz) sweetcorn kernels

200ml (7fl oz) milk

150g (5oz) white crabmeat

pinch of cayenne pepper

1 tbsp lemon juice

2 tbsp chopped parsley

2 tsp chopped tarragon

50ml (2fl oz) regular or double cream

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

fresh bread

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a gentle heat, then add the onions and garlic with a little salt and pepper. Cover and allow to sweat until soft but not coloured. Add the potatoes and cook for a further 5–10 minutes, stirring occasionally so that they don’t brown.

2. Next, add the stock, sweetcorn and milk, and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the potatoes are cooked through and are just beginning to thicken the soup.

3. Finally, add the crabmeat, cayenne pepper, lemon juice, chopped herbs and cream. Bring the chowder back up to a gentle simmer, then serve with lots of lovely bread.

Wild garlic soup

SERVES 6

A vibrant green soup that makes you feel good just looking at it, not to mention eating it! Use the wide-leaf wild garlic, ramson, or the three-cornered leek with the narrow leaves, both in season in spring. At other times of the year, or if you can’t get hold of any wild garlic, you can replace it with watercress, young nettles (wear gloves when harvesting – the sting will go once cooked!), spinach, kale or chard.

25g (1oz) butter

2 potatoes, diced

1 onion, chopped

1 litre(1¾ pints) chicken or vegetable stock

2 large handfuls of wild garlic leaves, roughly chopped

110ml (4fl oz) regular or double cream

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

crusty bread

1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. When foaming, add the potatoes and onion, and toss in the butter until well coated, then season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat down, cover the pan and cook for 10 minutes or until the vegetables are soft, stirring regularly so that the vegetables don’t stick and burn.

2. Next, add the stock and bring to a rolling boil, then add the wild garlic leaves and cook for 2 minutes or until the leaves have wilted. Don’t overcook the soup at this stage or it will lose its fresh green colour and flavour.

3. Immediately pour into a blender and whiz until smooth, then return to the clean pan, stir in the cream and taste for seasoning.

4. Serve hot with crusty bread.

Beetroot soup with chives

SERVES 8–10

I remember my mum started making beetroot soup for dinner parties in the 1980s and back then I thought the vivid pink concoction was the epitome of chic. I still do, and love it that something so stunningly pretty can be that good for you.

900g (2lb) whole raw beetroot

25g (1oz) butter

225g (8oz) onions, chopped

1.2 litres (2 pints) chicken or vegetable stock

110ml (4fl oz) cream or milk, or a mixture

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

110g (4oz) sour cream or crème fraîche

2 tbsp finely chopped chives

1. Remove the leaves from the beetroot (use these for another recipe), then cut off most of the stalk, leaving about 2cm (¾in) still attached to the root. Leave the tails of the beetroot intact. Wash the beetroot carefully under a cold tap. Do not scrub them – simply rub off any dirt with your fingers. You don’t want to damage the skin or to cut off the top or tails, otherwise the beetroot will ‘bleed’ while cooking, losing important nutrients.

2. Place the beetroot in a saucepan and cover with cold water and a pinch of salt. Place over a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cover, then continue to simmer for 30 minutes–2 hours, depending on the size and age of your beetroot. They are cooked when their skins rub off easily and a knife just slides into the centre.

3. While the beetroot cooks, melt the butter in a large saucepan over a low heat. When melted, add the onions and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook for 8–10 minutes until soft but not coloured.

4. When the beetroot is cooked, rub off the skins and discard, then cut into chunks. Add to the onions with the stock. Bring to a rolling boil, then pour into a blender and whiz until it is quite smooth (be careful, beetroot will stain). Return to the pan over a medium heat, stir in the cream and/or milk, then taste and adjust the seasoning.

5. Serve hot, topped with a spoonful of sour cream or crème fraîche and a scattering of chives.

Almost-instant tomato and basil soup

SERVES 4

A delicious fresh-tasting soup that’s super-quick to make, this is like summer in a bowl. Like many soups, it can be frozen, too, for a taste of summer in any season!

25g (1oz) butter

125g (4½oz) white parts of spring onions, chopped (keep the green tops for another recipe)

1 garlic clove, chopped

400g (14oz) very ripe tomatoes, chopped or 1 × 400g tin chopped tomatoes

generous pinch of sugar

400ml (14fl oz) hot vegetable or chicken stock

50ml (2fl oz) regular or double cream

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

1 tbsp chopped basil or 4 tsp basil pesto

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, then add the spring onions and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan and sweat the onions for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and sugar. Turn up the heat and bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the stock, bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Add the cream and simmer for just 1 minute.

2. Transfer to a blender and whiz really well. Pour the soup through a fine sieve into a clean pan and gently reheat but do not boil the soup.

3. To serve, stir in the chopped basil or drizzle the basil pesto over each bowl.

Warm salad of hot-smoked duck, glazed navettes and toasted hazelnuts

SERVES 4

Duck reacts so well to a bit of hot smoke – the rich flavour of the meat is enhanced by its full-bodied aroma and the lovely layer of fat under the skin ensures the meat does not dry out during smoking. The little white turnips, called navettes, end up tender and coated in a delicious glaze set against the welcome crunch of the hazelnuts.

32 hazelnuts, chopped into 2 or 3 pieces and toasted (see tip)

4 navettes (small white turnips), cut into 6 or 8 wedges

15g (½oz) butter

2 duck breasts

4 good handfuls of bitter greens (watercress, rocket, mustard leaf, frisée)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the dressing

1 tbsp good-quality sherry vinegar

3 tbsp hazelnut or walnut oil

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1. Place all the dressing ingredients in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and whisk well to combine. Set aside.

2. Place the navettes in a flameproof casserole or small saucepan. Add 3 tablespoons water and the butter, and season with salt and pepper. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook for 20 minutes over a medium heat. Check the navettes while they are cooking and remove the lid for the last few minutes of cooking time if there is still a lot of liquid in the casserole. They should be glazed but not wet.

3. Meanwhile, following the instructions for the Biscuit-Tin-Smoked Fish, put your duck breasts into the biscuit-tin smoker to smoke for 20 minutes while the navettes are cooking.

4. When the duck is smoked and the navettes are cooked, slice the duck breasts. Arrange the sliced duck and navette wedges in a circle around the edge of four warm plates, leaving a space in the middle of each plate for the salad.

5. Dress the bitter greens with most of the dressing and divide among the plates. Sprinkle with the toasted hazelnuts and drizzle with the remaining dressing. Serve immediately.

TIP

Tip the hazelnuts into a non-stick frying pan and toast over a high heat for 1–2 minutes until golden, tossing regularly to avoid burning. Take off the heat and set aside to cool.

Salad of smoked fish with lamb’s lettuce and a crispy egg

SERVES 4

A gorgeously substantial salad, this has all the elements of a summer main course that I love – delicious fresh leaves, smoky tender fish and a softly boiled egg encased in a crispy breadcrumb coating. Use really good extra-virgin olive oil here.

4 × 200g (7oz) fillets of fish – smoked haddock or coley, either hot-smoked (see Biscuit-Tin-Smoked Fish), or shop-bought cold-smoked fish

a little butter

4 handfuls of lamb’s lettuce or any other delicious salad leaves

For the dressing

2 tsp Dijon mustard

2 tsp white wine vinegar

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the crispy eggs

4 eggs, plus 1 beaten egg

2 tbsp plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper

3 tbsp panko or fine white breadcrumbs

sunflower oil, for shallow-frying or deep-frying

1. To make the crispy eggs, bring a large pan of water to the boil, then add the eggs (they need to be completely submerged), set a timer and allow to boil for exactly 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs and cool under cold running water to prevent them cooking further.

2. Place the seasoned flour, beaten egg and the breadcrumbs in three separate shallow dishes. Peel the eggs carefully, as they will still be soft in the centre, roll them in the flour, then in the beaten egg and, finally, in the crumbs to give them a nice coating. Set aside.

3. Cook your fish – either follow the hot-smoked biscuit-tin recipe, or pan-fry the cold-smoked fish in a little butter.

4. While the fish is cooking, heat a little sunflower oil for the crispy eggs in a small pan and shallow-fry the eggs, turning frequently, until they are golden and crispy all over, or deep-fry them in sunflower oil.

5. Whisk together all the ingredients for the dressing. Put the lamb’s lettuce in a bowl and sprinkle with a few teaspoons of the dressing, then toss – the leaves should be lightly coated but not too much.

6. Place the cooked fish in the centre of each plate, then place a crispy egg on top. Arrange the dressed leaves around each one in a ring, drizzle the whole plate with more dressing and serve.

Roast beetroot salad with liquorice, goat’s cheese and candied pearl barley

SERVES 4

This salad is inspired by a recipe that the wonderful cookery writer Diana Henry wrote on her return from my mother’s home town of Reykjavik. Liquorice is one of my mum’s favourite flavours from growing up in Iceland and this is an intriguing method of cooking it with beetroot. It adds a subtle, spicy sweetness, but you can leave it out if you prefer.

400g (14oz) even-sized raw beetroot, whole and unpeeled

2 sticks (20g/¾oz) broken liquorice root

4 handfuls of salad leaves, including some small beetroot leaves, if possible

150g (5oz) soft goat’s cheese

For the candied pearl barley

50g (2oz) pearl barley

50g (2oz) brown sugar

pinch of sea salt

For the dressing

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

4 tbsp walnut oil

1 tbsp honey

2 tbsp cider vinegar

1 tbsp Dijon mustard

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Remove the leaves from the beetroot and cut off most of the stalk, leaving about 2cm (¾in) attached. Leave the tails intact. Wash under a cold tap – do not scrub, simply rub off any dirt with your fingers. You don’t want to damage the skin, otherwise the beetroot will ‘bleed’ while cooking, losing important nutrients.

2. Put the beets in a saucepan large enough to fit them all in a tight single layer, add the liquorice and just cover with water – do not add salt. Cover, place on the hob and bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for ¾–1 hour until cooked. The skin should peel easily and a knife slide into the centre.

3. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beetroot and set aside until cool enough to handle. Return the pot to the hob and allow the beetroot cooking water to bubble with the lid off until reduced to a quarter of its original volume. Discard the liquorice.

4. While the beets cook, toast the pearl barley in a pan over a medium heat, shaking frequently until it turns a light nutty brown. Remove from the pan and set aside.

5. Sprinkle the brown sugar into the dry pan, return to the heat and, without stirring, allow to dissolve. When the sugar has dissolved, return the pearl barley to the pan with a pinch of salt. Shake the pan or swirl gently to coat the pearl barley with caramel and then pour it out onto a piece of baking parchment. Set aside to cool.

6. Next, make the dressing. Mix the oils, honey, vinegar and mustard in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Set aside.

7. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. When cool, peel the beets and cut into wedges. Toss in a little dressing and roast for 10 minutes.

8. Loosen the remaining dressing with 1 tablespoon of the beetroot cooking liquid. Dress the leaves, divide among four plates in a ‘nest’ in the centre of each. Alternate wedges of beetroot and blobs of cheese around the leaves. Chop the candied pearl barley and sprinkle over, drizzle with the remaining dressing and serve.

Scandi kale salad with horseradish

SERVES 4–6

A lovely simple salad with Scandi flavours that uses lots of nutritious raw kale. The deliciously hot/sweet/tangy dressing is also super tossed with raw grated beetroot, carrot and celeriac, slaw-style.

200g (7oz) de-stalked kale leaves, roughly chopped

For the dressing

175g (6oz) crème fraîche

120ml (4fl oz) lemon juice

2½ tbsp finely grated horseradish

40g (1½oz) sugar

pinch of sea salt

1. Place the kale leaves in a bowl.

2. To make the dressing, whisk together the crème fraîche, lemon juice, horseradish and sugar, and season with a pinch of salt. Add the dressing to the kale and toss to combine.

Beetroot and coriander hummus

MAKES 450ml (16fl oz)

1 raw beetroot, peeled and cut into chunks

1 × 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tbsp light tahini (sesame seed paste)

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra if needed

juice of ½–1 lemon, to taste

2 tbsp chopped coriander

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the beetroot chunks, chickpeas, garlic and tahini into a food processor, pour in the olive oil, then pulse until smooth. Add the lemon juice and the chopped coriander then season to taste with salt and pepper. If the hummus is a bit too thick, add a little more olive oil.

2. The hummus will keep in the fridge in a sealed container for three to four days. Use as a dip for raw vegetable sticks or pitta bread, or as a salad dressing.

Chicken burger with lemon and chive mayonnaise

MAKES 6–8 BURGERS

This is comfort food in a bun. It’s up to you whether you use brown or white meat for mincing, but I find that a mixture of the two works well to give a deliciously flavoursome and juicy burger. The lemon and chive mayonnaise is the perfect accompaniment.

25g (1oz) butter

300g (11oz) shallots, finely sliced, or 1 red onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tbsp chopped thyme

900g (2lb) minced chicken

zest of 1 lemon

1–2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lemon and chive mayonnaise

2 tbsp snipped chives

2 tbsp of lemon juice, plus extra to taste

1 tsp Dijon mustard

generous pinch of salt

2 egg yolks

50ml (2fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

150ml (5fl oz) sunflower oil

To serve

Buttermilk Burger Buns

fresh rocket

slices of ripe tomatoes

1. First make the mayonnaise. Put all the ingredients, except the oils, in a glass bowl (a stainless-steel bowl can give the mayonnaise a grey colour). Mix the oils in a jug. Continuously whisk the mixture in the bowl while adding the oil slowly in a thin, steady stream until it is completely combined to a smooth, creamy texture. Taste for seasoning and add an extra splash of lemon juice if necessary. (For speed, you can use an electric hand whisk.) Cover and chill while you make the burgers.

2. Melt the butter in a saucepan, then add the shallots or onion, the garlic, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Put the lid on the pan and sweat over a gentle heat until the onions are soft but not coloured. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

3. Combine the minced chicken, cooled onion mixture and the lemon zest in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Break off a small piece and fry it in a little oil, then taste it and adjust the seasoning if needed.

4. Use your hands to shape the mixture into 6 large or 8 medium burgers, each with a thickness of roughly 2cm (¾ in) – having wet hands makes this much easier to do.

5. Preheat a griddle or frying pan over a high heat, then turn the heat down to medium and add the olive oil. Fry the burgers for 8–10 minutes on each side to cook through, turning the heat down to low once the burgers are golden on both sides. You may need to do this in two batches, adding more olive oil when frying the second batch. (You can finish them in the oven preheated to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 for 5–8 minutes until cooked through, if you want to.)

6. Serve in a bun with some rocket, tomato slices and a good blob of the lemon and chive mayonnaise.

Pork burgers

MAKES 6–8 BURGERS

The fresh, summery mayonnaise works a treat with this great pork burger.

900g (2lb) minced pork

150g (5oz) spring onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1–2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

6–8 slices of mozzarella cheese

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the tomato and basil mayonnaise

2 tsp tomato purée

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tbsp chopped basil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

pinch of sea salt

2 egg yolks

50ml (2fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

150ml (5fl oz) sunflower oil

To serve

Buttermilk Burger Buns

cucumber slices

1. First make the mayonnaise. Put all the ingredients, except the oils, in a glass bowl (a stainless-steel bowl can give the mayonnaise a grey colour). Mix the oils in a jug. Continuously whisk the mixture in the bowl while adding the oil slowly in a thin, steady stream until it is completely combined to a smooth, creamy texture. Taste for seasoning. (For speed, you can use an electric hand whisk.) Cover and chill while you make the burgers.

2. Next make the burgers. Mix the pork, spring onions, garlic, and salt and pepper in a bowl. Break off a small piece and fry it in a little oil, then taste it and adjust the seasoning if needed.

3. Use your hands to shape the mixture into 6 large or 8 medium-sized burgers, l–2cm (½–¾in) thick.

4. Place a frying pan over a medium heat and heat the olive oil. Fry the burgers for 8–10 minutes on each side over a medium-low heat. You may need to do this in two batches, adding more olive oil when frying the second batch. When the burgers are nearly cooked, place a slice of mozzarella cheese on each burger, cover the pan with a lid and cook until the cheese has melted.

5. Serve in a fresh bun with some sliced cucumber and a blob of tomato and basil mayonnaise.

Beetroot and hazelnut slaw

SERVES 6–8

A slaw is just the thing to serve with rich meats at a barbecue, or indeed burgers. It’s both a salad and a sauce that’ll bring freshness and crunch.

225g (8oz) raw beetroot, peeled and grated

225g (8oz) carrot, grated

3 tbsp chopped mint or parsley

¼ head of savoy cabbage

4 tbsp hazelnut oil or extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp lemon juice

2 tsp Dijon mustard

110g (4oz) hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped (see tip, here)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the grated beetroot and carrot and the chopped mint or parsley in a large bowl. Remove the dark outer leaves from the cabbage, cut out and discard the core and shred the leaves as thinly as possible, cutting across the quartered head. Add the cabbage to the bowl.

2. In a small bowl, combine the oil and lemon juice with the Dijon mustard, then season with salt and pepper. Pour the dressing onto the vegetables and herbs and mix well until evenly coated.

3. Transfer to a serving bowl or plate, scatter over the toasted hazelnuts and serve.

Beef burgers

MAKES 6–8 BURGERS

Every committed carnivore needs a decent burger recipe in their repertoire, and this simple beef burger should tick the box for you. The horseradish and tarragon mayonnaise is super with a steak or lamb chops, too.

25g (1oz) butter

300g (11oz) onions, finely chopped

900g (2lb) minced beef

2 tbsp chopped thyme, marjoram and parsley (preferably a mixture)

1 egg, beaten

1–2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the horseradish and tarragon mayonnaise

2 tsp finely grated fresh horseradish

2 tsp Dijon mustard

2 tsp chopped tarragon

1 tbsp cider vinegar

pinch of salt

2 egg yolks

50ml (2fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

150ml (5fl oz) sunflower oil

To serve

Buttermilk Burger Buns

sliced lettuce and gherkins

1. First make the mayonnaise. Put all the ingredients, except the oils, in a glass bowl (a stainless-steel bowl can give the mayonnaise a grey colour). Mix the oils in a jug. Continuously whisk the mixture in the bowl while adding the oil slowly in a thin, steady stream until it is completely combined to a smooth, creamy texture. Taste for seasoning. (For speed, you can use an electric hand whisk.) Cover and chill while you make the burgers.

2. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium-low heat, then add the onions and cook for 6–8 minutes until they are completely soft and a pale gold colour. Take off the heat and allow to cool completely.

3. Meanwhile, mix the mince with the herbs and egg and season with salt and pepper. Add the cooled onions and mix together thoroughly. Break off a small piece of the mixture and fry it in a little oil, then taste it and adjust the seasoning if needed.

4. Next, use your hands to shape the mixture into 6 large or 8 medium-sized burgers, 1–2cm (½–¾in) thick.

5. Place a frying pan over a medium heat and heat the olive oil. Fry the burgers for 4–7 minutes on each side depending on the thickness and how well done you like your burger. You may need to do this in two batches, adding more olive oil when frying the second batch.

6. Serve on burger buns with lettuce and gherkins and a blob of horseradish and tarragon mayonnaise.

Creamy pork and tomato pasta

SERVES 4–6

My mum used to make lots of great comforting pasta dishes like this when we were little, but no two ever seemed to be the same. In fact, when I asked her for one of her recipes, she just said that she used to make it up as she went along! So here is my version of one of Mum’s delicious concoctions – I hope you like it as much as I do.

500g (1lb 2oz) pasta, such as pappardelle or tagliatelle

25g (1oz) butter

250g (9oz) onions, chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely sliced

400g (14oz) minced pork

1 tbsp chopped sage

a little grated nutmeg

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

400g (14oz) tomatoes, peeled and chopped (see tip, here), or 1 × 400g tin of chopped tomatoes

pinch of sugar

2 tbsp chopped parsley

150ml (5fl oz) regular or double cream

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil with 1 teaspoon salt, add the pasta and cook for the length of time specified in the packet instructions or until al dente.

2. While the pasta is cooking, melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the onions and garlic, cover the pan with a lid and sweat the vegetables until soft but not coloured. Season with salt and pepper.

3. While the onions and garlic are sweating, mix the pork with the chopped sage, then season with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper.

4. When the onions and garlic are soft, remove them from the pan and set aside.

5. Add the olive oil to the pan and return to a medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the pork in little pieces pinched off with your fingers, or with a teaspoon. Fry the pork on all sides until golden, then return the onions and garlic to the pan and add the tomatoes, season again with a pinch of salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. When the tomatoes have cooked down to half their original volume, add the parsley and cream and cook for a further 2–3 minutes to thicken slightly.

6. Drain the pasta, strain the pasta but reserve about 100ml (3½fl oz) of the cooking water – this is very useful for adding into the pasta sauce if it’s too thick, or stirring into the pasta itself if you’re waiting for the sauce to cook and the pasta starts sticking. Add the sauce to the pasta, mix well to combine, adding a little pasta cooking water if it needs loosening, then serve immediately.

Lamb’s liver on toast with whiskey, garlic, thyme and cream

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

A quick supper dish that makes the most of the great pairing that is liver and whiskey.

300g (11oz) lamb’s liver, cut into 2.5cm (1in) chunks

200ml (7fl oz) milk

4 slices of bread

25g (1oz) butter, plus extra for the toast

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 tsp thyme leaves, roughly chopped

60ml (2½fl oz) whiskey

100ml (3½fl oz) regular or double cream

1. Soak the lamb’s liver in the milk in a deep bowl for 30 minutes.

2. Toast the bread, butter the slices, then place them on plates and keep warm in the oven.

3. Melt the butter in a large pan over a high heat. Pat the liver dry on kitchen paper. When the butter is foaming, add the liver and fry until deep golden and crisp. Add the garlic and thyme and fry for just 1 minute more until the garlic is light golden.

4. Next, add the whiskey. If you are using gas, tilt the pan carefully towards the flame, otherwise hold a match near the edge of the pan. Either method should cause the alcohol to flare up, so be careful not to burn yourself. When the flame dies down, add the cream and allow it to bubble until the contents of the pan reduce to a quite thick creamy sauce.

5. Spoon the liver and sauce over the buttered toast and enjoy!

Liver, bacon and onions

SERVES 4

This recipe is inspired by hearing my friend Patricia talk about her mum’s cooking as she was growing up. As in many Irish and British houses, offal made a regular appearance in home cooking. Patricia’s mum, Maura O’Brien, cooked liver once a week and always, says Patricia, on the day that it came from the butcher, so it was nice and fresh.

600g (1lb 5oz) lamb’s liver, cut into 8 slices, 1.5cm (⅝in) thick

300ml (½ pint) milk

50g (2oz) butter

150g (5oz) onions, sliced

100g (3½oz) streaky bacon, cut into 1cm (½in) strips (lardons)

2 garlic cloves, sliced very thinly

25g (1oz) plain flour

2 tbsp chopped parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

buttered toast (optional)

1. Soak the liver in the milk for at least 30 minutes.

2. Heat half the butter in a frying pan, add the onions, bacon and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Fry gently, so that the garlic doesn’t burn, until the bacon becomes crispy and the onions and garlic are golden. Remove from the pan and set aside.

3. Mix the flour with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Pat the liver dry on kitchen paper, then toss in the seasoned flour to coat.

4. Melt the remaining butter in the frying pan, then add the slices of liver and fry on both sides to a nice crispy finish. Return the onions, bacon and garlic to the frying pan and heat through with the liver.

5. Divide among four warm plates, sprinkle each plate with a little chopped parsley and serve with lots of buttery toast, if you like.

Pasta with smoked salmon, bacon and cream

SERVES 4–6

A supper that features regularly at our house, this pasta dish makes a little smoked salmon go a long way. The salty, rich, smoked fish loves a fresh green vegetable as a companion: peas, broad beans, broccoli and asparagus all work a treat.

500g (1lb 2oz) pasta, such as pappardelle or tagliatelle

a knob of butter

100g (3½oz) streaky bacon, cut into 1cm (½in) strips (lardons)

100g (3½oz) frozen peas

150g (5oz) smoked salmon, cut into 1cm (½in) cubes

150ml (5fl oz) regular or double cream

good squeeze of lemon juice

1 tbsp chopped parsley or a mixture of parsley, chives and dill

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil with 1 teaspoon salt, add the pasta and cook for the length of time specified in the packet instructions or until al dente.

2. When cooked, strain the pasta but reserve about 100ml (3½fl oz) of the cooking water – this is very useful for adding into the pasta sauce if it’s too thick, or stirring into the pasta itself if you’re waiting for the sauce to cook and the pasta starts sticking. You don’t need to add oil or butter to the pasta once it’s drained.

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