COPYRIGHT

HarperCollinsPublishers

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First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2018

FIRST EDITION

© Simon Stallard 2018

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Photographs © Susan Bell, except where otherwise stated.

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Source ISBN: 9780008218010

Ebook Edition © May 2018 ISBN: 9780008218027

Version 2018-04-13

CONTENTS

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Introduction

1

Dawn

2

Noon

3

Dusk

4

Afters

Index of Searchable Terms

Acknowledgements

About the Publisher

Introduction

It’s a brisk April evening on the Roseland Peninsula, Cornwall. In a small sheltered cove, storm lanterns flicker as a bobble-hatted crowd clad in Gor-Tex and goose-down huddle together. Friends and families sit shoulder to shoulder with strangers on long, weathered tables. Hot-water bottles are stowed inside coats and wines are shared generously. Behind, a team of chefs tend to steaming pans over wood fires as a local fishing crew deliver their last catch of the day. Spirits are high and the atmosphere is alive with anticipation.

The reason for the gathering? It’s ‘feast night’ at the Hidden Hut.

© Sally Mitchell

I remember it wasn’t the easiest of conversations, persuading my partner Jem that we should give up our jobs and take on the lease of an old wooden shed on the coast path. The country at the time was in the midst of an economic downturn, restaurants were being hit hard and we’d not long signed the mortgage of our first house. Only something really special could have drawn us to take such a risk.

Having trained and worked as chef since I was 16, my career had taken me all over the world, from New York and New Delhi to the fish markets of Newlyn. Cornwall was now my home and I felt it was a truly exciting place to be a chef. The region is flush with some of the most desirable produce in the country. Its frost-free climate allows for a longer growing season and beautifully ripe fruits. The seas are clean and plentiful, and the fields are lush with rich pasture. Large intensive farms are a rarity down here. It’s mainly small-scale, traditional production. Everything feels slightly slower and a little less refined, and that is just what I love.

I used to walk past the little green shed every morning on my way to work. At the time, it was used as a kiosk for selling lollies and plastic beach toys. It had a retro charm to it, but it was only open during the summer holidays. For the other ten months of the year it was closed and boarded up. I would watch the cattle grazing in the pastures above and the fishing boats harvesting the seas below; it encompassed everything I loved about Cornwall. There was something special there that moved me. However, the hut had been leased from the National Trust by the same family for over 25 years and I was told there was no way they would be letting it go. It had to remain a pipe dream.

However, three years later, I heard some news from a very reliable source in our local, the Plume of Feathers. The National Trust was accepting tenders for the hut from interested parties. I literally grabbed my coat and came straight home to Jem to let her know. Our proposal was sent off to Lanhydrock House the next morning. As the only people who’d shown an interest, it wasn’t long before the lease was signed and our journey had begun.

But it wasn’t all plain sailing. I remember the February morning I picked up the keys and trekked over the cliffs to take a proper look at our new venture. The mud track that was meant for deliveries had been eroded into a stream, leaving the place only accessible by foot, and in wellies at that. As I tried to work out which key went where, I realised the locks had frozen tight in the salty air, so I had to break in through the hatches. Huge spiders the size of my hand scuttled away as I clambered over the counter into the dusty, derelict shed. The view from it was breathtaking and there was so much potential, but Porthcurnick Beach was no Padstow or St Ives. This was remote, deepest, undiscovered Cornwall. There was not a soul to be seen as far as the eye could see. What on earth had we taken on?

It took ten long weeks of hard graft to renovate the hut. Being in such an unspoilt, natural setting, we couldn’t add anything of any permanence. We built an outdoor kitchen that could be dismantled and removed at the end of each season and installed long tables in the sand made from a fallen tree. What seemed like an impossible feat only added to the magic of it. We were finally ready to open.

To create the daily menu, I struck up deals with local fishermen, farmers and growers. Having worked at the local fish markets, I knew what to buy, and when. If they had a huge glut of, say, mackerel, we would take a load at a good price and set up a couple of grills on the clifftop. We’d put a blackboard up on the road and a post on Facebook, and just hope enough people would see it and drop by. It was simple but it worked well. We would always be busy on those days and I loved people’s enthusiasm for this type of offering. But it soon became apparent it wasn’t sustainable. It wasn’t long before too many people would turn up hoping for the blackboard menu and we couldn’t feed them all. There was nothing worse than people trekking over only for them to leave hungry. We needed to adapt our tactics.

We decided to move these events to the evenings when the coast was quieter and, because we didn’t have a phone line, we sold tickets online as the method of booking. They became known as ‘feast nights’ and they were the offering I had been dreaming about all these years. We cooked one dish over a wood fire, showcasing just a few key ingredients delivered direct from the fields and boats. Anything from slow-roasted lamb to huge steaming pans of seafood paella over fire pits. There was no choice and all the food was served at once, straight from the grill; but it was the freshest food you could wish for. All the usual dining luxuries such as waiter service, wine menus, even plates and cutlery, were pared down — we just provided the food and setting, and let people make the nights their own. As only one dish was cooked per evening, we had a calendar rather than a menu; it certainly wasn’t a normal way of running a restaurant service, but it felt right for this place.

© Sally Mitchell

Eight years and 64 firewood deliveries later, we have created something I am so proud to be a part of. The shed became the Hidden Hut and our feast nights the fastest-selling ticketed food events in the UK. Despite no formal advertising — not even a signpost on the footpath — people stumbled across us and shared their discoveries by word of mouth. It wasn’t long before it took off on social media and then the mainstream media were spreading our story, too.

© Sally Mitchell

© Sally Mitchell

Today, the Hidden Hut has become a food destination in its own right. It’s been filmed for ITV and the BBC and has been featured in almost every major publication from Vogue and Bon Appétit to the Observer in its Top 40 Best Restaurants. It’s developed its own coastal community. If you’ve picked up this book, it’s likely you’ve already come across us and are part of the story. If you’re new to us, then welcome! We are lucky that those who have sought us out over the years have tended to share our values and appreciate the simple, windswept pleasures our hut offers. This book of recipes is our way of saying of thank you.

1

Dawn

Cornwall enjoys the latest sunrise in the country. Dawn happens ‘dreckly’ here and that always feels quite appropriate.

For me, the ritual of cooking breakfast is about stopping and taking time, whether that’s for a family sit-down or some solitude with the morning papers. It’s not something most of us are able to do every day. It’s more of a weekend/day-off affair. This chapter is for those mornings. A collection of long, laid-back breakfasts and brunches. It’s all about picking great produce, putting on the coffee and getting into the holiday vibe.

DOUGHNUTS AT DAWN

Small, freshly cooked doughnuts are great with a coffee. The batter gives you 20–25 golf-ball-sized doughnuts, so they are perfect for sharing. They are moreish, though — so they won’t hang around for long. You could add some ground cinnamon to the sugar for dusting the doughnuts, if you liked.

Makes 20–25

1 vanilla pod

300ml whole milk, lukewarm (see Yeast Tip)

50g unsalted butter, melted and cooled to lukewarm

7g sachet active dried yeast

75g caster sugar, plus extra for coating

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

400g plain flour

1 tsp fine sea salt

sunflower oil, for deep-frying

Cut the vanilla pod in half lengthways and scrape out the seeds onto a plate. Pour the milk into a jug and add the butter, yeast, 1 teaspoon of the sugar and the vanilla seeds to create a vanilla-flavoured, yeasted milk. Stir well and leave for 5 minutes so that the yeast is activated. Beat in the eggs.

In a large mixing bowl, sift in 300g of the flour, the remaining sugar and the salt. Make a well in the centre and stir in the warm yeasted milk to create a lump-free batter. Cover the bowl with a clean tea towel or cling film and leave the batter to rise in a warm place for 1½ hours or until doubled in size.

Fill a deep-fryer or a large heavy-based saucepan one-third full with oil and heat it to 170°C (test by frying a small cube of bread; it should brown in 40 seconds). Using two soup spoons, spoon the wet batter into balls and gently drop them into the oil. Cook for 3 minutes, watching carefully and rolling them in the oil so that they brown evenly all over. Cook the doughnuts in batches of 4–5 so that you don’t overfill the pan and cool the oil down too much.

Once they are done, remove them from the oil using a slotted spoon. To check that they are ready, cut one in half to make sure the dough is cooked through and not wet in the middle. Drain on a kitchen paper-lined plate, then dust with sugar and eat while they are still warm.

Yeast tip

Make sure the milk is no hotter than lukewarm or it might kill the yeast.

SPICED FLASK OATS

There is something to be said for getting up in time to enjoy the sunrise. They are a magical few minutes of the day and totally worth getting out of bed for.

But you’re probably not quite ready for breakfast yet? Make yourself a warming flask of chai porridge and take it out with you. When you’re ready, crack open the lid and enjoy being greeted by the fragrant milky steam. It’s the perfect fuel for a coastal walk.

Serves 1

350ml whole milk

2 cloves

1 star anise

1 cinnamon stick

zest of 1 orange

1 tbsp caster sugar

50g rolled porridge oats

Pour the milk into a small heavy-based saucepan and add the spices, orange zest and sugar. Bring to the boil over a medium-high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the spices in the milk to infuse for 10 minutes.

Strain to remove the whole spices. Return the pan to the hob, add the oats and simmer for 3–6 minutes, depending on the coarseness of the oats, stirring continously. Pour into a vacuum flask with a cup lid, grab a spoon and consume on a clifftop (or the train on your morning commute).

APRICOT, HONEY AND ROSEMARY MUFFINS

This recipe makes enough batter for 12 muffins. The batter freezes brilliantly, so you can enjoy freshly baked muffins for many mornings after you’ve made the mix. Just put the batter into the muffin cases and freeze them, then pull out as many as you need the night before to defrost and cook to enjoy them fresh in the morning.

When making the mix, keep the apricots and pecan nuts quite chunky to give the muffins some bite.

Makes 12

350g plain flour

2 tsp baking powder

a large pinch of sea salt

2 tbsp finely chopped rosemary leaves, plus 12 small rosemary sprigs

120g pecan nuts, roughly chopped

120g dried apricots, roughly chopped

2 large eggs

125g golden caster sugar

125g unsalted butter, melted

240ml buttermilk

100g honey

Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan oven) gas mark 6 and line a 12-cup muffin tray with 12 tulip muffin cases. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a large mixing bowl and add the chopped rosemary, pecan nuts and apricots.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until light and creamy, then whisk in the melted butter, buttermilk and honey until well combined. Pour this mixture into the dry ingredients and fold everything together using a spatula until just combined. Be careful not to work the mixture too much or the muffins will be tough — it doesn’t matter if it is still slightly lumpy.

Spoon the batter evenly into the cake cases. Top each one with a sprig of rosemary to decorate. Bake the muffins for 25–30 minutes until risen and golden and a skewer inserted into the middle of a muffin comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack. Serve warm or cold.

SMOKEY BACON PASTRIES

Crispy dry-cured smoked bacon, rich yolky eggs and Cornish Brie make for a great breakfast pastry filling. I like to enjoy these with a bit of cranberry relish on the side.

Makes 12

butter, for greasing

500g puff pastry, defrosted if frozen

plain flour, for dusting

8 rashers of streaky smoked bacon

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

50ml double cream

3 large eggs

50g Parmesan cheese, grated

180g Cornish Brie, diced

freshly ground black pepper

cranberry relish, to serve

Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan oven) gas mark 7 and grease a 12-cup muffin tray with butter. Roll out the puff pastry on a lightly floured work surface. To make it extra flaky, fold it in half and roll it out again. Do this twice more, then roll it out thinly one final time.

Take a 12cm round pastry cutter and check that you can get 12 circles out of the pastry before you start to cut them, as you don’t want to have to re-roll the pastry. Roll it out a bit more if needed. Cut out the pastry discs and use them to line the 12 holes of the muffin tray, then put it to one side.

Grill the bacon until crispy and golden, then shred into small pieces. Divide the bacon bits evenly between the pastry cases, followed by the spring onions.

In a large bowl, whisk the cream to soft peaks. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs until light and fluffy, then fold them into the cream. Season with black pepper and fold in the Parmesan.

Pour the filling into the pastry cases and top with the diced Brie, dividing it evenly between the tartlets. Bake for 20 minutes, turning the oven temperature down to 200°C (180°C fan oven) gas mark 6 after 10 minutes, until golden on top and the pastry is cooked through. Make sure the pastries are cooked and move freely in the muffin tray before taking them out of the oven. Serve warm or cold with cranberry relish on the side.

BUTTERMILK DROP CAKES WITH LEMON CURD

Topped with warm lemon curd and served straight from the stove, these drop cakes are a sure-fire way to draw everyone to the breakfast table. Serve with berries and crème fraîche.

Serves 4

320g plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

a good pinch of sea salt

50g caster sugar

2 large eggs

290ml buttermilk

60g butter, plus extra for frying

crème fraîche and berries, to serve

FOR THE LEMON CURD

90g butter, cubed

140g caster sugar

a pinch of sea salt

120ml lemon juice (about 3 lemons)

3 large egg yolks

1 large egg

FOR THE MINT SUGAR

4 tbsp caster sugar

a good handful of mint leaves

First, make the lemon curd. Put the butter in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water, making sure the base of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Add the sugar, salt and lemon juice. Stir until well combined and the butter has melted. Remove the bowl from the heat and set to one side.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and egg. Add this to the lemon and butter mixture and whisk to combine. Return the bowl to the simmering saucepan and heat for 10 minutes or until the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat and leave to cool a little.

To make the mint sugar, simply either blitz the sugar and mint leaves in a food processor or bash them together using a mortar and pestle. Put to one side.

Preheat the oven to 110°C (90°C fan oven) gas mark ¼. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a large mixing bowl and stir in the sugar. Add the eggs and buttermilk, and whisk everything together to make a smooth batter.

Put half the butter in a non-stick frying pan and melt it over a medium-low heat. Mix the melted butter into the batter.

Put the frying pan back over the heat and add tablespoonfuls of the mixture in small pools around the pan — you should be able to do 4–5 at a time. Cook for 1 minute on the first side, or until bubbles form on the surface. Flip them over and cook for 1 minute.

Remove from the pan and keep warm on a plate wrapped up in a tea towel in the oven while you cook the remaining batter in the same way, adding a little more of the remaining butter to the pan each time.

Serve the drop cakes warm, drizzled with lemon curd, some crème fraîche and fresh berries and a sprinkle of mint sugar.

ROASTED FIGS WITH HONEY AND RICOTTA ON WALNUT TOAST

Hot walnut toast with whipped cinnamon butter served with roasted figs, ricotta, flaked almonds (crushed pistachios also work really well) and honey. You can make the loaf and cinnamon butter the day before, if you wish. Your kitchen will smell like a Danish bakery!

FEAST

Serves 8–10

750g spelt flour

2 tsp sea salt

1½ tsp active dried yeast

3 rounded tsp honey

2 tbsp walnut oil

40g walnuts, chopped

oil, for greasing

FOR THE WHIPPED CINNAMON BUTTER

170g butter, softened

45g soft dark brown sugar

2½ tsp ground cinnamon

FOR THE ROASTED FIGS

50g butter

5 star anise

10 large, ripe figs, halved

TO SERVE

50g flaked almonds

honey, for drizzling

ricotta cheese

lemon zest

First, make the walnut loaf. You’ll need to start at least 3 hours before serving, or make it the night before. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, salt and yeast. Add the honey and 450ml warm water, and give it a good stir until it begins to come together. Add the oil and knead for 10 minutes or until soft and supple. Cover the dough in the bowl with a damp tea towel or cling film and leave it to rise in a warm place for 1 hour or until it doubles in size.

Once doubled in size, it’s time to do a bit more kneading. This time you want to incorporate the walnuts. Keep going until the walnuts have become part of the dough. Grease a baking tray and form the dough into a loaf shape, then leave it to rest on the tray for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan oven) gas mark 7.

Bake the loaf on the top shelf of the oven for 35 minutes or until it sounds hollow when tapped underneath. If it makes a dent when tapped, it’s not quite done. Leave it to cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes before slicing.

To make the cinnamon butter, beat all the ingredients together until fluffy. Roll in greaseproof paper and form into a sausage, then chill in the fridge until needed. Allow the butter to come to room temperature before serving (this will enhance the cinnamon flavour).

For the roasted figs, preheat the oven to 240°C (220°C fan oven) gas mark 9. Melt the butter in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, and allow it to foam. Add the star anise and cook over a low heat for 10–15 minutes until the anise flavours the butter.

Put the figs, cut side up, on a baking tray and drizzle over the star anise butter. Roast for 15–20 minutes until the figs are tender.

Slice the bread and toast it, then spread the hot toast with the cinnamon butter. Top with the figs, sprinkle with flaked almonds and serve with honey, ricotta and a sprinkling of lemon zest.

GRILLED MACKEREL WITH A WARM CORNISH SPLIT AND HORSERADISH SOURED CREAM

We serve these filled splits during the annual Portscatho Fish Festival. The mackerel comes in straight from the boats and onto our big wood-fired grills on the harbour jetty. Try to use the freshest possible mackerel. If you can, choose mackerel that are whole so that you can check if the eyes are clear and bright. Then ask the fishmonger to fillet and pin-bone them for you, leaving the skin on.

Splits are like a proven scone. They are well worth the effort, especially when served warm from the oven. The subtle sweetness of the split and the punch from the horseradish really complement the oily mackerel. If you have a sweet tooth, try a bit of gooseberry jam in there too; it might just make your day.

Serves 6

12 mackerel fillets, about 100g each, boned (see here), with skin

sunflower oil, for frying

100g watercress

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

gooseberry jam (optional), to serve

FOR THE SPLITS

10g active dried yeast

1 rounded tsp caster sugar

200ml whole milk, lukewarm

265g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting

100g plain flour

1 tsp fine sea salt

60g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing

1 egg yolk, lightly beaten

a little peeled and grated fresh horseradish

FOR THE HORSERADISH SOURED CREAM

4 tbsp soured cream

30g peeled and grated fresh horseradish

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 tsp sea salt

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

To make the splits, put the yeast in a bowl and mix in the sugar and milk. Leave to stand for 5 minutes to allow the yeast to activate.

Sift the bread flour and plain flour, and the salt, into a large mixing bowl, then rub the butter into the flour mix using your fingertips. Make a well in the centre, add the yeasty milk and mix to form a dough. Tip onto a floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes. Put in a clean bowl, cover with a damp tea towel or cling film and leave in a warm place to rise for 1 hour or until doubled in size.

Remove the dough from the bowl, knead again for 2 minutes, then shape into 6 rolls. Put these on a greased baking sheet. Brush with the egg yolk and sprinkle over a little grated horseradish. Leave to rise again in a warm place for 45 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan oven) gas mark 6.

Bake the rolls for 25–30 minutes until light golden — to test they are cooked, tap the bottom of one of the rolls; it should sound hollow when ready. Cool slightly on a wire rack.

To make the horseradish soured cream, mix all the ingredients together a bowl.

Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Season the mackerel well with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in the frying pan and add the fillets skin-side down — cook in batches of 2–4 fillets, depending on the size of your pan. Press down for the first 10 seconds so that the mackerel doesn’t curl up. Cook for 2 minutes until crispy, then flip over and cook for a further 30 seconds on the other side. Repeat with the remaining fillets.

To serve, cut the warm splits horizontally like a burger bun, put two mackerel fillets in each bun along with a good spoonful of the horseradish soured cream and some watercress. If you have any gooseberry jam in the fridge, pop this out on the table, too, to add to the mackerel.

FLUFFIEST SMOKED HADDOCK OMELETTE

This is no ordinary omelette. Light, fluffy and delicately smokey, the yolks added towards the end give it a beautiful self-saucing finish when cut into.

Serves 4

300g skinless, boneless smoked haddock fillet

10 eggs

100ml double cream

8 spring onions, finely chopped

a small bunch of coriander, leaves chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

50g Cheddar cheese, finely grated

sea salt (if needed) and freshly ground black pepper

Put the haddock in a bowl and pour hot water from the kettle over it, then leave it to poach for 2 minutes. Drain and flake the fish into large chunks.

Separate four of the eggs, leaving the yolks in the shells for now. Put the whites in a clean, grease-free bowl and whisk them using an electric hand whisk until firm peaks form.

In a separate large bowl, whisk the remaining six whole eggs with the cream and season with pepper (you probably won’t need much salt, if any, as the haddock is quite salty). Fold the egg whites into the egg and cream mixture, being careful not to knock out too much of the air. Using a spatula, quickly fold in the flaked haddock, spring onions and coriander.

Preheat the grill to high. Heat the oil in a frying pan with a heatproof handle over a medium heat. Pour the egg mix into the pan and use a spatula to move the mix around a bit so that it starts to cook evenly. Pop a lid on and leave to cook for 5 minutes in the pan or until well set on the bottom.

Remove the pan from the heat and gently tip the four egg yolks from their shells onto the top of the omelette. Sprinkle the top with the cheese and put the pan under the grill for 3–4 minutes until the omelette is turning golden on top and is cooked throughout, but the egg yolks are still runny. Serve immediately.

TOPPED CORNISH POTATO CAKES

Cornish potato cakes stacked up with sausage patties, blistered tomatoes and crispy potato skins. By popping a few baking potatoes into the oven first thing, you’re well on the way to making a cooked brunch that will set you up for the day.

Serves 4

4 baking potatoes, about 200g each

480g of your favourite sausages

olive oil, for brushing and shallow-frying

1 tsp flaked sea salt

40g butter, melted

10g plain flour, for dusting

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

basil leaves, to garnish

FOR THE BLISTERED TOMATOES

400g cherry tomatoes, sliced in half

4 spring onions, finely shredded

a squeeze of lemon juice

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp nigella (black onion) seeds

First thing in the morning, put the potatoes into the oven, set it for 200°C (180°C fan oven) gas mark 6 and leave to bake for 1–1½ hours or until soft. Cut each potato in half and scoop out the flesh into a bowl, keeping the skins. Leave until ready to use.

Preheat the oven to 190°C (170°C fan oven) gas mark 5. Remove the skins from the sausages and form the sausagemeat into eight small patties. Put to one side.

Thoroughly scrape off any remaining mash from the potato skins and cut the skins into 2.5cm slices. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with the flaked sea salt. Put onto a baking tray and cook in the oven for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, mash the potato with a fork, then add the butter and season with salt and pepper. Mix well. Divide the mash into eight even balls and gently flatten the top and bottom of each slightly, then dust in the flour.

Heat the olive oil for shallow-frying in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and pan-fry the balls for 1 minute on each side or until browned. Set these on a baking sheet and cook in the oven for 8 minutes.

Give your frying pan a quick clean, then fry the sausage patties in olive oil for 2 minutes on each side or until golden and crispy. Turn the oven right down to 110°C (90°C fan oven) gas mark ¼ and pop the patties in with the potato cakes to keep warm.

For the tomatoes, turn up the heat under the frying pan and cook the tomatoes for 2 minutes, turning once. Try not to stir them too much. Throw in the spring onions and add the lemon juice, oil and nigella seeds. Cook for 1 minute or so to lightly wilt the onions.

Serve the potato cakes topped with the sausage patties. Spoon oven the tomatoes and spring onions, and top with the crispy potato skins and some fresh basil leaves.

CHILLI SAFFRON TOAST WITH CRISPY BACON

Here’s one for chilli lovers. Head down to your local bakery to pick up a Cornish saffron loaf, and get the frying pan on for this eggy bread with a twist. The fiery green chilli and coriander really wake everything up. These toasts are great with a bowl of Greek yogurt on the side.

Serves 4

2 large eggs, beaten

16 rashers of smoked streaky bacon

40g butter

4 slices of 1 large saffron loaf, about 2.5cm thick and 100g each

4 tsp wild honey

1–2 small green finger chillies, to taste — depending on how hot you like it — finely chopped

a bunch of coriander, leaves roughly chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Season the eggs with salt and pepper, then pour them into a deep saucer or shallow bowl and put to one side. This is for dipping the saffron bread into.

Preheat the oven to 195°C (175°C fan oven) gas mark 5½ and line a baking tray with baking parchment. Lay out the rashers of bacon on the prepared baking tray. Lay over a second layer of parchment on top of the bacon and put another baking tray on the top to keep the bacon flat and stop it curling up while it cooks. To get crispy bacon, cook in the oven for 15 minutes.

In the meantime, melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Dip each slice of saffron bread into the egg and press down to soak up the egg, then turn over so that both sides are soaked equally. Fry for 2 minutes on each side or until golden brown. When all the slices are fried, put them onto a baking tray and pop them in the oven with the bacon to keep hot until you’re ready to serve.

Put the crispy bacon on top of the saffron toast and drizzle with honey. Serve sprinkled with the chillies and coriander.

ASPARAGUS BAKED EGGS, POTATO RÖSTI AND FIELD MUSHROOMS

For those fresh spring mornings when asparagus is in season and calling out for runny yolks. These asparagus baked eggs are served with golden rösti, richly flavoured field mushrooms and a citrusy tarragon hollandaise sauce for a really wholesome vegetarian breakfast.

FEAST

Serves 8

300g Cornish asparagus, tough ends snapped off

50g butter

2 tbsp light olive oil

2 white onions, finely sliced

8 eggs

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE POTATO RÖSTI

2kg potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated

2 tsp fine sea salt

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

100g butter

FOR THE TARRAGON HOLLANDAISE

250g butter

2 large egg yolks

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

juice of ¼ large lemon, or to taste

1 tbsp finely chopped tarragon leaves

FOR THE FIELD MUSHROOMS

2 tbsp light olive oil

8 field mushrooms, peeled and cut into 1cm slices

50g butter

Preheat the oven to 170°C (150°C fan oven) gas mark 3. Chop the tips off the asparagus and put them to one side. Using a swivel vegetable peeler, pare the asparagus into ribbons.

Melt the butter with the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and a good pinch of salt and pepper, then cook for 8–10 minutes until lightly caramelised. Add the asparagus ribbons and cook for a further 1 minute.

In a small roasting tin, lay out two-thirds of the onion and asparagus mix, then crack the eggs over the top, leaving a gap between each one. Put the remaining onions and asparagus ribbons, and the asparagus tips, over the top to protect the eggs. Lightly season with salt and pepper and set aside.

To make the rösti, put the grated potato in large mixing bowl and add the salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a low heat. Pour the melted butter over the potato and mix well. Once well coated, split the mixture in half and press it into two non-stick frying pans. Cook over a medium heat for 4 minutes or until the edges start to become golden.

Hold a chopping board or a plate over the frying pan and flip the pan over to turn the rösti out onto the board, then sweep the rösti back into the pan to cook the other side. Do the same with the other pan of rösti. Cook on this side for 2 minutes or until turning golden. Transfer the rösti from each pan to a baking tray.

Put the rösti, and the roasting tin with the asparagus mix, into the oven, and bake for 15 minutes or until the rösti is golden all over and the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny.

While the rösti and asparagus are cooking, make the hollandaise. Put the butter in a saucepan over a medium-low heat and gently melt, then set aside. Put the egg yolks and vinegar in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of gently simmering water, making sure the base of the bowl doesn’t touch the water, and whisk continuously until the eggs have thickened to the consistency of mayonnaise. If it becomes too thick, add a tiny splash of warm water.

Take off the heat and slowly whisk in the melted butter in a steady stream, discarding the white sediment at the bottom of the pan. Add 1 tablespoon of warm water, most of the lemon juice and all the tarragon, then season with salt and pepper and add more lemon if required.

To cook the mushrooms, heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat and add the mushrooms and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Cook for 2 minutes, then add the butter and cook for 2 minutes more. Serve the asparagus baked eggs with the rösti, mushrooms and tarragon hollandaise.

2

Noon

Lunch is the main meal to be served from our beach kitchen. The menu is chalked up daily, often twice daily if it’s busy, and we whizz through produce. Our food doesn’t follow any particular cuisine; instead, we allow ourselves to be influenced by the seasons and the fresh produce they bring, and even by the variable weather. Cornish soul food might be a way to describe it.

When browsing the recipes for inspiration, let yourself be guided by the day around you. If it’s a hot, sunny day, bring out the salads and grilled fish. If it’s cold and blustery, warm up with spiced dhals and slow-cooked joints of lamb.

If you’re interested in having a go at building your own wood grill or fire pit, there is a feature (see here) that takes you through it step by step. Though I warn you: once you start cooking with fire, it can get pretty addictive!

Soup Sundays at the Hidden Hut

Come wind, rain or shine, a warming bowl of soup can solve everything.

Soup Sundays have become a bit of an institution at the Hidden Hut. The appeal of hugging a warm pot of soup after a long coastal walk is pretty unbeatable. The atmosphere on these days is great — everybody is in day-off mode in their wellies or walking boots. Dogs and children play on the beach. The super-brave even swim here from the village! The place becomes a hub where you end up bumping into old friends and meeting new ones.

Soup Sundays for us are all about the spring and autumn months when the temperature starts to dip and the best soup veggies are in season. We get up early in the morning and prep mountains of produce to make fresh stocks, adding flavours layer by layer. The night before, we roast chicken, simmer turbot frames (bones), braise oxtail and prove bread; everything is done from scratch. At noon we chalk up around five or six fresh soups onto the boards and offer them all for a fiver with bread, butter and a selection of toppings. For us, soups aren’t an apologetic starter made from yesterday’s leftovers; they are served as our main meal of the day on our busiest day of the week!

Humble and soul-warming, soup is a delicious treat at home, too. Just like at the hut, you can transform simple homemade soups into a more substantial offering with a selection of toppings — crispy onions, fried herbs, croutons, grated cheese, toasted seeds and nuts — whatever takes your fancy. Bread is important, too. If you can, go for an uncut fresh loaf or bake your own. If not, just toast what you’ve got topped with grilled cheese!

© Sally Mitchell

PUMPKIN GINGER SOUP WITH CHESTNUTS AND CRISPY FRIED SAGE

A warming autumnal soup — ideal for blustery days. It is great with a side of melted cheese on toast.

Serves 4–6

1kg peeled and deseeded pumpkin or butternut squash, cut into wedges

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1 tbsp honey

1 large white onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

30g piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped

850ml vegetable stock

½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

½ tsp ground cinnamon

sunflower oil, for shallow-frying

a few sage leaves

30ml double cream

100g peeled cooked chestnuts, roughly chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan oven) gas mark 7. Put the pumpkin in a roasting tin and drizzle with olive oil and the honey. Season with salt and pepper, and mix everything together well. Roast in the oven for 30–40 minutes until tender and caramelised.

While the pumpkin is roasting, heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat and sweat off the onion, garlic and ginger, until the onion is tender. Add the cooked pumpkin to the pan, along with the stock, nutmeg and cinnamon, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer everything together for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 1cm of sunflower oil in a small frying pan over a high heat. Flash-fry the sage for 30 seconds or until crispy, then drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with salt.

Take the soup pan off the heat and stir in the cream. Blend the soup using a blender or food processor, then adjust the seasoning to taste. Serve the soup topped with the chestnuts and crispy sage leaves.

ROASTED SQUASH AND CAULIFLOWER DHAL

In the autumn, when the coastal path is swarming with hikers, veggie dhal absolutely flies out of our kitchen. If you swap the yogurt for a non-dairy alternative, you have yourself a tasty and substantial vegan lunch.

Serves 4

1 butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into large chunks

1 cauliflower, cut into large florets

2 tbsp sunflower oil

2 tbsp coconut oil

1 tbsp mustard seeds

2 onions, diced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

50g piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated

2 green chillies, deseeded and finely chopped

1 tbsp ground cumin

1 tbsp ground coriander

1 tsp paprika

1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tbsp curry powder

2 tomatoes, deseeded and chopped

1 vegetable stock cube

400ml coconut milk

350g red lentils

1 tbsp caster sugar

juice of 2 lemons

1 tbsp garam masala

100g spinach

2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

100g natural yogurt

4 spring onions, sliced

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

toasted flatbreads, to serve

Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan oven) gas mark 7. Put the squash and cauliflower in a roasting tin and add the sunflower oil, then season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat, then roast in the oven for 20 minutes. Put to one side.

Heat the coconut oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and fry the mustard seeds, onions, garlic, ginger and chillies for 5 minutes or until softened. Add the cumin, coriander, paprika, turmeric and curry powder, and cook for 1 minute.

Add the tomatoes to the pan and cook for 30 seconds, then crumble in the stock cube and add 1 litre water and the coconut milk. Bring to the boil. Add the lentils and cook over a medium heat for 20 minutes.

Add the sugar to the pan, followed by the lemon juice, garam masala, spinach, coriander and half the yogurt, then cook for a further 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Tip the roasted cauliflower and squash into the pan, stir then sprinkle over the spring onions and serve with the remaining yogurt and toasted flatbreads.

CHICKEN AND WILD GARLIC SOUP

Wild garlic is abundant in local woodlands. They are small ground-covering plants with broad leaves and a little cluster of white flowers during the spring, and they are often found alongside bluebells. If you come across any wild garlic when you are out and about, this recipe is a lovely way to make the best of it. This is an enriching dish full of the flavours of spring.

Homemade stock really is better made with the whole bird, so buy a whole chicken and joint it. Use the carcass and legs for this recipe and freeze the breasts (or use them in the Charred Chicken and Squash Salad here). To make the soup more substantial, cook 200g dried rice noodles and put them in the bowl before adding the soup, if you like.

Serves 4–6

3 tbsp sunflower oil, plus extra for roasting

1 large chicken, jointed (you can ask your butcher to do this) and breasts reserved for another recipe

3 celery sticks, roughly diced

1 onion, roughly diced

1 leek, roughly chopped

1 large garlic bulb, cloves peeled

100g wild garlic leaves, roughly sliced (keep the flowers if you have them)

4 spring onions, finely sliced on the diagonal

a small handful of mint leaves, ripped

a small handful of coriander leaves, ripped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan oven) gas mark 7. Heat the sunflower oil in a large saucepan over a high heat and add the chicken legs, skin side down, along with the wings and the carcass (you may need to do this in batches, depending on the size of your pan). Fry over a very high heat, to brown all over. Transfer to a roasting tin and coat in a little more oil and a pinch of salt. Roast for 15–18 minutes until a deep golden brown.

Add the vegetables to the same pan (there should still be some oil in there) and put it back over a medium heat. Sweat the veg for 2 minutes or until starting to soften but not colour.

Once roasted, return the chicken to the pan and pour over 2 litres cold water. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1½ hours. Strain the soup and return the broth to the pan. Take the chicken from the sieve, remove the skin and shred the meat from the bones, discarding the bones and skin. Leave the meat to one side.

Divide the wild garlic among serving bowls and top with the spring onions. Divide the shredded chicken between the bowls and add the herbs.

Taste the broth and check for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Ladle it over the chicken and greens in the bowl, and sprinkle over the garlic flowers, if you have them.

SWEET POTATO CHILLI BOWL

Perfect sustenance after a wintry coastal walk, the sweet potatoes and red lentils in this dish are lifted by the fresh herbs and chillies. It’s a super-tasty veg soup.

Serves 4–6

700g sweet potatoes, peeled and diced into 2.5cm chunks

2 red onions, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves, chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

100g red lentils

900ml vegetable stock

2 red chillies, deseeded and diced

200ml coconut cream

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO SERVE

4 tbsp flaked almonds

a handful of coriander leaves, roughly chopped

a handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped

1 red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced

2 limes, quartered

Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan oven) gas mark 6. Put the sweet potatoes on a baking tray and add the onions and garlic. Add the oil and toss to coat, then season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes.

Put the lentils in a heavy-based saucepan and add the stock and chillies. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, then blend with a hand blender.

When the roasted vegetables are ready, add them to the lentil pan. Pour in the coconut cream, then return to the boil and simmer lightly for 15 minutes until the vegetables have broken down with the lentils.

Turn up the oven temperature to 220°C (200°C fan oven) gas mark 7 and put the flaked almonds on a baking tray. Toast them in the oven for 2–3 minutes, watching them carefully, until they just start to colour. Take them out and leave the tray one one side.

Serve in soup bowls topped with the fresh herbs, chilli slices, toasted almonds and lime quarters.

SALT COD AND TOMATO STEW WITH SOURDOUGH TOASTS

Although salting cod sounds technical, it’s so easy and can be done at home overnight. It makes the fish firmer and more versatile to use in dishes where unsalted cod would just disintegrate. It also intensifies the flavour. Tomato and salt cod is a classic combination.

Serves 4–6

350g fine sea salt

3 rosemary sprigs

350g cod fillet, skinned and pin-boned (see tip)

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, diced

1 large carrot, diced

1 fennel bulb, diced

3 celery sticks, diced

125ml white wine

1 garlic clove, crushed

400g tin chopped tomatoes

800ml fish stock

¼ tsp smoked paprika

freshly ground black pepper

dill fronds and 4–6 tsp aioli (see here), to serve

FOR THE CROUTONS

10 slices of sourdough bread with crusts, cut into 1.5cm cubes

olive oil, for drizzling

sea salt

Start by salting the cod the day before. Put a good layer of the salt in the base of a shallow dish and add the rosemary. Lay the cod on top and sprinkle over the remaining salt, making sure the fish is completely covered. Cover with cling film and leave for 12 hours in the fridge. (Don’t leave it for longer than this or you will need to soak the fish for longer when you come to use it.)

The next day, thoroughly rinse the salt from the cod. Put the cod in a large bowl and cover with plenty of fresh cold water, then leave it to soak for 10 minutes before draining. Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan oven) gas mark 7.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat and cook the onion, carrot, fennel and celery. Add the wine and garlic, then simmer to reduce the liquid slightly. Add the tomatoes and bring to the boil. Pour in the stock and return to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Stir in the paprika and season with pepper. Add the cod and leave it to cook and start to break up in the soup — this shouldn’t take more than 2–3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and leave it to stand for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, to make the croutons, spread out the bread on a baking tray. Drizzle with olive oil and a light sprinkling of salt. Put them in the hot oven and bake for 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and toss them so that they brown evenly. Return to the oven to bake for a further 3 minutes or until golden. Serve the soup with the croutons and dill fronds on top and a teaspoon of aioli per bowl.

Pin-boning

Tiny bones, known as pin bones, will spoil your experience of eating fish if they are left in. To remove them, use standard tweezers or special fish tweezers. First run your fingers over the fish to locate the bones, which are hidden just beneath the surface. They lie at an angle, so you’ll need to grab the end with the tweezers and pull the bones upwards and sideways to remove them.

GREEN PEA SOUP WITH LEMON AND RICOTTA

Fresh peas are best in the late spring and early summer, though by using frozen peas this soup can be enjoyed at any time of the year. The recipe is very simple and takes less than 15 minutes to make.

Serves 4

750ml vegetable stock

700g fresh podded peas (or frozen peas)

4 tbsp ricotta cheese

zest of ½ lemon

75ml double cream

20g mint leaves, shredded

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the vegetable stock in a large saucepan over a high heat and bring it to a rolling boil, then add the peas. Simmer for 8–10 minutes, or until the peas are tender. (If using frozen peas, cook from frozen and simmer for about 5 minutes).

Meanwhile, mix the ricotta and lemon zest together in a small bowl.

Once the peas are cooked, remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cream and most of the mint leaves. Blend the soup in a blender or food processor, then season to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide the soup between four bowls and serve each topped with a tablespoon of the lemon ricotta and a few of the reserved mint leaves sprinkled over.

ST MAWES SMOKED HADDOCK CHOWDER

There is nearly always a pan of St Mawes Smoked Haddock Chowder cooking on the stove at the Hidden Hut, come rain or shine. More substantial than a soup, this chowder will serve up to six people with a good helping of bread on the side.

Serves 4–6

400g smoked haddock, with skin, pin-boned (see here)

1 bay leaf

1 litre whole milk

2 tbsp light olive oil

6 rashers of smoked streaky bacon, sliced

50g butter

2 onions, diced

3 celery sticks, diced

½ fennel bulb, diced

4 garlic cloves, crushed

50g plain flour

400g waxy potatoes, peeled and diced

300ml fish stock

165g tinned sweetcorn

3 tbsp chopped dill fronds

zest and juice of 1 lemon

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 spring onion, finely chopped, to garnish

FOR THE CROUTONS

80g bread with crusts, cut into 1.5cm cubes

2 tbsp olive oil

Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan oven) gas mark 6. First prepare the croutons. Spread out the bread on a baking tray. Drizzle with the olive oil and add a light sprinkling of salt. Bake for 3 minutes then remove from the oven and toss so that they brown evenly. Return to the oven for a further 3 minutes or until golden. Put to one side.

Now for the chowder. Put the haddock and bay leaf in a roasting tin and pour over the milk. Cover with foil and bake for 12 minutes. Discard the bay leaf, peel the skin from the haddock and flake the flesh into a bowl. Set aside and reserve the cooking milk.

Add the oil to a large saucepan over a medium-high heat and get it really hot. Fry the bacon until golden and crispy. Turn the heat down, add the butter and let it melt. Add the onions, celery, fennel and garlic, and sweat them in the butter until tender and translucent. Add the flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring, to cook out the taste of the flour. Then, bit by bit, add the reserved cooking milk, stirring to make a thick sauce. Leave to cook over a very low heat.

Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a saucepan, add the fish stock and bring to the boil. Cook for 8 minutes, then transfer the potatoes and stock to the gently simmering chowder base.

Finally, add the smoked haddock, sweetcorn, dill and lemon zest and juice and season to taste. Cook for 2 minutes more to let the flavours combine. Garnish with the croutons and chopped spring onion, and serve immediately.

A LITTLE LOBSTER GOES A LONG WAY

Lobsters are a luxury item and this is all about getting the most out of your catch or purchase. It is a way of serving four people a thoughtful two-course lunch using just two lobsters. Start with the summer vegetable cigars and tarragon dip, then finish with the velvety bisque and toasts.

FEAST

Serves 4

2 live or cooked cold-water lobsters

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE LOBSTER BISQUE

2 tbsp olive oil

50g butter

4 celery sticks, sliced

5 garlic cloves, chopped

2 onions, chopped

½ fennel bulb, sliced

1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped

½ tsp coriander seeds

¼ tsp fennel seeds

1 star anise

2 tbsp tomato purée

100ml Pernod

300ml white wine

2 litres fish stock

2 bay leaves

zest of 1 lemon and juice of ½ lemon

50g tarragon sprigs

2 tbsp double cream

FOR THE LOBSTER CLAW TOASTS

zest of ½ lemon

1 spring onion

a small handful of chives

1 large egg

2 slices of white sourdough bread or 1 huge slice

sunflower oil, for shallow-frying

FOR THE TARRAGON DIP

6 tbsp mayonnaise

6 tbsp crème fraîche

zest and juice of 2 limes

a handful of tarragon sprigs, leaves roughly chopped

FOR THE SUMMER VEGETABLE AND LOBSTER CIGARS

zest and juice of 1 lime

1 small mint sprig, leaves shredded

4 sheets of spring roll pastry

1 courgette, cut into thin strips

1 egg, beaten

sunflower oil, for deep-frying

If you’ve caught your own lobsters or are buying live ones, you’ll need to kill them before cooking. Put the live lobsters into the freezer for 30 minutes to sedate them. Once sedated, lie one flat, stomach side down, on a chopping board. Spike it firmly and quickly with a large sharp knife in the base of its head and swiftly cut straight down. Repeat with the other lobster. They are now ready to cook.

Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to the boil with a large pinch of salt. Once boiling, add the lobsters and set the timer to boil for 8 minutes. Remove the lobsters from the pan and refresh in iced water. Now continue with the preparation for cooked lobsters.

If you’re buying cooked lobsters, start here. Separate the claws and tail from the body: this can be done simply by twisting them. Now it’s time to pick out the tail meat. Try to keep it whole and pull it out in one piece, cutting down the back and discarding the intestinal vein. Put it onto a plate. Crack the claws with a nutcracker and pick the meat out into a bowl. Reserve the body shells. You are now ready to start cooking the different dishes.

To make the lobster bisque, heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan over a high heat and fry the lobster body shells for 5 minutes or until coloured and fragrant. Remove the shells and add the celery, garlic, onions, fennel, chilli and spices, then cook over a low heat for 5 minutes.

Add the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute. Then deglaze the pan with the Pernod, stirring to pick up the flavours in the pan. Add the wine and stock, then return the lobster body shells to the pan. Add the bay leaves, lemon zest and tarragon, and cook over a low heat for 30 minutes.

Pass the liquid through a fine sieve, discarding the other ingredients, then return it to the pan and cook over a high heat to reduce it by about one-quarter; this will take about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Keep aside until ready to serve.

To make the lobster claw toasts, put the claw meat in the bowl of a food processor and add the lemon zest, spring onion, chives and egg. Season with salt and pepper, then blitz. (Alternatively, chop the ingredients finely using a sharp knife, then put in a bowl. Beat the egg and stir it in.) Spread this wet mix on top of the bread slices.

Add the oil to a depth of 1cm in a large frying pan and heat until hot. Fry the toasts, lobster side down first. Turn over after 1 minute and fry for another 1 minute on the other side until golden. Put to one side until ready to serve.

To make the tarragon dip, put the mayonnaise and crème fraîche in a bowl and add the lime zest and juice and the tarragon. Mix well and season to taste with salt and pepper.

To make the summer vegetable and lobster cigars, shred the tail meat lengthways into long strips and place in a bowl. Add the lime zest and juice and the mint, and season with salt and pepper. Put to one side.

Lay out the spring roll pastry sheets, then cut each square in half diagonally to make eight triangles. Put the shredded lobster meat and courgette strips on the wide side of each triangle, then brush the edges of the pastry with the egg and roll up. Fold over the ends to close. The rolls are now ready to fry.

Fill a deep-fryer or a large heavy-based saucepan one-third full with oil and heat it to 175°C (test by frying a small cube of bread; it should brown in 40 seconds). Add the rolls and fry until golden. Serve the lobster cigars alongside the tarragon dip as a starter. Then when you’re ready for the bisque, warm it up on the stove and heat the toasts in a preheated oven for a few minutes so they are warm and crispy to serve.

WEST BRITON CRAB CLAWS WITH LEMON AND GARLIC BROTH

A fabulously messy thing to eat, these claws are served on a thick base of newspaper (the West Briton is particularly good!) with a hammer, a shellfish pick, a bucket for the shells and a bowl of lemon water for rinsing your hands.

Serves 4

1kg cooked crab claws

200g butter, softened

5 garlic cloves, crushed

a handful of parsley leaves, chopped

3 tbsp olive oil

crusty bread, to serve

newspaper (West Briton ideally!), a hammer, or nut crackers, and shellfish picks or skewers

FOR THE BROTH

200g butter

5 garlic cloves, crushed

1 lemon, cut into 8 wedges

2 bay leaves

200ml white wine

20g tarragon sprigs

10 black peppercorns

10 coriander seeds

2 tbsp sea salt

First, make the broth. Take a large saucepan that will hold the claws, add the butter and melt it over a medium heat. Add the garlic, lemon and bay leaves, and cook until the garlic just starts to colour. Pour in the wine and cook until reduced by half and there is no smell of alcohol. Add the remaining broth ingredients and 300ml water, then bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes.

Increase the heat to bring the broth to a gentle boil, then add the crab claws and return to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes to heat through.

Transfer the crab claws and broth to a large serving bowl. Put the butter in a separate bowl and add the garlic, parsley and olive oil. Mix together well, then spoon over the hot crab claws and broth to make a buttery sauce.

Cover your table with sheets of the newspaper of your choice and put the bowl of crab claws and broth in the middle. You will also need a small hammer or nut crackers, a bucket for the shells and a bowl of lemon water for rinsing your hands.

To eat, scoop the crab claws out of the broth and crack with the hammer using just enough pressure to crack the shell without shattering it into lots of small pieces. Pull out the meat using the hard cartilage in the centre of the claw to help; if you are lucky it will come out in one piece. Alternatively, extract or pick out the meat using a shellfish pick or skewer. Mop up the buttery cooking broth with plenty of crusty bread.

FRITTO MISTO

There are no rules as to what you fry when making a fritto misto — it’s about a collection of flavours and textures. I’ve added some seafood here, but you can keep it veggie if you prefer. If you do include seafood in your fritto misto, put some aioli (see here) out on the table too.

Serves 4

sunflower oil, for deep-frying

1 small butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and finely sliced lengthways

1 fennel bulb, finely sliced lengthways

1 red onion, finely sliced lengthways

2 red peppers, deseeded and finely sliced lengthways

500g squid, cleaned, body sliced into fine rings and tentacles left whole

1 lemon, finely sliced into rings

a handful of drained tinned chickpeas, rinsed

1 chilli, finely chopped

a handful of mixed soft herbs

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve

FOR THE BATTER

125g cornflour

125g plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

a pinch of sea salt

juice of 1 lemon

To make the batter, sift the dry ingredients into a bowl. Slowly add 275ml cold water while whisking to form a lump-free batter. Add the lemon juice and whisk once more. Put to one side while you prep your veg.

Fill a deep-fryer or a heavy-based saucepan one-third full with oil and heat it to 180°C (test by frying a small cube of bread; it should brown in 40 seconds). Dip the squash slices into the batter and then lower each one carefully into the hot oil. Cook for 3 minutes or until they start to caramelise then lift out of the pan using a slotted spoon and drain off the excess oil. Place on a few sheets of kitchen paper and dab dry.

Batter and cook the remaining vegetables, squid, lemon slices, chickpeas and chilli in the same way, although the softer ingredients will take slightly less time: 1–2 minutes.

Batter and fry the herbs separately — they will take less than a minute. Season all the battered ingredients with salt and pepper. Serve as a beautiful stack in the centre of the table, with wedges of lemon.

SCALLOP SALAD WITH HOG’S PUDDING, GINGERED PEAR AND WATERCRESS SALAD

Here is a classy lunch that is surprisingly simple to achieve. The flavours in this salad are quintessentially Cornish with the salty hog’s pudding and the delicate umami of the local scallops. The sweet and bitter notes of the gingered pear and watercress bring it all together. It is great with a glass of Camel Valley fizz.

Serves 4

2 pears, peeled, quartered and cored

a squeeze of lemon juice

sunflower oil, for frying

100g hog’s pudding, cut into matchsticks

12 Cornish king scallops, corals removed and discarded and white meat halved horizontally

100g watercress, thick stalks discarded

FOR THE DRESSING

10g piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated

2 tbsp orange juice

½ tsp Dijon mustard

1 tbsp mild olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

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