Neven’s Food from the Sun
Neven Meguire

To Amelda, who shares my passion for food – a wonderful travelling companion, colleague, friend and wife. Thank you foryour love and support. Where to next?

Table of Contents

Cover Page

Title Page

Dedication

Introduction

Small Bites: Appetisers, Mezze and Tapas

Oven-Roasted Dublin Bay Prawns (Langoustines) with Tomato and Chilli

Roasted Red Pepper and Chilli Hummus with Crispy Tortilla Chips

Halloumi with Griddled Pitta and Red Onion, Bean and Tomato Salad

Bruschetta Platter

Roasted Aubergine and Cumin Soup

Crispy Fried Squid with Harissa and Crème Fraîche

Chicken and Wild Mushroom Wontons with Chinese Black Bean Sauce

Vietnamese Spring Rolls with Plum Sauce

Aubergine and Mozzarella Parcels with Pesto and Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Cracked Patatas Bravas

Chicken Satay with Pickled Cucumber Salad

Poached Oysters with Spinach and Lemongrass

Marinated Olives

Spiced Glazed Almonds

Poultry

Turkey Moussaka

Spicy Chicken and Mango Noodles

Blackened Chicken with Roasted Red Pepper and Avocado Salsa

Chicken and Broad Bean Paella with Clams

Tea-Smoked Barbary Duck

Creamy Chicken Korma

Butterflied Poussin

Vietnamese-Style Grilled Five-Spice Chicken Thigh Salad

Thai Yellow Chicken Curry

Crispy Shredded Chinese Duck Salad

Turkey Enchiladas with Chilli Sauce

Harissa Roast Chicken with Roasted Sweet Potatoes

Meat

Inverted Cashel Blue Burger with Roasted Tomatoes and Red Onion Salad

Grilled Rib-Eye Steak with Smoked Paprika and Red Pepper Butter

Moroccan Lamb Tagine with Herb Couscous

Chilli Cornbread Pie

Lamb Shanks Osso Bucco

Barbecued Brine Pork Chops with Balsamic Glaze

Caramelised Pork Belly with Mustard Potato Purée

Parma-Wrapped Pork Fillet stuffed with Pesto

Butterflied Lamb with Spiced Mint and Yoghurt Rub

Lamb Rogan Josh

Rack of Lamb with Tapenade Toasts and Wilted Spinach

Porchetta with Sautéed Potatoes

Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup (Pho Bo)

Fish and Shellfish

Black Cod with a Sweet Basil Crust and Roasted Vine Tomatoes

Mackerel with Puy Lentils and Sherry Vinaigrette

Seared Scallops with Date Jam and Curried Cauliflower Purée

Baked Sea Bass with Tomatoes and Olives

Grilled Salmon with Avocado and Sun-Dried Tomato Dressing

Fried Butterflied Sardines with Aubergine Chutney

Seared Tuna with Sweetcorn, Red Pepper and Lime Salsa

Smoked Fish Platter with Smoked Salmon Brandade

Roasted Haddock with Smoked Bacon, Haricot Bean Purée and Wilted Spinach

Hake with Clams, Fennel and Cherry Tomatoes in Parchment Paper

Seared Swordfish with Salsa Verde

Monkfish in Thai Yellow Curry Broth

Crispy Lemon Sole with Chilli Jam and Curried Mayonnaise

Vegetables and Salads

Gorgonzola, Pear and Rocket Salad

Chunky Greek Salad with Feta Cheese

Salade Niçoise

Pomegranate, Orange and Mint Salad

Chargrilled Thai Beef Salad

Italian Bean Salad with Griddled Red Onion

Piedmont Roasted Peppers with Feta Cheese

Chargrilled Vegetable Layered Sandwich with Tapenade

Shallot Tarte Tatin

Pumpkin, Spinach and Chickpea Curry with Flatbread

Roasted Stuffed Aubergines with Goat’s Cheese and Cherry Tomatoes

Stir-Fried Baby Pak Choi with Mushrooms

Oven-Baked Tomatoes with Ratatouille and a Basil Crust

Griddled Asparagus with Roasted Red Peppers and Parmesan

Beetroot Carpaccio with Creamed Goat’s Cheese

Baked Mediterranean Vegetables with Tomato, Cooleeney Cheese and Parmesan

Dairy and Eggs

Huevos Rancheros

Garlic Yoghurt Cheese with Crudités and Pitta Bread Fingers

Goat’s Cheese Pâté with Apricot Relish

Quick Quesadillas with Chilli Salsa and Soured Cream

Pizza Brie Tart

Baked Eggs with Tomatoes, Chorizo and Manchego Cheese

Twice-Baked Cheese Soufflé

Mozzarella Fritters with Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Sauce

Warm Crab and Spinach Tart

Pancetta Frittata

Pulses, Grains and Pasta

Smoked Salmon and Saffron Orzo

Tabbouleh Salad

Porcini and Artichoke Pasta with Thyme and Lemon

Puy Lentil, Red Onion and Sun-Dried Tomato Salad

Swiss Chard and Ricotta Ravioli with Parmesan Shavings and Toasted Pine Nuts

Singapore Noodles

Lemon and Herb Couscous with Roasted Spicy Root Vegetables

Seafood Lasagne with Salmon Mousse and Prawn Foam

Oven-roasted Cannellini Beans with Sage and Tomato

Roasted Butternut Squash, Crispy Pancetta and Pine Nut Pasta

Mussel and Saffron Risotto with Leek and Courgette

Crispy Wild Mushroom Risotto Balls with Leek and Smoked Bacon

Baked Macaroni Pie with Dublin Bay Prawns (Langoustines)

Chicken and Chorizo Rice Bake

Sweet Things

Pineapple Tarte Tatin

Peach Open Tartlets with Fromage Frais Sorbet

Churros with Hot Chocolate

Orange Polenta Cake with Rosemary Syrup

Passionfruit Tart

Summer Fruit Crumble with Citrus Mascarpone Cream

Coconut Toasted Meringue with Lemon Curd Cream and Tropical Fruit

Buttermilk Pannacotta with Poached Rhubarb

Catalan Crème Pots

Almond and Apricot Tart with Amaretto Custard

Coconut Pearls in Coconut Milk with Caramelised Bananas

Coconut Crème Caramel with Malibu and Pineapple

Pear Belle-Hélène

Lemon and Mango Cheesecake

Larder

Beef Stock

Vegetable Stock

Chicken Stock

Five-Spice Balsamic Cream

Infused Oils

Acknowledgements

Index

About the Author

Copyright

About the Publisher

Introduction

I love travelling. Every January my wife, Amelda, and I head away to far flung places. In recent years we have been to Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, Australia, Bali and the USA. And wherever we go I love to sample the local food –tasty Thai noodles, rich Moroccan tagines, spicy Mexican food, delicious Italian pasta, fresh Greek salads and so much more. There are many wonderful new tastes, flavours and ingredients out there to discover.

I also enjoy visiting the local markets, such as the amazing Sineu village in Palma, Mallorca. There is a lot of pleasure to be had in finding exotic vegetables, rifling through enormous sacks of spices and sampling local cheeses and meats. And I love to get down to the ports to see the boats coming in and the freshest fish on offer. In this book I wanted to draw on some of these holiday moments with recipes based on dishes I enjoyed abroad –for you to cook at home.

The food we eat is constantly changing and developing. People are becoming more adventurous. Supermarkets are stocking ever increasing ranges of exotic ingredients and excellent fresh food, and great specialist stores are popping up everywhere. You should have no difficulty finding all the ingredients in my recipes. Those holiday flavours no longer have to be just a distant memory.

No matter how much cooking experience you have, the food you serve is only as good as the ingredients you use and I like to buy local, seasonal produce and to support my

local suppliers who provide fresh, top quality goods. Your butcher and fishmonger will offer better value than anything pre-packed and they are experts when it comes to preparing meat and fish exactly how you want it. They are worth a visit.

Each of the nine chapters in the book is themed around a different type of ingredient. There are ideas for whatever is in your fridge whether you’re preparing breakfast, a quick supper, a barbecue or a special occasion family feast. I have also included a larder chapter; a good basic stock is essential as the body and soul of so many soups and sauces.

Holiday dining is always pleasurable–you get to enjoy the sun while someone else cooks your lunch! I enjoy the change for a while but honestly I am never happier than when I am cooking. To help you to revive those memories I have tried to keep the recipes in this book as straightforward as possible. A few require that extra bit of effort, but I think they are definitely worth it. Join me in these new tastes, flavours and combinations, all with the memory of holidays and that hint of the sun.

Happy Cooking!

Small bites: appetisers, mezze and tapas

Oven-roasted Dublin Bay Prawns (Langoustines) with Tomato and Chilli

Serves 4

900g (2lb) ripe tomatoes, peeled (see page 119), halved and seeded

1 small red chilli, halved and seeded

1 small onion, peeled and roughly chopped

1 red pepper, halved, seeded and roughly chopped

1 large garlic clove, peeled small handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley and basil leaves

2 tbsp olive oil

100g (4oz) Serrano ham slices, finely shredded

25g (1oz) plain flour large pinch of sweet paprika

12 raw large Dublin Bay prawns (langoustines), shelled and left whole

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

1 lemon, cut into wedges crusty bread, to serve

This dish is a great example of Spanish cuisine – the unique flavours of the ingredients enhance but do not smother each other. I was inspired to make this by Gillian Bowler, when she was a contestant on RTE’s The Restaurant. King prawns would also work well instead of Dublin Bay prawns.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. Place the tomatoes, chilli, onion, red pepper, garlic clove and herbs in a food processor. Pulse until finely chopped.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a frying pan set over a medium heat, add the tomato mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Gently fry for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until reduced and thickened. Transfer to an ovenproof dish, then stir in the Serrano ham.

Mix the flour and paprika in a shallow bowl and lightly coat the prawns in the mixture. Heat the remaining oil in a very hot frying pan and quickly sear the prawns on both sides until golden brown. Place them in the ovenproof dish on top of the sauce and drizzle over any oil left in the frying pan. Roast for 6–8 minutes or until the prawns are just cooked through and slightly firm. Garnish with parsley and serve at once with lemon wedges and a separate basket of crusty bread to mop up all the delicious juices.

Roasted Red Pepper and Chilli Hummus with Crispy Tortilla Chips

Serves 4-6 | VEGETARIAN

1 large red pepper olive oil, for cooking

1 red chilli (mild)

400g can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed

juice of 1 lemon

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

good pinch of ground cumin

100ml (3¹₂fl oz) tahini (sesame seed paste), optional

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil pinch of sweet or smoked paprika

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

For the tortilla chips

4-6 soft flour tortillas olive oil, for brushing

This variation on traditional hummus has a fantastic, vibrant colour. Here it is served with home-cooked crispy tortilla chips, which are much lower in fat than the ones you buy. It’s also great spread on crackers or chunks of warm bread, or scooped up with toasted garlic bread.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6. To prepare the tortilla chips, place two baking trays in the oven for about 5 minutes until well heated. Meanwhile, brush both sides of the soft flour tortillas with olive oil, then cut in half. Cut each half into four triangles and arrange on the heated baking sheets. Place in the oven for 3–4 minutes until crisped up.

Place the whole red pepper in a roasting tin and drizzle with a little olive oil. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes, then add the whole chilli and drizzle over a little more olive oil. Continue to cook for another 15–20 minutes until both vegetables are completely tender and nicely charred. Transfer to a plastic food bag and leave to cool completely. This will help to steam the skins off. When cool enough to handle, peel both, cut in half and remove the cores and seeds. Roughly chop the flesh.

Place the red pepper and chilli flesh in a food processor with the chickpeas, lemon juice, garlic, cumin, tahini (if using) and 4 tablespoons of water. Blend to a creamy purée. Taste, then add more lemon juice, garlic, cumin or some salt if needed. Turn out into a wide serving bowl, and smooth the surface with the back of a spoon. Drizzle with the extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle over a little paprika and freshly ground black pepper. Garnish with the parsley. To serve, arrange the crispy tortilla chips on a platter next to the bowl of roasted red pepper and chilli hummus.

VARIATION
Avocado Hummus

Instead of the red pepper and chilli, you will need one ripe avocado. Hass avocados are available all year round and have a lovely creamy texture, but other varieties are also fine to use. Cut the avocado in half, remove the stone and scoop out the flesh into the food processor with the rest of the ingredients. Proceed with the final stage of the recipe as described opposite.

Halloumi with Griddled Pitta and Red Onion, Bean and Tomato Salad

Serves 4 | VEGETARIAN

250g (9oz) halloumi cheese

1 tsp sweet or smoked paprika

1 tbsp olive oil

juice of ¹/₂ lemon

4 white pitta bread

For the salad

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

finely grated rind and juice of ¹/₂ lemon

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

400g can of haricot beans, drained and rinsed

12 vine cherry tomatoes, halved

1 small red onion, peeled and diced

12 pitted black olives

1 tsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tsp chopped fresh mint Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

I first enjoyed halloumi while on holiday in Cyprus, where it has been produced for centuries. It is a semi-hard cheese prepared from the milk of sheep, cows or goats and then sometimes rolled in wild mint. It has a distinct and pleasant flavour and is versatile to cook with, as its soft springy texture always retains its shape even when fried or grilled.

To prepare the salad, place the garlic, lemon rind and juice and olive oil in a large pan set over a low heat, stirring to combine. Stir in the haricot beans with the tomatoes, red onion, olives and herbs, add salt and pepper to taste, then leave to warm gently for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and place in a bowl to marinate for 1 hour, which will allow the flavours to develop.

When ready to cook the halloumi, heat a griddle pan and a frying pan, until both are very hot. Cut the halloumi cheese into four thick slices and dip them in cold water, then dust all over with the paprika. Add the olive oil to the heated frying pan, then add the halloumi slices. Fry for 4 minutes, turning once, until golden. Remove the pan from the heat and squeeze the lemon juice over the cheese.

Meanwhile, arrange the pitta bread on the griddle pan or under a preheated grill and cook for 1 minute, turning once until puffed up and lightly charred. Alternatively, put the pitta in a toaster for a minute or two. Cut into slices on the diagonal.

Spoon the red onion, bean and tomato salad into the centre of four plates and arrange a piece of grilled halloumi on top, spooning over the lemon-flavoured pan juices. Arrange the griddled pitta slices on the side to serve.

Bruschetta Platter

Serves 4-6

12 thick slices of rustic bread, preferably sourdough

1 garlic clove, peeled and halved

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Warm grilled breads with various toppings appear all over the Mediterranean, and make the perfect nibble at a drinks party. The key to success with this dish is to use the finest-quality ingredients. Splash out on the best extra-virgin olive oil and get some lovely rustic bread, or if you’re really lucky you might be able to find wood-fired sourdough.

To prepare your bruschetta, preheat the grill to medium or heat a griddle pan and use to toast the slices of bread on both sides. Remove the toast from the heat and immediately rub one side with a piece of garlic.

Drizzle over the olive oil and cut any very large slices of toast in half. Use immediately with a selection of the delicious toppings that follow. Arrange on large serving platters or trays to serve.

Goat’s cheese with fig and onion marmalade

VEGETARIAN

2 tbsp olive oil

3 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced

225g (8oz) ready-to-eat dried figs, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 small glass red wine

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tsp caster sugar

good pinch of chopped fresh thyme

salt and freshly ground black pepper

450g (1lb) goat’s cheese with rind

Heat the olive oil in a large pan and sauté the sliced red onions until softened. Stir in the chopped figs, crushed garlic, red wine and the balsamic vinegar. Simmer for about 10 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated, then stir in the teaspoon of caster sugar and the thyme. Season to taste and leave to cool completely, then spread onto the prepared bruschetta. Thinly slice the goat’s cheese and arrange on top. Place briefly under the grill until the cheese is lightly melting and brown on top.

Artichoke and Parmesan purée

VEG ETARIAN

300g jar of artichoke hearts in olive oil (or 400g can of artichoke hearts in water)

handful of flat-leaf parsley

50g (2 oz) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

juice of ¹₂ lemon

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper

Drain the artichoke hearts and place in a food processor with the flat-leaf parsley, Parmesan cheese and the lemon juice. Blitz to form a smooth paste, then with the motor still running, slowly add the olive oil until well combined. Add salt and pepper to taste, then spread thickly over the prepared bruschetta.

Parma ham-wrapped asparagus with tapenade

12 slices Parma ham

12 asparagus spears, blanched (plunged into boiling water for 1 minute, then rinsed)

For the tapenade

250g (9oz) pitted black olives

juice of 1 lemon

2 tbsp chopped capers

6 anchovy fillets, chopped

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make a rough-textured tapenade, chop the black olives and mix in a bowl with the lemon juice, capers, anchovy fillets, crushed garlic and the chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper and add enough olive oil to form a fairly thick paste. Spread each slice of Parma ham with some of the tapenade and then wrap the slices around the blanched asparagus spears. Spread the rest of the tapenade over the prepared bruschetta and put the Parma ham-wrapped asparagus spears on top.

Roasted Aubergine and Cumin Soup

Serves 4-6 | VEGETARIAN

3 large aubergines

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 red peppers

1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

Vitsp cumin seeds

900ml (1¹₂ pints) vegetable stock (see page 213)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

The silky texture of aubergine makes this a particularly rich and creamy soup. At only 150 calories per serving, it’s also the perfect low-fat option.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways and trim off the stalks. Brush the cut sides with a little of the oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Place cut-side up in a roasting tin along with the whole red peppers and bake for 30–35 minutes or until the flesh of the aubergine is tender and the skin of the red pepper is blackened and blistered.

Remove the vegetables from the oven, put the peppers in a plastic food bag and leave to cool completely. Meanwhile, roughly chop the cooked aubergines, place in a food processor and blend to a purée. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Once the peppers are cool, remove from the bag, peel away the skin and chop the flesh, discarding the seeds. Place in a food processor and whiz until smooth.

Heat a tablespoon of the remaining olive oil in a large saucepan set over a medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for 2–3 minutes until they are softened but not browned. Stir in the cumin seeds and cook for another minute, stirring constantly. Add the roasted aubergine purée and the stock, stirring to combine. Cook over a low heat for 15 minutes until the flavours are well combined and the mixture is heated through. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Purée the soup with a hand-held blender and ladle into deep soup bowls. Spoon the red pepper purée into the centre and swirl it gently into the soup. To serve, drizzle lightly with the remaining olive oil.

Crispy Fried Squid with Harissa and Crème Fraîche

Serves 4

about 1.2 litres (2 pints) vegetable oil, for deep-frying

450g (1lb) medium-sized squid, cleaned

2 tbsp cornflour

3 tbsp fine semolina

2 tbsp sesame seeds

1 tsp ground paprika

2 tsp harissa paste

120ml (4fl oz) crème fraîche

1 medium-hot red chilli (optional), thinly sliced on the diagonal

2 spring onions (optional), trimmed and thinly sliced on the diagonal

salt and freshly ground black pepper

In Spain there is a type of flour milled especially for frying, called harina de trigo. The closest equivalent in the UK and Ireland is finely ground semolina. For this recipe it’s crucial not to overcook the squid or it will become tough and rubbery.

Pour the oil into a large, heavy-based saucepan or wok and set over a high heat. Alternatively, heat a deep-fat fryer to 190°C (375°F). Cut the body pouch of each squid open along one side and score the inner side with the tip of a small, sharp knife into a fine criss-cross pattern, being careful not to cut all the way through the flesh. Then cut each pouch in half lengthways, then across into 5cm (2in) pieces. Separate the tentacles into pairs.

Put the cornflour, semolina, sesame seeds, paprika and a teaspoon of salt into a plastic food bag. Add the prepared squid, close the bag and shake and toss to coat. Tip out onto a tray, knocking off any excess coating, and leave for 1–2 minutes so that the cornflour mixture becomes slightly damp. This will give a crispier finish.

When the oil is hot enough (it should sizzle fiercely when you drop in a small cube of white bread), fry the squid in batches for 1–2 minutes until it is covered in a crunchy golden coating. Drain on kitchen paper.

Meanwhile, mix together the harissa and crème fraîche in a small bowl and add salt and pepper to taste. Tip the squid onto a serving plate and sprinkle over some chilli and spring onions if you wish. Place the harissa and crème fraîche dip alongside to serve.

Chicken and Wild Mushroom Wontons with Chinese Black Bean Sauce

Serves 6

2 tbsp olive oil

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

2 shallots, peeled and diced

175g (6oz) mixed mushrooms (such as shiitake, chestnut and chanterelle), finely chopped

1 tbsp butter, softened

1 tbsp Madeira or ruby port

120ml (4fl oz) double cream

2 tbsp chopped fresh mixed herbs (such as chives, basil and flat-flat parsley)

1 large skinless chicken breast fillet, diced

3 eggs

1 packet wonton wrappers (contains about 30 square wrappers), thawed if frozen

1 pak choi

1 tbsp toasted sesame oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the black bean sauce

2 tbsp Chinese black beans

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tbsp light muscovado sugar

1 tsp tomato ketchup

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

300ml (10fl oz) beef stock (see page 212)

This is one of the most popular starters in my restaurant. Packets of wonton wrappers can be found in specialist Asian stores, good delis and even some large supermarkets. The wontons are cooked in two stages, first poached and then steamed; if you don’t have a steamer, you could just place them in a pan of boiling water.

To make the sauce, place the black beans in a bowl and cover with hot water, then leave to soak for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, place the balsamic vinegar in a large saucepan with the sugar, tomato ketchup and soy sauce. Cook on a high heat for 1 minute, stirring, then reduce the heat to low, stir in the beef stock and simmer for 10–15 minutes until reduced and thickened. Drain and add the beans, return to a simmer and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat, leave to cool completely, then cover with clingfilm and set aside until needed.

To prepare the mushrooms for the filling, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the garlic, shallots and mushrooms, stir to combine, then add the butter and sautè for 5 minutes. Stir in the Madeira or port, 1 tablespoon of the cream and half the herbs. Season with salt and pepper and leave to cool.

Place the chicken breast in a food processor with two of the eggs, half of the mushroom mixture and the remaining cream. Add two pinches of salt and blend to make a smooth mousse. Place the mousse in a bowl, then stir in the rest of the mushrooms and herbs. Mix well to combine and season to taste.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and keep it boiling while you assemble the wontons. Lay out 18 wonton wrappers on a clean work surface. Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl with a little water to make an egg wash. Brush the edges of each wrapper with the egg wash, then place a teaspoon of the chicken mixture into the centre of each one, being careful not to overfill. Bring all the edges up to meet in the middle and pinch together firmly to seal.

The wontons are now ready to poach. Put them into the boiling water as soon as possible after filling them and poach for about 2 minutes until cooked through and floating at the top.

The next stage is to steam the wontons, although this can be done up to 24 hours later. If you are preparing the wontons in advance, lay them out in a single layer on a tray and leave to cool. Cover with clingfilm and chill. Otherwise, you can steam them immediately.

When ready to steam, arrange the wontons in a single layer in a steamer and cook for about 5 minutes until heated through. If you don’t have a steamer, put the wontons in a large pan of boiling water, cover with a lid and allow to cook for 4–5 minutes.

Separate the leaves of the pak choi and trim down the stalks. Slice each leaf in half lengthways, then plunge into boiling water for 30 seconds; drain well. Heat the sesame oil in a large frying pan or wok and toss the pak choi until just tender and nicely glazed. Season with salt and pepper.

Arrange some of the pak choi on each warmed plate, along with three of the steamed wontons. Add a small dish of the black bean sauce on the side of each plate to serve.

Vietnamese Spring Rolls with Plum Sauce

Serves 4–6

25g (1oz) vermicelli rice noodles

7g (¹₄oz) bunch of fresh coriander, including the roots

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

1 tsp freshly ground white pepper

250g (9oz) raw tiger or Dublin Bay prawns (langoustines), peeled, deveined and chopped

1 tsp Thai fish sauce

1 tsp light soy sauce

6 x 25cm (10in) spring-roll wrappers, thawed if frozen

2 egg yolks, beaten

about 1.2 litres (2 pints) groundnut oil, for deep-frying

24 iceberg or Webb lettuce leaves, trimmed, and fresh mint leaves, to serve

For the plum sauce

100g (4oz) caster sugar

2 tbsp rice wine vinegar

6 Chinese preserved plums, rinsed if in brine

pinch of salt

1 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander

The perfect starter for any Oriental-themed meal! (See the photograph on page 22.) In Vietnam, the rolls generally contain minced pork, but here I’ve used prawns for a different result. They’re easy to make and the specialist spring-roll wrappers and preserved plums can be bought from Chinese grocers and some larger supermarkets. You can use two ripe fresh plums, with the stones removed, if you prefer.

To make the plum sauce, place 225ml (8fl oz) of water in a heavy-based saucepan with the sugar, vinegar, plums and some salt. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the liquid has reduced by about a quarter. Remove from the heat and stir in the chopped coriander, then use a hand-held blender to mix to a smooth sauce. Transfer to a serving bowl and allow to cool.

Place the noodles in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for about 5 minutes until softened or according to the packet instructions. Rinse in cold water and, using kitchen scissors, snip the noodles into small lengths. Set aside.

Place the fresh coriander in a mini blender or pestle and mortar with the garlic and white pepper. Blend or pound to a paste, then transfer to a bowl. Stir in the prawns with the fish and soy sauces, then set aside for 5 minutes to allow the flavours to combine.

Cut the wrappers into quarters to make twenty-four 6cm (2¹/₂in) squares. Place a tablespoon of the prawn mixture near one corner of each square, fold in both sides on the diagonal and roll up tightly. Brush a small amount of the beaten egg yolk onto the open end and press the edge closed to seal the spring roll. Repeat with the rest of the wrappers and the remaining prawn mixture.

Place the rolls on a rack until ready to fry. Add the oil to a wok or deep-sided pan and heat until very hot and slightly smoking. Gently drop in as many rolls as will fit in one layer. Carefully fry them for 2–3 minutes until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper.

Place a hot spring roll on each lettuce leaf and garnish with mint. To eat, wrap the rolls in the lettuce and dip into the plum sauce.

Aubergine and Mozzarella Parcels with Pesto and Sun-dried Tomatoes

Serves 4 | VEGETARIAN

1 large aubergine

120ml (4fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

finely grated rind of 1 lemon

1 ripe beef tomato

2 x 100g (4oz) balls of mozzarella cheese

about 2 tbsp basil pesto

8 sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, drained and halved

salt and freshly ground black pepper

lightly dressed rocket salad (see page 100), to serve

8 cocktail sticks

These are great for a barbecue, as a starter or an exciting side dish with any kind of meat. They can be made in advance and simply popped on the barbecue just before you want to eat. You could also replace the mozzarella with feta or halloumi.

Trim off the stalk end of the aubergine, then cut lengthways into eight slices, 5mm (1/4in) thick, discarding the ends. Arrange the slices in a single layer on a large baking sheet.

Preheat a griddle pan until very hot, or prepare a barbecue with medium–hot coals. Mix together the olive oil, garlic and lemon rind in a small bowl, season with salt and pepper, then brush the mixture over the aubergine slices. Place the aubergine on the heated griddle pan or the barbecue and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side until charred. Be careful not to cook for any longer or the aubergine will become too soft. Remove from the heat and leave to cool a little.

Slice the top and bottom off the tomato and cut the rest into four thick slices, then cut each slice in half again to make eight pieces in total. Cut each mozzarella ball into four slices. Place the cooked aubergine slices on a clean work surface and place a piece of tomato in the middle of each slice. Arrange a slice of mozzarella on top, then add a small dollop of the basil pesto. Arrange the sun-dried tomatoes on top and season with salt and pepper. Flip over both ends of the aubergine to enclose the filling and secure each parcel with a cocktail stick.

Brush the outside of each parcel with the rest of the garlic and lemon oil and return to the griddle pan or barbecue for 1–2 minutes on each side or until they are heated through and lightly golden. Again, be careful not to overcook. To serve, arrange on warmed plates with the rocket salad.

Cracked Patatas Bravas

Serves 4 | VEGETARIAN

675g (1¹₂lb) baby new potatoes, scrubbed

4 garlic cloves, unpeeled

2 tbsp olive oil

1 red onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced

good pinch of dried chilli flakes

¹₂ tsp sweet or smoked paprika

good pinch of dark muscovado sugar

400g can of chopped tomatoes

1 tbsp sun-dried tomato purée

1 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

This is a Spanish tapas favourite and every tapas bar tends to have its own version. It makes a delicious snack in its own right, but is also a fantastic accompaniment to Butterflied Poussin (see the photograph on page 49) or with Blackened Chicken with Roasted Red Pepper and Avocado Salsa (page 41).

Wrap the baby new potatoes in a clean tea towel and hit them gently with a wooden mallet or rolling pin to crack them lightly. Flatten each garlic clove in the same way.

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion for a minute or two to soften. Tip in the cracked potatoes and garlic and continue to cook for 10–12 minutes until golden, stirring regularly.

Sprinkle the chilli flakes over the potato mixture along with the paprika and sugar. Season with salt and pepper and give everything a good stir to coat the potatoes evenly. Fold in the tomatoes and tomato purée and bring to a gentle simmer.

Cover the frying pan with a lid (a large enough plate would also do the job) and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes or so to ensure that the mixture cooks evenly, until the potatoes are completely tender and coated in a thick to mato sauce. Stir in the basil and then tip into warmed individual bowls, or serve as a side dish.

Chicken Satay with Pickled Cucumber Salad

Serves 4

4 tbsp dark soy sauce

2 tsp clear honey

2 tsp medium curry powder

450g (1lb) skinless chicken fillets, cut into long strips

salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the pickled cucumber salad

4 tbsp rice wine vinegar

2 tbsp caster sugar

large pinch of salt

¹₂ small cucumber, peeled, halved, seeded and thinly sliced

For the dipping sauce

2 tbsp crunchy peanut butter

2 tsp dark soy sauce

1tsp light muscovado sugar juice of ¹₂ lime

120ml (4fl oz) coconut milk

¹₂ red chilli, seeded and finely diced

2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

6 wooden skewers (15cm (6in) in length), soaked

This is a classic South-East Asian street food that I enjoyed on a recent trip to the region. Satay has a wonderful balance of sweet and spicy flavours that penetrate the chicken. It is perfect for cooking on the barbecue; just make sure you soak the skewers first.

First prepare the pickled cucumber salad. Place the vinegar in a bowl and stir in the sugar and salt until dissolved. Tip in the sliced cucumber, stir to combine and set aside to allow the flavours to develop.

Preheat a griddle pan until smoking hot, or preheat the grill. Whisk together the soy sauce, honey and curry powder in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the chicken pieces. Leave to marinate for a few minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce. Heat the peanut butter in a small saucepan over a low heat and stir in the soy sauce, sugar and lime juice. Gradually whisk in the coconut milk until you have achieved a smooth sauce. Stir in the chilli and coriander, then leave to cool.

Thread the chicken pieces onto the pre-soaked wooden skewers and arrange on the griddle pan or under the grill. Cook for 4–6 minutes, turning once or twice, until cooked through.

Arrange the chicken satay skewers on warmed plates. Divide the dipping sauce between individual ramekins and place to one side of the skewers. Drain the pickled cucumber salad, add to the plates and serve at once.

Poached Oysters with Spinach and Lemongrass

Serves 4

16 oysters (Pacific if available)

25g (1oz) butter

225g (8oz) fresh spinach leaves, washed and tough stalks removed

For the lemongrass sauce

1 tsp softened butter

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

2 lemongrass stalks, outer leaves removed and core finely chopped

finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon

150ml (5fl oz) dry white wine

100ml (3¹₂fl oz) double cream

salt and freshly ground white pepper

This is the perfect recipe if you want to try cooking or eating oysters for the first time. It might sound fancy, but it’s actually very easy and guaranteed to impress your guests. You can ask your fishmonger to remove all the oysters from their shells or follow the instructions below.

Scrub the oyster shells thoroughly. Place an oyster on a tea towel on a firm surface, flattest shell uppermost and hinge towards you. Gather the tea towel around the oyster and grip it firmly so there is a thick wad of cloth protecting your hand. With the other hand, insert an oyster knife or a sharp rigid blade into the gap in the hinge and twist upwards to snap the shells apart. Slide the blade along the inside of the upper shell to sever the muscle that keeps the shells together. Lift off the top shell and run the knife under the oyster to remove it from the bottom shell. Repeat with the rest of the oysters. Clean the bottom shells and reserve for serving.

To make the lemongrass sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the shallot, lemongrass and lemon rind and cook for 2–3 minutes until softened but not browned, stirring occasionally. Pour in the wine and simmer until reduced by half, stirring at intervals. Stir in the cream and bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for 5 minutes until slightly reduced and thickened. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the lemon juice. Blitz with a hand-held blender and pass through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan. Keep warm over a low heat.

Just before you poach the oysters, melt the butter in a large pan and add the spinach and a pinch of salt. Cook for a minute or so over a high heat until just wilted, then drain off any excess liquid and spoon a mound of spinach into each oyster shell. Arrange on heated plates and keep warm. Add the oysters to the warm lemongrass sauce, still over a low heat, and gently poach for 30 seconds, but no longer. Carefully remove the oysters with a slotted spoon and place on top of the spinach in the shells. Place the hand-held blender in the sauce and blitz to lighten, then spoon the sauce over the poached oysters to serve.

Marinated Olives

Serves 4 | VEGETARIAN

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp fennel seeds

225g (8oz) black or green olives, or a mixture

finely grated rind and juice of

1 small lemon

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 tsp dried crushed chillies (optional)

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

In my opinion, the best type of olives for this dish come from Italy and have been stored in olive oil. You’ll find them at farmers’ markets or in a good deli. The longer you leave them to marinate, the better the flavour will be.

Toast the cumin and fennel seeds in a small, dry frying pan for 1–2 minutes until they become aromatic. Tip into a bowl and add the olives, lemon rind and juice, garlic, chillies, if using, and olive oil.

Toss until each olive is well coated and either drain off the excess liquid immediately and tip into small bowls to serve, or leave to marinate and allow the flavours to develop for as long as possible. The olives can be prepared up to one week in advance and stored in a bowl covered with clingfilm in the fridge.

Spiced Glazed Almonds

Serves 4 | VEGETARIAN

1 tbsp olive oil

225g (8oz) roasted salted whole almonds

4 tbsp caster sugar

1 tsp sweet or smoked paprika

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

These crunchy spiced nuts make an excellent snack to go with a few drinks. I like to use almonds but cashew nuts or pecan halves also work well.

Heat the oil in a frying pan set over a medium heat and add the almonds, stirring to coat. Sprinkle over the sugar, paprika and pepper. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until the almonds are golden brown and the sugar has caramelised.

Spread out on a baking sheet to cool and harden, then break up any clusters as necessary before piling into small bowls to serve.

Poultry

Turkey Moussaka

Serves 6–8

175ml (6fl oz) olive oil, for cooking

1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

750g (1 ³₄lb) lean minced turkey

175ml (6fl oz) white wine ¹₄ tsp ground cinnamon

¹₄ tsp ground allspice

1 tbsp chopped fresh oregano

2 bay leaves

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves

2 x 400g cans of chopped tomatoes

4 medium aubergines plain flour, for dusting

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chunky Greek Salad, to serve (see page 111)

For the cheese sauce

75g (3oz) unsalted butter

75g (3oz) plain flour

900ml (1¹₂ pints) milk

75g (3oz) Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

100g (4oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

1 egg, plus 2 egg yolks

Moussaka is a Greek dish made up of layers of minced lamb and aubergine, covered with a cheese sauce. Here, I’ve used turkey instead, which is economical and quite low in fat, but you could always make it the traditional way if you prefer. There are a few stages to the recipe, so it is best prepared in advance and then cooked just before serving.

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large flameproof casserole dish. Add the onion and cook gently for 6–8 minutes, stirring at intervals. Stir in the garlic and cook for another 2–3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened but not browned.

Put a little olive oil in a frying pan set over a fairly high heat, then tip in half the minced turkey. Cook until lightly browned, breaking up any lumps with a wooden spoon, then empty onto a plate. Repeat until all of the turkey is cooked, then deglaze the pan by adding just a little white wine and scraping the base of the pan with a wooden spoon to loosen any sediment, allowing the liquid to simmer until it has reduced slightly.

Stir the cinnamon, allspice, oregano, bay leaves and thyme into the casserole dish with the onion mixture and cook for about a minute, stirring. Add the cooked turkey and the reduced wine, along with the remaining wine and the chopped tomatoes. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 45–50 minutes until the turkey has broken right down and the liquid has reduced.

Meanwhile, cut the aubergines into slices 1cm (¹₂ in) in thickness and layer them up in a colander, sprinkling with salt between each layer. Set aside on the draining board for 30 minutes to allow the salt to draw out any bitter juices.

To make the cheese sauce, melt the butter in a large non-stick saucepan set over a low heat and stir in the flour. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually whisk in the milk, then return to the heat and cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring continuously, until the sauce is smooth and thick. Remove from the heat again and stir in 50g (2oz) of Parmesan and 50g (2oz) of Gruyère until melted.

Add salt and pepper and allow to cool slightly, then whisk in the egg and egg yolks to combine.

Set a large frying pan over a high heat. Rinse the aubergines under cold running water and pat dry with kitchen paper. Dust the aubergine slices with flour. Add a couple of tablespoons of olive oil to the frying pan and fry the dusted aubergine slices in batches for 8–10 minutes, turning once, until cooked through and golden. Replenish the oil for each new batch. Drain the cooked slices on kitchen paper. You are now ready to construct the moussaka.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. Spoon a third of the turkey mixture (discarding the bay leaves) into the base of an ovenproof dish measuring about 30 x 20cm (12 x 8in). Cover with half of the aubergine slices. Repeat the layers, finishing with a layer of the turkey mixture, then pour over the cheese sauce. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan and Gruyère on top and bake for 50–60 minutes, until bubbling and golden brown. Allow the moussaka to settle for 5 minutes before cutting into squares and arranging on warmed plates with the chunky Greek salad.

Spicy Chicken and Mango Noodles

Serves 4

450g (1lb) skinless chicken fillets

100g (4oz) vermicelli rice noodles

1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced

small bunch of fresh coriander

handful of fresh mint leaves

1 ripe mango, peeled, stone discarded and cut into fine strips

4 tbsp roughly chopped toasted cashew nuts

For the marinade

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce

juice of ¹₂ lime

1 tsp mild curry powder

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

pinch caster sugar

2 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves

2 tbsp sunflower oil

For the dressing

1 tsp caster sugar

2 tbsp dark soy sauce

1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce juice of 1 lime

4 tbsp sunflower oil

This quick light salad is perfect for eating alfresco, whether you decide to cook the chicken under the grill or on a barbecue. Tiger prawns would make a nice alternative to the chicken.

Place all the ingredients for the marinade in a non-metallic bowl and mix well to combine. Cut the chicken fillets into 3cm (1 1/4in) strips and stir in to the marinade. Cover with clingfilm and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight to allow the flavours to penetrate the chicken.

To make the dressing, dissolve the sugar in the soy sauce in a small bowl, then whisk in the sweet chilli sauce, lime juice and sunflower oil.

Place the vermicelli noodles in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for about 5 minutes until softened or according to the packet instructions.

Put the red onion slices in a bowl of iced water for 2–3 minutes –this will make them crisp and will tone down the flavour a little.

Drain both the vermicelli and red onion well and place together in a large bowl. Tear the coriander and mint leaves away from their stalks and add to the bowl along with the mango strips and cashew nuts.

Preheat the grill to high. Shake any excess marinade from the chicken strips and place the meat on a foil-lined grill rack. Cook for 5 minutes, turning once or twice.

To serve, add the cooked chicken and the dressing to the bowl with the noodles and toss until well combined.

Blackened Chicken with Roasted Red Pepper and Avocado Salsa

Serves 4

1 tsp chilli powder

1 tsp sweet paprika

1 tsp garlic salt (optional)

1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus extra sprigs to garnish

4 tbsp olive oil

4 x 200g (7oz) large skinned chicken breast fillets, at room temperature

salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salsa

1 large red pepper

1 tbsp chilli oil (see page 219 or shop-bought)

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

1 medium-hot red chilli, seeded and finely chopped

juice of 1 lime

1 tbsp chopped fresh mixed herbs (such as coriander and parsley)

1 ripe avocado

This dish is a favourite of mine during barbecue season. If you make a double quantity of the spice mixture and keep it in an airtight container in the fridge for a week or two, you’ll be ready to marinate any meat that you are grilling. The salsa also tastes great with grilled or barbecued fish.

Mix together the chilli powder, paprika, garlic salt (if using), thyme and parsley with half the olive oil in a shallow non-metallic dish. Add 2 teaspoons of black pepper and half a teaspoon of salt to season. Add the chicken breasts and rub the mixture into the flesh. Leave for a couple of hours or, if time allows, cover with clingfilm and chill overnight to let the flavours penetrate the flesh.

To roast the pepper for the salsa, preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), gas mark 7 and roast the pepper in a small tin for 20–25 minutes until the skin is black. Alternatively, spear the stalk end of the pepper on a fork and hold over the flame of a gas hob, turning regularly until the skin has blistered and blackened, or scorch the pepper with a chef’s blowtorch. Leave to cool and then break in half and remove the stalk, skin and seeds; discard. Cut the flesh into small dice and place in a bowl.

Preheat the grill to high. Arrange the chicken fillets on the grill rack and cook for about 8 minutes on each side, basting with the remaining oil until the chicken is lightly charred and just tender (you could also cook these on a barbecue or griddle pan).

To finish the salsa, put the chilli oil, garlic and red chilli into a small frying pan and, as soon as it starts to sizzle, pour it onto the roasted red pepper mixture, stirring to combine thoroughly. Add the lime juice and herbs and season with salt and pepper. Cut the avocado in half and peel off the skin, then dice the flesh, discarding the stone. Fold into the salsa and set aside.

Transfer the rested blackened chicken to a chopping board and slice on the diagonal. Arrange on plates with the roasted red pepper and avocado salsa. Garnish with the parsley sprigs to serve.

Chicken and Broad Bean Paella with Clams

Serves 6-8

1.2 litres (2 pints) chicken stock (see page 215)

¹₂ tsp saffron strands, soaked in a little warm water

about 120ml (4fl oz) olive oil

175g (6oz) raw chorizo, peeled and thinly sliced

100g (4oz) pancetta, diced

8 skinless, boneless chicken thighs, well trimmed and each cut in half

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 large Spanish onion, peeled and finely diced

1 red pepper, seeded and diced

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves

¹₂ tsp dried chilli flakes

425g (15oz) Spanish short-grain rice (such as Calasparra)

1 tsp sweet paprika

120ml (4fl oz) dry white wine

350g (12oz) fresh broad beans, podded and shelled

4 ripe vine tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

18 large clams (such as palourde), cleaned

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

This is one-pot dining at its best, and looks very special cooked in a paellera (the traditional paella dish). I brought one home from Spain a number of years ago and, despite lots of use, it is still in perfect condition.

Put the stock and saffron in a large saucepan set over a high heat and bring to the boil. Then turn the heat down to keep the stock warm but not boiling. Heat half the olive oil in a paella dish or large, heavy-based sauté or frying pan. Add the chorizo and pancetta and fry for a few minutes until crisp and lightly golden, then transfer to a plate and set aside. Put the chicken pieces in the pan and fry for a few minutes on each side until golden; remove and set aside with the chorizo and pancetta.

Add half the remaining olive oil to the pan. Add the garlic, onion and pepper and cook for a few more minutes, stirring at intervals.

When the vegetables have softened but not browned, add the thyme, chilli flakes and rice to the pan and stir for about 2 minutes or until all the grains of rice are nicely coated and glossy. Stir in the paprika, then pour in the wine and allow it to bubble a little. Pour in the hot, saffron-infused chicken stock, then stir in the cooked chorizo, pancetta and chicken thighs and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Fold in the broad beans and tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Place the clams on top of the paella so that they will open facing upwards and continue to cook gently for another 10–15 minutes or until the rice is just tender. Discard any clams that have not opened. Remove from the hob and leave the paella to rest in a warm place for 10 minutes. Garnish with the parsley and serve straight from the paella dish.

Tea-smoked Barbary Duck

Serves 4

50g (2oz) loose jasmine tea leaves

50g (2oz) light muscovado sugar

50g (2oz) long-grain rice

4 x 225g (8oz) Barbary duck breasts, well trimmed, skin left on

4 tsp sesame oil

1 tbsp hoisin sauce

1 tsp sweet chilli sauce

1 tsp dark soy sauce

jasmine rice and Stir-fried Baby Pak Choi with Mushrooms (see page 128), to serve

spring onion, shreds of red chilli, to garnish the rice

Barbary duck is far less fatty than traditional English duck. For a really special occasion you could even experiment with game, such as guinea fowl or pheasant, for this recipe.

Scrunch the sides of a foil circle to make a container about 12.5cm (5in) in diameter. Mix the tea, sugar and rice, pour into the foil dish and place in the base of a wok with a tight-fitting lid. Using a sharp knife, lightly criss-cross the skin of each duck breast. Brush each one all over with a teaspoon of sesame oil and arrange on a rack that will fit in the wok. Don’t yet put the rack into the wok.

Place the wok (containing the tea) over a very high heat. When the tea starts smoking, add the rack of duck breasts. Cover with the lid and leave on the heat for 10 minutes. Don’t be tempted to look under the lid as the smoke will disperse and the duck won’t cook. If lots of smoke is escaping into your kitchen, or your smoke alarm goes off, turn the heat down a little.

After 10 minutes, remove the wok from the heat but still don’t lift the lid. Let it cool for 5 minutes and the smoke to dissipate slowly, then transfer the duck to a plate and allow to cool completely. It is now smoked and just needs a final cooking.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6. Heat a large ovenproof frying pan over a moderate heat. When the pan is hot, add the duck breasts, skin-side down, and cook for 1–2 minutes until the skin is crisp and golden brown.

Meanwhile, mix together the hoisin, sweet chilli and soy sauce in a small bowl. Remove the pan from the heat and drain off the excess fat. Brush the fillet side of each breast with a teaspoon of the hoisin mixture, then turn the fillets over so that they are skin-side up. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for another 5–6 minutes if you like your duck pink, a bit longer for well done.

Leave the duck to rest for a couple of minutes, then carve each breast on the diagonal and fan out on hot plates. Serve with a mound of pak choi and a bowl of jasmine rice. Scatter the rice with the spring onions and chilli shreds.

Creamy Chicken Korma

Serves 4

2 tbsp sunflower oil

2 onions, peeled and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

2 tsp finely grated root ginger

1 green chilli, seeded and finely chopped

1 tsp garam masala

1 tsp ground turmeric

¹₄ tsp chilli powder

400g can of chopped tomatoes

1 tsp tomato purée

4 boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 2.5cm (1 in) cubes

150ml (5fl oz) double cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander, to garnish

basmati rice, warmed naan bread and mango chutney, to serve

This authentic recipe from my good friend Naseem Booth is one that I return to again and again. Curries always taste better when they have been kept for a day or two. This one will keep quite happily in the fridge for two days, and also freezes very well.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onions and garlic until for about 10 minutes until golden brown. Stir in the ginger and green chilli and cook for 1 minute, stirring.

Add the garam masala to the pan with the turmeric, chilli powder and a pinch of salt and cook for another minute, stirring. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée and 150ml (5fl oz) of water, stir well to combine, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20–25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is so well reduced that it is almost sticking to the bottom of the pan and the oil has separated out on the surface.

Add the chicken to the sauce with a few tablespoons of water. Slowly bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently with the lid on for about 20 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through and completely tender. Stir in the cream and simmer gently for a few more minutes until well combined. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve, spoon basmati rice and chicken korma onto warmed plates and scatter over the coriander. Place the naan breads in a separate serving dish to pass around with the mango chutney.

Butterflied Poussin

Serves 4–6

1 tbsp mixed peppercorns

4 poussins, butterflied (ask your butcher or see method for instructions)

4 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

finely grated rind of 2 large oranges

2 handfuls of fresh basil leaves

4 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 red chilli, seeded and finely chopped

2 tbsp clear honey

2 tbsp fino (dry) sherry

150ml (5fl oz) olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

lightly dressed green salad, to serve

8 metal skewers (23cm (9in) in length)

Poussins are the smallest type of chicken you can buy. I like them because they are tender and quick to cook but you could use any type of chicken pieces instead. As the poussin cooks it will blacken in places, resulting in a well-flavoured, crisp skin and moist, tender meat underneath.

Place the peppercorns in a small frying pan and toast for a few minutes, tossing occasionally, until aromatic. Grind to a powder in a mini blender or with a pestle and mortar, then set aside.

If your butcher hasn’t already butterflied the poussins, use poultry shears or kitchen scissors to cut each poussin down both sides of the backbone, then remove and discard the bone. Snip the wishbone in half, open out the poussin, then snip out the ribs. Turn skin-side up, and press down firmly on the breastbone with the heel of your hand to flatten out. Trim off any excess skin, wash under cold running water and pat dry with kitchen paper.

Place the garlic, ground peppercorns, orange rind, basil, spring onions and chilli in a mini blender or pestle and mortar and work into a smooth paste. Transfer to a large plastic container with a lid and add the honey, sherry and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and stir until well combined. Add the butterflied poussins and turn to coat them thoroughly in the mixture, then secure the lid and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight, shaking the container occasionally.

When ready to cook, either preheat the grill to medium–hot or the oven to 220°C (425°F), gas mark 7. Thread two metal skewers in a criss-cross fashion through each butterflied poussin, wiping off any excess marinade. This keeps them flat during cooking – it also makes them easier to handle when hot.

Arrange the poussins on a grill pan or a large roasting tin with a wire rack, and cook for 10–15 minutes on each side until cooked through and golden brown, basting occasionally with the leftover marinade. Leave to rest for a few minutes, then remove the skewers and arrange on warmed plates with some green salad.

Vietnamese-style Grilled Five-spice Chicken Thigh Salad

Serves 4

6 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

1 large shallot, peeled and roughly chopped

1 tbsp minced or chopped fresh root ginger

4 tsp caster sugar

4 tbsp dark soy sauce

4 tbsp Thai fish sauce (nam pla) or light soy sauce

¹₂tsp Chinese five-spice powder

8 chicken thighs, with skin

2 tbsp sunflower oil

100g (4oz) green beans, trimmed and sliced into 2.5cm (1 in) lengths

275g (10oz) mixed salad leaves

1 small red pepper, halved, seeded and diced

225g (8oz) cherry plum tomatoes, halved or quartered

2–3 tbsp vinaigrette (see page 85)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

very fine shreds of carrot and long thin fresh chives, to garnish

Chicken thighs are not only cheaper than breasts but they can result in a much tastier dish. The secret of this recipe is in the slow cooking, which would leave a breast fillet tasteless and dry. When using thighs, you end up with crispy skin and succulent, well-flavoured flesh.

To make the marinade, place the garlic in a mini blender or a pestle and mortar, along with the shallot, ginger and sugar, then work to a paste. Transfer to a small bowl and whisk in the soy sauce, Thai fish sauce, five-spice powder and several grinds of black pepper.

Arrange the chicken thighs in a shallow, non-metallic dish and pour over the marinade, turning the meat until well coated. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours for best results, turning the chicken thighs several times in the marinade. Bring back to room temperature before cooking and wipe off any excess marinade with kitchen paper.

Heat a frying pan over a medium heat. Put the oil in the pan, then add the chicken thighs skin-side down. Cook for 20–30 minutes until the skin is golden and crispy. Don’t be tempted to touch them while they are cooking or to shake the pan – just leave them alone and they will cook beautifully.

When the chicken thighs are browned and the flesh is almost (but not quite) cooked through, turn them over and fry for another 5–6 minutes until completely cooked through and tender. Remove from the heat and leave to rest in a warm place for 5 minutes.

Plunge the green beans into a pan of boiling salted water for 1 minute until just tender, then drain and refresh under cold running water. Place the salad leaves in a large bowl with the blanched beans, red pepper and tomatoes. Add salt and pepper to taste and lightly dress the salad with vinaigrette. Toss well and divide between plates, then carve the chicken thighs into pieces and place on top. Garnish with the carrot shreds and chives.

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