RACHEL ALLEN

Home Cooking

Contents

Cover

Title Page

Introduction

Breakfast

Lunch

Sunday lunch

Suppers

Dessert

Snacks, treats and sweet

Boby purées

Basics

Index

Acknowledgements

Copyright

About the Publisher

Introduction

Home cooking is not about recreating fancy restaurant meals — although that is obviously great fun too — it’s more a way of life. It’s about food that anyone can achieve for friends and family, and taking great pleasure in the preparation as much as in the sharing, and of course the eating! The value of cooking at home goes beyond merely having control over your ingredients (though this is profoundly important for health, wellbeing, and your wallet …), it’s also about gathering your loved ones together to share and enjoy the most fundamental part of life; it’s about teaching your children how to appreciate a home-cooked meal and showing them how much fun cooking can be; it’s about slowing down the busy pace of your life when you can, but also knowing that when there isn’t much time you can still put a loving meal on the table, made by you.

Home cooking is also about the joy of learning old skills and kitchen crafts such as making home-made sweets. It’s about feeling proud as a parent when making by hand your child’s very first foods. It’s about the wonderful kitchen smells and sounds and flavours that you just can’t get any other way.

In this book, you’ll not only find recipes for many occasions from breakfasts to dinners, you’ll also find trusted kitchen tips, such as home freezing, which not only saves time, but money too. You’ll also find hints on menu planning and how to encourage healthy eating habits.

I hope you and your loved ones enjoy every meal together, that you eat well, that you take a moment to appreciate one another’s company around the table, and above all, have fun cooking at home!

Rachel X

p.s. The oven temperatures in this book are for a conventional oven, but if I am using a fan oven, then I usually reduce the temperature by 10 per cent.

Breakfast
Homemade yoghurt
MAKES ABOUT 425ML (15FL OZ) · VEGETARIAN

Making your own yoghurt is very satisfying as well as being a good way to encourage children to eat it, as they can add their own flavours. It is crucial to use sugar-free yoghurt for the recipe to work. It is also important that the milk and yoghurt mixture stays in a warm, draught-free place like an airing cupboard or beside an Aga or radiator. Pouring into a flask will also help if you have one. Remember to keep 1 teaspoon of the yoghurt back to make the next batch!

1 litre (1¾ pints) whole milk

25g (1oz) skimmed milk powder

1 tsp natural probiotic yoghurt

1 Pour the milk into a large, heavy-based or cast-iron saucepan on a gentle heat. As the milk is beginning to warm up, add the milk powder, stirring to dissolve. Heat the milk until it reads 90°C (194°F) on a cooking thermometer (if judging by eye, the milk will be sweet smelling and just coming to the boil — steaming heavily and frothing around the edges).

2 Remove from the heat and leave to stand for about 15 minutes to cool until it reads 40°C (104°F) on the thermometer (or the milk has stopped steaming and feels just tepid when you dip your finger in and leave it there for a few seconds).

3 Stir in the yoghurt and cover with a double layer of foil. Wrap with a tea towel and leave in a warm place (or in a flask) until the mixture thickens, which will take 4–5 hours. Remove the towel, transfer to a bowl, cover and place in the fridge to cool overnight.

Variations

Apple and sweet geranium yoghurt: Cook 600g (1⅓lb) (about 2) peeled, cored and roughly chopped cooking apples with 50g (2oz) caster or granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon of water and 2 sweet geranium (or mint) leaves for 6–8 minutes until soft. Leave to cool completely and remove the leaves before stirring into the set yoghurt.

Raspberry yoghurt: Make a raspberry coulis (see page 337) and stir into or drizzle over the yoghurt to serve.

Orange curd yoghurt: Ripple a spoonful of orange curd (see page 336) through the yoghurt.

Natural yoghurt with fresh fruits: Serve the yoghurt with one of the fresh fruit salads on page 14.

Natural yoghurt with poached fruits: Serve the yoghurt with some poached fruits (dried or fresh, see pages 44 and 212) or chop them up and stir them into the yoghurt.

Porridge
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

My dad always used to make us eat porridge before going to school, and now I appreciate why. Oats are a great slow-release carbohydrate and so porridge makes a good, hearty breakfast. It can be slightly sinful, depending on what you serve it with, but if you choose healthy toppings it’s a lot more healthy and nutritious than many breakfast cereals.

100g (3½oz) porridge oats

Pinch of salt (optional)

225ml (8fl oz) milk (optional)

1 Place the oats in a medium saucepan, add a pinch of salt (if you wish) and pour over 500ml (18fl oz) water, or a mixture of water and milk.

2 Cook on a low—medium heat, stirring regularly, for 7–10 minutes or until the oats are tender and the porridge creamy and thick. (Feel free to add more liquid if you prefer a thinner consistency.)

3 Serve in warm bowls and make more interesting with one of the tasty additions suggested below.

Additions

* Sweeten with soft brown sugar, honey or maple or golden syrup.

* Add a dash of cream or milk, or drizzle over a little natural yoghurt.

* Try adding dried fruit such as raisins, sultanas, apricots or prunes before cooking the oats.

* Top your porridge with your favourite nuts or seeds for a crunchier texture.

* Try flavouring your porridge with added ground cinnamon, cardamom or nutmeg, either during or after cooking.

* For a serious weekend brunch for grown-ups, you could even go so far as to add a splash of whiskey and cream over your porridge … now that is pure indulgence.

Rachel’s tip

If using pinhead oatmeal, it needs to be soaked overnight in water and then cooked as above, but it may take about 20 minutes.

Crunchy granola
MAKES ABOUT 1.5KG (3LB 5OZ) · VEGETARIAN

A bowl of granola, bursting with different textures and flavours, is a fantastic way to start the day. Serve it either with milk or natural yoghurt and feel free to mix and match the ingredients; you could use rye or barley flakes instead of some of the oat flakes, for instance, or add chocolate chips or dried cranberries. Whatever takes your fancy.

125g (4½oz) butter

150ml (5fl oz) honey

1 tsp vanilla extract

500g (1lb 2oz) rolled oats

50g (2oz) pecan nuts, roughly chopped

150g (5oz) hazelnuts, roughly chopped

75g (3oz) pumpkin seeds

75g (3oz) sunflower seeds

50g (2oz) golden linseeds

100g (3½oz) desiccated coconut

300g (11oz) mixed dried fruit, such as dates, figs, apricots, raisins or sultanas, the larger fruit chopped

1 Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas mark 3.

2 Place the butter, honey and vanilla extract in a small saucepan on a low heat and gently melt together. Mix the oats, nuts, seeds and desiccated coconut together in a large bowl. Pour over the melted butter and honey mixture and stir really well to ensure all the dry ingredients are evenly coated.

3 Divide the mixture between two large baking trays and spread in an even layer. Bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes, tossing every 5 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on the trays, stirring every now and then. (If you transfer it into a deep bowl at this stage, while it is still warm, it will go soggy.)

4 Once completely cool, transfer to a large bowl and stir in your choice of dried fruits. Pour into an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to two months.

Fresh fruit salads

EACH RECIPE SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

There’s nothing like a fresh fruit salad to make you feel healthy and invigorated. Eat for breakfast or serve as a starter, simple snack or dessert, either on its own or with natural yoghurt (see page 10 for making your own). First make the fruit juice dressing, then mix with your choice of fruit salad.

Fruit juice dressing

1 tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp caster sugar or runny honey

2 tbsp finely chopped mint (optional)

Mix the orange juice and lemon juice together in a bowl and stir in the sugar or honey to dissolve. Pour this over your choice of fruit salad below (adding finely chopped mint, if you wish). Stir to combine and serve immediately.

Pink grapefruit and pomegranate

2 pink grapefruit, peeled and segmented Seeds from ½ pomegranate

Mix the pink grapefruit segments and pomegranate seeds together. Stir in the dressing (see above) and serve.

Grape, melon and grapefruit

110g (4oz) seedless red or green grapes (or a mixture), halved

250g (9oz) peeled and deseeded melon, diced

1 grapefruit, peeled and segmented

1 tbsp very finely chopped celery (optional)

Mix the red or green grapes with the melon, grapefruit and celery (if using). Stir in the dressing (see left) and serve.

Tropical fruit mix

1 large orange, peeled and segmented

200g (7oz) peeled and stoned mango, roughly chopped

125g (4½oz) peeled and cored pineapple, roughly chopped

110g (4oz) peeled and deseeded papaya, diced

Seeds and pulp from 1 large passion fruit

Mix the orange, mango, pineapple and diced papaya with the passion fruit. Stir in the dressing (see above left) and serve.

American buttermilk pancakes
MAKES ABOUT 12 PANCAKES · VEGETARIAN

My children and I love making these thick and spongy pancakes (see picture on page 18). The basic recipe is delicious, but the pancakes also taste great with other ingredients added to the batter to flavour them (see the variations opposite). Once cooked and cooled, the pancakes can be kept in the fridge and then warmed through for a few minutes in a hot oven. Spread with a little butter and jam or apple jelly or try one of the toppings suggested below.

150g (5oz) plain flour

2 tsp baking powder

¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda

50g (2oz) caster sugar

2 eggs

150ml (5fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip on page 24)

25g (1oz) butter, melted and cooled

Sunflower oil, for frying

Icing sugar, for dusting

1 Sift the flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl, then stir in the sugar. Whisk the eggs, buttermilk or soured milk and melted butter together in another bowl, then pour into the dry ingredients, whisking all the time until you have a smooth batter. The batter is now ready to use or may be stored in the fridge overnight.

2 When you are ready to cook the pancakes, fold your chosen flavouring (if using — see opposite) into the batter. Place a large frying pan on a medium heat and oil it very lightly (I usually pour the oil onto a piece of kitchen paper and rub it on). Working in batches, drop large spoonfuls (about 50ml/2fl oz) of the pancake batter into the pan, spacing them apart to allow for spreading while cooking.

3 Cook on one side for 1–2 minutes until bubbles appear on the upper surface, then flip over with a fish slice or palette knife and cook on the other side for a further 1–2 minutes until golden brown on both sides. Repeat with any remaining mixture, keeping any cooked pancakes warm in a low oven (cover with foil) as you go.

4 Serve dredged with icing sugar and your choice of toppings from below.

Toppings

* Crème fraîche or Greek or natural yoghurt

* Slices of mango or strawberry, or pomegranate seeds

* Honey or maple or golden syrup

* Chopped nuts, such as pecans, hazelnuts or almonds

* Pumpkin or sunflower seeds

* Top with banana slices and toffee sauce (see page 337)

Variations

Choose one of the following to fold into the batter once it’s made:

Banana pancakes: 1 large or 1½ small—medium bananas, mashed (giving 150g/5oz mashed weight)

Berry pancakes: 75g (3oz) fresh or frozen (and defrosted) berries of your choice

Chocolate chip pancakes: 75g (3oz) chocolate chips (dark or milk chocolate)

Dried fruit pancakes: 75g (3oz) dried fruit such as raisins, sultanas, apricots or cranberries (chopped if large)

Cinnamon pancakes: 1½ tsp ground cinnamon

Fresh apple muesli
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

This delicious wet muesli is so easy to assemble and more nutritious than shop-bought dried muesli. You could use other fruit instead of apples — whatever is to hand.

4 tbsp oat flakes

2 eating apples

1 tsp honey

1 tbsp single or regular cream (optional)

1 Measure 3 tablespoons of water into a bowl and sprinkle in the oats. Leave for a few minutes to soak.

2 In the meantime, coarsely grate the apples with the skin still on and avoiding the core. Stir into the softened oats, along with the honey. Taste, adding a little more honey to sweeten, if necessary. Spoon into bowls and serve immediately, drizzled with cream, if you wish.

Variations

Apple and cinnamon muesli: Stir a pinch of cinnamon into the water before adding the oats.

Raspberry and orange muesli: Substitute the apples with 50g (2oz) crushed raspberries and stir into the oats with the finely grated zest of 1 small orange.

Apple, blackberry and pecan nut muesli: In addition to the apple, stir 25g (1oz) blackberries into the oats with 2 teaspoons of finely chopped pecan nuts.

Waffles
MAKES 16–20 WAFFLES · VEGETARIAN
(WITH NON-VEGETARIAN VARIATIONS)

Waffles are a perfect weekend breakfast, but they can make an excellent snack at any time of day. They go well with so many different toppings, sweet or savoury. I’ve listed some of my favourites below.

400g (14oz) plain flour

2 tsp baking powder

2 tsp salt

100g (3½oz) caster sugar

4 eggs

200g (7oz) butter, melted and cooled

600ml (1 pint) milk

Icing sugar, for dusting (optional)

1 Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl. Add the salt and sugar and mix well together. Whisk the eggs in another bowl, then stir in the melted butter and milk. Pour the wet ingredients into the centre of the dry ingredients, whisking all the time until you have a smooth batter.

2 Heat the waffle machine. Using a ladle, pour some batter into the machine — don’t fill it too full. Close the lid and cook for 4–5 minutes or following the manufacturer’s instructions, or until the waffles are golden brown and cooked through. Remove the waffles, dredge with icing sugar (if using) and add your choice of topping to serve.

Toppings

The quantities are for 1 waffle.

Bacon and maple syrup: Serve each waffle with 1–2 pieces of back or streaky bacon, a drizzle of maple syrup and a dollop of soured cream.

Peanut butter and jam: Spread 1 tablespoon of peanut butter or homemade nut butter (see page 252) over the waffle and blob 1 tablespoon of raspberry or strawberry jam on top.

Kiwi fruit and raspberries: Scatter over 1 chopped kiwi fruit and a small handful of raspberries. Drizzle with a little runny honey and add a dollop of Greek or natural yoghurt.

Classic French omelette
SERVES 1–2 · VEGETARIAN (WITH NON - VEGETARIAN VARIATIONS)

The ultimate fast food, an omelette is perfect at any time of day, either on its own or with a crisp green salad. It is incredibly versatile, too. Try the variations listed here.

2 eggs

2 tsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tsp butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 Place a 23cm (9in) non-stick or cast-iron frying pan on a high heat until very hot. (The omelette should take only about 40–45 seconds to cook if the pan is hot enough.) Place the eggs in a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together until thoroughly mixed.

2 Add the butter and olive oil to the pan and as soon as the butter sizzles and starts to turn brown, pour in the egg mixture. It will start to cook immediately, so using a plastic fish slice or wooden spatula, quickly pull the edges of the omelette towards the centre, tilting the pan so that the uncooked egg runs to the sides. Continue until most of the egg is set and will not run any more — the omelette may need to cook for a further 5 seconds to slightly brown the bottom. The centre should still be soft and moist. If you are using a filling (see below), then add it in a line along the centre now (except for those added to the egg mixture at the start).

3 To fold the omelette, flip the edge closest to the handle into the centre, then tilt the pan so that it is almost perpendicular to the plate so that the opposite edge of the omelette folds in and the omelette flips over. As you do this, slide the omelette out of the pan and onto the plate, and serve immediately.

Variations

Alpine breakfast omelette: To the egg mixture add 25g (1oz) grated Emmental and Gruyère cheese, 25g (1oz) soft and creamy goat’s cheese and 1 teaspoon of finely chopped chives and beat all the ingredients together.

Courgette and herb omelette: Sauté 50g (2oz) finely diced courgette with 1 finely chopped clove of garlic and a small pinch of salt and pepper in 15g (½oz) of butter or 2 tablespoons of olive oil for about 5 minutes until soft and golden. Drain on kitchen paper and leave to cool. Stir into the egg mixture along with 2 tablespoons of finely chopped herbs (such as mint, marjoram or basil).

Bacon and mushroom omelette: Stir 1 teaspoon of finely chopped chives into the egg mixture before cooking. Place 2 rashers of grilled bacon and 1 fried or roasted flat mushroom in the middle of the omelette before folding over. (This is a great way of using up leftover ingredients from a fried breakfast.)

Smoked salmon and goat’s cheese omelette: Add 25g (1oz) finely diced smoked salmon and 25g (1oz) soft, mild goat’s cheese (or cream cheese for an even milder flavour) to the middle of the omelette before folding over.

French toast
SERVES 4 · VEGETARIAN

The French call this pain perdu (‘lost bread’). It is made with slightly stale, leftover bread that you would otherwise throw out, but if you have only fresh bread to hand, leave it out overnight to dry out.

25g (1oz) butter

2 eggs

2 tbsp single or regular cream (or milk)

Pinch of salt

4 slices of white or brown bread

Icing sugar, for dusting

Honey or golden or maple syrup, to serve

1 Place a large, non-stick or cast-iron frying pan on a medium heat and add the butter. While it is melting, whisk the eggs with the cream or milk and salt in a wide, shallow bowl. Soak the bread in the egg mixture for a few seconds on each side and place in the hot pan.

2 Cook for 1–2 minutes on each side until deep golden in colour, then place on warm plates, dredge generously with icing sugar and serve with honey or golden or maple syrup drizzled over.

Variations

Spicy French toast: Add ground spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg or mixed spice to the egg mix before soaking the bread.

Fruity French toast: Add 1 small mashed banana or 50g (2oz) mashed raspberries or strawberries to the egg mix.

Rhubarb muffins
MAKES 12 MUFFINS · VEGETARIAN

These are great for breakfast or as a snack at any time of the day. Use fresh rhubarb when it’s in season in spring or frozen rhubarb at other times. If it is already sliced, it needn’t be defrosted.

150g (5oz) soft light brown sugar

1 tbsp sunflower oil

1 egg

1 tsp vanilla extract

100ml (3½fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip on page 24)

100g (3½oz) rhubarb, finely diced

175g (6oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

Pinch of salt

12-hole muffin tin

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Line the muffin tin with paper cases.

2 Place 125g (4½oz) of the sugar, the sunflower oil, egg, vanilla extract and buttermilk or soured milk in a large bowl. Beat until well mixed, then stir in the rhubarb. Sift in the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt, and stir until all the ingredients are combined. Try to avoid over-mixing or the muffins will become tough.

3 Divide the mixture between the muffin cases, filling them three-quarters full with batter and then sprinkle the remaining sugar on top of the batter in each muffin case.

4 Bake on the centre shelf of the oven for 18–20 minutes or until golden brown and firm to the touch. Allow to stand in the tin for a few minutes before placing on a wire rack to cool.

Spicy prune and apple muffins
MAKES 12 MUFFINS · VEGETARIAN

These are really delicious and filling first thing in the morning. They are also great for a snack or as a lunchbox treat.

275g (10oz) plain wholemeal flour

50g (2oz) rolled oats

125g (4½oz) soft light brown sugar

1 tbsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

2 tsp ground mixed spice

175g (6oz) pitted prunes, roughly chopped

1 eating or cooking apple, peeled, cored and finely diced

250ml (9fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip below right)

50g (2oz) butter, melted and cooled

2 eggs

12-hole muffin tin

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Line the muffin tin with paper cases.

2 Mix the flour, oats and sugar together in a large bowl and sift in the baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and mixed spice. Stir in the prunes and apple.

3 Beat the buttermilk or soured milk, butter and eggs together and pour into the dry ingredients, stirring to combine and to give a smooth batter. Try to avoid over-mixing or the muffins will become tough.

4 Divide the batter between the muffin cases, filling them almost to the top. Bake on the centre shelf of the oven for about 20 minutes or until golden and firm to the touch. Allow to stand in the tin for a few minutes before placing on a wire rack to cool.

Rachel’s tip

To make your own soured milk, gently heat some standard milk (to the quantity required for the recipe) until warm, then remove from the heat, add the juice of ½ lemon and leave at room temperature overnight. If you are allergic to dairy products, this recipe works well with soya or rice milk soured in the same way.

Boiled eggs with soldiers
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

This is the simplest recipe in the world but definitely one of my favourite things to eat. I love boiled eggs either for breakfast or for a simple supper when there’s nothing else in the house — the perfect standby! Use the freshest eggs possible and ones cooked from room temperature rather than from the fridge, so they are less likely to crack.

2 eggs, at room temperature

4 slices of white or brown bread

25g (1oz) butter, softened

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Bring a small saucepan of water to a rolling boil. Carefully lower the eggs into the water with a slotted spoon (dropping the eggs may cause the shells to crack). Bring back up to the boil and begin timing from the point at which the water starts to boil. For soft-boiled eggs, cook for 4–5 minutes; 8 minutes for hard-boiled.

2 While the eggs are cooking, pop the bread in a toaster or under a preheated grill and toast until it is golden brown. Remove and spread with butter immediately so that it melts. Cut each piece into 4–5 fingers.

3 Carefully remove each egg with a slotted spoon and place it in an egg cup. When the eggs are cool enough to handle, either crack the tops with the back of a teaspoon (and peel the shell away) or slice them off with a knife. Season with salt and pepper.

4 Dip the buttered soldiers into the soft yolk (unless it’s hard-boiled, of course) and enjoy!

Variation

For a romantic, elegant, or Mother’s Day breakfast: serve with asparagus tips (blanched for 2–3 minutes in boiling water) for dipping rather than the soldiers. You can also use duck eggs.

Scrambled eggs
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

As with omelettes and boiled eggs (see pages 20 and 25), scrambled eggs make the perfect quick meal. And just as with omelettes, they can be served in a huge number of delicious combinations. Mexican scrambled eggs are perfect for getting rid of a hangover: the chopped fresh coriander and chilli are just what you need to wake you up! Use the best free-range eggs for their lovely rich, yellow yolks and great flavour.

Basic scrambled eggs
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

25–40g (1–1½oz) butter

2–4 slices of white or brown bread

1 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add 15g (½oz) of the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, then immediately pour in the eggs and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously (I find a wooden spatula best for this), until the butter has melted and they are softly scrambled. Remove from the heat immediately so that the eggs don’t become overcooked.

2 Meanwhile, pop the slices of bread into a toaster or under a preheated grill and toast until golden brown. Remove and spread with the remaining butter, then place on plates, spoon over the cooked eggs and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with smoked mackerel, chives and parsley
SERVES 2

1 smoked mackerel fillet (about 110g/4oz in weight)

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15g (½oz) butter

1 tsp finely chopped chives

1 tsp finely chopped parsley

1 Remove the skin from the mackerel fillet, scraping off any dark residue left behind, then flake the flesh into small pieces.

2 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe left.

3 Stir the flaked mackerel into the scrambled eggs, along with the chives and parsley. Check the seasoning and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with sautied mushrooms and chives
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

1 tbsp sunflower oil

25g (1oz) butter

75g (3oz) mushrooms, quartered

Squeeze of lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

1 Heat the sunflower oil with half the butter in a medium-sized frying pan on a gentle heat and sauté the mushrooms for 4–5 minutes or until softened and turning golden. Squeeze over the lemon juice and season well with salt and pepper before removing from the heat with a slotted spoon.

2 Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the remaining butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe opposite.

3 Stir in the chives and sautéed mushrooms and check the seasoning. Divide between plates and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with crispy bawn and grujire cheese
SERVES 2

1 tbsp olive oil

3 rashers of streaky bacon, cut into slices

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15g (½oz) butter

25g (1oz) Gruyère cheese, finely grated

1 tbsp finely chopped parsley

1 Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan and sauté the bacon for 2–3 minutes or until crisp and golden. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

2 Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe opposite.

3 Stir in the cooked bacon, Gruyère and parsley. Check the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if necessary, and serve immediately.

Mexican scrambled eggs: huevos revueltos
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

15g (½oz) butter

6 cherry tomatoes, quartered

1 tsp finely chopped red or green chilli

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp finely chopped red onion

1 tbsp roughly chopped coriander

1 Melt the butter in a small saucepan on a medium heat, add the tomatoes and chilli and cook for 2–3 minutes, covered with a lid, until they are soft.

2 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with a good pinch of salt and some pepper and beat together. Pour into the tomato and chilli mixture, reduce the heat and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously, until the eggs are softly scrambled.

3 Stir in the onion and coriander and check the seasoning. Divide between plates and serve the eggs either on their own or on top of warm tortillas or buttered toast.

Eggs Benedict
SERVES 2–4

The secret of poaching eggs is to use the freshest, highest-quality eggs you can find. These eggs are seriously dolled up, but you can of course serve them more simply on toast. Prepare the hollandaise sauce first and keep warm while you cook everything else.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 eggs

2 English muffins, sliced in half

25g (1oz) butter

4 slices (about 110g/4oz) of ham or grilled rashers of bacon

150ml (5fl oz) hollandaise sauce (see page 331)

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

1 Fill a saucepan with water, add a pinch of salt and bring to a gentle simmer. Crack the eggs one by one into a small cup and slide it into the water. The water should not boil, but remain bubbling gently. Cook the eggs for 2–3 minutes or until the whites are set and the yolks still runny. Lift out carefully with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper.

2 Meanwhile, lightly toast the muffins in a toaster or under a preheated grill and butter the cut side. Put the muffin halves on plates and arrange a folded ham slice or grilled bacon rasher on top of each. Place a poached egg on top and spoon over the hollandaise sauce. Scatter with the chopped chives, grind some black pepper over the top and serve immediately.

Variation

Vegetarian eggs Benedict: Try this take on eggs Florentine (eggs served with spinach) by melting 25g (1oz) butter in a frying pan and sautéing 200g (7oz) spinach leaves, seasoned with salt and pepper, for 2–3 minutes or until wilted. Drain on kitchen paper and arrange on the muffin halves in place of the ham. Top with the poached egg, hollandaise sauce and chives, to serve.

Spotted dog
MAKES 1 LOAF · VEGETARIAN

This is a rich white soda bread with dried fruit added to make it ‘spotted'. It is also called ‘railway cake’ in some parts of Ireland, dating from the time when people took the train everywhere, with a currant for each station. A real family favourite of ours, it’s divine served straight from the oven, cut into slices and smothered in butter and jam or toasted and topped with cheese.

450g (1lb) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 tsp salt

1 tbsp caster sugar

110g (4oz) sultanas, raisins or currants (or a mixture)

1 egg

400ml (14fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip on page 24)

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.

2 Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large bowl, stir in the sugar and dried fruit and make a well in the centre. Beat the egg and buttermilk or soured milk together and pour most of it in (leaving about 50ml/2fl oz in the measuring jug).

3 Using one hand with your fingers outstretched like a claw, bring the flour and liquid together moving your hand in circles around the bowl, adding a little more buttermilk if necessary. Don’t knead the mixture or it will become too heavy. The dough should be softish but not too wet and sticky.

4 Once it comes together, turn onto a floured work surface and bring together a little more. Pat the dough into a round, about 6cm (2½in) in height, and cut a deep cross in it, from one side of the loaf to the other. Place on a baking tray lightly dusted with flour.

5 Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 and bake for a further 30–35 minutes. I often turn the loaf upside down for the last 5 minutes of cooking to help crisp the bottom. When cooked the bread will be golden and sound hollow when tapped on the base. Allow to cool on a wire rack before cutting into thick slices to serve.

Variation

Spotted dog scones: Make the spotted dog dough as above but flatten into a round about 2.5cm (lin) deep. Cut into scones using a cookie cutter or knife and bake for 15–20 minutes at 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8.

Potato and onion frittata with grujire and thyme
SERVES 6 – 8 · VEGETARIAN

Frittata is a thick Italian omelette that can be made with a variety of different cheeses, vegetables and herbs. It’s a great way of using up leftover cooked potatoes, and is equally delicious served hot straight from the pan for breakfast or at room temperature for a picnic.

300g (11oz) (about 1 large or 2 small) waxy potatoes, peeled (and halved if large)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and sliced

8 eggs

50g (2oz) Gruyère cheese, finely grated

110ml (4fl oz) single or regular cream

1 tbsp thyme leaves

Bunch of spring onions, sliced

25cm (10in) diameter ovenproof frying pan with a lid

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water and add 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 20–25 minutes or until tender. Drain the potatoes well and return to the pan on a very low heat to dry out for a minute or so. Remove from the heat, tip out onto a plate to cool a little and roughly dice.

3 Meanwhile, pour half the olive oil into the ovenproof frying pan on a gentle heat. Add the onion, cover with a lid and cook gently for 6–8 minutes, stirring regularly, until soft and slightly golden. Remove from the pan, spread out on a large plate and set aside to cool a little.

4 Next, whisk the eggs in a large bowl, then add the remaining ingredients and the cooked onions and potatoes, season with salt and pepper and gently stir together.

5 Place the remaining olive oil in the ovenproof pan and pour in the egg mixture, stirring briefly to distribute the ingredients evenly. Cook on a gentle heat for a few minutes until the mixture begins to set on the bottom, then bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes or until the mixture is set in the centre.

6 Remove the pan from the oven and allow the frittata to cool for a couple of minutes before sliding it onto a large serving plate. Cut into wedges to serve.

Kedgeree
SERVES 6 – 8

This classic dish is perfect for entertaining, whether for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner. It’s so easy to increase the quantities to feed lots of people. I love the addition of wild rice in this recipe, but it’s fine to use just basmati rice (white or brown) if you prefer. There are quite a few different elements to cook in this recipe, but then it’s just a matter of assembling all the individual ingredients. Serve this simply on its own, or with some mango chutney and a green salad.

150g (5oz) wild rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

350g (12oz) white or brown basmati rice

500g (1lb 2oz) smoked haddock (about 2 medium fillets)

25g (1oz) butter

350ml (12fl oz) milk

2 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp coriander seeds

4 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced

½ tsp cayenne pepper

½ tsp garam masala

10 eggs, at room temperature

225g (8oz) fresh or frozen peas

2 tbsp chopped coriander or parsley

2 tbsp chopped chives

50ml (2fl oz) single or regular cream

1 Tip the wild rice and a pinch of salt into a saucepan of boiling water and cook on a medium heat for about 45 minutes until the rice is cooked but with a tiny bite still left. Add the basmati rice and a pinch of salt to another saucepan of boiling water and cook until tender. (White basmati rice will take 10–12 minutes to cook and brown basmati rice 25–30 minutes.) Drain well and return both to one pan to keep warm.

2 Meanwhile, place the smoked haddock in a wide saucepan and add the butter, milk and a pinch of black pepper. Bring slowly to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10–12 minutes or until the fish is cooked. When it is ready it will begin to fall apart in chunks. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

3 Place a very large frying pan on a high heat and toast the cumin and coriander seeds for a few seconds until just a shade darker, then remove the seeds and roughly crush them. (If you don’t have a pestle and mortar, simply tip them out onto a chopping board and crush them with a rolling pin or the base of a pan.)

4 Return the pan to a medium heat and add the olive oil. Tip in the onions and sauté for 4–5 minutes or until just turning golden. Add the crushed cumin and coriander seeds, along with the cayenne pepper and garam masala. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pan with a lid and continue to cook the onions for 12–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until completely soft.

5 While the onions are cooking, bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, gently lower the eggs into the water with a slotted spoon and boil for just 6 minutes until semi-hard boiled. Drain the eggs and run cold water over them to stop them cooking. Peel them once they are cool enough to handle and cut into quarters.

6 Tip the peas into a saucepan of boiling water and cook for 1–2 minutes or until tender, then drain. Meanwhile, the haddock should now be cool enough to handle, so remove from the milk (reserving the milk for later), peel away the skin, remove any bones and flake the fish into chunks of about 1cm (½in).

7 Now that everything is cooked and prepared, you are ready to assemble the dish. Remove the lid covering the onions and, leaving the pan on a low heat, add the drained wild and basmati rice, the peas and half of each of the coriander or parsley and chives, stirring to mix. Pour over the cream, along with 50ml (2fl oz) of the milk the fish was cooked in, and gently stir to loosen the whole mixture slightly. Add the flaked haddock pieces, season with salt and pepper, to taste, and stir gently together.

8 Transfer the kedgeree to a wide, shallow serving dish or plate and arrange the quartered eggs on top and around the sides, then sprinkle with the remaining chopped herbs and serve.

Weekend fry-up
SERVES 1

Not something for breakfast every morning, of course, but there are times when this is just what you need to keep you going for the rest of the day. A fry-up is great when friends are staying — simply multiply the ingredients given below by however many people you are feeding. Source the best local ingredients you can and follow up with a big walk. If you prefer your eggs boiled or poached, see pages 25 and 30.

Vegetable, sunflower or olive oil, for frying

2 sausages

2 rashers of thick, dry-cured, smoked or unsmoked, back or streaky bacon, rind removed

2–3 slices of black and/or white pudding

Butter, for frying and spreading on toast

50g (2oz) button mushrooms, sliced, or 1 large flat mushroom, any stalk removed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 ripe tomato, halved

Pinch of caster sugar (if roasting the tomato in the oven)

1–2 eggs

1 tbsp milk (for scrambled eggs)

2 slices of white or brown bread

1 Add 1 tablespoon of oil to a large frying pan on a medium heat and begin by frying the sausages. Cook gently for 10–15 minutes or until golden and cooked through. Add the bacon rashers to the same pan with the sausages and fry for 3–4 minutes on each side or until crisp and golden, dabbing off any milky liquid with kitchen paper. Add the black and/or white pudding slices to the pan and fry for 2–3 minutes on each side or until beginning to crisp and the white pudding (if using) turns golden. Remove the sausages, bacon and pudding slices from the pan and drain on kitchen paper. Place in an ovenproof dish and keep warm in a low oven if necessary.

2 Meanwhile, add a dash of oil and knob of butter to another frying pan on a medium heat, and sauté the mushrooms for 3–4 minutes or until softened and turning golden. Season with salt and pepper, then remove from the pan and keep warm (adding to the dish with the cooked sausages and bacon). If cooking a large flat mushroom, then add the oil and butter to the pan and fry the mushrooms for 8–10 minutes, turning halfway through, until softened and browned.

3 Season the cut side of the tomato halves and drizzle over

1 tablespoon of oil. Gently fry them, cut side down first, for 2–3 minutes, then turn over and fry for a further 2–3 minutes or until just softened.

4 Alternatively, cook the large flat mushroom and/or the tomatoes in the oven. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Drizzle 2 teaspoons of olive oil or add a knob of butter over the mushroom and season with salt and pepper before roasting for 12–15 minutes until tender. Put a knob of butter on the cut side of each tomato half, add the sugar and season with a little salt and pepper before roasting for 12–15 minutes or until softened. If using the oven, begin roasting the mushroom and tomatoes a few minutes before frying the sausages and bacon. Once cooked, reduce the oven temperature to low for keeping everything warm as it is cooked.

5 To fry an egg, melt a knob of butter in a small, clean frying pan on a low heat. Carefully crack the egg into the pan and allow to fry gently. For an over-easy egg, fry for 1–2 minutes until beginning to set, then flip over with a fish slice and fry for a further 1–2 minutes. If you prefer your egg sunny side up, then fry gently for 4–5 minutes until the yolk has filmed over. Remove from the pan and serve immediately with the other cooked ingredients.

6 For scrambled egg, follow the method for Basic Scrambled Eggs on page 28. Serve at once with the other cooked ingredients.

7 While the egg is cooking, put the slices of bread in a toaster or under a preheated grill and toast for a few minutes (and on both sides, if using the grill) until golden. Butter the toast and cut the slices in half.

8 To serve, arrange everything on a warm serving plate, with the hot buttered toast on the side and with some tomato ketchup (see page 329) or relish.

Variation

Fried bananas: We sometimes like to add a fried banana to a full breakfast. It goes particularly well with bacon. Allowing 1 small banana per person, peel and cut in half across and then halve lengthways to give four pieces. Melt a knob of butter in a small frying pan on a medium heat and fry the banana pieces for 2–3 minutes on each side until softened and turning golden.

Pan–fried kippers with dill butter
SERVES 2

Some people love them, others hate them, but kippers are a favourite of mine because of their smoky saltiness, which I really enjoy first thing in the morning. I particularly like them with dill butter because the herb complements fish perfectly.

4 kipper fillets

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp sunflower oil

Dill butter (see page 327), to serve

½ lemon, to serve

1 Prepare the kippers by removing the head and any fins and wiping the fish clean with kitchen paper. Season with a little pepper. Add the sunflower oil to a large frying pan on a medium—high heat and fry the kippers, flesh side down first, for 2–3 minutes, then turn the fish over and fry for a further 2–3 minutes. The skin should be crispy and the flesh hot and cooked through.

2 Place the kippers on plates, flesh side up, with a spoonful of dill butter on top, and serve with lemon and some thin slices of brown bread.

Rachel’s tip

These can easily be grilled rather than fried, if you prefer. Preheat the grill to medium—high, rub the sunflower oil over the kippers and grill for 2–3 minutes, flesh side up, then turn the fish over and grill for a further 2–3 minutes.

Smoothies and juices
EACH SMOOTHIE RECIPE SERVES 2 EACH JUICE MAKES ABOUT 250ML (9FL OZ) · VEGETARIAN

Smoothies and juices are quick and easy to make. They are so nutritious and often the easiest way of getting the family to eat lots of fruit. Make up your own variations using whatever fruit you have to hand. The juices can be stored in the fridge for a day but are at their best (both taste-wise and nutritionally) if drunk immediately. If you don’t have a juicing machine, then blitz the fruit in a blender and push it through a sieve to get rid of any seeds or stringy or rough pieces.Pear, apple and ginger smoothie

Pear, apple and ginger smoothie

Place 2 peeled, cored and roughly chopped pears and ½ teaspoon of finely grated root ginger in a blender, pour in 200ml (7fl oz) apple juice and 50ml (2fl oz) natural yoghurt and blitz until smooth. Pour into glasses and serve immediately.

Strawberry, banana and yoghurt smoothie

Place 225g (8oz) hulled strawberries and 2 peeled chopped bananas in a blender, pour in 100ml (3½fl oz) freshly squeezed orange juice and 150ml (5fl oz) natural yoghurt, add 1 tablespoon of honey (optional) and whiz until completely smooth. Pour into glasses to serve, and drink immediately.

Mixed berry smoothie

Place 225g (8oz) fresh or frozen (and defrosted) mixed berries and 1 peeled and chopped banana in a blender, pour in 300ml (½ pint) cranberry juice and add 1–2 tablespoons of honey (optional), then whiz until smooth. Pour into glasses and serve immediately.

Pineapple, coconut and lime smooothie

Place 4 rings (about 500g/1lb 2oz) of fresh, peeled and cored pineapple and 2 peeled and chopped bananas in a blender. Pour in 100ml (3½fl oz) orange juice, 200ml (7fl oz) coconut milk and the juice of 1 lime and blitz until smooth. Pour into glasses and serve immediately.

Raspberry nectar

Put 175g (6oz) fresh or frozen (and defrosted) raspberries, 1 large peeled and segmented orange, and 1 halved and stoned nectarine through a juicer, or whiz in a blender and then push through a sieve.

Four fruits juice

Put 125g (4½oz) (about a 2 cm/¾ in slice) of peeled pineapple through a juicer, followed by 1 small peeled and segmented orange, 75g (3oz) hulled strawberries and 50g (2oz) seedless red or green grapes, or blitz all the fruit in a blender and push through a sieve.

Blueberry blush

Pass 125g (4½oz) blueberries and 75g (3oz) stoned cherries through a juicer, followed by 2 quartered (peeled and cored if using a blender) eating apples, or whiz in a blender and push through a sieve.

Peach and pear juice

Pass 2 halved and stoned peaches and 1 large quartered (peeled and cored if using a blender) pear through a juicer, or blitz in a blender and push through a sieve.

Kiwi fruit and apple juice

Put 2 quartered (peeled and cored if using a blender) eating apples through a juicer, followed by 3 halved (peeled if using a blender) kiwi fruit, or whiz both fruit in a blender and push through a sieve.

Poached dried fruits
SERVES 8 · VEGETARIAN

These poached fruits are great on their own or served with yoghurt, or in porridge (see pages 10 and 11). They can be made in advance and they keep well in an airtight container in the fridge for up to two weeks.

200g (7oz) pitted prunes

175g (6oz) dried apricots

25g (1oz) raisins

1 vanilla pod, split

Strip of orange zest

1–2 tbsp honey

4 tbsp warm water

225ml (8fl oz) freshly squeezed orange juice

50g (2oz) dried coconut shavings (optional), to serve

1 Place the prunes and apricots in a bowl, pour over enough boiling water to cover and leave to soak overnight.

2 The next day, drain the dried fruits, reserving the liquid, and place them in a saucepan. Add the raisins, vanilla pod, orange zest and honey and pour over the warm water. Top with enough of the reserved soaking liquid to just cover and then bring to the boil before reducing the heat and simmering for about 35 minutes.

3 Remove from the heat and leave to cool completely. The fruits can be refrigerated at this point until needed. Just before serving, stir the orange juice into the mixture (or about 2 tablespoons per serving if not serving the whole amount) and scatter with the coconut shavings (if using).

Additions

* Slice 3–4 bananas. Put a few pieces into each bowl of poached fruits when serving.

* Serve with a dollop of Greek or natural yoghurt.

Variations

Almond topping: Substitute the coconut shavings with 50g (2oz) toasted flaked almonds (see tip on page 50).

Different dried fruits: Try substituting the prunes with dried figs or pitted dates, and the raisins with sultanas.

Lunch
Roast tomato soup
SERVES 4 – 6 · VEGETARIAN (IF MADE WITH VEGETABLE STOCK)

I adore this soup because it tastes of summer to me. It’s delicious served as it is, or drizzled with pesto. To make it more of a meal, try serving with the cheese and basil quesadillas on page 259.

900g (2lb) ripe tomatoes (about 8), halved

1 red onion, peeled and thickly sliced

6 large cloves of garlic, peeled

Leaves from 4 sprigs of thyme

1 tsp caster sugar

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

600ml (1 pint) chicken or vegetable stock (see page 326)

50ml (2fl oz) double or regular cream

Basil leaves, to serve

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6.

2 Arrange the tomato halves, cut side up, in a single layer on a baking tray and scatter over the onion, garlic, thyme and sugar. Drizzle over the olive oil and balsamic vinegar and season well with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 35–40 minutes or until softened.

3 Once cooked, tip the entire contents of the baking tray, including any juices, into a blender. Add the stock and blend until smooth, then pour into a large saucepan. Alternatively, place the cooked tomatoes in the saucepan, pour in the stock and purée using a hand-held blender. Bring the soup to the boil, add the cream, reduce the heat and simmer for a few minutes to heat through.

4 Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with basil leaves.

Mushroom soup with stuffed mushrooms
SERVES 6 · VEGETARIAN (IF MADE WITH VEGETABLE STOCK)

An ideal dish if you are entertaining friends for lunch and need something that little bit special, or as a starter for a dinner party.

For the soup

1 onion, peeled and quartered

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

25g (1oz) butter

350g (12oz) large flat mushrooms, quartered

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

600ml (1 pint) chicken or vegetable stock (see page 326)

150ml (5fl oz) double or regular cream

For the stuffed mushrooms

6 large flat mushrooms, stalks removed and retained

3 slices of white bread (stale is best), roughly torn

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

150g (5oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

75g (3oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

1 tbsp finely chopped marjoram, plus extra to serve

75g (3oz) butter, melted

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Truffle oil, for drizzling (optional)

Marjoram leaves, to serve

1 Blend the onion and garlic in a food processor for a few seconds until finely chopped, or finely chop by hand using a sharp knife. Melt the butter in a large saucepan on a medium heat and sauté the onion and garlic for 2–3 minutes to soften a little, but not brown.

2 Blend the mushrooms in the food processor until finely chopped, or finely chop by hand. Add the mushrooms to the saucepan and sweat for 1–2 minutes or until softened. Season with salt and pepper, pour over the stock and bring slowly to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 20–25 minutes.

3 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6.

4 To make the stuffed mushrooms, place the mushroom stalks in the food processor along with the torn bread and garlic. Blend to fine crumbs and tip the mixture into a bowl. Alternatively, finely chop by hand and transfer to a bowl. Add the cheeses and the marjoram and then drizzle with the melted butter. Season with salt and pepper and toss everything together to combine.

5 Arrange the mushrooms on a baking tray, flat side down, and pile the stuffing mixture on top of each one. Bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes or until the mushrooms are soft and the topping crisp and golden.

6 Once the soup has finished cooking, check the seasoning, then pour in the cream and simmer gently for a few minutes to warm through. Ladle the soup into wide soup bowls to a depth of no more than 2cm (¾in). Carefully place a stuffed mushroom in the centre of each bowl, drizzle over the truffle oil (if using) and decorate with the marjoram leaves.

Rachel’s tip

You can prepare the mushroom soup in advance (freezing it, if you wish) and then prepare the stuffed mushrooms on the day.

Gazpacho
SERVES 4 · VEGETARIAN (WITH NON-VEGETRIAN VARIATIONS)

Gazpacho is a classic chilled summer soup from Spain. It reminds me of the many happy holidays I’ve had in Mallorca.

800g (1¾lb) ripe tomatoes (about 3–4), quartered

1 red pepper, deseeded and roughly chopped

½ large cucumber, peeled and roughly chopped

8 spring onions, trimmed and roughly chopped

8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

2 tbsp sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

Squeeze of lemon juice

2 cloves of garlic, peeled

2 tsp caster sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Place all of the ingredients in a blender and blitz until smooth. Check the seasoning and add a little more sugar if necessary. Push the soup through a fine sieve over a large bowl, cover and place in the fridge to chill before serving.

2 Ladle into bowls and drizzle over a little olive oil. Serve with your choice of toppings from below, placing little bowls of them on the table for each person to add to their own soup.

Toppings

* Mix ½ red or yellow pepper, deseeded and finely chopped, with 4 teaspoons of finely chopped red onion and 4 tablespoons of golden croutons (2 thick slices of white or brown bread cut into 5mm/¼in cubes, brushed with olive oil and baked in the oven, preheated to 200°C/400°F/Gas mark 6, for 10 minutes).

* Mix 2 tablespoons of fresh white crab meat with ¼ avocado, finely chopped.

* Push 1 cold hard-boiled egg through a sieve and mix with 25g (1oz) finely chopped cooked ham.

* Vodka ice cubes — 1 teaspoon of vodka mixed with 1 teaspoon of water per ice cube and frozen overnight. Add to the soup, with or without the other toppings.

Brussels sprout soup with toasted almonds and chive cream
SERVES 4 – 6 · VEGETARIAN (IF MADE WITH VEGETABLE STOCK)

A perfect winter dish and particularly lovely at Christmas, this delicious and nourishing soup uses up leftover Brussels sprouts, or you can use raw sprouts instead — just give them an extra minute or two to cook in the soup. Like many children, mine aren’t too keen on Brussels sprouts on their own, but they lap them up in this soup!15g (½oz) butter

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 large potato (about 250g/9oz), peeled and chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 litre (1¾ pints) chicken or vegetable stock (see page 326)

450g (1lb) cooked or raw (and peeled) Brussels sprouts, halved

100ml (3½fl oz) double or regular cream

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

25g (1oz) flaked almonds, lightly toasted (see tip below right)

1 Melt the butter in a saucepan on a low heat, add the onion and potato and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cover with a lid and leave to cook very gently for about 8–10 minutes, stirring every now and then, until the potatoes are just soft but not browned.

2 Add the stock, bring to a rolling boil and cook for 1 minute before tipping in the sprouts. With the lid off this time, boil the cooked sprouts for 1–2 minutes only (enough time to warm through but not to overcook) or 3–4 minutes for raw sprouts.

3 Remove the saucepan from the heat and whiz the soup in a blender until smooth. Return the soup to the pan and stir in half the cream. Check the seasoning and simmer for a few minutes to warm through.

4 Finally, lightly whip the remaining cream to soft peaks and stir in the chives. Divide the soup between warm bowls, spoon a dollop of chive cream on top, scatter over the toasted almonds and serve immediately.

Rachel’s tip

To toast the almonds (or any other kind of nuts or seeds), toss them in a dry pan for 2–3 minutes on a medium—high heat. Remove from the heat as soon as they start to turn golden as they can quickly burn.

Assian noodle broth with chicken dumplings
SERVES 6

This is a fragrant and light soup, with noodles and chicken dumplings poached in the broth to make it more substantial. The sweet element in the broth makes it popular with children; if the chilli is too spicy for them (or you), then leave it out. Likewise, the nuts in the dumplings can be omitted.

500g (1lb 2oz) chicken dumpling mixture (see page 155)

1.8 litres (3 pints) chicken stock (see page 326)

100g (3½oz) medium egg noodles

200g (7oz) Savoy cabbage, finely shredded

1 red chilli, deseeded (optional) and finely chopped

Juice of 1 lime

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Large handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped

To serve

Lime wedges

Fish sauce (nam pla)

1 Divide the chicken dumpling mixture into 36 walnut-sized pieces and shape each one into a small ball.

2 Pour the chicken stock into a large saucepan and bring just to the boil. Reduce the heat so the stock is simmering gently and add the chicken dumplings. Cook for 4–5 minutes, then add the noodles, cabbage and chilli. Simmer for 3–4 minutes or until the noodles are tender and the chicken dumplings cooked through. Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.

3 Ladle into serving bowls (serving six dumplings per bowl), scatter with the mint and serve with the lime wedges and fish sauce for people to add themselves.

Molly malone’s cockle and mussel chowder
SERVES 4–6

A little more work is involved in making this soup, but it’s definitely well worth the effort. It makes a decent meal in its own right, especially with chunks of crusty bread, or you can serve it as a starter. Cockles and mussels are a classic combination but if you can only get one or the other, you can use them singly in this soup.2 tbsp sunflower oil 110g (4oz) smoked bacon, diced

25g (1oz) butter

110g (4oz) leek, trimmed and very finely diced

110g (4oz) carrot, peeled and very finely diced

275g (100z) potato (about 1 medium), peeled and finely diced

1kg (2lb 3oz) mixed cockles and mussels

300ml (½ pint) dry white wine

200ml (7fl oz) milk

200ml (7fl oz) single or regular cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tbsp roughly chopped parsley

1 Heat the sunflower oil in a saucepan on a medium—high heat and sauté the bacon for about 1 minute until crisp and golden. Melt the butter in the pan and add the leek, carrot and potato. Sauté gently on a low heat for 4–5 minutes or until soft but not browned.

2 Meanwhile, prepare the cockles and mussels. Scrub the shells clean and discard any that remain open when you tap them against a hard surface. Remove the beard — the little fibrous tuft — from each mussel. Bring the wine to the boil in a large saucepan and add the cockles and mussels. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and leave to cook for 3–4 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the shells have opened.

3 Remove from the heat, drain the shellfish in a colander, retaining the cooking juices, and discard any shells that remain closed. Once drained, return the shellfish to the empty pan to keep warm. Place a fine sieve over a measuring jug and strain the cooking liquid. If the juices caught in the jug measure less than 600ml (l pint), add water to make up to that quantity.

4 Add the pan juices and the milk to the bacon and vegetable mixture and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 6–8 minutes or until the potato is tender. Add the cream and simmer for a further 2–3 minutes or until reduced and thickened slightly. Season with salt and pepper.

5 Meanwhile, remove half of the cockles and mussels from their shells and add them with the remaining cockles and mussels still in their shells to the chowder. Stir in the parsley and serve at once with some crusty bread.

Nettle soup with smoked mackerel crostini
SERVES 6 · VEGETARIAN (IF MADE WITH VEGETABLE STOCK)

This is a tasty and highly nutritious soup that freezes very well. Feel free to substitute the nettles with other greens such as spinach, watercress or sorrel. For the best flavour, pick young new nettles that haven’t been sprayed. Don’t forget to wear gloves while picking and chopping! The sting goes out of the nettles as soon as they hit the hot stock. Like all green soups, this should not be left to simmer for a long time or it will lose its fresh green colour and flavour.

25g (1oz) butter or 2 tbsp olive oil

110g (4oz) peeled and chopped onions

150g (5oz) peeled and chopped potatoes

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

600ml (1 pint) chicken or vegetable stock (see page 326)

600ml (1 pint) milk

350g (12oz) nettles, destalked and chopped

For the crostini

2 demi baguettes or 1 thin baguette, cut in half

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 smoked mackerel fillets (about 150g/5oz in weight)

4 tbsp crème fraîche

Juice of 1 lemon

1 tbsp dill

1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce (optional)

1 Add the butter or olive oil to a large saucepan on a very low heat and when the butter has melted, tip in the onions and potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cover with a lid and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft but not browned.

2 Pour in the stock and milk into the pan, bring to the boil and add the nettles. Cook, uncovered, on a high heat for about 1 minute until the nettles are just cooked — don’t heat them for too long or they will lose their fresh green colour. Remove from the heat and purée until smooth in a blender or using a hand-held blender. Check the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if necessary.

3 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4, and prepare the crostini.

4 With the baguettes running lengthways away from you, trim the ends of each loaf and then cut the remaining bread into six long thin slices. Arrange the slices on a baking tray crust side down and brush the olive oil over evenly. Bake in the oven for 6–8 minutes or until crisp and golden. Remove and allow to cool.

5 Peel the skin from the mackerel and chop the flesh. Place in a blender with the crème fraîche, lemon juice, most of the dill, chilli sauce (if using) and a little pepper. Blend for a few seconds until smooth. Taste and season with a little salt, if necessary.

6 When ready to serve, divide the mackerel pâté between the cooled crostini, spread evenly and sprinkle with the remaining dill. Ladle the soup into warm bowls, arrange two pieces of mackerel crostini on the side and serve.

6 5 minutes or until the spring onions have softened. Check the seasoning, adjusting it if necessary, and ladle into warm bowls to serve.

Chicken and garlic soup
SERVES 6–8

This is a wonderfully easy, warming soup with deliciously sweet garlic. As well as normal garlic, you could use wild garlic leaves in this soup, which are in season in April and May. Simply substitute for the chives and spring onions.

50g (2oz) butter

1 onion, peeled and diced

10 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

1 skinless, boneless chicken breast (about 200g/7oz), finely diced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

600ml (1 pint) chicken stock (see page 326)

300ml (½ pint) milk

300ml (½ pint) double or regular cream

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

4 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 Melt the butter in a large saucepan on a medium heat and fry the onion and garlic for 3–4 minutes or until soft but not browned. Add the chicken, season with salt and pepper and cook for a further 4–5 minutes.

2 Pour in the stock, the milk and cream and bring to the boil. Stir in the chives and spring onions and simmer for about

Oxtail soup
SERVES 10 – 12

This old-fashioned, rustic and hearty soup has been popular since the 18th century and makes good use of a cheaper cut of beef. It is ideal for warming up friends and family on a cold day.

1 tbsp plain flour Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1.5kg (3lb 5oz) oxtail, cut into 3 cm (1¼in) pieces and trimmed of excess fat

2–3 tbsp vegetable oil

1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

3 sticks of celery, trimmed and finely sliced

1 bay leaf

1 sprig of thyme

6 peppercorns

2 cloves

1 tbsp tomato purée

1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

2 litres (3½ pints) beef stock (see page 326)

1 Sift the flour onto a large plate, season with salt and pepper and toss the oxtail pieces in the flour to coat evenly. Place a large saucepan or casserole dish on a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of the oil and fry the oxtail pieces in batches, adding more oil if necessary, for 4–5 minutes in total, or until they are well browned all over. Remove from the pan and set aside.

2 Add the onion, carrots and celery, cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook on a gentle heat for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft but not browned.

3 Return the oxtail to the pan and add the bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns, cloves, tomato purée and Worcestershire sauce. Season with salt and pepper, pour in the stock and bring slowly to the boil, skimming off any frothy impurities that rise to the surface. Reduce the heat to very low, cover with the lid and gently simmer for about 3 hours or until the meat is falling off the bone. Continue to occasionally skim off any impurities as well as any melted fat.

4 Remove from the heat and strain through a colander over a large bowl to catch the liquid. Tip the meat and vegetables into a large, shallow bowl and leave to cool a little. Add a few ice cubes to the liquid and wait for the fat to solidify and rise to the top, before removing and discarding it. Once the meat and vegetables are cool enough to handle, discard the bay leaf and thyme stalks (the cloves will be blended into the soup later) and remove the meat from the oxtail bones.

5 Pour the liquid into a blender with the reserved vegetables and two-thirds of the meat (you may have to do this in batches) and blitz to a smooth soup, then return to the pan. Add the remaining chunks of meat and bring slowly to the boil. Check the seasoning and serve immediately.

Alphabet soup
SERVES 6

Alphabet pasta is available in larger supermarkets, but use what other little shapes you can get hold of, such as small rings, tiny shells, little bows, wheels, stars or moons — they are fun additions to soup, amusing adults just as much as children. You can use raw chorizo or chicken instead of the bacon, if you prefer.

1 tbsp olive oil

150g (5oz) streaky bacon, thinly sliced

1 onion, peeled and diced

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

1 × 400g tin of chopped tomatoes

1 litre (1¾ pints) chicken or vegetable stock (see page 326)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½–1 tsp caster sugar

100g (3½oz) alphabet pasta or other small pasta shapes

2 tbsp finely shredded basil (optional)

1 Add the olive oil to a large saucepan on a high heat and fry the bacon for 3–4 minutes or until crisp and golden. Tip in the onion and garlic, reduce the heat and gently cook for 8–10 minutes or until soft but not browned. Add the tomatoes and stock and season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.

2 Increase the heat a little and simmer for about 15 minutes or until slightly reduced. Add the pasta shapes and continue to simmer for a further 5 minutes or until the pasta is cooked.

3 Remove from the heat and stir in the basil (if using). Check the seasoning, adding more salt, pepper or sugar if necessary, and ladle into warm bowls.

Zac’s chicken and sweetcorn soup
SERVES 4

Ideal for a light lunch, this is a quick and easy meal in a bowl — something the whole family will enjoy. Use leftover chicken or even the leftover Christmas turkey, adding it to the soup later in the method, as described below.

25g (1oz) butter

200g (7oz) skinless, boneless chicken breast, cut into 2cm (¾in) cubes

1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

3–4 large cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

600ml (1 pint) chicken stock (see page 326)

125ml (4½fl oz) milk

125ml (4½fl oz) single or regular cream

1 × 340g tin of sweetcorn, drained

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp roughly chopped parsley

1 spring onion, trimmed and finely chopped

Squeeze of lemon juice

1 Melt the butter in a large saucepan on a medium heat and add the chicken, onion and garlic. Cook gently for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chicken and onion start turning light golden around the edges. If you are using pre-cooked chicken, just cook the onion and garlic and then add the meat.

2 Place the stock, milk, cream and sweetcorn in a blender, season with salt and pepper and whiz for a few seconds to a rough purée. Alternatively, place in a large bowl and blitz with a hand-held blender. Pour the purée over the cooked chicken and onion mixture and bring slowly to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 4–5 minutes.

3 Stir in the parsley and spring onion and squeeze in a little lemon juice to taste. Check the seasoning, adjusting if necessary, and serve the soup immediately.

Potato, leek and smoked bacon soup with parsly pesto
SERVES 6

The rich wintry flavours of this soup are made even more delicious with a drizzle of parsley pesto.

1 tbsp sunflower or olive oil

4 rashers of smoked streaky bacon, diced

25g (1oz) butter

l onion, peeled and roughly chopped

1 large leek, trimmed and diced

500g (1lb 2oz) potatoes (about 2 large), peeled and diced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1.2 litres (2 pints) chicken or vegetable stock (see page 326)

For the parsley pesto

15g (½oz) flat-leaf parsley

1 clove of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

1 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted (see tip on page 50)

1 tbsp finely grated Parmesan cheese

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Add the oil to a large saucepan on a high heat and sauté the bacon pieces quickly for about 1 minute or until crisp and golden. Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper.

2 Reduce the heat a little and add the butter to the oil in the pan. When it has melted, add the onion, leek and potatoes, season with salt and pepper and cook gently for 8–10 minutes without browning. Pour the stock over and simmer gently for 5 minutes or until the potatoes are completely cooked through.

3 Meanwhile, make the parsley pesto. Discard the stalks from the parsley and place in a bowl with the garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan and olive oil. Using a hand-held blender, purée to a fairly smooth paste, adding a little more oil if necessary so that it is a thick but drizzling consistency. Alternatively, crush the parsley, garlic and pine nuts using a pestle and mortar and stir in the Parmesan and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

4 Purée the soup until smooth in a blender or using a hand-held blender. Return to the pan and stir in all but 1 tablespoon of the reserved bacon pieces. Check the seasoning, adjusting if necessary, and heat for a minute more before serving.

5 Ladle the soup into warm bowls. Drizzle over the parsley pesto and scatter the remaining bacon pieces on top.

Rachel’s tip

Use the leek trimmings and parsley stalks for making a delicious stock (see stock recipes on page 326).

Salad with goats cheese toast and walnuts
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

This is the kind of simple salad that so many little brasseries in Paris have on their menus. In France the goat’s cheese served for this dish is usually the type with a rind, but you can also use a soft goat’s cheese for this salad. Make sure the walnuts are good and fresh; if stored for too long they can become bitter and rancid.

2 slices of white bread or 4–6 baguette slices

1 × 150g mini goat’s cheese log, cut into twelve 1cm (½in) slices

4 shelled walnuts, roughly chopped

2 handfuls (about 50g/2oz) of salad leaves

For the dressing

2 tbsp walnut oil or extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsp white wine vinegar

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp runny honey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Preheat the grill to high and lightly toast the bread on both sides. Arrange the goat’s cheese slices on top to cover evenly. Return to the grill for a few minutes until just molten.

2 Meanwhile, toast the walnuts in a dry pan for a few minutes until just turning brown, then remove. Make the dressing by whisking all the ingredients together and seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. (This will keep in the fridge for a week or two.) Dress the salad leaves with enough dressing to just lightly coat.

3 Place the dressed salad in the centre of two plates and arrange the goat’s cheese toast on top or to the side. Sprinkle over the toasted walnuts and serve.

Variation

Cranberry sauce: For a change, mix together equal quantities of cranberry sauce and boiling water (l teaspoon of each per person) and drizzle over the goat’s cheese toast before serving.

Fragrant sugar snap and beansprout noodle laksa
SERVES 6 – 8 · VEGETARIAN (IF MADE WITH SOY SAUCE)

Laksa is an Southeast Asian dish consisting of noodles either in a coconut-based curry soup (as here) or in a ‘sour’ fish-based soup. The vegetables add a bit of crunch, so it’s important that they remain as fresh-tasting as possible and are not overcooked. For a completely vegetarian dish, substitute the fish sauce with soy sauce.

150g (5oz) fine rice noodles

2 red chillies, deseeded and roughly chopped

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

2.5cm (lin) piece of root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

1 stick of lemongrass, outer leaves removed, roughly chopped

50g (2oz) coriander, leaves and stalks torn

Juice of 1–2 limes

2 tbsp toasted sesame oil

2 × 400ml tins of coconut milk

700ml (1¼ pints) vegetable stock (see page 326)

1–2 tbsp fish sauce (nam pla) or soy sauce

250g (9oz) sugar snap peas, halved lengthways

150g (5oz) beansprouts

8 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced at an angle

1 Place the noodles in a large bowl, pour over boiling water to cover, so that it comes up to about 2.5cm (1in) above the noodles, and leave to soak for 3–4 minutes or until soft. Drain well.

2 Meanwhile, place the chillies, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, coriander (reserving a few leaves for scattering over the dish) and juice of one of the limes in a food processor (or use a pestle and mortar) and blend to a paste. Heat the sesame oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat and fry the chilli paste for 3 minutes. Add the coconut milk, stock and 1 tablespoon of fish sauce or soy sauce. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

3 Add the sugar snap peas and beansprouts and simmer for a further 2–3 minutes or until almost cooked but still a bit crunchy. Check the taste and add more lime juice or fish/soy sauce if necessary.

4 Divide the noodles between warm bowls, ladle the hot soup over and scatter the sliced spring onions and reserved coriander leaves on top.

Variation

Chicken noodle laksa: Use chicken stock rather than vegetable stock and substitute the sugar snap peas and beansprouts with 550g (1lb 3oz) thinly sliced raw chicken breast, legs or thighs, cooking for 5 rather than 3 minutes.

Broccoli, olive and Parmesan salad
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

This is a really easy dish to prepare, highly nutritious and perfect for a quick lunch. It’s unusual to have broccoli in a salad of this style, but it combines beautifully with the olives and Parmesan. Serve the salad as a side dish with barbecued food or with toasted or grilled bread drizzled with olive oil, bruschetta style.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

225g (8oz) broccoli or purple sprouting broccoli, cut into florets

1–2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

½ lemon, for squeezing

8–10 black olives, stoned and chopped

2 tbsp grated Parmesan or Parmesan shavings

1 Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the broccoli and blanch for 3–4 minutes, so that it stays crunchy. Drain well.

2 While still warm, arrange on plates, drizzle over the olive oil and add a squeeze of lemon juice. Scatter over the olives and Parmesan, add a good twist of pepper and serve.

Summer garden salad
SERVES 4 · VEGETARIAN

A fabulously simple salad. The dressing is based on an old-fashioned recipe and is wonderful served with fresh ingredients plucked straight from the garden.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 eggs

4 tbsp olive oil

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

2 tsp soft light brown sugar

2 tbsp lime or lemon juice

1 small cucumber, finely sliced

8 small plum tomatoes, halved

Small bunch of spring onions, trimmed and sliced

15g (½oz) bunch of mint, leaves only

75g (3oz) watercress leaves, any thick stalks removed

1 Bring a saucepan of salted water to a rolling boil and carefully add the eggs, cooking them for 6–7 minutes or until semi-hard boiled. Drain and immediately cool under cold running water to stop them cooking. Peel off the shells and cut the eggs in half.

2 In the meantime, start making the dressing. Pour the olive oil into a small frying pan on a medium heat, add the garlic and fry for about 30 seconds until golden brown. Remove from the heat and leave the oil to cool completely.

3 Place the sugar and lime or lemon juice in a large bowl and stir until the sugar dissolves. Scoop out two halves of egg yolk from the whites and add to the mixture, mashing them down with the back of a spoon. Roughly chop the whites and reserve for serving. Add the cooled oil and garlic, season with salt and pepper and vigorously whisk everything together to form a smooth, thick dressing. Check the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if necessary.

4 Put the cucumber, tomatoes and spring onions into a large bowl and pour over the dressing. Add the mint and watercress and toss all the ingredients together.

5 Pile the salad onto plates, arrange two egg halves on top of each, scatter over the reserved chopped egg whites and serve.

Middle Eastern spiced lamb koftas with dips and spicy pittas
SERVES 4

Koftas are a type of meatball from the Middle East, but you can find variations (all with very similar names) in South Asia and the Balkans. They are lovely hot or cold, served as part of a meal or eaten as a snack or as canapés. Here I’ve served them meze-style with pitta bread and a variety of cooling dips. You could, of course, use minced pork or beef instead of lamb to make the koftas.

500g (1lb 2oz) minced lamb

½ onion, peeled and very finely chopped

2 cloves of garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground turmeric

Pinch of ground cinnamon ¼ tsp cayenne pepper

2 tbsp chopped coriander

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp chopped mint

1 lemon, cut into wedges

1 To make the koftas, mix the lamb in a large bowl with the onion, garlic, spices and coriander and season well with salt and pepper. (For checking the seasoning at this stage, see tip below.) Using wet hands, shape the rest of the mixture into 12 cigar shapes. These can be left in the fridge for up to 24 hours or frozen (so long as the mince hasn’t been frozen beforehand) until ready to cook.

2 In the meantime, make your choice of accompaniments (see the recipes overleaf). If making them all, then start with the baba ghanouj (see page 72) as this takes the longest to prepare.

3 When you are ready to cook the koftas, add the olive oil to a large frying pan on a medium heat. Fry the koftas for 10–15 minutes or until they are brown on both sides and cooked through. Alternatively, sear the koftas quickly in a really hot ovenproof pan and transfer to the oven, preheated to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7 for about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and leave to rest for a few minutes. When they are cool enough to handle, push a skewer through the length of each kofta to resemble an ice lolly on a stick.

4 Arrange three koftas on each plate. Scatter with the mint and serve with the lemon wedges and your choice of accompaniments.

Rachel’s tips

* To check the seasoning before making up the koftas, shape a little of the mixture into a small patty and fry in a pan with a little olive for a few minutes until cooked through. Taste and add more salt and pepper to the mixture if necessary.

* To make sure that you end up with the correct number of evenly sized koftas, break off pieces of the mixture and weigh them, deducting or adding more of the mixture so that each piece weighs about 50g (2oz).

(dips and pittas continued overleaf) Aubergine and tahini dip: baba ghanouj

Aubergine and tohini dip: baba ghanouj
MAKES ABOUT 550 G (1LB 3OZ) VEGETARIAN

There are many different versions of this popular Middle Eastern dip — sometimes it’s made with ground cumin or chopped mint, for instance. It is delicious served with the lamb koftas or just as a snack with some toasted pitta bread.

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 aubergines

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2–4 cloves of garlic, peeled and left whole

3 tbsp light tahini paste (sesame paste)

Juice of 1 lemon

125ml (4½fl oz) Greek-style yoghurt

2 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas mark 5.

2 Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over a baking tray. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways and place skin side down on the tray. Drizzle with another tablespoon of the olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Add the garlic to the tray and bake in the oven for 20–30 minutes or until the garlic and aubergines are soft.

3 Once cool enough to handle, use a spoon to scoop the flesh from the skin of the aubergine. Discard the skin and put the flesh into a food processor with the garlic, tahini, lemon juice and the remaining olive oil. Blend until smooth and transfer to a bowl. Alternatively, place all the ingredients in the bowl and purée using a hand-held blender. Allow to cool.

4 Once cool, fold in the yoghurt and almost all of the parsley. Check the seasoning, adjusting if necessary, then spoon into a serving bowl and scatter with the remaining parsley.

Coriander and mint salsa
MAKES ABOUT 200 ML (7FL OZ) VEGETARIAN

I love this sauce. It is rather like a pesto — great drizzled over barbecued lamb chops, for instance, or of course with the lamb koftas. It keeps really well in a jar in the fridge for up to a week. Just cover with a thin layer of olive oil to help preserve.

4 tbsp roughly chopped coriander, including soft stalks

2 tbsp roughly chopped mint

1 spring onion, trimmed and roughly chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped 150ml (5fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place all the ingredients in a food processor, season with salt and pepper and blend until fairly smooth, adding a little more oil if necessary. Alternatively, make by hand by finely chopping the herbs, spring onion and garlic and stirring into the oil. Adjust the seasoning if necessary, and place in a serving bowl.

Tzatziki
MAKES ABOUT 150ML (5FL OZ) VEGETARIAN

150ml (5fl oz) natural yoghurt

3 tbsp roughly chopped mint

½ cucumber, diced

1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

Juice and finely grated zest of ½ lemon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the yoghurt in a small bowl and mix in the mint, cucumber, garlic and lemon juice and zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Raita
MAKES ABOUT 400 ML (14 FL OZ)

This classic dip from India and South Asia is the perfect foil for spicy food, the yoghurt providing a welcome cooling touch.

1 × 250g tub of Greek-style yoghurt

½ cucumber, deseeded and diced

2 tbsp chopped mint

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Simply stir all the ingredients together and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Hummus
MAKES ABOUT 400G (14OZ) VEGETARIAN

Hummus is the Arabic word for chickpeas. Of course you can buy this in many shops now but it is quick and easy to make at home and so versatile. I often add chopped coriander or mint and sometimes a little chopped red chilli. It will keep in the fridge for 4–5 days.

1 × 400g (14oz) tin of chickpeas, drained, or 125g (4½oz) dried chickpeas, soaked and cooked (see page 329)

Juice of ½–1 lemon

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

2 heaped tbsp tahini paste (sesame paste)

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp natural yoghurt

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place all the ingredients in a food processor, season with salt and pepper and blend until really smooth, adding a little more oil if necessary. Check the seasoning, adding more lemon juice and salt and pepper if needed, and place in a serving bowl.

Spicy pitta wedges
MAKES ABOUT 20 WEDGES

As well as serving with the lamb koftas, these could be used for dipping into and scooping up any of the dips on their own. They’re best served straight away, slightly warm, but they will keep for a day or two in an airtight container, reheated when you need them.

2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted (see tip on page 50) 4 pitta breads, cut into wedges 2–3 tbsp olive oil

½ tsp finely chopped deseeded red chilli (optional)

¼ tsp sea salt

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.

2 Crush the toasted cumin seeds using a pestle and mortar or spice grinder. Alternatively, once the seeds are cool, put them into a plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin. Place the pitta wedges in a large bowl, pour over the olive oil, add the crushed cumin seeds, chilli (if using) and salt and toss together to coat evenly.

3 Spread out flat on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 4–5 minutes until pale golden. Keep an eye on them as they can burn easily!

Food on the go

There’s something special about a home-packed meal when you are out and about, on a train or car trip, out walking in the hills, enjoying a lazy afternoon at the beach or taking a break at work or school. My mother-in-law, Darina, is the snack queen when it comes to travelling. Once we all flew together to Mexico, and mid-flight she took out some lovely smoked salmon and brown bread sandwiches. I was so glad to be travelling with her! When we’re travelling with the children, I’m always especially thankful that I’ve got packed food with me. It’s not only practical and economical, but it can be a great distraction for restless young travellers. A bag of popcorn or some delicious homemade baked goods, such as the Squashed-fly Biscuits on page 277, are great for snacking.

Packed salads

Salads are great on-the-go foods and so many dishes are perfect served cold or at room temperature. They can easily be popped into a lidded plastic container for lunch on the hoof. Cold cooked pasta, rice, couscous and orzo are all wonderful as a base for salads. Try any of them with cut-up raw or roasted vegetables (peppers, tomato, broccoli, courgette), a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon and other ingredients, such as chorizo, feta cheese, spring onion or a bit of crushed garlic for flavour. I love leftover cooked pasta or new potatoes mixed with tuna, hard-boiled egg, olives, tomatoes and cucumber. Beans, such as haricot or cannellini, chickpeas and lentils also work well as a base for a salad. Do avoid any kind of lettuce-based salad, though, as the leaves will go soggy.

Creative options

Not everyone loves sandwiches, but luckily there are so many delicious alternatives. For instance, pack a few flour or corn tortillas, some refried beans, shredded cooked chicken and tomato salsa and you can assemble portable tostadas on the spot (see pages 137–9). Chutney and crackers with cheese or cold meats are also perfectly portable. Leftover roast meat, meatloaf (see page 191) or nut loaf and pâté, not to mention the Pork and Egg Picnic Pie on page 80, are all great served cold and somehow taste even better when you’re perched on a hillside or sitting on a train. These all make great finger foods, as do quesadillas (see page 259) or raw cut vegetables. I pack them with containers of sauces for dipping, such as pesto, mayonnaise or sweet chilli sauce. Indeed, why not try the Crudités and Dips on pages 250–2?

Antipasti from my local farmers’ market also make excellent picnic fare — I might buy olives, artichoke hearts, cheese, salami or prosciutto, a focaccia loaf and a few cherry tomatoes. Hot or cold soup such as gazpacho (see page 48), brought in a flask, is so satisfying when you’re out enjoying the view. See pages 46–62 for some wonderful soup-making ideas.

Packed lunches

Of course, all of the above make great packed lunches as well, whether for school or the office. For school lunches for the children, I always include cheese, raw vegetables like carrots, cauliflower, tomato and cucumber, a couple of homemade biscuits, some fresh fruit — an apple, tangerines or some grapes or strawberries, whatever is in season. Dried fruit such as apricots or figs are perfect for a child’s lunchbox, too.

Sweet treats

A sweet ‘fix’ can be very welcome when you’re out and about, especially if you’ve just been on a vigorous walk. Sweet things, whether biscuits or slices of cake, are ideal portable food and can easily be wrapped in foil or cling film and popped into a bag. Millionaire’s Shortbread or the Coconut and Chocolate Flapjacks on pages 276 and 284 are perfect, as is fruitcake or gingerbread (see page 289). You can even take a small container of granola to munch on (see page 12) or, if you are out walking all day and don’t want to overfill your backpack, just take some homemade fudge or toffees (see pages 308 and 300) with you.

Containers

When I pack everything up, I do try to create as little rubbish as possible. I like to keep an eye out for cute plastic boxes and any other type of small container with a lid, or vintage biscuit tins, which I line with greaseproof paper. The lid from the container can also serve as a plate. Darina puts sea salt and freshly ground pepper in old film canisters (if you can find them); they’re the perfect size. I do like to use baskets whenever I can, but for travelling, a canvas bag that you can fold up when you’ve finished eating is much more practical. I keep all these supplies in one place in the kitchen so I’m never digging around for my containers or flasks when I’m packing meals.

Spiced chicken salad with tzatziki
SERVES 6

This is a perfect summer lunch. The spicy chicken is beautifully complemented by the cooling tzatziki. Chicken still warm from the oven is best, but this dish works equally well if you cook the chicken in advance and serve it cold.

800g (1¾lb) skinless, boneless chicken breasts or thighs

1 tbsp sunflower oil

150ml (5fl oz) tzatziki (see page 72)

For the marinade

2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground (see tip on page 50)

2 tsp paprika

¼—½ tsp cayenne pepper

2 tsp ground turmeric

½ tsp caster sugar

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp salt

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

50ml (2fl oz) freshly squeezed lemon juice

For the salad

1 cos lettuce, halved across and leaves separated

3 tomatoes, each cut into 12 wedges

1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced in rings

1 Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade in a large bowl. Cut the chicken into long thin strips and toss in the marinade to evenly coat. Cover and leave in the fridge for at least 20 minutes, but preferably a couple of hours or even overnight.

2 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6.

3 Drizzle the sunflower oil on a large baking sheet and arrange the chicken pieces on it in a single layer. Bake in the oven for about 15 minutes until cooked through and golden.

4 Meanwhile, prepare the tzatziki as on page 72.

5 Toss the ingredients for the salad together in a bowl and pile onto a large serving platter or individual plates. Arrange the warm chicken pieces on top and drizzle with tzatziki. Serve immediately.

Aromatic crispy duck rolls
SERVES 4

These are fabulous for a party or for enjoying as a family meal. They are also a great snack if everything is prepared and stored in small containers in the fridge for people to help themselves whenever the mood strikes. Chinese pancakes are available in Asian food stores, some supermarkets or even from your local Chinese take-away.

2 duck breasts (about 250g/9oz each), skin on

2 tsp salt

1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder

1.2 litres (2 pints) chicken stock (see page 326)

3 star anise

1 tsp Szechuan peppercorns or ½ tsp black peppercorns

6 cloves

1 cinnamon stick

4 spring onions, trimmed and very roughly chopped

2.5 cm (lin) piece of root ginger, peeled and sliced

100ml (3½fl oz) Chinese rice wine or dry sherry

To serve

16 Chinese pancakes

Bunch of spring onions, trimmed and cut into fine strips

2 × 6cm (2½in) pieces cucumber, cut into fine strips

200ml (7fl oz) Hoisin sauce

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.

2 Remove the skin from the duck breasts and make three long scores in each piece of skin with a sharp knife. Place the skins in a small, non-stick roasting tin and rub the salt and five-spice powder evenly over. Roast in the oven for 20–25 minutes until crisp and golden.

3 Meanwhile, pour the stock into a saucepan and add all the remaining ingredients. Bring slowly to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 4–5 minutes.

4 Add the duck breasts to the stock, cover with a tight-fitting lid and gently poach the duck for 15–20 minutes or until cooked through. Remove the duck breasts from the pan and allow to cool a little before shredding with two forks, pulling the meat apart. Place on a plate or baking tray, cover with foil and keep warm in a low oven.

5 Drain the crisp duck skins on kitchen paper and finely slice. Scatter the slices back into the roasting tin (which should be full of rendered duck fat) and return to the oven for 5 minutes. Drain well on kitchen paper again and toss with the shredded duck breast.

6 Warm the Chinese pancakes in a steamer or microwave, then place the spring onions, cucumber and Hoisin sauce in separate serving bowls and serve alongside the warmed pancakes and shredded crispy duck. Allow people to assemble the rolls themselves. Spread a little Hoisin sauce on a Chinese pancake, scatter with some spring onions, cucumber and crispy duck and roll up to enclose before eating with your fingers. Finger bowls of warm water may come in handy, or lots of napkins!

Lamb, bean olive and feta salad with redcurrant dressing
serves 4

I created this salad one day with some leftover lamb. It has delicious Greek flavours and works so well with the redcurrant jelly in the dressing. More of a meal in its own right than a starter, this dish is ideal for a midsummer lunch or supper.

300g (11oz) leftover, cooked lamb

1 × 200g tin of beans (such as butter beans, black eye or cannellini beans), drained, or 75g (3oz) dried beans, soaked and cooked (see page 329)

110g (4oz) salad leaves (about 4 large handfuls)

Small handful of mint leaves

About 24 black olives, pitted and halved

200g (7oz) feta cheese, crumbled

For the redcurrant dressing

4 tsp redcurrant jelly (see page 328)

2 tsp red wine vinegar

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 First make the dressing. Place the redcurrant jelly in a small bowl, add the vinegar and olive oil, season with a little salt and pepper and whisk together until emulsified.

2 Carve or tear the lamb into thin slices and toss lightly with the beans, salad and mint leaves on one big serving platter or in individual bowls. Scatter the olives and crumbled bits of feta cheese on top. Drizzle over the dressing and serve.

Pork and egg picnic pie
SERVES 8 – 10

This is best served at room temperature and eaten with pickles and cheese on the side. It’s also delicious served with a little chutney. The pie lasts for a few days in the fridge.

For the hot water crust pastry

75g (3oz) butter, cubed

225g (8oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

Pinch of salt

1 egg, beaten (plus another for glazing)

For the minced pork mixture

625g (1lb 6oz) minced pork

3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or finely grated

1 tbsp chopped thyme and sage (a mixture)

1 egg, beaten

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the topping

10 rashers of back (not streaky) bacon, trimmed of fat

4 eggs

25cm (10in) diameter tart tin with 3cm (1¼in) sides

1 First, prepare the pastry. Place the butter and 100ml (3½fl oz) water in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring occasionally, until the butter melts, then allow the mixture to come to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the egg. Pour the hot liquid into the flour and quickly stir with a wooden spoon to mix to a dough. Use the wooden spoon to spread the dough out on a large plate and allow to cool for about 15 minutes. Knead the dough into a ball, flatten slightly, wrap in cling film and place in the fridge for about 30 minutes to firm up.

2 While the pastry is chilling, mix all ingredients for the minced pork mixture together in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper, then fry a tiny bit to taste for seasoning (see tip on page 70).

3 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

4 Roll out half of the pastry on a lightly floured work surface until it is about 7mm (3/8in) thick and use to line the tart tin. Trim the edges and brush around them with some of the beaten egg.

5 Cover the base of the pastry with five of the trimmed bacon rashers. Place the minced pork mixture over the top, then make four ‘dips’ or ‘wells’ for the eggs to go into. Crack an egg into each of these ‘wells', then cover the mixture with the remaining five rashers.

6 Roll out the second half of the pastry until it is also about 7mm (1/4in) thick and carefully place it on top of the pie. Trim the edges and brush the top with a little more of the beaten egg. If you wish, roll out the scraps until they are about 5mm (¼in) thick and cut into leaves or whatever shapes take your fancy! Place on top of the pie and brush the shapes with the remainder of the beaten egg to glaze.

7 Make a hole, about 5mm (¼in) wide in the centre of the pastry at the top of the pie and cook in the oven for approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes—1 hour and 20 minutes or until golden brown and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out hot (too hot to hold on the inside of your wrist). Allow to cool for at least 30 minutes before removing from the tin. When cooled, cut into slices to serve.

Linguini with shrimps, garlic and herbs
SERVES 4 – 6

A simple, classic Italian dish that is a particular favourite with my family. We try to get hold of shrimps (or small prawns) as often as possible. Use spaghetti if you don’t have linguini or why not try making your own pasta (see page 130)? 1 Fill a large saucepan with water, add 1 teaspoon of salt and bring to the boil. Add the linguini and cook for 10–12 minutes (or follow the instructions on the packet), stirring occasionally, until just tender.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

300g (11oz) linguini

110g (4oz) butter

500g (18oz) cooked and peeled shrimps or small prawns

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional)

2 tbsp chopped mixed herbs, such as parsley, chives, dill, tarragon or chervil

Squeeze of lemon juice Lemon slices, to serve

2 Meanwhile, melt the butter in a frying pan on a medium heat and, once sizzling, add the shrimps (or prawns), garlic and chilli (if using) and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 4–5 minutes, tossing regularly until warmed through and becoming golden.

3 Drain the now cooked linguini (leaving a couple of tablespoons of the cooking liquid in the saucepan) and return it to the pan, removed from the heat. Stir in the herbs and tip the shrimp mixture onto the pasta.

4 Toss everything together and check the seasoning, adding enough lemon juice to taste and more salt and pepper if necessary. Serve immediately.

Rachel’s tip

For a quick and easy snack or a simple starter, simply cook and serve the shrimps or prawns with crusty bread instead of the linguini.

Tagliatelle with smoked salmon, watercress and peas
SERVES 4

This is a really good pasta dish, great for all the family, and it makes a little bit of smoked salmon go a long way. Use rocket instead of watercress if you can’t get hold of it. If you’d like to make your own pasta, try the recipe on page 130.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

500g (1lb 2oz) tagliatelle

200g (7oz) crème fraîche

200g (7oz) smoked salmon, sliced into strips 1cm (Hin) wide

50g (2oz) frozen peas

25g (1oz) finely grated Parmesan cheese

Good squeeze of lemon juice

2 tbsp chopped chives

50g (2oz) watercress leaves, roughly chopped

1 Fill a large saucepan with water, add 1 teaspoon of salt and bring to the boil. Add the tagliatelle and cook for 10–12 minutes (or follow the instructions on the packet), stirring occasionally, until just tender.

2 In the meantime, place the crème fraîche in a saucepan on a low heat and gently warm through for 1 minute. Add the smoked salmon strips and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3 Meanwhile, cook the peas in a small saucepan of boiling, salted water (I usually take some of the pasta cooking water from the large saucepan) for 1–2 minutes or until just cooked. Add the peas to the crème fraîche mixture along with three-quarters of the Parmesan cheese, the lemon juice and half of the chives, and stir together. Season to taste with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

4 Drain the cooked pasta (leaving a couple of tablespoons of the cooking liquid in the saucepan) and return it to the saucepan, removed from the heat. Scatter with the watercress and pour over the crème fraîche mixture. Toss everything together so that all the ingredients are well combined and check the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper or lemon juice if necessary. Divide between plates or pasta bowls, scatter with the remaining chives and serve.

Fish cakes
SERVES 4

Fish cakes are a great way of using up leftover cooked potato and fish and they go down well with children. You can also experiment with other ingredients like chilli, finely chopped cooked vegetables or different herbs to give a different flavour each time. Serve the fish cakes with a flavoured mayonnaise (see overleaf) or tomato relish.

600g (1lb 5oz) floury potatoes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

400g (14oz) skinned white fish, such as cod, haddock or hake

150g (5oz) butter, diced

4 tbsp white wine

Juice of ¼ lemon

150g (5oz) button mushrooms, sliced

200g (7oz) cooked and peeled shrimps or small prawns, any larger ones chopped

2 egg yolks

3 tsp Dijon mustard

4 tbsp finely chopped herbs, such as parsley, tarragon, dill or chives (either one herb or a mixture)

3–4 tbsp olive oil

To serve

Salad leaves

Lemon wedges

1 Cook the potatoes as described in the mash recipe (see page 116). Peel and mash (but without adding any butter or milk) and transfer to a large bowl.

2 Meanwhile, place the fish in a wide, shallow saucepan and add 100g (3½oz) of the butter, the wine and the lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, then cover with a lid and gently poach on a low heat for 10–15 minutes or until the fish is cooked through. Carefully remove the fish from the pan and set aside to cool a little. Turn up the heat to high and boil the poaching liquid until it has reduced by half.

3 In the meantime, melt 25g (1oz) of the butter in a small frying pan and sauté the mushrooms on a medium heat for 8–10 minutes or until soft and golden, seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside and allow to cool a little.

4 Add the fish, reduced poaching liquid and cooked mushrooms to the mash along with the shrimps or prawns, egg yolks, mustard and herbs. Gently mix everything together, breaking the fish up as you go but being careful not to mash it up too much. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5 Shape the mixture into eight patties (each about 8cm/3in wide and 2cm/¾in thick) and arrange on a baking sheet or large plate. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for about 1 hour to firm up. (The fish cakes can be prepared to this stage in advance and either frozen or kept in the fridge for up to 24 hours.)

6 Place the olive oil and remaining butter in a large, non-stick frying pan on a low—medium heat and very gently fry the fish cakes for about 5 minutes on each side or until golden and warmed through, adding a little more oil or butter to the pan during cooking if necessary.

7 Divide the fish cakes between plates, add some salad leaves to each plate and serve immediately with your choice of accompaniment from below.

Accompaniments

Flavoured mayonnaise: Serve with the tomato aioli or herb and garlic mayonnaise (see pages 175 and 330) or simply add the finely grated zest of 1 lemon to the homemade mayonnaise (see page 330).

Herb butter: Serve with the dill butter (see page 327) or make a different flavoured butter by stirring 1 heaped tablespoon of your favourite herb, chopped, into 75g (3oz) softened butter until it is well blended.

Poached salmon with hollandaise
SERVES 4

When wild salmon is in season it’s one of the best fish to serve — quite unbeatable, and this is such an easy recipe. When poaching salmon, or indeed any fish, be sure to use as little water as necessary to minimise flavour loss. Use a saucepan that will just fit the fish. Also, I like to only add salt to the cooking water and no other flavourings. Add 1 tablespoon of salt to every 1.2 litres (2 pints) water. Salmon is delicious served with asparagus and steamed or boiled new potatoes.

Salt

18–20cm (7–8in) piece of salmon, still on the bone, cut from a whole fish that has been gutted and descaled (ask your fishmonger to do this if necessary)

300ml (½ pint) hollandaise sauce (see page 331)

1 Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil (see above for pan size and quantity of salt to add). Slide in the salmon, bring back up to the boil and then reduce the heat, cover with a lid and gently simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave the salmon to stand in the cooking liquid for 5 minutes, which will continue cooking the fish.

2 Carefully remove the salmon from the water, and when cool enough to handle, remove the skin and any brown sediment by scraping gently with a small, sharp knife. You will see that there are four segments of salmon on the bone. Run the knife carefully down the seam of each segment to release the portions away from the bone, giving four portions in total.

3 Serve immediately with the hollandaise sauce.

Rachel’s tip

If you are feeding lots of people, poach a whole salmon in a fish kettle. If you only want to poach one section of the salmon, you can freeze the rest for another time.

I van Allen’s dressed crab with tomato and basil salad
SERVES 6

Ivan Allen was Isaac’s grandfather and this is his recipe. I remember him coming into the kitchens at Ballymaloe and checking the dressed crab to ensure it was just right. Try to find whole crabs so that that you can use both the white and flavourful brown meat. I’ve given instructions for cooking a crab from scratch, but if you can’t get hold of a whole crab, you can use ready-cooked frozen crab meat instead. Try serving with a good-quality tomato relish.

How to cook a crab

1 First place the crab in the freezer for a couple of hours so that it is unconscious before boiling. To cook a crab, place it in a large saucepan, cover with warm water, add 1 tablespoon of salt for every 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and bring to the boil. Simmer on a medium heat for 20 minutes per 450g (1lb) and then pour off about two-thirds of the water, cover with a lid and continue to cook for a further 6 minutes. To check to see if the crab is cooked, gently shake it quite close to your ear and you shouldn’t hear liquid splashing around. Remove the crab and allow to cool.

2 First remove the large claws and crack these (using a heavy weight or nut crackers), then extract every bit of meat using the handle of a teaspoon. Retain the shell if making dressed crab (see overleaf), otherwise discard. Turn the body of the crab upside down and pull out the centre portion. Discard the gills, known as ‘dead man’s fingers', each about 4cm (1½in) long. Scoop out all the lovely brown meat and add it to the white meat from the claws. The meat can be used immediately or frozen for future use.

Rachel’s tip

450g (1lb) of cooked crab in the shell yields approximately 175–225g (6–8oz) crab meat.

425g (15oz) brown and white meat from 2–3 cooked fresh crabs, reserving the crab shells

100g (3½oz) soft white breadcrumbs

150ml (5fl oz) white sauce (see page 327)

2 tbsp tomato chutney or tomato relish

2 tsp white wine vinegar

1 tsp Dijon mustard or a generous pinch of dry mustard powder

75g (3oz) butter, melted

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

100g (3½oz) white breadcrumbs

For the tomato and basil salad

8 vine-ripened tomatoes (using one variety or a mixture)

Pinch of caster sugar

Good squeeze of lemon juice

2–3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Small handful of basil leaves, larger leaves torn

Two or three crab shells or six 250ml (9fl oz) ramekins or small dishes

How to dress a crab

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4. If using the crab shells, scrub them clean, dry well and arrange upside down on a baking tray. Alternatively, place the ramekins or small dishes on the tray.

2 In a large bowl, mix together the crab meat, breadcrumbs, white sauce, chutney or relish, vinegar, mustard and 25g (1oz) of the melted butter and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the mixture into the crab shells or ramekins. In a separate bowl, toss together the breadcrumbs with the remaining butter and sprinkle over the crab mixture.

3 Bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes until heated through and browned on top. Briefly place under a preheated grill, if necessary, to crisp up the crumbs.

4 In the meantime, prepare the salad. Cut the tomatoes into quarters or 1cm (½in) slices. Spread out in a single layer on a large flat plate and season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Add the lemon juice, drizzle over the olive oil and scatter with the basil leaves and toss gently together.

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