Rachel Allen

Entertaining

at

Home

CONTENTS

Cover

Title Page

Introduction

BRUNCHES AND LUNCHES

BRUNCH

Baked eggs with creamy kale

Wild mushrooms on toast with chive hollandaise

Citrus honeyed fruit

Sweetcorn fritters with mango and avocado salsa

Hot buttered oysters on toast

Lazy weekend Bloody Mary

Isaac’s frittata

LUNCH

Spinach soup with rosemary oil

Skirt steak with spicy potatoes

Oven-baked courgette tortilla

Stir-fried tofu with noodles

Celeriac soup with roasted hazelnuts

Tuscan beans on toast

Creamy fish pie with mushrooms, cucumber and leeks

Tagliatelle with smoked salmon and avocado

Clams marinara

Crab bisque

Salade Niçoise

Chicken and cabbage salad

Thai noodle broth

Pork rillettes

Game terrine with celeriac remoulade

Penne with asparagus and Parma ham

Venison sausages with celeriac purée

Stocks

DESSERTS

Polenta, orange and almond cake

Almond meringue with apricot purée

Orange meringue roulade

Apple snow with shortbread biscuits

Mango and raspberry Bellinis

Apple and blackberry bread and butter pudding

CASUAL MEALS

MAIN COURSES

Chilli sin carne

Sweet potato and chickpea tagine

Roasted vegetable coconut curry

Bean burritos with refried beans, guacamole and tomato salsa

Fish tacos with pepper and spring onion salsa

Fusilli with beans, smoked salmon and olives

Chicken and olive tagine

Chicken, pork and prawn paella

Beef and red wine stew

Chinese-style ribs with coleslaw

Mild lamb curry

Slow-roast ginger and citrus shoulder of pork

DESSERTS

Spiced poached pears

Ginger and treacle pudding

Apricot crumble

Cherry custard pudding

EATING OUTDOORS

STARTERS

Middle Eastern chilled cucumber soup

Harissa roasted vegetables

Tomato and lentil couscous salad

Pan-fried mackerel with panzanella salad

MAIN COURSES

Southeast Asian grilled fish

Salmon teriyaki

Marinades

Spiced barbecued lamb with potato salad and mint raita

Honey, mustard and ginger pork skewers

Lamb and lentil salad with olives and roast red peppers

SALADS AND SIDE DISHES

Broad bean and pancetta salad

Fennel, orange and hazelnut salad

Sue’s aubergine, yoghurt and harissa salad

Beetroot slaw

Garlic and herb mushrooms

Grilled asparagus

Barbecued corn on the cob

DESSERTS

Blueberry and custard tart

Strawberries in rosé wine

Strawberries and blueberries with Grand Marnier

Peaches with mascarpone, walnuts and honey

CANAPÉS AND SMALL BITES

SAVOURY CANAPÉS

Moroccan tomato and yoghurt shots

Spicy pastry straws

Black pudding, blue cheese and beetroot toasts

Caramelised onion, blue cheese and walnut tarts

Gently spiced prawn and bacon skewers

Smoked salmon tartlets

Buckwheat blinis with smoked salmon, crème fraîche and caviar

Crab, chorizo and anchovy toasts

Potato soup with chorizo and parsley pesto

Thai chicken cakes with sweet chilli jam

Duck and Chinese five-spice spring rolls

Mini Yorkshire puddings with peppered steak and onion jam

COCKTAILS

Watermelon margaritas

Elderflower champagne

Negroski

Summer punch

Tropical fruit fizz

Apple, rum and ginger

SWEET CANAPÉS

Mendiants

Chocolate, pecan and meringue squares

Pistachio and cranberry chocolates

Crystallised ginger fudge

Mini coffee cupcakes

SMALL CELEBRATIONS (2–4 PEOPLE)

STARTERS

Scallops with Brussels sprouts, bacon and orange

Asparagus on toast with hollandaise sauce

Warm winter green salad with Caesar dressing, smoked bacon and a poached egg

Tomato, mozzarella and tapenade crostini

Gratins of butternut squash and leek

Halloumi with Greek salad and roasted pitta wedges

MAIN COURSES

Summer pea and mint ravioli

Pan-fried tuna with olive, sun-dried tomato and caper salsa

Poached monkfish with tomato, sherry vinegar and toasted hazelnut salsa

Pan-grilled chicken breasts with basil cream sauce and roast cherry tomatoes

Rack of lamb

Chicken confit

Garlic and herb pork chops

Steak au poivre

Pheasant casserole with chorizo, cream and thyme

Roast duck breasts

SIDE DISHES

Watercress mousse

White bean purée

Pea guacamole

Potato and anchovy gratin

Cucumber with mint

Buttered courgettes

Fluffy mashed potato

Creamy lentils with rosemary and tomatoes

Creamy polenta

Sauteed rosemary potatoes

DESSERTS

Chocolate crèmes brulées

Iles flottantes

Coffee zabaglione with tuiles biscuits

Orange sorbet with Campari

DINNER PARTIES (4–8 PEOPLE)

STARTERS

Ballycotton prawn soup with rouille and toasts

Chicken liver pâté with sweet apple relish

Fish mousse with shrimp beurre blanc

Smoked mackerel and goat’s cheese soufflé

Decadent mushroom tart

Beef carpaccio

Sesame and mint chickpea pancakes

MAIN COURSES

Summer vegetable stew

Jerusalem artichokes, toasted hazelnuts and goat’s cheese with pasta ribbons

Bulgar wheat pilaf

Miso salmon steaks

Fragrant coconut prawns

Fish stew

Pot-roast pheasant with bacon and brandy

Beef Wellington

Roast pork belly with a fennel and garlic rub

Roast loin of lamb with a spicy rub

Coq au vin

Roast duck legs

SIDE DISHES

Lentils with red wine

Braised chicory

Green salad dressings

Spinach and mint orzo

Creamy potato and Gruyère gratin

Ribboned carrots with honey and parsley

Butternut squash and chickpeas with cumin and coriander

Roast garlic colcannon

French beans with lemon and pine nuts

Soy and sesame pak choi

DESSERTS

Maple pecan toffee tart

Blackberry mousse

Raspberry and amaretto tart

Peach jelly pannacotta pots

Tiramisu

Spiced raisin tart

Almond and orange cake

Orange ice cream

Cinnamon ice cream

Gin and tonic lemon sorbet

Choosing a cheese board

Paper-thin crispbreads

LARGER GATHERINGS (8–12 PEOPLE)

STARTERS

Chilled avocado soup with red and yellow pepper and coriander salsa

Roast wedges of butternut squash with goat’s cheese and spinach pesto

Spinach pesto

Zingy Asian prawns

Lamb cutlets with spinach pesto

Winter leaf salad with pomegranate, apple and walnuts

Smoked fish platter with Ballymaloe cucumber relish

MAIN COURSES

Greek red peppers

Baked beetroot risotto with Parmesan crisps

Zesty pine nut-crusted fish with salsa verde

Soy-poached fish with avocado salsa

Spiced chicken with red pepper and almonds

Conchiglie pasta with chicken livers, bacon and port

Winter herb and sausage pasta

Cassoulet

Beef and wild mushroom lasagne

Roast haunch of venison

SIDE DISHES

Wilted greens with garlic and anchovy breadcrumbs

Roast Jerusalem artichokes

Rosemary and garlic bread

Parsnip, mustard and parsley mash

Crunchy roast coriander potatoes

Potato and mushroom gratin

Cucumbers with tomatoes, cream and mint

DESSERTS

Amaretti with brandy and ice cream

Iced strawberry parfait with strawberry sauce

White chocolate and ginger parfait with dark chocolate sauce

Raspberry millefeuille

Salted caramel chocolate tart

Rhubarb and ginger crumble cake

Passion fruit and orange granita

Chocolate roulade

THE BUFFET PARTY

Egg mayonnaise

Potato and fresh herb salad

Cucumber and dill salad

Tomato and basil salad

Mushroom, lemon and garlic salad

Oignons à la Monégasque

Smoked mackerel with dill mayonnaise

Oysters

Gravalax

Poached whole salmon with basil mayonnaise

Boiled shrimps or prawns with herb mayonnaise

Crab and mayonnaise salad

Dressed mussels and clams

Ballymaloe glazed loin of bacon with spicy mayonnaise

Cold roast chicken with herb stuffing

Roast lamb with redcurrant jelly

Roast pork with apple sauce

Traditional roast rib of beef with horseradish sauce

PLANNING YOUR BUFFET PARTY

Index

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Copyright

About the Publisher

Introduction

Friends, family, good food, good times-this is what entertaining is all about. It can be as relaxed as flopping down on the sofa with a few friends to share nibbles and drinks, or as formal as getting out your best china and ironing your tablecloth for a three-course meal. How you choose to share your time and your cooking creations with your loved ones is entirely up to you. What each kind of gathering has in common, however, is a happy, welcoming atmosphere, and the main ingredient for that is you.

The kind of entertaining my family tends to do at home is most often spontaneous and casual. Maybe there’s a big pot of cassoulet bubbling away gently in the oven and we’ll realise there’s enough to share, so after a phone call or two we find ourselves with several hungry friends arriving at the door with bottles in hand. But there are also times when we’ll have a larger gathering or a particularly special evening when we want to push the boat out and make more of an effort with both the food and the table decorations.

In this book I hope to give you the inspiration and tools you will need to entertain for any gathering, whether relaxed and intimate or a great big bash, while actually getting to enjoy yourself as well. It doesn’t matter if you’re a seasoned cook or a complete novice in the kitchen; I’ve tried to give you achievable recipes that take the mystery and complication out of cooking for a special occasion. And you’ll find many of the recipes easy enough to cook to make any meal a special occasion.

Your guests

Whatever sort of entertaining you are doing, do let your friends know what kind of party it is, whether a casual plate-in-your-hand-type supper, a stand-around evening of cocktails and canapés, or a more chi-chi dressy affair. There’s nothing worse than turning up in jeans only to find that everyone else is in a little black number.

Be sure to always ask about food allergies or other dietary requirements. It’s often easier to make the same food for everyone, so don’t plan your food until you know what your limitations are. Of course, if your plans are to have a barbecue or a big roast, you may need to prepare something special for your vegetarian guests, but for the most part, simple allergies shouldn’t be such a problem that everyone has to have a limited menu. There are so many options-it’s not as scary as you think.

If you’re planning a very special occasion where you’re either cooking a more elaborate meal or you have a large crowd, you may wish to send out proper invitations with an RSVP so that you know exactly how many you’re cooking for before you do your shopping.

On the day of your party, think about having nibbles such as nuts or canapés ready to tide everyone over until all your guests have arrived-or to keep them fed if things are running late in the kitchen!

Your home

If you are doing more grown up, or ‘formal’ entertaining, take the time to think about atmosphere and how to create a welcoming setting so your guests feel you’ve made a little extra effort to make them feel special and relaxed. Little touches such as candles or fairy lights rather than harsh lighting from above can really help set the scene. Besides, who (or indeed what room) doesn’t look better in the soft glow of candlelight?

Flowers make any home look more dressed up, but that doesn’t necessarily mean investing in bouquets from the florist. Even just some little vases or jars of hand-picked flowers from your garden add a thoughtful touch. And you don’t need to limit them to the table-put them in the kitchen, living room, even the bathroom.

Your table

If you’re having a larger group of people and are feeling creative (and have the time), you may even wish to make table decorations and/or place settings for each of your guests. It also means you can control who sits next to who! It’s great fun to make name tags and people love taking them home. Be as creative as you wish. Below are some of my favourite table-decorating ideas:

* Everyone loves place cards! Try old-fashioned packing labels with the guest’s name written on and tied around a napkin or the base of a wine glass, or even pierced through onto a satay stick. Or if you’re feeling ambitious, make cookies or biscuits for each guest with their name written in icing or chocolate.

* If you don’t have napkin rings, just tie a pretty piece of ribbon around your napkins, perhaps in different colours for each napkin. To jazz it up further, you can tie on fresh rosemary and/or bread sticks.

* For a really special event, place mini wrapped presents on each place, tied up with twine or ribbon and with a name tag.

* For a seaside theme try candles in oyster or scallop shells or sand in the bottom of glass candle holders or pretty glass jars with tea lights; pebbles, slate or driftwood pieces with guest’s names in chalk; shells on the table.

* For a holiday splash, place Christmas baubles in little glasses or shallow tumblers around the table; spray some holly lightly with glitter, place small branches in a flower vase with baubles hanging off (place sand in the bottom to keep the branches in place). You can write guests’ names on bay, holly or ivy leaves with gold or silver pen.

* At Easter, you can try a similar trick-from small branches hang painted eggs. You can also spray the branches silver or gold. You could even do a mini version with quail’s eggs! Place mini pastel-coloured Easter eggs or little chicks around the table.

* In autumn, place pumpkins and squashes in groups on the table and/or outside the front door.

* For national holidays, place little flags at each setting or down the centre of the table.

* For your floral arrangements, try not to have one enormous bouquet in the middle of your table. Instead, make smaller arrangements in lots of small glass holders of different sizes so your guests can see over them. Or try small terracotta pots of herbs or little flowering plants, or put miniature bulbs, such as bluebells or narcissus, in a pot or glass vase for a temporary display. Avoid overly scented flowers, which may overpower your food.

SETTING THE TABLE

Not everyone has an extensive range of cutlery to set a formal place setting, so don’t panic about doing this ‘properly’. But I often do get asked, ‘Where should the water glass go?’ or ‘Where should I put a side plate?’, so if you want to set a fancy table, here is the general thinking on how your place setting should look:

What to serve?

Choosing your menu is the first important step to a good party. More often than not in planning what you serve, seasonality is the key. But menu planning is also about choosing dishes that will both complement each other and be enjoyable to eat together. So avoid a repetition of ingredients from course to course, as well as ensuring you have different colours and textures of food throughout. Ensure, too, that each of the elements when added up are not too heavy.

As before, be sure to get any dietary restrictions from your guests well in advance of your planning. Don’t feel you need to plan three big fancy dishes-one show stopper will be enough to create a memorable meal if you are time-starved but still want to impress. Your other courses (should you choose to serve them) can then be less complicated. You also don’t need to serve fancy dishes just because you’re having guests-simple food beautifully presented in your warm loving home can have just as much of an impact, if not more so.

At the end of each chapter I have grouped together my favourite recipe combinations or advice for preparation to make well-balanced menus in order to help simplify your planning.

PREPARING AHEAD

Do remember that entertaining should be about you having a good time too, so the more prepared you are, the easier and more fun it will be. Much to my husband’s complete puzzlement, I find list-making and even an ‘order of work’ (writing out in what order and when things should be prepared and cooked) a great help.

For stress-free entertaining, choose your menu well in advance rather than on the day or the day before. Shopping ahead is always going to make things easier! Be sure to include some recipes that can be prepared in advance so you can get ahead and not be stuck at the stove while your friends are all having a great time without you. If you are making something quite ambitious for a main course, then make sure your starter or dessert is easier to prepare. I have included lots of recipes for the time-poor, sweet-toothed among you.

It sounds so obvious, but write down exactly what you need, including any suggested cookware sizes, then check it very carefully so you can be certain you have everything you need once you get to the till.

On the day itself, set plenty of time aside to get yourself ready. Even if you’re still putting things in the oven when your guests arrive, you want to feel ready to entertain. Easier said than done sometimes, but this is where working out the timings in advance will come in handy.

Also don’t forget to place the basics on the table ahead of your guests arriving, like bread and butter or olive oil, salt and pepper, or any sauces you may need. You don’t want to have to keep jumping up and running to the kitchen.

BUDGET

One very important point to make is that entertaining does not have to be costly. Clever, seasonal shopping, and even a bit of foraging if you have the time and the resource (even if just for flowers), can lead to a great get-together. Why not invite your friends over for a relaxed casserole, or ask them to each bring a dish? Either tell people what you would like them to bring (a salad, a dessert) or let them bring what they want for a ‘pot-luck’ party-though this may not be everyone’s idea of a balanced meal! You can give them a general idea of what you want them to bring (a starter or a main, for example), so you don’t end up with ten desserts and no dinner…

If you want to have a more formal meal on a budget, think about simple but delicious stews, pasta or vegetarian dishes. Entertaining doesn’t have to be fancy-but just a little thought, such as laying the table beforehand, can make it feel special. If you’re having a special celebration but don’t want to splurge on Champagne, try less expensive, but still delicious, Prosecco or Cava. Or make it go further by making Champagne cocktails such as buck’s fizz or Bellinis.

You also needn’t feel pressure to serve a lavish three-course meal-one lovely main and a dessert is just as special.

Drinks

Not everyone is a wine expert. In fact, most people can feel a little intimidated when it comes to serving the ‘right’ wine with their meals. The easiest way to get around the stress of what to serve is to go to a good wine merchant and ask them to suggest not only what to serve with your meal, but how much to serve per person-which is, of course, entirely subjective, but the experts will take this into account! If you’re planning a large party, wine merchants also often offer discounts on multiple bottles, so don’t be afraid to ask what deals they have going for bulk purchases. For bigger parties, they may also supply returnable wine or champagne glasses free of charge. Just ask!

If you choose to serve cocktails, try to limit these to one or two, unless you really enjoy acting as bartender and/or have a big budget.

Be sure to have soft options for those who don’t drink alcohol. Even if you just posh-up a big jug of ice water by adding lemon or lime, or mint-or even coriander.

Keeping calm …

Don’t be afraid to ask for help! Nobody expects you to be a superhero, so if you need help chopping, recruit a friend or family member. If you’re having a big party, enlist a few people to be on standby to pass things around and pick things up as the evening progresses. You don’t have to do it all single-handedly.

One handy but easily forgotten tip when preparing is to clean as you go along so that your guests don’t arrive to a mess and so you have an easier clean-up afterwards. Chuck out packaging, put things in the dishwasher and wash-up bowls or utensils. It’ll also help keep your head clear if your space is as clutter-free as possible.

Try to remember that part of the fun of entertaining is the preparation itself. So crank up the music, pour yourself a glass, and go for it! Remember, everyone will appreciate your hard work and probably only you will notice if something isn’t quite as you expected. It doesn’t have to be perfect, it’s all about the having fun and sharing great times with those you love. Be prepared to have a few mishaps and you’ll have a much better time!

I hope this book helps you create many memorable meals. Above all, enjoy!

BRUNCHES AND LUNCHES

Getting together with friends and family doesn’t always mean ‘dinner’. You can have just as special a meal before the sun goes down. Birthdays, Mother’s Day, or just getting together with the girls are reason enough to plan a nice meal together. Brunch is one of my favourite meals- it allows you to put a little extra something into what is essentially a late breakfast, and it means you can have a sneaky glass of something fizzy or a Bloody Mary before noon! Here you’ll find many ideas for easy and special daytime meals.

BRUNCH

Baked eggs with creamy kale

This is delicious for brunch. If you can’t get kale, use spinach. I love to use the Irish farmhouse cheese Glebe Brethan for its delicious flavour and melting texture, but you can use Gruyère instead.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

25g (1oz) butter

900g (2lb) kale with stalks removed before weighing

Salt and ground black pepper

350ml (12fl oz) single or regular cream

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

6 eggs

350g (12oz) Glebe Brethan or Gruyère cheese, grated

Six 100ml (3½ fl oz) ramekins or ovenproof dishes

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Add the butter to a large wide frying pan and place over a medium heat. Add the kale and season with salt and pepper. As soon as the kale wilts and becomes tender, add the cream and nutmeg, then allow to bubble for 3–5 minutes until thickened.

3 Divide the kale between the ramekins or dishes, placing it around the inside of each dish and leaving a small well in the centre.

4 Break one egg into each dish and sprinkle the grated cheese over the top. Bake in the oven for 8–10 minutes or until golden on top and bubbling around the edges. Scatter over a little pepper and serve immediately with a little toast on the side.

Wild mushrooms on toast with chive hollandaise

I like to use chanterelles or oyster mushrooms for this recipe. Chanterelles are one of my favourite mushrooms. They have a huge amount of flavour and their colour is like liquid gold. Here they transform what is essentially just mushrooms on toast into a luxurious breakfast treat.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

3 generous handful of wild mushrooms

50g (2oz) butter, plus extra for spreading

6 slices of bread

100ml (3½fl oz) chive hollandaise (see below)

For the chive hollandaise

2 egg yolks

100g (4oz) butter, diced

Squeeze of lemon juice

1–2 tbsp chopped chives

Salt and ground black pepper

1 First make the hollandaise sauce following the instructions on page 159, stirring the chopped chives into the cooked sauce just before seasoning,

2 Next carefully clean the mushrooms. The best way to do this is to brush off any soil or debris with a pastry brush. Avoid washing them as this will make them soggy during cooking.

3 Place a large frying pan on a high heat and allow it to get quite hot. Add the butter and when it has melted and starts to foam, tip in the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 3–5 minutes, tossing regularly.

4 Meanwhile, toast the bread and spread with butter.

5 When the mushrooms are cooked, taste for seasoning then arrange on top of the hot buttered toast, drizzle with the chive hollandaise and serve immediately.

Citrus honeyed fruit

The sweet-sour combination of lime juice and honey is a lovely way to enhance the flavours of some fruit. I like to add chopped mint for a fresh taste. This is ideal for serving at breakfast.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

Juice of 1–2 limes

1–2 tbsp runny honey

2–3 tsp chopped mint (optional)

750g (1lb 10oz) mixed fruit, such as melon, bananas, raspberries, pineapple

1 In a large bowl, mix together the lime juice, honey and mint (if using). Peel any of the larger fruit (if necessary) and cut into bite-sized pieces. Add all the fruit to the bowl and stir to cover.

2 Leave to macerate for 10–15 minutes before serving.

Sweetcorn fritters with mango and avocado salsa

These gorgeous light fritters make a delicious brunch when eaten with the avocado and mango salsa, but they can be served on their own as a starter. You’ll need a good ripe avocado and mango for the salsa, which shouldn’t be made more than half an hour to an hour in advance or the avocado will discolour.

MAKES 15–20 FRITTERS SERVES 4–6 VEGETARIAN

2 eggs, separated

3 tbsp milk

50g (2oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

200g (7oz) tinned or frozen and defrosted sweetcorn (drained weight)

4–6 tbsp olive oil

For the mango and avocado salsa

1 avocado

1 small or ½ medium-large mango

2 spring onions

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp roughly chopped coriander

Squeeze of lemon juice

Salt and ground black pepper

1 First make the salsa. Peel the avocado and mango, remove their stones and cut the flesh into 1 cm (½ in cubes). Trim and finely slice the spring onions.

2 Put all the salsa ingredients into a large bowl, gently mix together and season to taste with salt and pepper, then set aside.

3 Place the egg yolks in another bowl and mix together with the milk. Sift in the flour, baking powder and salt. Mix together until smooth then stir in the sweetcorn.

4 In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg whites until they form stiff peaks, then carefully fold into the corn mixture.

5 Place a frying pan on a medium heat and add 3 tablespoons of olive oil. (If using a large frying pan, you may need to add more oil-it should completely cover the base of the pan.) When the oil is quite hot, add tablespoon-sized blobs of the mixture, very lightly flattening these with the back of the spoon if they are too lumpy. Cook for 30 seconds–1 minute or until golden and crusty underneath, then, using a fish slice or palette knife, gently turn over and cook for a further minute or so on the other side. They are cooked when they are golden in colour and have a light spring to the touch in the centre.

6 Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the rest of the mixture. (You can do several at once, but be careful not to overload the pan or they will stick together. You will need to add more oil for each new batch.) Serve as soon as possible; kept warm in a baking tray in a low oven where they can sit for about 30 minutes, though they are best eaten straight from the pan!

Hot buttered oysters on toast

For a little bit of decadence these make a fabulous starter or a light meal.

SERVES 6

18 oysters (3 per person)

50g (2oz) butter, plus extra for spreading

6 slices of bread

1 tbsp lemon juice

Salt (optional) and ground black pepper

1 Open the oysters one by one. Place an oyster on a tea towel, flat side up. Wrap your non-cutting hand in another cloth so you won’t get cut if the knife slips. Take an oyster knife, look for a chink in the shell at the narrow, hinged end, then insert the blade and, applying quite a bit of force, press, turn and lever upwards.

2 Put the opened oysters into a sieve set over a bowl and cut away the flesh from the shells. Discard the shells or wash them and use as salt and pepper holders. Tip the juices into a heavy-based frying pan, then, on a high heat, bring the juices to the boil. When they are boiling, whisk in the butter.

3 Add the oysters and, still on a high heat, toss for 1 minute or until the oysters are warmed through and have firmed up slightly and the sauce slightly reduced.

4 Meanwhile, toast the bread and butter it, and place on plates.

5 Just before serving, add the lemon juice and taste — it probably won’t need any salt. Place the oysters on the buttered toast, pour over the juices, add a grinding of black pepper and serve.

Lazy weekend Bloody Mary

This refreshing tipple is strictly for Sunday mornings. Celery salt isn’t essential, but it goes to perfection, so do get hold some if you can.

SERVES 10

50ml (2fl oz) Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp Tabasco sauce

1 tsp celery salt (optional)

5 tbsp lemon juice

1 tsp grated horseradish

1 tsp peeled and finely chopped shallot

1.8 litres (3 pints) tomato juice

2 tbsp dry sherry

300ml (½ pint) vodka

10 small sticks of celery, to serve

1 Whiz all the ingredients in a blender, then strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Serve in glasses over ice with a stick of celery.

Isaac’s frittata

A frittata is a thick and almost endlessly versatile Italian omelette. It can be flavoured with just herbs and cheese or almost a whole fried breakfast!

SERVES 4–6 VEGETARIAN

(with non-vegetarian variations)

8 eggs

50ml (2fl oz) milk

Salt and ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped chives or parsley

110g (4oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

25g (1oz) butter

25cm (10in) diameter ovenproof frying pan

1 Preheat the grill on a medium setting.

2 Break the eggs into a bowl and whisk together with the milk, seasoning with salt and pepper. Next gently mix in the herbs and grated cheese.

3 Place a large non-stick frying pan on a low-medium heat. Add the butter and when it has melted and starts to foam, add the egg mixture to the warm pan. Using a wooden spoon, scrape the cooked mixture from the bottom, from the outside in, filling its space with liquid egg by gently tilting the pan. Do this 5–6 times, then allow the mixture to cook for a further 2–3 minutes or until the bottom of the frittata is golden — you can tell this by lifting it slightly up at the edge using a palette knife or fish slice.

4 Take the pan off the heat and place under the grill, making sure that you leave a gap of a few centimetres between the frittata and the grill element. Continue cooking for a few minutes until the mixture has fluffed up nicely and is beginning to turn golden brown on top, by which stage the frittata will have cooked through to the centre.

5 Using a palette knife or fish slice, loosen the edges and slide onto a plate. Serve immediately or allow to cool to room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Make the recipe as above, adding the following to the basic egg mixture just before cooking:

Breakfast frittata: 150g (5oz) sliced mushrooms, fried in a little butter and seasoned with salt and pepper, and 10 rashers of streaky bacon, cut into 1cm (½in) pieces and fried until crispy.

Frittata ranchera: 150g (5oz) peeled and chopped onion, sweated in a little sunflower oil or butter, 4 small tomatoes cut into 5mm (¼in) dice, 1 tablespoon of finely chopped and deseeded red chilli (or more to taste) and 2 tablespoons of chopped coriander.

LUNCH

Spinach soup with rosemary oil

The aromatic flavour of rosemary, drizzled as an oil over this soup, works to perfection with spinach. Instead of making the rosemary oil, you could add 1 tablespoon of chopped rosemary leaves to the soup just before blending, or a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

For the rosemary oil

1 sprig of rosemary, broken in half

50ml (2fl oz) olive oil

For the spinach soup

15g (½oz) butter

110g (4oz) peeled and chopped onions

150g (5oz) peeled and chopped potatoes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

600ml (1 pint) vegetable stock

600ml (1 pint) milk

275g (10oz) spinach (any large stalks removed before weighing), chopped

1 Put the rosemary in a small saucepan with the olive oil and heat gently on a low heat until tepid. Remove the pan from the heat and let the rosemary infuse for 10 minutes. Strain the oil through a sieve into a jug.

2 For the soup, melt the butter in a large saucepan, add the onions and potatoes, season with salt and pepper, cover with a lid and cook on a very low heat for 10 minutes, stirring every now and again.

3 Meanwhile, pour the stock and milk into another saucepan, bring to the boil and add to the vegetables. Bring the mixture back up to the boil, then tip in the spinach and cook, uncovered, over a high heat for 1–2 minutes or until the spinach is just cooked.

4 To preserve the fresh flavour, blend the soup straight away, in a blender or using a hand-held blender. Serve in individual bowls with a drizzle of rosemary oil over the top.

Skirt steak with spicy potatoes

A lunchtime steak is not for the faint hearted, so this is one to save for the weekend. Skirt steak is wonderfully tender and has a great flavour, though it needs to be cooked very quickly or it can overcook and toughen.

SERVES 6

750g (1lb 10oz) potatoes (unpeeled if small), cut into 1–2cm (½–¾in) dice

Salt and ground black pepper

75ml (3fl oz) olive oil

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or finely grated

1–2 red chillies, deseeded and finely diced

2 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground (see tip below)

6 generous tbsp chopped coriander or parsley

6 thin skirt steaks (each weighing about 110g/4oz)

1 Place a saucepan of water on a high heat, add 1 teaspoon of salt and bring to the boil. Add the potatoes and cook for 3–5 minutes or until they have slightly softened, then drain thoroughly before tipping onto kitchen paper to dry completely.

2 Set a large frying pan on a high heat, pour in 50ml (2fl oz) of the olive oil and, when hot, add the potatoes and cook, tossing frequently, for 3 minutes. Add the garlic, chillies and cumin and cook for a further 3–5 minutes or until the potatoes are golden and crispy, then tip in the chopped herbs.

3 While the potatoes are cooking, fry the steaks. Place a separate frying pan (cast iron if possible) on a high heat and allow it to get very hot. Season the steaks on both sides with salt and pepper, add the remaining oil to the pan and cook the steaks for about 1 minute on each side. (If you overcook them, they will toughen.)

4 Remove the steaks from the pan and serve straight away (they can be kept warm in a low oven for 5–10 minutes, if needed) with the sautéed potatoes on the side.

RACHEL’S TIP

To toast and grind nuts or seeds, place the nuts or seeds in a frying pan on a high heat and cook, tossing frequently, for about 1 minute or until the nuts/seeds are browned. They toast very quickly, so take care not to burn them. To grind them into a powder, use a pestle and mortar, a coffee grinder dedicated to the purpose, or place the nuts or seeds in a plastic bag and use a rolling pin to crush them.

Oven-baked courgette tortilla

In Spain, a ‘tortilla’ describes a large omelette that usually contains fried potatoes. Add to it practically anything you like, within reason, depending on what is in season. Here there are nuggets of softened feta and moist courgette with the cooling refreshment of mint.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

150g (5oz) new potatoes

Salt and ground black pepper

300g (11oz) courgettes

2 tbsp olive oil

8 eggs

2 tbsp single or regular cream

2 tbsp chopped mint

150g (5oz) feta cheese, roughly crumbled

25cm (10in) diameter ovenproof frying pan

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6.

2 Place the potatoes in a saucepan and cover with water. Add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil, then cook for 20 minutes or until tender. Drain, then peel and cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks and set aside.

3 Halve the courgettes lengthways and slice into 1cm (½in) pieces. Pour the oil into a large ovenproof frying pan on a medium heat, add the courgettes, season with salt and pepper and cook for 5–7 minutes or until softened, tossing occasionally.

4 Meanwhile, in a large bowl whisk the eggs together with the cream and mint and season with salt and pepper.

5 Add the potatoes and feta to the courgettes in the frying pan and lightly mix together. Pour in the whisked eggs and cook for 5 minutes or until golden underneath, then cook in the oven for 10–15 minutes or until just set in the centre. Serve immediately with a fresh green salad.

Stir-fried tofu with noodles

Tofu is a social butterfly, at its happiest when surrounded by lots of flavourful friends, literally soaking up anything you want to pair it with. This is an extremely quick and easy dish to make, as well as being very healthy and nutritious.

SERVES 3 VEGETARIAN

2 tbsp toasted sesame oil

1 tbsp peeled (see tip below) and finely chopped root ginger

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

½ red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

4 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced

400g (14oz) firm tofu, cut into 1.5cm (⅝in) cubes

2 small pak choi, shredded into 1cm (½in) slices

250g (9oz) thin rice noodles or soba noodles

4 tbsp light soy sauce

1 tbsp Chinese rice wine or dry sherry

1 tbsp sesame seeds

2 tbsp chopped coriander

1 Set a wok or large, non-stick frying pan on a high heat and pour in the sesame oil. When it is very hot, add the ginger, garlic, chilli and spring onions and stir-fry quickly for 30 seconds or until the garlic begins to turn golden.

2 Add the tofu cubes and stir-fry for a further 4–5 minutes or until they begin to brown around the edges, then add the pak choi and stir-fry for a further 2–3 minutes or until the pak choi is wilted.

3 Meanwhile, cook the rice or soba noodles following the instructions on the packet.

4 Add the soy sauce, rice wine or dry sherry to the tofu mixture, along with half the sesame seeds and half the coriander. Cook for a further 2 minutes. Divide the cooked noodles between individual bowls, spoon over the tofu mixture and sprinkle with the remaining coriander and sesame seeds.

RACHEL’S TIP

To peel root ginger, try using the tip of a teaspoon rather than a peeler; this is not only easier, but you also remove less of the ginger flesh in the process.

Celeriac soup with roasted hazelnuts

Celeriac has a surprisingly subtle celery-like flavour considering its aggressively gnarled appearance. The hazelnuts in this soup provide a gorgeous crunchy contrast to the smooth creamy finish.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

25g (1oz) butter

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 potato, peeled and chopped

1 celeriac, peeled and chopped

Salt and ground black pepper

About 900ml (1 pint 12fl oz) vegetable stock

75ml (3fl oz) single or regular cream

Handful of chopped mixed herbs

To serve

Handful of roasted, peeled (see Rachel’s tip below) and roughly chopped hazelnuts

2–3 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Melt the butter in a large saucepan on a low–medium heat, add the chopped onion, potato and celeriac and season with salt and pepper. Place a butter wrapper or piece of greaseproof paper on top, cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low and cook for 7–8 minutes, stirring regularly.

2 Pour in the stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a further 10 minutes or until the vegetables are completely soft. Add the cream and the chopped herbs and blend the soup in a blender or using a hand-held blender until it is smooth and velvety. Taste for seasoning.

3 To serve, ladle into warmed bowls and sprinkle with the roasted hazelnuts and parsley.

RACHEL’S TIP

To roast and peel hazelnuts, preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Place the hazelnuts on a baking tray and cook for about 10 minutes or until their skins have darkened, then remove from the oven. To remove the skins, wrap the nuts in a clean tea towel while they are still warm (I find this tends to slightly stain the tea towel, so don’t use your favourite!) and rub together. The skins should come off easily.

Tuscan beans on toast

This is the best ever beans on toast that you can imagine. But there’s no tomato sauce here, just lots of delicious sweet pungent garlic, fresh lemon juice and lashings of chopped parsley. Serve on your favourite kind of toast.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

400g (14oz) dried haricot or cannellini beans

1 bay leaf

8 large cloves of garlic, peeled

6 slices of bread

Butter, for spreading

6 tbsp chopped parsley

2 tbsp lemon juice

4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

Salt and ground black pepper

Lemon wedges, to serve

1 Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover by several centimetres. Drain the beans and place in a large saucepan filled with fresh cold water. Add the bay leaf and garlic and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover with a lid and simmer for 1–2 hours or until very soft, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface.

2 Just as the beans have finished cooking, toast the bread, spread with butter and place on individual plates.

3 Meanwhile, drain most of the liquid from the beans, leaving a few tablespoons with the beans in the pan. Take out one-third of the beans and the garlic and mash together to form a rough paste.

4 Discard the bay leaf and stir the paste into the cooked beans, along with the parsley, lemon juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and serve on the slices of hot buttered toast with some extra oil drizzled over and lemon wedges.

RACHEL’S TIP

If you are being spontaneous and want to make this immediately, instead of the dried beans you could use 3 × 400g tins of cooked haricot or cannellini beans. Drain and rinse the beans, then place in the saucepan with the bay leaf and garlic, peeled and crushed, and simmer on a low-medium heat for about 5–10 minutes (or until the beans are soft enough to mash), then proceed as above.

Creamy fish pie with mushrooms, cucumber and leeks

This fish pie is so easy to make. You don’t need to mash the potatoes and pipe them over the top as they are layered into the pie. Leeks and mushrooms are a classic combination, but the fairly unusual inclusion of cucumber gives this pie a lovely set of textures.

SERVES 6

8 potatoes (about 1.2kg/2lb 10oz) potatoes, unpeeled

Salt and ground black pepper

50g (2oz) butter

500g (1lb 2oz) button mushrooms, sliced

600g (1lb 5oz) round white fish, such as haddock, pollack, cod or hake, cut into 6 portions

½ cucumber (about 200g/7oz), peeled (optional) and cut into 1cm (½in) cubes

250g (9oz) trimmed and finely sliced leeks

275ml (9½fl oz) single or regular cream

250g (9oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

30 × 20cm (12 × 8in) pie dish or 6 individual dishes about 10cm (4in) in diameter

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Fill a large saucepan with enough water to cover the potatoes, add 1 teaspoon of salt and bring to the boil. Add the potatoes and cook for about 10 minutes or until half cooked (but not soft all the way through). Drain and allow to cool, then peel and cut into slices 5mm (¼in) thick.

3 Meanwhile, set a large frying pan on a high heat and add the butter. When it melts and starts to foam, add the sliced mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, for 3–4 minutes or until lightly golden.

4 Place half of the potatoes in a layer in the single pie dish or individual dishes, followed by a layer of the sautéed mushrooms then the fish (one portion per dish if using individual dishes). Add the cucumber and leeks, season with salt and pepper, then top with a final layer of potato slices, and season again with salt and pepper.

5 Divide the cream between each dish, or if making a large pie then pour all the cream in the one dish — it should come about halfway up the layered ingredients. Finally, sprinkle each dish (or the single large dish) with the grated cheese.

6 Bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes for individual pies or 20–30 minutes for a single large one, until the top is golden and bubbling, by which point the fish should be cooked all the way through. Serve hot and bubbling.

Tagliatelle with smoked salmon and avocado

Rich and velvety, this simple dish is easy to throw together, yet with the avocado and smoked salmon it retains a degree of luxury. It should be served immediately as the avocado will quickly brown.

SERVES 6

600g (1lb 5oz) dried tagliatelle

25g (1oz) butter

50ml (2fl oz) olive oil

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or finely grated

3 tbsp chopped herbs, such as chives, tarragon or basil

300g (11oz) smoked salmon, cut into 1cm (½in) pieces

Salt and ground black pepper

1 tbsp cream cheese

2 ripe avocados, peeled, stones removed and flesh diced

Juice of ½ lemon

1 Cook the tagliatelle following the instructions on the packet.

2 While the pasta is cooking, place a saucepan on a medium heat and add the butter and olive oil. When the butter has melted, add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes, then add the herbs and smoked salmon, season with salt and pepper and cook for a further minute.

3 Remove from the heat and stir in the cream cheese, followed by the diced avocado. Drain the pasta and toss with the smoked salmon mixture, squeeze over the lemon juice, taste for seasoning and serve immediately.

Clams marinara

This clam dish is great rustic Spanish food for casual entertaining. Serve it as a tapa or in a big bowl in the centre of the table, letting your guests help themselves. Make sure you have lots of crusty white bread to mop up all the delicious juices. You can make this with paprika (sweet or hot) or you can use chopped parsley instead. I like to use sweet smoked paprika.

SERVES AT LEAST 6

1.5kg (3lb 5oz) fresh clams

Salt

5 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

2 tbsp plain flour

2 tsp sweet smoked paprika

250ml (9fl oz) dry white wine

3 tbsp chopped parsley (optional)

Squeeze of lemon juice (optional)

1 First wash the clams by placing them in a bowl of cold water with a good pinch of salt and leaving them for 10 minutes, so that they release any remaining sand. Drain in a colander or sieve and sort through them, discarding any shells that are open and which don’t close when tapped on a worktop.

2 Pour the olive oil into a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, add the onion and garlic and cook for 6–7 minutes or until nearly soft and slightly golden.

3 Add the flour and the paprika and stir for 30 seconds, mixing them in with the oil. Pour in the wine, stirring to remove any lumps from the flour, then tip in the clams, cover with a lid and cook for 3–4 minutes over a medium heat or until they have opened (discarding any that don’t).

4 Stir in half the parsley (if using) and taste the sauce for seasoning, adding a little lemon juice if necessary. Serve in a big wide bowl with the remaining parsley over the top and some good crusty white bread to mop up all the delicious juices.

Crab bisque

A bisque is a gorgeous rich creamy soup made using fish, shellfish or meat. This crab bisque is fab — the sweetness of the crab meat is lightened ever so slightly by the tomatoes and ginger. You can either buy cooked crab meat or to cook your own (see below). Serve the soup as a starter or for lunch with crusty bread.

SERVES AT LEAST 6

50g (2oz) butter

1 onion (about 200g/7oz), peeled and chopped

Salt and ground black pepper

400g (14oz) cooked crab meat from 2 medium–large crabs (white and brown meat if possible)

100ml (3½fl oz) dry white wine

2 tsp peeled and finely chopped root ginger

600ml (1 pint) Crab or Prawn/Shrimp Stock (see opposite) or fish stock

200g (7oz) chopped fresh or tinned tomatoes

100ml (3½fl oz) single or regular cream

1 Melt the butter in a large saucepan on a medium heat, then add the onion with some salt and pepper and cook for 6–8 minutes or until the onion is softened but not browned.

2 Add all the remaining ingredients apart from the cream and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes or until the tomatoes are completely soft.

3 Remove the saucepan from the heat and whiz the soup in a blender. Reheat gently if necessary and stir in the cream, season to taste and serve immediately with some crusty bread.

COOKING A CRAB

1 First place the crab in the freezer for a couple of hours so that it is unconscious before boiling. To cook it, place in a large saucepan, cover with water, add 1 tablespoon of salt for every 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and bring to the boil.

2 Simmer on a medium heat for 20 minutes per 450g (1lb) and then pour off about two-thirds of the water, cover with a lid and continue to cook for a further 6 minutes. To check to see if the crab is cooked, gently shake it quite close to your ear and you shouldn’t hear liquid splashing around. Remove the crab and allow to cool.

3 Once the crab has cooled, remove the large claws and crack these (using a heavy weight or nut crackers), then extract every bit of meat using the handle of a teaspoon. Retain the shell if making dressed crab or stock, otherwise discard all of the shell. Turn the body of the crab upside down and pull out the centre portion.

4 Discard the gills, known as ‘dead man’s fingers’, each about 4cm (1½ in) long. Scoop out all the lovely brown meat and add it to the white meat from the claws. The meat can be used immediately or frozen for future use.

NOTE: 450g (1lb) of cooked crab in the shell yields approximately 175–225g (6–8oz) crab meat.

Crab or prawn/shrimp stock

If you have any shells left over after preparing and eating shellfish such as crabs, prawns or shrimps, then use them to make this shellfish stock. It can be used for the Crab Bisque (opposite) as well as the Ballycotton Prawn Soup. Stock can easily be frozen in small portions to be used whenever you need.

MAKES ABOUT 1.2 LITRES (2 PINTS)

1 litre (1¾ pints) crab, prawn or shrimp shells

1 glass of dry white wine

1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped

1 stick of celery, trimmed and roughly chopped

1 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped

2 tbsp tomato paste

A few sprigs of parsley

1 small bay leaf

6 whole black peppercorns

1 tsp salt

1 Place the shells in a saucepan, cover with 1 litre (1¾ pints) of water and bring to the boil.

2 Add the remaining ingredients, bring back up to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer (but do not boil) for 30 minutes, skimming off any foam that appears on the surface. If you are making crab stock, it is necessary to simmer the shells in a pan covered with a lid for 20 minutes.

3 Pour through a fine sieve or through muslin and use immediately or either keep in the fridge for up to 48 hours or freeze for up to 1 month.

RACHEL’S TIP

If you are using large crab shells, first break them up slightly by placing them in a thick plastic bag and bashing them with a rolling pin or even a hammer.

Salade Niçoise

This is, of course, a classic, and when made with freshly seared tuna and delicious seasonal vegetables, lovely free-range eggs and really good olive oil, it is a perfect, fresh daytime dish.

SERVES 6

18 small new potatoes, unpeeled

Salt and ground black pepper

18 French beans

3 handfuls of rocket leaves

3 chunky tuna steaks, seared

6 eggs, hard-boiled (see tip below), peeled and cut into quarters

2 tbsp chopped parsley

2 tbsp sliced or torn basil

6 very ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges

24 black olives with the stones in, or pitted if you prefer (see tip below)

2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed

9 spring onions, trimmed and cut into 1cm (½in) chunks

18 tinned anchovies, drained and rinsed

Handful of chopped mixed herbs

For the dressing

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

1 tsp runny honey

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

1 Place the potatoes in a saucepan and cover with water. Add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil, then cook for 20 minutes or until tender. Drain the potatoes and cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks and set aside.

2 Meanwhile, bring another saucepan of water to the boil, add a good pinch of salt and cook the French beans for 3–4 minutes or until just cooked but still a little ‘squeaky’ when bitten, then drain and set aside.

3 Next make the dressing by placing all the ingredients in a clean screw-top jam jar. Season with a little salt and pepper, then place the lid on the jar and shake vigorously. Set aside.

4 Place the rocket leaves in a serving dish, then arrange the cooked potatoes and beans randomly on top, along with the remaining ingredients. Season with salt and pepper, pour over the dressing and sprinkle with the herbs. Toss the salad so all the ingredients are evenly coated in the dressing and serve immediately.

RACHEL’S TIPS

Boiling the eggs for 8–9 minutes will leave the whites completely cooked but the yolks still ever so slightly soft, which is ideal for this dish.

Try to resist buying olives that come ready-pitted in jars as they have much less flavour. To pit them, just give them a bash with the flat side of a chopping-knife blade and remove the stones.

Chicken and cabbage salad

This is a wonderful, great big salad to serve as a centrepiece for a lunch with friends. Like any good salad, this one has a lovely balance of flavours and textures.

SERVES 6–8

4 large cooked chicken breasts or thighs, shredded

1 tsp chopped tarragon

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

200g (7oz) streaky bacon rashers

½ green leafy cabbage, such as Savoy

2 green eating apples, grated

3 large carrots, peeled and grated

2 tbsp mayonnaise

Salt and ground black pepper

1 In a large bowl, mix together the chicken with the tarragon, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the vinegar.

2 Cut the bacon rashers into 2cm (¾in) pieces. Quarter the cabbage lenthways, remove the core and finely slice the leaves.

3 Place a frying pan on a medium-high heat and pour in the remaining olive oil. Add the bacon and cook, stirring frequently, for 3–4 minutes or until the bacon is golden and crispy. Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper.

4 When the bacon is cooked, add it to the bowl with the chicken, followed by all the remaining ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then toss together and serve.

Thai noodle broth

The Thai tradition of making a specially flavoured paste as a base for soups is a great way of dispersing flavours, but it’s also such a convenient method for entertaining, as the paste can be made beforehand and will keep for a week or two. I’ve used tiger prawns here, but you could use any prawns or chicken.

SERVES 3–4

75g (3oz) egg or rice noodles (optional)

1 × 400ml tin of coconut milk

450ml (16fl oz) chicken stock

250g (9fl oz) peeled raw tiger prawns

For the paste

1 bunch of coriander

1 lemongrass stalk (outer layer removed), roughly chopped

3 cloves of garlic, peeled

2 tbsp light soy sauce

1 tbsp fish sauce (nam pla)

2 tbsp caster sugar

½ red chilli, deseeded

To serve

½ red chilli, deseeded and sliced

Juice of 1 lime

A few splashes of fish sauce (nam pla)

1 Cook the egg or rice noodles (if using) following the instructions on the packet, then drain and rinse through with cold water. Drain again.

2 For the paste, remove the leaves from the coriander and chop 4 tablespoons of the leaves to serve. Set aside and put the stalks, together with the rest of the paste ingredients and 2 tablespoons of water, in a food processor. Whiz for 1–2 minutes or until smooth.

3 Pour into a large saucepan and cook for 1 minute on a medium heat, then add the coconut milk and stock and gently warm through for 5 minutes. Add the prawns and noodles (if using) and cook for a further 2 minutes.

4 To serve, stir in the chilli, chopped coriander leaves, lime juice and fish sauce, and pour into warmed bowls.

VARIATION

Thai chicken soup: Make the recipe as above, replacing the prawns with thin slices of raw chicken, adding the chicken 2 minutes before the noodles.

Pork rillettes

This has to be one of my very favourite things to eat! It’s a sort of rough pâté. Traditionally made just with pork, rillettes is now prepared with other types of meat and even fish, but the original is the best in my opinion. I usually pot it and serve it as a starter or for lunch with delicious breads from the market and some cornichons on the side. It will keep for a few months if left completely covered in the fat in a sealed jar.

MAKES 1 LITRE (1¾ PINTS)

500g (1lb 2oz) pork belly

500g (1lb 2oz) pork shoulder

200ml (7fl oz) dry white wine

6 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

½ tsp ground black pepper, plus extra if needed

2 tsp sea salt, plus extra if needed

2 bay leaves

1 tbsp chopped thyme or rosemary leaves

Medium-sized casserole dish or ovenproof saucepan

1 Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2.

2 Remove the rind and fat from the top of the pork and cut the flesh into 1–2cm (½–¾in) cubes. Also cut the pork shoulder into 1–2cm (½–¾in) cubes. Set the shoulder and flesh aside. Roughly chop the pork belly rind and fat into a few pieces and place in a roasting tin. Cook in the oven for ½–1 hour to render the fat, then pour the liquid into a bowl and discard (or eat!) the cooked rind. Set aside until later.

3 To make the rillettes, place all the remaining ingredients in a casserole dish or ovenproof saucepan with the meat. Place on a medium heat, stirring to mix everything together. Bring to simmering point, then cover with a lid and transfer to the oven. The rillettes need to cook for about 5 hours; all the fat on the meat should be rendered into liquid and the meat should be flaky and not at all chewy. You can break the meat up a little if you wish.

4 Taste for seasoning, then transfer to one or more sterilised preserving jars (see tip below), packing the meat down tightly and pouring over the rendered fat to just cover the meat. Allow to cool to room temperature so the fat has solidified before serving.

RACHEL’S TIP

To sterilise jars and bottles, put them through a dishwasher cycle, boil in a large saucepan filled with water for 5 minutes or place in a preheated oven (150°C/300°F/Gas mark 2) for 10 minutes.

Game terrine with celeriac remoulade

I adore this kind of food for casual entertaining: thick slabs of a wonderful rustic winter terrine sitting on slices of crusty white or sourdough bread and some tangy celeriac remoulade on the side. This is great to serve for lunch when having friends staying over for the weekend. If you have a mincer, the texture will be better, however, you can mince meat in a food processor by pulsing a few times to get very small pieces.

SERVES AT LEAST 6

25g (1oz) butter, plus extra for greasing

1 large onion, peeled and very finely chopped

Salt and ground black pepper

300g (11oz) boneless mixed game bird meat, minced or pulsed in a food processor

200g (7oz) minced pork (at least 20% fat)

50g (2oz) streaky bacon, minced or pulsed in a food processor

Large pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

3 juniper berries, crushed

2 tsp chopped thyme leaves

8–10 rashers of streaky bacon, rind removed

25g (1oz) shelled pistachios

2 boneless game breasts (about 200g/7oz in total), such as pheasant, pigeon, partridge or woodcock, cut into strips

Bay leaves and juniper berries, to decorate

For the celeriac remoulade

½ celeriac

250ml (9fl oz) mayonnaise

Juice of ½ lemon

2 tsp wholegrain or Dijon mustard

13 × 23cm (5 × 9in) loaf tin or casserole dish

1 Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the chopped onion with some salt and pepper, then cover with a lid and cook on a low heat for about 8–10 minutes or until the onion is softened and slightly golden. Set aside to cool.

2 Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together the minced meats with the nutmeg, juniper berries and the chopped thyme and season with salt and pepper. Add the cooked onions, then fry a little bit of this mixture in a hot pan and taste for seasoning.

3 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4, and butter the loaf tin.

4 Place the bacon rashers between two sheets of cling film and roll out with a rolling pin to make the bacon slices thinner and longer. Peel away the cling film from the bacon and line a loaf tin or small casserole by placing the rashers slices side by side along its width, making sure that each piece hangs over each side as it will be folded back over the top of the terrine.

5 Spread one-third of the minced meat mixture over the bacon on the bottom of the tin, then scatter with half the pistachios and arrange half the pieces of game on top to cover the surface. Spread out a second third of the minced meat mixture, followed by another layer of the pistachios and game fillets. Fill with the remaining minced meat mixture, level out with the back of a spoon, then fold the overlapping bacon back over the top to cover.

6 Cover with foil, place in a bain-marie (a roasting tin filled to a depth of a few centimetres with boiling water) and bake in the oven for about 1½ hours or until cooked through or firm to the touch in the centre. (To check that it’s cooked, insert a metal skewer into the centre of the terrine and leave for 10 seconds; the skewer, once removed, will then feel too hot to hold against the inside of your wrist.) Remove the foil after the first 45 minutes.

7 Let the terrine sit in the loaf tin for about 20 minutes before turning out onto a plate and allowing to cool to room temperature. Decorate with some bay leaves and juniper berries.

8 Meanwhile, make the remoulade. Peel and finely slice the celeriac into matchstick-sized pieces or grate using the roughest part of the grater or in a food processor. Then mix with the remaining ingredients in a bowl, seasoning to taste.

9 Cut the terrine into slices and serve with crusty white or sourdough bread and the celeriac remoulade.

RACHEL’S TIP

If you are using your own game meat, use it from the legs, thighs, kidneys, livers and hearts. If you or someone you know has shot a pheasant, pigeon or partridge, you could use up the whole bird in this dish: I tend to use two pheasants or one pheasant and one pigeon, but you could otherwise use a pack of mixed game from the butcher or a supermarket.

Penne with asparagus and Parma ham

Parma ham is one of the world’s great foods, with an incredible complexity to its flavour. This is a simple lunch dish that is all about letting great ingredients speak for themselves.

SERVES 6

600g (1lb 5oz) dried penne

18 asparagus spears

Table salt, sea salt and ground black pepper

25g (1oz) butter

6 tbsp créme fraîche

8 large slices of Parma or Serrano ham, roughly cut into strips

A few shavings of Parmesan cheese per portion (shaved with a peeler)

1 Cook the penne following the instructions on the packet, then drain, reserving a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid, and return to the warm pan (off the heat).

2 While the pasta is cooking, snap off the tough woody part at the bottom of each asparagus spear and discard. Fill a large saucepan to a depth of 4–6cm (1½–2½in) with water, add some table salt and bring to the boil. Tip in the asparagus and cook in the boiling water for 4–8 minutes or until just cooked.

3 Drain the asparagus immediately, then cut each spear at an angle into 3–4 shorter lengths. Place in a bowl, add the butter and season with sea salt and pepper.

4 Add the crème fraîche to the drained pasta in the pan and toss to coat, then tip in the asparagus and Parma ham and season to taste with sea salt and pepper. Serve in warmed bowls with a few shavings of Parmesan on top of each portion.

Venison sausages with celeriac purée

These skinless sausages make a substantial, comforting meal — a great winter lunch. Celeriac is quite an ugly-looking vegetable — those gnarled roots look positively ancient. When peeling it, you’ll find the skin goes quite deep in places. But beneath that knobbly armour is flesh that, when cooked, has a subtle flavour with just a hint of celery.

SERVES 4–6 MAKES 12 SAUSAGES

25g (1oz) butter

1 onion, peeled and diced

300g (11oz) venison, minced or pulsed in a food processor

200g (7oz) minced pork (at least 20% fat)

50g (2oz) fresh white bread crumbs

1 egg, beaten

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or finely grated

1 tbsp chopped rosemary leaves

1 tbsp wholegrain mustard

Salt and ground black pepper

1–2 tbsp olive oil

For the celeriac purée

1 celeriac, peeled and chopped into 1–2cm (½–¾in) dice

2 floury potatoes, peeled and cut into 1–2cm (½–¾in) dice

400ml (14fl oz) milk

2 tbsp single or regular cream

15g (½oz) butter

1 To make the sausages, melt the butter in a large frying pan on a medium-high heat, then add the onion and fry, stirring occasionally, for 8–10 minutes until slightly golden. Set aside.

2 Meanwhile, mix all the other ingredients except the seasoning and oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper, then add the cooled onions to the mixture. If the mixture is very wet, add a few more breadcrumbs.

3 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Place a little bit of the mixture in the frying pan and cook for 1–2 minutes to check for seasoning. Shape the sausage mixture into about 12 sausages. Pour the olive oil into the frying pan and, on a medium heat, brown the sausages on every side. Then place on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 10 minutes or until cooked through.

4 For the purée, place the celeriac and potatoes in a large saucepan, then pour over the milk to just cover, simmer on a medium-low heat for about 15 minutes, then drain and mash very well. Season with salt and pepper, then add the cream and the butter. Unless serving immediately, place in a covered, ovenproof dish and keep warm in the oven after the heat has been switched off.

5 Serve the sausages with a spoonful of celeriac purée and a drizzle of cranberry sauce (see tip below).

RACHEL’S TIP

To make cranberry sauce, put 150g (5oz) cranberries in a saucepan with 50ml (2fl oz) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 6–8 minutes until the cranberries have burst and are softened. Stir in 75g (3oz) caster sugar until dissolved.

Stocks

Many of the recipes in this book require stocks and nothing can compare to a homemade broth of boiled bones, vegetables and herbs. Stocks can be made in advance, stored in small containers and kept in the freezer for handy access. The recipes here are just a guideline but try not to add too much of any one vegetable or the flavour may dominate the stock. Livers are unwelcome as they will make the stock bitter, but necks, hearts and wing tips are perfect. Also avoid starchy vegetables, such as potatoes or parsnips, as they will turn the stock cloudy. Don’t use salt when making a stock as if you eventually reduce it, the salt will remain and the liquid could be too salty. If you wish to concentrate the flavour, place the stock on a high heat and boil, uncovered, to reduce the liquid. To make your own frozen stock cubes, reduce the liquid to about a quarter of its original volume. Allow to cool and then pour into ice cube trays and freeze. Stocks can be refrigerated for three days or frozen for two months.

Vegetable stock

MAKES ABOUT 2 LITRES (3½ PINTS)

2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped

2 leeks, trimmed and roughly chopped

3 sticks of celery, trimmed and roughly chopped

3 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped

½ fennel bulb, roughly chopped

Bunch of parsley stalks

1 small sprig of rosemary

1 sprig of thyme

1 Place all the ingredients into a large saucepan or casserole dish. Add enough cold water to cover the ingredients by about 10cm (4in) and bring to a simmer.

2 Let the stock continue to simmer for an hour, then strain the liquid and discard the vegetables.

Beef stock

MAKES 3–4 LITRES (5–6¾ PINTS)

2kg (4lb 4oz) beef bones, preferably with a little meat still on

2 onions, peeled and cut in half

2 carrots, peeled and cut in half

2 sticks of celery, trimmed and roughly chopped

Bunch of parsley stalks

1 tbsp tomato paste

1 sprig of thyme

1 bay leaf

1 Preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8. Place the bones on a roasting tray and roast in the oven for about 30 minutes until browned.

2 Transfer them to a large saucepan and deglaze the roasting tray by placing it on a medium heat on the hob. Pour a little cold water into the tray (enough to cover the bottom) and bring to the boil, scraping the bottom with a whisk to dissolve the caramelised juices that are stuck to the tray. Then pour on top of the bones in the saucepan with the rest of the ingredients. Top up with enough cold water to cover everything by a good 10cm (4in) and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and bring the stock to a simmer.

3 Leave the saucepan to simmer gently for 5–6 hours, skimming the foam off the top from time to time.

4 Strain the stock, discarding the bones and vegetables. Allow to cool so the fat will rise to the top where it is easy to skim off.

Chicken stock

MAKES 1–2 LITRES (1¾–3½ PINTS)

1 chicken carcass, cooked or raw

1–2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped

1 onion or 4 spring onions, peeled and cut in half

1 leek or even just the green part, trimmed and roughly chopped

1 sticks of celery, trimmed and roughly chopped

Bunch of parsley stalks

1 sprig of thyme

1 small bay leaf

1 Place all the ingredients in a large saucepan or casserole dish. Add enough cold water to cover everything by about 8cm (3in) and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and bring the stock to a gentle simmer and then leave for about 2 hours. For the best flavour, skim the foam off the surface from time to time, though it’s not completely necessary.

2 Strain the stock so you are left with just liquid and discard the vegetables and carcasses. Chill, then lift the fat off the top and discard.

DESSERTS

Polenta, orange and almond cake

This flourless cake is made with a mixture of ground almonds and polenta, which gives a texture that is dense yet soft. The hot syrup poured over at the end makes it incredibly moist.

SERVES 6–8 VEGETARIAN

375g (13oz) butter, softened, plus extra for greasing

200g (7oz) medium or coarse polenta, plus 1 tbsp extra for dusting

375g (13oz) caster sugar

5 eggs

Finely grated zest of 2 oranges

Juice of 1 orange

300g (11oz) ground almonds

1 tsp baking powder

4 tbsp chopped pistachio nuts, to serve

For the syrup

Juice and finely grated zest of 1 orange

50g (2oz) caster sugar

23cm (9in) diameter spring-form/loose-bottomed tin with 5cm (2in) sides

1 Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas mark 3. Butter the cake tin, place a disc of greaseproof paper in the bottom and dust the tin with 1 tablespoon of polenta.

2 Cream the butter in a large bowl or in an electric food mixer until soft. Add the sugar and beat until the mixture is light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, then add the orange zest and juice. Fold in the remaining ingredients and spoon the mixture into the prepared tin. Place in the oven and cook for 80–90 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean.

3 Remove the cake from the oven and allow it to cool in the tin for about 20 minutes before transferring to a serving plate. Using a skewer, make about eight holes, each around 2.5cm (1in) deep, across the surface of the cake.

4 To make the syrup, mix together the orange zest and juice with the caster sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil and keep boiling for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat and immediately drizzle all over the polenta cake. Serve warm or at room temperature with a scattering of pistachio nuts and a dollop of crème fraîche.

RACHEL’S TIP

Depending on the oven, I sometimes quickly open it to place a piece of foil on top of the cake after 45 minutes, to prevent it from getting too brown.

Almond meringue with apricot purée

The apricot purée is also divine served with natural yoghurt as a quick snack or for breakfast. It can be stored in the fridge in an airtight container and will keep for up to a week.

SERVES 6–8 VEGETARIAN

3 egg whites

175g (6oz) caster sugar

100g (3½oz) nibbed or chopped almonds

200ml (7fl oz) double or regular cream

Icing sugar, for dusting

For the purée

2 tbsp lemon juice

100g (3½oz) caster sugar

225g (8oz) ready-to-eat dried apricots

1 Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2. Line two baking sheets with baking parchment.

2 Place the egg whites in a spotlessly clean dry bowl and whisk until the mixture is fairly stiff. Add a quarter of the sugar and continue to whisk until the mixture holds its shape. Gently fold in the remainder of the sugar, followed by the nibbed almonds.

3 Spoon half the meringue mixture onto each of the lined baking sheets and gently spread the meringue on each sheet to form a round 20–22cm (8–9in) in diameter. If you can fit both meringues on one tray, it’s easier if you’re not cooking in a fan oven.

4 Bake in the oven together for 25–30 minutes or until crisp on the outside and cream coloured. (If cooked, the meringue will lift easily off the paper.) Once the meringue is cooked, if possible leave it inside the oven for 1 hour to allow it to cool down slowly and lessen the risk of it cracking. Alternatively, remove it from the oven but don’t put it anywhere too cold as soon as you take it out.

5 To make the purée, fill a large saucepan with 850ml (1½ pints) of water, add the lemon juice and sugar and bring to the boil. Add the apricots, return to the boil then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 20 minutes or until the apricots are softened. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then place in a blender or food processor and whiz to form a purée.

6 Place a meringue round onto a serving plate or cake stand. Whip the cream and spread onto the meringue round, pour over some apricot purée, then gently place the other round on top, saving the best-looking one for this. Dust with icing sugar and cut into slices to serve, with the remaining purée on the side.

Orange meringue roulade

Here is a light dessert with a lovely citrus zing. The orange curd is delicious and the quantity given here makes twice the amount you will need for the roulade filling. Either just make half the quantity given (using 1 whole egg and 1 yolk) or make the full amount and try it served on pancakes, toast or even ice cream. The curd can be stored in an airtight plastic container in the fridge for up to a week or in a sealed jam jar for two weeks.

SERVES 8–10 VEGETARIAN

Vegetable or sunflower oil, for oiling

4 egg whites

225g (8oz) caster sugar

Icing sugar, for dusting

200ml (7fl oz) orange curd

500ml (18fl oz) whipped cream

For the orange curd

2 eggs

1 egg yolk

100g (3½oz) butter

175g (6oz) caster sugar

Juice and finely grated zest of 3 oranges

20 × 30cm (8 × 12in) Swiss roll tin

1 First make the orange curd. Whisk together the egg and egg yolk. Then melt the butter in a saucepan on a low–medium heat. Add the sugar and orange juice and zest, and pour in the eggs.

2 Stir constantly with a wooden spoon, still over a low heat (if it is too high, the egg will scramble), for 10–15 minutes or until the mixture is fairly thick. If you find the egg does start to scramble, dip the bottom of the pan in very cold water and then sieve the mixture. The curd is ready when the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of the wooden spoon and leave a definite mark when you draw a line in it with your finger. It will thicken further once cool.

3 Remove the curd from the heat, pour into a bowl and allow to cool. If you wish to keep this for two weeks, store the orange curd in sterilised jars.

4 To make the roulade, reheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4. Line the Swiss roll tin with foil, then brush with a little vegetable or sunflower oil.

5 Place the egg whites and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer and whisk for about 10 minutes until the mixture forms stiff peaks.

6 Spoon the mixture into the tin and spread it out evenly. Place in the oven and cook for 15–20 minutes or until it looks marshmallowy and lightly springy to the touch in the centre.

7 Remove from the oven and turn the meringue out onto a sheet of baking parchment or foil that has been liberally dusted with icing sugar. Peel off the foil from the base and allow to cool.

8 To assemble the roulade, first spread the orange curd evenly to cover the meringue, then spread the whipped cream over the orange curd. Gently roll up the roulade starting at one of the long edges and rolling away from you, to form a log shape. Transfer to a long serving plate, making sure the ‘join’ is facing down, and dust with icing sugar. Cut into slices to serve.

Apple snow with shortbread biscuits

This fantastically light meringue dessert is very quick to prepare, especially if you make the purée in advance and then just fold it into the whisked egg whites at the last minute. Eat on its own or with the shortbread biscuits. Once made, you can store these in a tin-if there are any left over! This recipe contains raw eggs, which should be avoided by pregnant women, the very young and the very old.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

450g (1lb) cooking apples, such as Bramley, peeled, cored and cut into chunks

175g (6oz) caster sugar

2 egg whites

Shortbread biscuits (see below), to serve

1 Place the apple chunks and sugar in a large saucepan with 100ml (3½fl oz) water, cover with a lid and simmer on a low heat for 10 minutes or until the apples are quite soft. Remove the lid and continue to simmer for another 3–4 minutes or until the apples are quite mushy and all the liquid has evaporated.

2 Remove from the heat, allow to cool a little, then whiz in a blender or food processor for a few minutes to make into a purée. Taste the purée to make sure it is sweet enough, adding a little more sugar if needed. It should be slightly sweeter than you want it to be eventually as its flavour will be diluted by the egg whites. Transfer to a large bowl and allow to cool.

3 When you are ready to serve, whisk the egg whites in a spotlessly clean bowl until they form stiff peaks. Gently fold the egg whites into the apple purée. Serve in glass bowls or glasses with the shortbread biscuits on the side.

Shortbread biscuits

MAKES ABOUT 25 BISCUITS VEGETARIAN

150g (5oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

50g (2oz) caster sugar

100g (3½oz) butter, softened

Icing sugar, for dusting (optional)

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Place the flour and sugar in a large bowl, rub in the butter then bring the mixture together to form a stiff dough, or just whiz all the ingredients together briefly in a food processor until almost combined.

3 Pat out the dough into a round about 2cm (¾in) thick, then cover with greaseproof paper or cling film and chill in the fridge for about 20 minutes. On a work surface lightly dusted with flour, roll out the dough to about 5mm (¼in) thick and cut into shapes — round, square, rectangular, heart-shaped, whatever takes your fancy. Place carefully on 2 baking sheets (no need to grease or line) and cook in the oven for 6–10 minutes or until pale golden.

4 Take out of the oven and allow to sit on the baking sheets for a few seconds to firm up slightly (don’t leave them any longer or they will stick). Transfer to a wire rack to cool, then dust with icing sugar if eating with the Apple Snow.

Mango and raspberry Bellinis

The classic Bellini cocktail — a divine combination of sparkling wine (normally Prosecco) and fresh peach juice — was invented in the 1940s by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of the celebrated Harry’s Bar in Venice. The cocktail’s particular shade of pink supposedly reminded Cipriani of the colour of the toga worn by a saint in a painting by Renaissance artist Giovanni Bellini-hence the name.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

1 × 750ml bottle of sparkling wine, such as Prosecco or Cava

For the fruit purée

1 mango, peeled, stone removed and flesh chopped

100g (3½0z) fresh or frozen and defrosted raspberries

3 tbsp lemon juice

4 tbsp caster sugar

6 champagne flutes

1 Place all the ingredients for the fruit purée in a food processor and whiz for 1–2 minutes, then push through a sieve.

2 Mix in a jug or fill glasses with one-third purée and two-thirds sparkling wine, stirring gently to combine. Serve chilled.

VARIATIONS

Mango Bellinis: Purée the flesh of 1 large mango with 3 tablespoons of lime juice and 3 tablespoons of caster sugar, then mix with the sparkling wine, as above.

Raspberry Bellinis: Purée 250g (9oz) fresh or frozen and defrosted raspberries with 5 tablespoons of caster sugar and 5 tablespoons of lemon juice, then mix with the sparkling wine.

Apple and blackberry bread and butter pudding

This is a really comforting, autumnal dessert, delicious with a dollop of whipped cream. It’s also a great excuse to get the family out picking blackberries. These can be substituted with raisins, however, if you prefer.

SERVES 6–8 VEGETARIAN

Butter, for spreading

12 slices of white bread, crusts removed

200g (7oz) cooking apples, such as Bramley

150g (5oz) blackberries

450ml (16fl oz) single or regular cream

225ml (8fl oz) milk

4 eggs

150g (5oz) caster sugar

1 tbsp granulated sugar

Pinch of ground cinnamon (optional)

20 × 25cm (8 × 10in) square, round or oval ovenproof dish

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Butter the bread, cut into smaller pieces and arrange 6 in the ovenproof dish, butter side down. Peel and core the cooking apples and cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks. Place the pieces and blackberries in a layer on top of the bread. Then arrange the remaining bread, again butter side down and overlapping if necessary, to cover the fruit.

3 Pour the cream and milk into a saucepan, bring to just under the boil and remove from the heat.

4 While the milk and cream are heating up, whisk together the eggs and caster sugar in a large bowl. Add the hot cream and milk and whisk to combine, then pour this custard over the bread and leave to soak for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the granulated sugar over the top and the cinnamon (if using).

5 Put the dish in a bain-marie (a roasting tin filled with just enough boiled water to come halfway up the side of the dish). Place in the oven and bake for about 1 hour until the top is golden and the centre set.

RACHEL’S TIP

This can be prepared in advance and left in the fridge overnight, uncooked. If making it this way, don’t heat up the milk and cream but add them cold to the whisked eggs and sugar.

MENU IDEAS FOR BRUNCHES AND LUNCHES

Citrus honeyed fruit

Skirt steak with spicy potatoes

Lazy weekend Bloody Mary

*

Spinach soup with rosemary oil

Venison sausage with celeriac purée

Apple snow with shortbread biscuits

*

Clams marinara

Penne with asparagus and Parma ham

Almond meringue with apricot purée

*

Salade Niçoise

Oven-baked courgette tortilla

Polenta, orange and almond cake

CASUAL MEALS

Sometimes you just want to get together with your friends for no reason in particular. It might be a spontaneous thought, and next thing you know you’re on the phone to all your friends asking if they can come over. Poker night? Movie night? Just because it’s Friday? There are so many reasons just to get a big pot of something on the go. Here you’ll find great ideas for simple but delicious meals that you can serve at any time and to just about anyone — including many which kids love. You won’t find starters here because this is ‘tuck-in’ food. Instead you’ll find plenty of hearty and comforting mains and desserts!

MAIN COURSES

Chilli sin carne

This vegetarian chilli is so bursting with flavours that even the most ardent meat lover will be impressed. Make sure to serve it with all the traditional chilli accompaniments, rice, guacamole and tomato salsa, sour cream and tortilla chips.

SERVES 8–10 VEGETARIAN

4 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

8 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

4 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

4 sticks of celery, trimmed and finely chopped

Salt and ground black pepper

2 large red chillies, deseeded and finely diced

2 tsp coriander seeds, ground

2 tsp cumin seeds, ground

200g (7oz) soya mince or TVP (textured vegetable protein), covered in cold water and soaked for 45 minutes

2 × 400g tins of red kidney or pinto beans, drained and rinsed, or 125g (4½oz) dried beans, soaked and cooked (see right)

2 × 400g tins of chopped tomatoes

200ml (7fl oz) vegetable stock

150ml (5fl oz) red wine

3 tbsp chopped coriander, to serve

Large casserole dish or saucepan

1 Pour the olive oil into a large saucepan or casserole dish on a medium-low heat and add the onion, garlic, carrots and celery. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes or until the vegetables are softened and golden. Stir in the chillies and spices and cook for a further 5 minutes.

2 Add all the remaining ingredients and taste for seasoning. Increase the heat to medium and cook, uncovered, for about 30 minutes or until thickened. Scatter with the chopped coriander and serve.

RACHEL’S TIP

To cook dried beans and pulses, soak them overnight in plenty of cold water, enough to cover the beans by a few centimetres, then drain and cook in fresh water until soft. It is best not to add salt to the cooking water as this toughens the beans.

Cooking time varies according to the type of bean and also how old they are:

Chickpeas = 45–75 minutes

Haricot or cannellini beans = 40–60 minutes

Pinto or kidney beans = 45–60 minutes

Note: 1 × 400g tin = 250g (9oz) drained, cooked beans or 125g (4½oz) dried beans.

Sweet potato and chickpea tagine

I absolutely adore this vegetarian tagine recipe; it has a spicy, sweet complexity that might be bullied out of the way were any meat added. Chickpeas are better friends with the canning process than any other pulse, though they are also delicious cooked from dry (see tip opposite).

SERVES 4–6 VEGETARIAN

2 sweet potatoes (about 650g/1lb 7oz)

5 tbsp olive oil

Salt and ground black pepper

1 red pepper

1 yellow pepper

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large (300g/11oz) onion, peeled and thinly sliced

3 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

3 tsp peeled and finely chopped root ginger

2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground

2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and ground

2 tsp paprika

1 × 400g tin of chickpeas, drained, or 125g (4½oz) dried chickpeas, soaked and cooked (see tip opposite)

100ml (3½fl oz) vegetable stock

1 tbsp honey

3 tbsp chopped coriander

75g (3oz) blanched almonds, toasted and roughly chopped

1 Preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8.

2 Peel and cut the sweet potatoes into 2cm (¾in) cubes. Put them in a bowl, mix with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread the potato pieces out in a large roasting tin, place the whole peppers at one end, on the same tin, and roast in the oven for about 20 minutes or until the sweet potato is tender. When cooked, transfer the sweet potatoes to a bowl and set aside.

3 The peppers will need an additional 10–20 minutes to roast, depending on their size. They are ready when the skin has slightly blackened and the flesh feels soft underneath. When cooked, remove and place in a bowl covered with cling film — this makes the skins easier to remove. When the peppers are cool enough, peel off the skin. Cut the peppers in half and remove all the seeds, then chop the flesh into roughly 2cm (¾in) pieces.

4 While the sweet potatoes and peppers are cooking, pour the remaining olive oil into a casserole dish or large saucepan and place on a medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, ground cumin and coriander and the paprika, and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 10–12 minutes or until the onions are soft and beginning to brown.

5 Add the drained chickpeas with the vegetable stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Next add the cooked sweet potatoes, roasted peppers, honey and half the chopped coriander, stir gently to combine and taste for seasoning.

6 Transfer to a warmed serving bowl, scatter over the remaining coriander and toasted almonds and serve with couscous.

Roasted vegetable coconut curry

The creamy coconut milk and myriad spices grant these vegetables both elegance and luxury. Roasting the vegetables in the paste really brings out their sweetness. Making your own curry paste only takes a few minutes and the complex depth of flavour means it’s always worth doing.

SERVES 8–10 VEGETARIAN

2 × 400ml tins of coconut milk

600ml (1 pint) vegetable stock

4 large carrots

6 parsnips

700g (1½ lb) sweet potatoes

4 onions

150g (5oz) spinach (any large stalks removed before weighing)

400ml (14fl oz) natural yoghurt

For the paste

1 tbsp coriander seeds

2 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp chana masala

50g (2oz) root ginger, peeled and chopped

12 cloves of garlic, peeled

4 red chillies, deseeded

200g (7oz) onions, peeled and quartered

50ml (2fl oz) vegetable oil

1 tbsp ground turmeric

2 tsp caster sugar

2 tsp salt

To serve

Bunch of coriander, chopped

100g (3½oz) cashew nuts, toasted and chopped

200ml (7fl oz) natural yoghurt or crème fraîche

Large casserole dish or saucepan

1 Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas mark 3.

2 First make the paste. Place a small frying pan on a medium heat and add the coriander, cumin and chana masala. Cook, tossing frequently, for about 1 minute or until they start to pop, then crush.

3 Place the ginger, garlic, chillies, onions and vegetable oil in a food processor and whiz for 2–3 minutes or until smooth. Pour into a large saucepan or casserole dish and stir in the ground spices, along with the turmeric, sugar and salt. Place on a medium–low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes or until the mixture has reduced slightly.

4 Remove the mixture from the heat and pour half into a large bowl. Pour the coconut milk and stock into the remaining half in the saucepan or casserole dish, stirring to combine. Leave to simmer for 15 minutes to reduce.

5 Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables. Peel the carrots, parsnips and sweet potatoes and cut into 2cm (¾in) cubes. Peel the onions and cut into eighths and chop the spinach.

6 Stir the yoghurt into the spice paste in the bowl, then add the vegetables and onions and stir to coat. Tip into 1–2 roasting tins and cook in the oven for about 1 hour or until lightly browned.

7 Remove the vegetables from the oven and add to the saucepan or casserole dish. Place on a medium heat for a few minutes to warm through, then stir in the spinach and spoon into bowls with a sprinkling of fresh coriander, a scattering of the toasted nuts and a spoonful of yoghurt or crème fraîche.

Bean burritos with refried beans, guacamole and tomato salsa

These burritos are great for a casual crowd. Children will especially love creating their own at the table, choosing from a variety of fillings for the tortillas. I love to see everyone passing around various bowls and plates. This is what communal food is all about.

SERVES 8 VEGETARIAN

1 quantity of guacamole (see opposite)

1 quantity of tomato salsa (see opposite)

1 × 200g jar of jalapeño peppers (optional)

250g (9oz) Cheddar or Gruyère cheese, grated

250g (9oz) crème fraîche

16 tortillas

1 quantity of refried beans (see opposite)

1 Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2.

2 Place the guacamole, salsa, peppers (if using), grated cheese and crème fraîche in separate serving bowls on the table.

3 Put the tortillas in a roasting tin, cover with foil or an upturned bowl and place in the oven for 5–10 minutes or until warmed through, then divide between plates. Reheat the beans, pour into a serving dish and place on the table with the other bowls. People can help themselves and assemble their own burritos by spooning each of the fillings in a line on their tortilla, then rolling up and eating!

Refried beans

SERVES 8 AS A SIDE DISH VEGETARIAN

25g (1oz) butter

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

½–1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

2 × 400g tins of pinto or kidney beans, drained and rinsed, or 250g (9oz) of dried beans, soaked and cooked

100ml (3½ fl oz) beef or chicken stock

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

Salt and ground black pepper

1 Melt the butter in a large frying pan ona medium heat, add the onion, garlic and chilli and cook for about 8–10 minutes or until softened and a little golden around the edges.

2 Add the beans, stock, cumin and coriander and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally and mashing the beans every so often using a potato masher, for a further 7–8 minutes or until the sauce has reduced slightly, then remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Guacamole

SERVES 8 AS A SIDE DISH VEGETARIAN

2 ripe avocados, peeled and stones removed

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or finely grated

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp chopped coriander

Salt and ground black pepper

Juice of ½ lime or lemon

1 Place the avocado flesh in a large bowl, add the garlic, olive oil and coriander and mash together, seasoning to taste with salt, pepper and lime juice.

2 Cover the bowl with cling film to stop the mixture going brown and set aside until it is needed.

Tomato salsa

SERVES 8 AS A SIDE DISH VEGETARIAN

4 ripe tomatoes, cut into 1cm (½in) cubes

1 tbsp chopped red onion

1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed or finely grated

½–1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

2 tbsp chopped coriander

Juice of ½ lime

Salt and ground black pepper

Pinch of sugar

1 Mix all the ingredients together, seasoning with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar.

Fish tacos with pepper and spring onion salsa

The first bite into a fish taco immediately transports me to the white sands of Puerto Escondido in Mexico. The flavours here are all so evocative: crunchy taco shells enveloping a crisp, refreshing salsa, a smooth and creamy guacamole and delicate flakes of fish. I can practically smell the sea!

SERVES 8

750g (1lb 10oz) filleted round white fish, such as haddock, whiting, hake or cod, in small fillets or one big piece

2 tbsp olive oil

Salt and ground black pepper

To serve

16 taco shells

1 quantity of guacamole

1 quantity of pepper and spring onion salsa (see below)

250g (9oz) crème fraîche

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Put the fish in a roasting tin, drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in the oven and cook for 10–20 minutes, depending on the size of the fish piece or pieces, until the flesh is opaque all the way through.

3 A few minutes before the fish are cooked, place the tacos in the oven to warm through, then bring to the table with bowls of the guacamole, salsa and crème fraîche. Cut or break up the fish into bite-sized chunks and place in a warmed serving bowl on the table. People can help themselves: just spoon a little from each bowl to fill the tacos, and eat!

Pepper and spring onion salsa

SERVES 8 AS A SIDE DISH VEGETARIAN

2 yellow peppers (or 1 red and 1 yellow), very finely sliced

8 spring onions, trimmed and sliced

8 radishes or ⅓ cucumber, left unpeeled and cut into thin strips

½–1 red chilli, deseeded and finely diced

Juice of 2 limes

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 ripe tomatoes, finely diced

2 tbsp chopped coriander

Salt and ground black pepper

1 Mix all the ingredients together in another bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Fusilli with beans, smoked salmon and olives

This dish is perfect for any form of casual entertaining. If made in advance, it can be chilled and brought back up to room temperature.

SERVES 8–10

300g (11oz) smoked salmon

500g (1lb 2oz) dried fusilli

4 tbsp olive oil

Конец ознакомительного фрагмента.

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