To seek the haunts of this new species of bear, I have said that our hunters would have a long journey to make – even so far as the Great Slave Lake – for although the Barren Grounds extend many degrees to the south of this water, the ursus Richardsonii; rarely wanders to a lower latitude. Upon the shores of the Slave Lake, however, they would be certain to encounter him; and thither they repaired.
They were fortunate in the time of the year. The annual “brigade” of boats belonging to the Great Fur Company was just setting out from York Factory, for Norway House on Lake Winnipeg; and thence a division of it would proceed to the posts still further northward – on Lake Athapescow and the waters of the Mackenzie River – passing through the Slave Lake itself. Their object, of course, in their annual journey is to distribute at the fur stations, the goods, brought from England by the Company’s ships, and in return bring back the peltries collected throughout the winter.
With the brigade, then, went our hunters; and after enduring, in common with the others, the hardships and perils incidental to such a long inland voyage, they at length found themselves at the point of their destination – Fort Resolution, on the Great Slave Lake, near the mouth of the river bearing the same appellation. The canoe of an Indian fisherman – of which there are many dwelling around the shores of this great inland sea – was soon pressed into service; and with the fisherman (who of course was a hunter also) for their guide and companion, they could make convenient excursions along the shores of the lake, land whenever they pleased, and search for Bruin in the localities where he was most likely to be encountered. In this they were assisted by their hired guide; who was not long in putting them upon the trail of a bear. In fact, in the very first excursion which they made, one of the true breed was discovered and captured.
The circumstances attending his capture were of no very particular interest; but as they illustrate one of the habits of this species, we shall give them as recorded in the journal of Alexis.
They were paddling gently along the shore – through water that was as calm as a pond – when, at a great distance ahead of them, the Indian observed a slight rippling upon the surface, and pointed it out. It was not caused by the wind; for there was not a breath stirring at the time; and it was not like the whitish curl which a breeze casts upon the surface of water. It resembled more a series of little wavelets, such as proceed from a stone plunged into a deep pool, or from a disturbance of the water caused by the movements of some animal. The Indian said that it was a bear: though there was no bear, nor any living thing in sight!
As the canoe moved nearer, our hunters perceived that there was an indentation on the shore – a little creek or bay out of which the ripples were proceeding. The guide knew that there was such a bay; and believed that the bear would be found somewhere within it, swimming about in the water.
The hunters did not stay to inquire the reason why Bruin should be thus bathing himself? There was no time: for just at that instant the Indian beached his canoe; and desired them all to disembark and follow such further instructions as he might give them. Without hesitation they accepted his invitation; resolved to act according to his counsel.
The Indian, after making his boat fast, took the route inland, followed by the other three. After going some three or four hundred yards, he turned to the left, and conducted the party around the shore of the bay – which trended in a semicircular or horse-shoe shape. He did not take all of them around; but only one, whom he stationed on the opposite side. This was Pouchskin. Ivan he had already placed on the nearer side, and Alexis at the bottom – so that they were thus set at the three angles of a triangle, nearly equilateral.
On assigning to each of them his station, the Indian further instructed them to creep forward among the bushes – which still separated them from the water – and to do so without making any noise, till they should hear a “whoop” from himself. This would be the signal for them to show themselves around the edge of the bay – in the water of which the Indian hunter was confident a bear was bathing himself. He himself returned to his canoe.
Agreeably to his instructions, the three hunters crawled forward – each on his own line of approach, and all observing the greatest caution and silence. As soon as their eyes rested upon the water, they perceived the correctness of the Indian’s conjecture. A bear there was, sure enough!
They saw only his head; but this was sufficient for Bruin’s identification: since no similar cranium could have been encountered in such a place.
As the Indian had apprised them, the bear was swimming about in the bay; but for what purpose it was at first difficult to make out. To their astonishment, he swam with his mouth wide open – so that they could see the interior of his great encarmined palate, while his long tongue flapped out at intervals, and appeared to sweep the surface of the water. At intervals, too, he was seen to close his mouth – the huge jaws coming together with a “clap-clap,” the noise of which could be heard echoing far over the lake!
He did not go long in one course; but ever and anon kept turning himself, and quartering the bay in every direction.
It was a long time before the spectators could find any explanation of these odd manoeuvres on the part of the bear. They might have fancied he was merely taking a cool bath to refresh himself: for the day was exceedingly hot, and the air was filled with mosquitoes – as our hunters had already learnt to their great discomfort. It might have been to get rid of these tormentors that Bruin had submerged his body in the water; and so Pouchskin concluded, and also Ivan – though both were puzzled by the odd behaviour of the bear, in swimming open-mouthed, and at intervals snapping his jaws as he did. Alexis, however, was a better reasoner; and soon discovered the why and the wherefore of these mysterious demonstrations. Alexis saw that the surface of the water was thickly coated with something; and, on scrutinising it more closely, he made out this something to be a swarm of insects. There appeared to be more than one species of them – two indeed there were – both about the size of ordinary gadflies; but altogether different from each other in colour and habits. One was a sort of water-beetle that swam near the surface; while the other was a winged insect that occasionally rose into the air, but more generally crawled along the water – making short runs from place to place, then stopping a moment, and then darting on again. The whole surface of the bay – and even out for some distance into the lake – fairly swarmed with these creatures; and it was in pursuit of them that Bruin was whisking his tongue so rapidly about, and bringing his jaws together in such sonorous concussion. The animal was simply indulging in a favourite meal – which in summer is furnished him not only on the shores of the Great Slave Lake, but most of the smaller lakes throughout the Barren Grounds.
Alexis had scarce finished making the observation, when a loud “whoop” was heard from the direction of the lake; and almost at the same instant the canoe of the Indian was seen shooting through the water, right for the entrance of the bay!
Obedient to the signal, the three hunters rushed out from their cover, and ran forward upon the beech – each holding his gun in readiness to fire. The bear, seeing himself thus suddenly and unexpectedly surrounded, at once gave over his fly-trapping; but, irresolute in which direction to retreat, he turned round and round in the water, first swimming a bit one way and then another. At length, rearing himself high above the surface, and showing his sharp teeth, he uttered a deep growl of rage, and dashed recklessly towards the shore.
It was to Ivan’s side he first directed himself; but Ivan was upon the watch; and, advancing close to the edge of the water, he took aim and fired.
His bullet struck the bear right upon the snout, and it appeared to have spun him round – so quickly was he seen heading in the opposite direction.
It was now Pouchskin’s turn; and in a second after the loud report of the grenadier’s gun went booming over the lake, while the ball splashed the water right into the eyes of the bear. Though it did not hit any part of his body, it had the effect of half-turning him – so that he now swam towards Alexis, stationed at the bottom of the bay.
Alexis took the matter more coolly. There was a convenient tree behind – to which he intended to retreat in case of missing – and this influenced him to hold his ground, till the bear should come near enough to ensure a certain aim.
The bear swam straight on, until within some ten yards of where Alexis was standing; when all at once he appeared to take the rue, and was turning off to one side. This was just what Alexis desired: it brought the head of the animal broadside towards him, and, taking steady aim, he planted his bullet a little under the left ear.
It was a dead shot. The huge creature, loaded with fat, sank instantly to the bottom; but fortunately the water was shallow; and the Indian now coming in with his canoe, soon fished up the carcass, and towed it out upon the beach – where its fur coat was stripped off in a trice.
The grizzly bear (ursus ferox), the fiercest and most formidable of the ursine family, was the next to be captured and skinned.
The range of the grizzly, though wider than that of the Barren Ground bear, is still not so extensive as that of the ursus americanus. The great chain or cordillera of the Rocky Mountains may be taken as the axis of his range – since he is found throughout its whole extent, from Mexico to its declension near the shores of the Arctic Sea. Some writers have asserted that he is confined to these mountains, but that is an error. To the west of them he is encountered throughout all the countries lying between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific coast – wherever circumstances are favourable to his existence; and to the east he extends his wanderings for a considerable distance into the great plains – though nowhere so far as to the wooded countries near the meridian of the Mississippi. In these the black bear is the only forest-ranger of the family.
Woods are not the favourite haunt of the grizzly bear; and although in youth he can make a sort of scramble up a tree, when full-grown his enormous claws – always blunted at the tips – hinder him from climbing. Low bushy thickets, with open glades intervening – and especially where the underwood consists of berry-bearing bushes – are his chosen retreats. He often sallies out into the open ground; and on those prairies where grows the pomme blanche, or “Indian turnip” (psoralea esculenta), he may be seen tearing up the earth with his claws, and leaving it turned into furrows – as if a drove of hogs had been “rooting” the ground. On the bottoms of the streams he also digs up the “kamas” root (camassia esculenta), the “yampah,” (anethum graveolens), the “kooyah” (Valeriana edulis), and the root of a species of thistle (circium virginianum). Many species of fruits and berries furnish him with an occasional meal; and the sweet pods of the mesquites (species of acacia), and the cones of the piñon tree (pinus edulis) form portions of his varied larder.
He does not, however, confine himself to a vegetable diet. Like most of his kind, he is also carnivorous, and will dine off the carcass of a horse or buffalo. The latter animal, notwithstanding its enormous bulk and strength, frequently falls a prey to the grizzly bear. The long masses of hair that hang over the eyes of the buffalo, hinder it from perceiving the presence of an enemy; and, unless warned by the scent, it is easily approached. The bear, knowing this, steals up against the wind; and, when within safe distance, springs upon the hind quarters of the ruminant, and cramping it in his great claws, succeeds in dragging it to the ground. He is even able to transport the huge carcass to a considerable distance – for the purpose of concealing it in some thicket, and devouring it at his leisure.
The grizzly bear is more like to the brown bear of Europe than to any other species of the genus. His fur is long and shaggy – not presenting the even surface which characterises the coat of the black bear. It is generally of a dark-brown colour – the hair being whitish at the tips, more especially during the summer season, when it becomes lighter-coloured. The head is always of a grizzled grey; and it is this appearance that has obtained for the animal its specific name. There are brown, reddish-brown, bay or cinnamon – coloured, and white-breasted varieties of the black bear; but the Indians can distinguish all these from the true grizzly at a glance. In all of the latter, where there are white hairs intermingled with the fur, it is always observable that these odd hairs are white to the roots; whereas the hoary appearance of the grizzly is caused by only the tips of the hair being white. This characteristic is constant; and would of itself justify a distinction being made between the species; but there are many other points of greater importance. The ears of the grizzly are shorter, more conical, and set wider apart than in either the ursus americanus or arctos. His claws are white, arched, far longer, and broader than those of the other bears – their greatest breadth being across their upper surface. Underneath they are chamfered away to a sharp edge; and projecting far beyond the hair of the foot, they cut like chisels when the animal strikes a blow with them. His huge paw is both broader and longer than that of other bears; while his tail, on the other hand, is short and inconspicuous – being completely buried under the fur of his buttocks. So characteristic is this appendage for its extreme shortness, that it is a standing joke among the Indians – when they have killed a grizzly bear – to desire any one unacquainted with the animal, to take hold of its tail!
This appendage in the ursus americanus and ursus arctos is conspicuous enough; and in the Barren Ground bear is still longer than in either.
There could be no possibility of mistaking an old or full-grown grizzly for any of the kindred species. Both in size and aspect he is different. It is only in the case of young or half-grown specimens where a mistake of this kind is likely to be made. The enormous size of the old males – often weighing 1,000 pounds, and quite equalling the largest individuals of the ursus maritimus– renders them easy of identification; though it is certain that under favourable circumstances the ursus arctos often attains to a similar bulk.
In ferocity of disposition, however, in carnivorous inclination, and in strength and power to carry out his mischievous propensities, no bear, not even the ursus maritimus, appears to be a match for this monster of the Rocky Mountains. The hunter never thinks of attacking him, unless when assisted by a number of his comrades; and even then it may be a fatal encounter for one or more of them. Were it not for the advantage obtained by their being mounted on horseback, the grizzly would always have a wide berth given him: but fortunately this fierce quadruped is unable to overtake the mounted hunter – although he can easily come up with a man on foot.
As to fearing or running away from a human antagonist, the younger grizzlies may sometimes do so; but when an old male has been attacked the case is quite different. A full-grown individual will stand his ground against a crowd of assailants – charging from one to the other, and showing fight so long as there is breath in his body.
The number of Indian and white hunters, who have either been killed or badly mutilated by grizzly bears, is almost incredible. Were it not that these men are usually mounted on good horses the list would have been still greater; and his intended victims often find another means of escaping from his claws – by taking to a tree.
Fortunate it is that nature has not bestowed upon the grizzly the power of tree-climbing; else many a pursued hunter, who has succeeded in gaining the branches of a friendly cottonwood, might have found his refuge anything but a secure one.
In fact, climbing into a tree – when one can be reached – is the common resource of all persons pursued by the grizzly bear; and by this means did our hunters themselves escape from a brace of infuriated grizzlies, while engaged in hunting these formidable animals.
Having settled their accounts with Bruin of the Barren Grounds, our travellers proceeded down the Mackenzie river to the Hudson’s Bay post of Fort Simpson. Thence they ascended a large tributary of the Mackenzie, known as the “River of the Mountains,” – or as the Canadian voyagers call it, Rivière aux Liards. This large stream has its sources far beyond the highest peaks of the Rocky Mountains: thus exhibiting the curious phenomenon of a river, breaking through a chain of mountains in a transverse direction; though the same occurs in several other parts of the Rocky Mountain range, and also in the Andes of South America. On the Rivière aux Liards the Hudson’s Bay Company have several posts – as Forts Simpson, Liard, and Halkett – the last-mentioned being far up among the mountains. Westward again, upon the Pacific side, they have other trading stations – the most important of which is that of Pellyss Banks, situated at the junction of Lewis and Pelly rivers. These rivers, after joining, run into the Pacific, not far from Mount Saint Elios – long noted as a landmark to the navigators of the North Pacific ocean.
From Fort Halkett, a route has been established to the post at Pelly’s Banks by means of Dease’s river – which is one of the effluents of the Rivière aux Liards– and partly by canoe navigation and partly by “portage;” the continent can be crossed in this northern latitude. From Pelly’s Banks to the Pacific coast the route is still easier – for not only do the Russians visit these parts, but there are native Indian traders who go twice every year from Pelly’s Banks to Sitka – the entrepôt of the Russian Fur Company – and the Lynn channel, a little to the north of Sitka, is also visited by the steamers of the Hudson’s Bay Company itself.
Our travellers would therefore have no difficulty in reaching Sitka; and thence crossing to the peninsula of Kamschatka, on the Asiatic coast. On their way over the Rocky Mountains, they would be certain to fall in with the grizzly; and in the countries lying along the Pacific, they could obtain that variety of the ursus americanus, known as the “cinnamon bear” – for it is to the west of the Rocky Mountains – in California, Oregon, British Columbia, and Russian America – that this spice-coloured species is most frequently met with.
A party of fur-traders and trappers were just starting from Fort Simpson to carry supplies up to the posts of Liard and Halkett; and along with them our travellers went.
On reaching the last-named station, they came to a halt, for the purpose of hunting the grizzly.
They were not long in starting their game – for this fierce monster of the mountains is far from being a scarce animal. In fact, in those districts which they choose for their “beat,” the grizzly bears are more numerous than most other quadrupeds; and not unfrequently half a dozen or more of them may be seen together. It is not that they are gregarious; but simply, that, being in considerable numbers in a particular neighbourhood, accident thus brings them together. To see troops of four associating together is very common; but these are merely the members of one family – male, female, and yearling cubs – for two is the number of the progeny – the grizzly bear in this respect resembling his congener of the ursus maritimus, and differing as essentially from the black and brown bears – with whom three is the usual number of cubs at a birth.
There are good reasons why the grizzly bears are not in much danger of being exterminated. In the first place, their flesh is of inferior quality. Even the Indians will not eat it; while they relish that of the black species. Secondly, their robe is of scarce any value, and fetches but a trifling price in the fur-market. Thirdly – and perhaps the most powerful reason of all – is that the hunter cares not to risk his life in an encounter with these animals, knowing that there is no adequate reward for such risk. For this reason “Old Ephraim” – as the trappers jocosely style the grizzly – is usually permitted to go his way without molestation, and, therefore, instead of being thinned off by an exterminating chase – such as is pursued against the buffalo, or even the black bear, whose robe is marketable – the grizzly maintains his numerical strength in most places where he is found.
At Fort Halkett – in consequence of a scarcity of hands, and the great pressure of business, in forwarding the brigade onward to the Pelly Station – our young hunters were unable to obtain a guide; and therefore started out for the chase alone – Pouchskin, of course, being one of the party.
The trading post of Fort Halkett being situated in the midst of the wildest region – without any cultivated ground or other settlement around it – they would not have far to go before finding a grizzly. Indeed, they were as likely to meet with one within sight of the Port as anywhere else; and from the moment of passing through the gate of the stockade they were on the lookout.
They had not the good fortune, however, to meet with one so very easily, for although they came upon the traces of bears, and saw numerous signs of them, they could not set eyes upon them; and returned from their first excursion rather disheartened with their day’s work.
In one thing, however, they had their reward. They had succeeded in shooting one of the rarest animals of America, a creature only met with in the more northern districts of the Rocky Mountains – that is, the “Rocky Mountain goat” (capra americana). This rare quadruped – whose long, snow-white, silky hair renders it one of the most attractive of animals – is a true wild goat; and the only species of the genus indigenous to America. It is about the size of the common domestic breeds, and horned as they; but the shining hair over its flanks and body is frequently so long as to hang down almost to its hoofs – giving the animal the appearance of having a much heavier body and much shorter legs than it really has. Like the ibex of Europe, it is only met with on the loftiest summits of the mountains, upon peaks and cliffs inaccessible to almost every other quadruped – the mountain sheep alone excepted. It is much shyer than the latter, and far more difficult of approach – the consequence being, that its beautiful skin, though highly prized, and commanding a good price, is but rarely obtained, even by the most expert hunters.
Having succeeded in bringing down one of these precious animals, our young hunters were satisfied with their day’s work – almost as well as if it had been a grizzly they had killed.
On their second day’s excursion, however, this feat was also accomplished – as we shall now proceed to relate.